• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.1-14
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• 2010

This study is a discussion of the expressive characteristics of contemporary fashion design with floral images. It aims to help understand the overall trends of contemporary fashion design and textile motif design and expand the potential expression fields of originative design to natural objects such as flowers. Methodologically the study analyzed 976 pieces of data gathered from Haute Couture and Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-Porter collections of 2005S/S-2009F/W, according to their types of expression. The study results show a share of 42.7% for plane type expressions by printing or weaving and a share of 51.5% for relief type expressions, compared with 5.7% for solid type expressions. However, those expressions represented elegant femininity with emphasis on formative beauty and were applied to fashion accessories or hair adornments. The expressive characteristics found from the analysis were represented by natural images, feminine elegance, and decorative aesthetics of handicrafts. Flowers in the contemporary fashion purify the internal emotions of humankind stand for personality and beauty in many different ways of expression and serve as a means of expressing more artistic values breaking out of stereotype.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.57-73
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• 2012

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of pleats design through the analysis of modern female fashion as they appear in the 'Collections' from '09 A/W to '12 S/S. Data collection of 1027 was done through the review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three cities; Milan, New York, Paris. Along with the qualitative interpretation of pleats design, statistical analysis of frequency and ${\chi}^2$-test were completed for data analysis. The main findings were as follows; 1. The five types of pleats design were founded in the order of accordion, knife, box, inverted, and sunburst pleats. The frequency and ratio of pleats design occurency showed significant difference between collections. 2. There were significant difference between the types of pleats and their line characteristics of thickness, continuity, length, direction. = Thin fabrics with delicate fine folds were mainly appeared in accordion and sunburst pleats. On the other hand, midium thickness fabrics were used for knife, box & inverted pleats, however, the different images were projected according to the width and the number of folds, characteristics of fabrics and textures. = In all the type of pleats but sunburst, continuity line was appeared the most. The discontinuous lines were appeared the most in the layered types and, sometimes, at some construction lines to add some decorative details or design variations. = The long line were the most frequently appeared in long one-pieces or long skirts of knife, accordion, sunburst pleats. While, the shorter lines showed the most frequently in box and inverted pleats, which mainly used for skirts or the lower part of one-piece. = For the line directions, the vertical lines were the most frequently appeared, and followed by mixed and diagonal line. In mixed or diagonal lines, same type of pleat was repeated in one design. For diagonal lines, one direction was mainly used, however, the symmetrical arrangements or repeated diagonal pleats in various directions also used. In mixed lines, the type of one or two diagonal and one vertical line was the most frequently appeared.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.316-325
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• 2006

The colors of apparel are getting more important to give the differentiated character on fiber and fabrics. This study was to extract the favorable colors that become to facial color types. Research was carried out to classify the facial colors into several similar facial color groups. With JX-777, 2 points of face: forehead and cheek, were measured and classified into 3 facial color types. Sample size was 418 Korean adult males and other 15 of new males subjects. New chosen 3 subjects who had the classified facial color types, wore silver gown and black hat on his head to minimize the interaction of the clothe color an hair. The 40 standardized color samples were used to extract the favorable colors. 187 respondents answered the degree of becomingness of color samples on 3 facial color types. Data were analyzed by K-means cluster analysis, ANOVA and Duncan multiple range test using SPSS Win. 12. Findings were as follows: 1. 418 subjects who had YR colors were classified into 3 kinds of facial color groups. Type 1 was 4.59YR 5.89/5.12, Type 2 was 5.61 YR 5.41/4.79 and Type 3 was 4.38YR 6.49/4.89 respectively. 2. Favorable colors for Type 1 were 2 colors that belonged to ' a ' group from among colors that were divided into a, b, c group and 18 colors that belonged to ' a ' group from among colors that were divided into a, b group by Duncan post hoc test. 3. Type 2 showed that this type had many unfavorable colors. Unfavorable colors were 16 colors that belonged to ' c ' by Duncan test. 5. Favorable colors for Type 3 were 14 colors that belonged to ' a ' from among colors that were divided into a, b, c and 16 colors that belonged to ' a ' from among colors that were divided into a, b by Duncan test.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.143-155
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• 2014

This study focuses on Yusam, a military raincoat that was worn during the Joseon Dynasty. The purpose of this study is to review the types and management system of Yusam. Documentary records, paintings and relics were used as research materials. Yusam was recorded as either Yusam(油衫) or Yu-ui(油衣) in writing. It usually looked like a skirt and was worn like a cape, but there were differences in length. Some of them took the form of a short coat with half-sleeves and side slits. Research analysis results of Silrok, Ilseongrok and the archives of the military camp in the later Joseon are as follows: First, Mokyusam and Jiyusam coexisted as military raincoats. Mokyusam was made with cotton and perilla oil, while Jiyusam was made with traditional Korean paper, a cotton edging and perilla oil. Second, the differences between general Yusam and military Yusam include the material of the clothing, the materials for waterproofing, the color, and the manufacturer. Third, each military camp supplied soldiers with hundreds to thousands of Yusam. Military officers and King's guards wore Mokyusam because Mokyusam was higher than Jiyusam. Fourth, soldiers Yusam together with Yujeongeon, Chorip, Galmo, or Hwihang as a hat. Fifth, the higher the rank, the higher the price of Yusam and the longer the term of usage. On the other hand, as the rank got higher, the cost of the supplementary oil rose, while the duration of usage got shorter.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.175-187
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to recognize the real situation of clothing construction to present the desirable direction to establish more scientific and reasonable themes of the study by analysis of the tendency of the clothing construction study. For this purpose, 402 papers on the theme of clothing construction study were excepted from the first issues to the issues of December in 1999 of Journal of Korea Society of Clothing and Textile, Journal of Korea Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Fiber Society, and Journal of the Human Engineering Society of Korea. I analyzed and classified the theme into eight issues of design related clothing construction, study of body types, study of patterns, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, sewing, and the clothes. The result of the study is follows. 1. The distribution tendency of the clothing construction study by the journal of each society showed that journal of Korean Home Economic is 22.9%, Journal of Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles 17.3%, Research Journal of the Costume Culture 12.2%, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 6.2%. 2. The distribution tendency of the studying issues showed hat study of body types of 29.4%, study of patterns21.9%, fitting of clothing 11.7%, sewing 10.2%, size of apparel 8.5%, and others 7%, protective clothing and functional clothing 6.7%, and design related clothing construction 4.7%. Considering the above result. we can understand that study of body types and patterns are being studied most actively. 3. Regarding the study tendency by academic issues showed that study of construction elements and design application is chiefly centered of the study of design related clothing construction (35.5%), analysis of body types is centered of the study of body, type(46/6%), CAD is centered of the study of patterns (31.1%), and size spec for the ready made patterns is centered of the study of size of apparel(32.4%). As for fitting of clothing, the study was performed in two ways on the changes of he surfaces of human bodies in motion and the functional features of experimental dressing. Regarding the study of sewing study of fusible interlining was mainly performed (36.6%) and regarding the study of protective clothing and functional clothing, study of brassieres and underwear was chiefly performed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.91-109
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• 2013

The main objective of this research was to understand the latest trends of natural print design through the quantitative & qualitative analysis of fashion appeared in contemporary female collections. The research criteria was defined as 3 seasons from 2011 S/S to 2012 S/S. Data collection of 726 was done through review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three major fashion cities; Paris, Milan and NY. Statistical analysis of frequency with chi-square test was conducted. Also qualitative interpretation of natural print design' characteristics was completed. The main findings were as follows.; The average occurrence rate of natural print design from 2011SS to 2012 SS in three collections were 6.4% in Milan 6.4%, 5.5% in Paris and 6.8% in N.Y. The five source types of natural prints in contemporary women's fashion collections were identified and the order of their appearance were as follows: flowers, plants, animals, insects & marine organisms and compound one. The plant prints were expressed by stylized or realistic touch. Flower patterns showed more variables than plants, however, there were no big difference in their image and major characteristics. The animal prints demonstrated two aspects. First one used typical animal print of fur or skin, but the other one draw the animal figure like paintings. The compound source type presented the most interesting and fresh pattern design ideas. In the insects & marine organisms, mainly butterfly and seashell & starfish, etc. appeared as real shapes or sometimes were stylized.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.151-165
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• 2023

This study aims to develop a mechanic embroidery bag design that reflects the symbolic image of Korean independence activists who sacrificed for the country so that today's Korea can exist. As a research method, the theoretical consideration and image collection of independence activists were conducted through a literature review and visits to the memorial halls of six independence activists. The bag design was developed using mechanic embroidery textile of 12 motifs manufactured in previous studies through the computer mechanic embroidery sewing machine, and the types were limited to totes, Boston, clutches, baskets, shoppers, hover bags, and hat boxes. The results of this study are as follows. First, it was found that the dense light and shade and delicate color expression of each motif design were the most important and achieved through the proper selection and utilization of embroidery yarn according to the mechanic embroidery expression technique for developing in-depth textile materials. Second, unlike in the past, when machine embroidery was difficult to handle, the spread of embroidery CAD and computer machine embroidery sewing machines made it easier for individuals to develop embroidery products. Third, this study once again emphasized the symbolism of Korean independence activists who sacrificed for the nation to exist at a time when it needs to be recognized due to the lack of fashion and diversity in cultural products containing historical and cultural meaning and values of the country. This study was able to develop computer machine embroidery textiles and various bag designs using various mechanic embroidery expression techniques that can highlight the symbolic image of each motif.

• Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers A
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• v.38 no.9
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• pp.959-965
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• 2014

In the present study, we aimed to obtain design data that can be used for the side members of lightweight cars by experimentally examining the types of effects that the changes in the section shape and outermost layer of an aluminum (Al)/carbon fiber reinforced plastic (CFRP) composite structural member have on its collapse characteristics. We have drawn the following conclusions based on the test results: The circular Al/CFRP composite impact-absorbing member in which the outermost layer angle was laminated at $0^{\circ}$ was observed to be 52.9 and 49.93 higher than that of the square and hat-shaped members, respectively. In addition, the energy absorption characteristic of the circular Al/CFRP composite impact-absorbing member in which the outermost layer angle was laminated at $90^{\circ}$ was observed to be 50.49 and 49.2 higher than that of the square and hat-shaped members, respectively.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.73-90
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• 2014

Paper, once known and used only as a medium for printing or handicrafts, is now being used in new fields including artistic clothing, and an environment-friendly material for fashion, while the functionality of its formative characteristics and esthetics have been newly highlighted. On this basis, this study performed a content analysis of paper couture and categorization of types of paper modeling techniques based on 904 paper couture submitted to paper fashion shows, exhibitions and contest exhibits from 2001 to 2013. Analysis results showed that paper textile types were most common at 86.64%, while techniques using laminating, bonding, overlapping or paper as-is represented 62.17%. Expressive techniques in which paper was cut or torn and attached to paper clothing was 11.62%, paper folding was 5.75%, drawing and coloring 4.65%, and finally, paper cutting was 2.65%. Meanwhile, among paper modeling techniques using paper yarn textiles, a paper weaving technique was 6.75%. Moreover, other techniques in which paper modeling techniques or subsidiary clothing was blended were 3.65%, and Dak peeling textiles were 1.33%. Paper paste moulding textiles types represented 1.44%, above all papier $m{\hat{a}}ch{\acute{e}}$ techniques of 0.55% and creasing and holding techniques were 0.88%. Paper is sufficient to express the artists' creativity as well as having qualities as an artistic medium, such as variability through combined use with other materials, variation in form, suitability for reuse of waste paper, and environmental friendliness. Also, various paper modeling techniques can be blended with textiles for a generalized technology that overcomes the limits of paper and textiles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.1021-1030
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develop and make the head form by setting the region of the head for detailed measurement of the head to make the type of closely fit hat and typifying the head form of Korean women's with each region of the head based on the measurements of each region of the head according characteristics. A total of 285 Korean women's in the age group of 18 to 35 years old. It were measured through the direct measurement method by selecting 67 measurement items. As a result of the findings obtained from cluster analysis could be classified into 3 type. Type 1($46\%$) is U-shaped form, that is high in head height on sides and circumference is smallest, whose facial region and occiput is flattest of three types. Type 2($22.4\%$) is inverted triangle form, that is flat in head ridge, low in head height on sides and wide in the frontal width. Type 3($31.6\%$) is oval form, that is largest in size, has the projected occiput and is of three-dimensional form.