• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.7
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• pp.15-24
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• 2002

In this work, the effect of fusible interlining on the appearance related properties and mechanical characteristics of Lyocell fabric after fusing was investigated. Two different types(20's and 10's) of Lyocell face fabric with six different interlining(by thickness and structure) for earth Lyocell fabric were examined. In order to establish the optimum fusing condition for the different face fabric and interlining, peel strength of each fused fabric was measured, which was dependent on the fusing temperature, pressure, and time. The characteristics related appearance and mechanical characteristics of each fused fabric were determined. The results are as follows: The peel strength was excellent, when the fabric was fused with the force of 3kgf/$textrm{cm}^2$ at $120^{\circ}C$ for 15seconds. Flex stiffness, G, 2HG, 2HG5(shear), B, 2HB(bending) of 100% Lyocell fabric 10's were higher than those of 100% Lyocell 20's. Flex stiffness, crease recovery, G, 2HG, B, 2HB of thicker woven interlining were higher than those of thinner woven interlining. Crease recovery of twill interlining were higher than those of plain interlining. In case of shear and bending properties, however, plain interlining was higher than twill interlining. Flex stiffness, crease recovery, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB of nonwoven interlining were higher than those of woven interlining. In case of drapability, however, woven interlining was higher than nonwoven interlining.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to investigate electrical conductivity of fabrics from polyester (PET) and Nylon (N) containing polyurethane (PU), with silver paste patterns screen-stenciled in three directions. The PET/PU and N/PU fabrics knitted or woven were uniaxially strain-recovered up to 22.5% in three times when each change in electrical resistance was simultaneously measured. This study established four variables that complexly affected electrical conductivity of these specimens; fabric structures, components, cover factors, and the percolation of silver particles. The woven or knitted fabric structures did not distinctively cause the changes in electrical resistance, however, the woven fabrics with the diagonal patterns showed their relatively high electrical resistance. The PET/PU fabrics with increasing the PET proportion generally presented the opposite propensity to its electrical conductivity. The changes in electric resistance of the PET/PU 85/15 2/1 twill and double plain fabrics instantaneously responded to the rate of elongation. The PET/PU group exhibited a reverse correlation between its cover factor and electrical resistivity. The highest electrical conductivity of the PET/PU 95/5 interlock fabric, with very few fluctuations, was attributed to the deep percolation of the silver particles that bridged the gaps between one loop and another. On the other hand, the occurrence of the silver cracks along with the elongated direction led to the immeasurably high change in electrical resistance as the strain increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.9-16
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• 2008

Six of the Imdang tombs containing remains with imprints of ancient fabrics and textiles were investigated. Within the tombs, a total of 120 pieces of imprinted fabrics and textiles were investigated, all of which belongs to $5{\sim}6C$ Shilla period. All of the hemp textiles examined exhibited similar characteristics found in ancient hemp textiles: they were woven by plain weave technique with s-twist threads. The examined silk could be categorized into plain woven silk, cho, and double woven brocade, all of them made with non-twisted threads and degummed silk. The density of the plain woven silk ranged from 39 threads to 144 threads. Cho was also found, which showed similar characteristics to those of Gaya and Bakjae tombs. One piece of 2/1 twill weave on plain ground and 12 pieces of double woven brocade were found and their average density was $97.4{\times}33.4/cm$ with denser warp than weft. The various thickness of the threads were observed in the examined plain braid. The silk with twining technique showed thicker warp than weft. This is similar to the techniques of fabrics found in the King Muryeoung's Tomb of the Bakjae period. Fabrics with the purple-like color were observed in the some of the double woven brocades and also on the plain woven silk imprinted on the remains. The purple-like color was revealed to be purple with a tint of violet. The two tombs from which the imprinted fabrics with purple-like color were found belonged to top-class social level of the Shilla period, which informs that the purple color was used exclusively for the people of higher social status. The floss silk was found between the double woven brocade and plain woven silk of the belt, which is an important evidence that the floss silk was used for stuffing in the early 6th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.18
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• pp.35-50
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• 2017

As part of the NMK's research project on wooden Buddha statues, four items which contained fabric among their bokjang objects(腹藏物) were investigated. Firstly, when classified by the method of weaving, two items made of ra (羅, a four-end complex gauze) silk and five of neung(綾, twill damask) silk from the Goryeo era were identified, and the satin fabrics showing characteristics of the Joseon period were classified as either dan(緞, satin damask) or sa(紗, simple gauze). In particular, the fabric of the bokjang objects enshrined within the gilt-bronze Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva(Deoksu 801) feature both early and late Joseon characteristics, suggesting that two enshrinements were performed(once in the fifteenth century and another in the seventeenth). Secondly, the patterns on the fabrics included flowers, treasures, fruits, plants with animals, and landscapes with clouds. Thirdly, patches of fabric were found that are assumed to be related with all cardinal directions according to their arrangement, albeit in small quantities.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.67-72
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• 1987

This study was carried out for the optimum predegumming in the protease degumming process of silk fabrics by ocmparing the physical properties of silk fabrics degummed with different weight losses of predegumming. 1. In twill habutai, the stiffness of fabric was reduced and the smoothness was improved with increasing weight loss of predegmming, however, the soft feeling value which means the total handle value of medium fabric for lady, was maximum at 20% of predegumming weight loss. 2. In the case of crepe de chine representing thin fabric for lady, the anti-drape stiffness was relatively increased with 22% weight loss of predegumming. However, the other physical properties, such as the flexibility with soft feeling were less related to the degrees of predegumming.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.99-112
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• 2008

The aim of the study was to look into the construction methods of historical corsetry and compare them with the construction methods of corsetry today. Through a comparative study, it was concluded that the design, material, sewing and functions of corsetry of a certain period are sum of the clothing techniques and fashion of the time. Corset was first appeared at the end of the 16th century. It has been through many changes in terms of items, materials, patterns, sewing methods in order to make right silhouettes of the time. Now corsetry has been developed into various items such as waist nipper, all-in-one, nipper bra, and girdle. All these items have a common purpose, that is to improve the body shape. The corsetry of the past was made of non stretchable materials, so they used to restrict body movements, and required individual fitting several times. Due to the development of thin durable stretchable fabrics, functional bones, and advanced sewing machines, construction methods of seam, hem and opening are simplified compare to their predecessors. Consequently corsetry became less weighted, easy to wear, easy to wash and easy to mass produce. Yet they have consistency in sewing techniques such as using bones or wires to support bodice shape, using durable twill fabrics over plain for attractive body shapes.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.459-471
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• 1974

This study was carried out on the thermal transmission on account of variation of weaves and researched on the selection of the most suitable weaves for warmth. Also the interrelation among the density, thickness and thermal transmission by different weaves was studied, the author has woven three fundamental weaves, five weaves derived from the fundamental weaves and two special weaves for the purpose of experiment. In weaving of fabrics for experiments the lever type hand loom was used. Testing of texture was carried out according to KS and ASTM. The thermal transmission was also tested by as cooling method which were developed by the author. The conclusions of experiments were as follows. 1. Matt weaves, honey comb weaves and satin weaves having long floating yarns have large cover factor and were thicker. these structures of the weaves were good in warmth. 2. Thermal transmission was reciprocated to the cover factor, thickness and value of cover factor multiplied by thickness : It was found that the weaves of woven fabrics for warmth had better use of satin weaves, Matt weaves, Granite weaves and Honey comb weaves. In the time of warmth is not the first purpose, had better use of Rib weaves. Plain weaves and Twill weaves with thin thickness and high thermal transmission.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.179-186
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• 1995

The purpose of this paper was to identify bonding strength by weave (plain weave, twill weave, satin weave) and counts(20 s, 40s) of the face cloth cotton 100% in the course of sewing process using by cotton fabric of adhesive interlining. The results of the study was as follows. 1. With the increased laundry, it revealed that the bonding strength was decreased to some degree regardless of the kinds of face cloth. 2. the bonding strength by the counts of the face cloth appeared in order of 40 s<20 s. 4. It was observed that there are no significant differences on the adhesive strength in the cutting directions which are an inclination warp, weft, bias in this experiment.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.26-43
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• 1973

This study was carried out on the Sewbility of Urethane Foam usually used as coldproof lining. The Sewability was estimated with the Puckering Grade and Seam Efficiency according to the thicknes of urethane foam, fineness and material of sewing thread, and the sort of covering fabric. The result shows the following ; 1. The thick foam proportinally shows the low Puckering Grade. 2. Effect on the sewability is small in fineness of sewing thread but large in material. Especially silk thread shows the greatest sewability in foam sewing. When the material of covering fabric is same as that of sewing thread (for example ; p/c fabric and p/c thread) the sewability is excellent in special. 3. Taffeta in covering foam is not suitable to foam sewing, satin and twill show superior sewability without reagrd to the thickness of foam. 4. In case of sewing foam covered with tricot, optimum thickness of foam and fineness of sewing thread through pretest must determine. 5. The thicker foam is the better seam efficiency tends, and Seam Efficiency largely effects to the strength of the sewing thread itself. 6. The seam Efficiency can heighten with the strength of sewing thread in proportion to that of covering fabric.