• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.400-410
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• 2017

Bactria was the intersection of transportation between Greece-Iran and Central Asia at the Silk Road. This kingdom was Greek in all of its ruling classes. Because the Greek culture of Bactria spread to India and the east, Bactria was a very important place in ancient civilizations. The purpose of this study is to understand the life and the various cultures of Bactria and the influence of Greek culture on the costumes of Bactria. The research method was approached through the analysis of the empirical data. Data on antiquities were analyzed in European exhibition catalogs and secondary data collected from Internet. The results of this study are as follows: First, the original costume of Bactria was identified in two styles in the reliefs of the Persian Achaemenid. One is the tunic jacket sarapis that goes down to the knee and wide trousers with half-length boots. The other is the Scythian style trousers that looks like a barrel in a Sarapis. Second, in the Bactrian coin depicting the bust of the Bactrians, the hair styles and headgear of the Bactrian kings were analyzed. The Bactrians wore braids with short curly hair and wore Macedonian hats and helmets on them. Third, the relics excavated from the ruins of Ai-Khanuom depicted the forms of the ruling classes of Bactria. The dress styles and hair styles of gods and priests were imitating the form of the Greek costume as it is.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.44 no.10
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• pp.1538-1542
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• 2015

For development of premium sauce, fermented sauces containing ferment (with wheat flour and soybean) and extract(s) of Styela clava (Korean name: miduduk) tunic and/or mulberry leaves and/or onion were prepared, and their angiotensin converting enzyme (ACE) inhibitory and 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activities were evaluated. All sauces containing extract(s) showed increased ACE inhibitory and DPPH radical scavenging activities. Especially, sauces containing extracts of mulberry leaves and onion showed superior activities, with 26.92% and 40.66% relatively increased ACE inhibitory and DPPH radical scavenging activities, respectively, compared to control (no extract was added). These results suggest that extracts of mulberry leaves and onion could improve antihypertensive and antioxidant activities of fermented sauce.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.4 s.44
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• pp.357-369
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to clarify the relationship between the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress, and to analyze its historical perspectives. First of all, the concept of the Ideal Beauty of Body, the definition of Dress Form, and the method and system to clarify Dress Form were depicted. Based on this frame work, the Form of Dress related to the Ideal Beauty of Body was described historically. For this purpose, documentary research were conducted and representative photography and paintings were used. The analysis was limited to the female one-Piece dress from Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome, Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Naoclassicism, and to Romanticism. The results were as follows: 1. The Ideal Beauty of Body was found to be different throughout history and to be intimate- ly linked with fashionable dress. 2. The Form of Dress consisted of four basic components: The form of body itself, the form of clothing itself, the method of wearing, and the relationship between body and clothing. 3. The standards for classification of body form were body structure, body type, body proportion, posture, and movement. Clothing form was generally classified into flat type (unstructured type) and three dementional type (structured type); flat type was subclassified into draped type and tunic type. The method of wearing was classified into attached type, tying-up type, wrap·around type, pull-over type, open type and plastistic type. The relationship between body and clothing after wearing was generally classified into body priority type and clothing priority type. The clothing priority type was further divided into body exaggeration type and body concealment type; Body exaggeration type was further divided into upward type, downward type, forward type, backward type, right type and constriction type. 4. The pursuit of venus coelestis, metaphysical body part, ectomorphic body type, flat type clothing, body priority type; the pursuit of Venus Naturalis, physical body part, endomorphic body type, three dementional type clothing, clothing priority type proved to be closely related respectively by the historical study on the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.603-608
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• 1998

Lipid oxidation in ascidian was studied when fresh, deshelled and sliced meats were fermented for 50 days at 5$\pm$2$^{\circ}C$ with 8%(w/w) salt and 0.1% papain. Antioxidative effects of butylated hydroxytoluene(BHT) and carotenoid extracts from ascidian tunic on lipid oxidation and oxidationrelated discoloration of ascidian meat during fermentation were investigated. Changes in peroxide value, carbonyl value, thiobarbituric acid value, fatty acids composition, the loss of total carotenoid and sensory evaluation were determined to assess the rancidity. Peroxide and carbonyl values in BHT and carotenoid extract treatments increased less than those of the control during fermentation. TBA value increased until 30 days, hereafter tended to decrease a little in the control during fermentation. TBA value increased until 30 days, hereafter tended to decrease a little in the control but it increased slowly until 40 days in cases of 0.02% BHT or 0.02% BHT with 0.05% carotenoid added. Fatty acids of fresh ascidian composed of polyenoic acid, saturated acid and monoenoic acid of 51.5%, 28.1% and 20.7%, respectively. Saturated fatty acids(C16:0, C14:0, C18:0) and monoenoic acids(C18:1, C16:1) increased while polyenoic acids(C20:5, C22:6) decreased during fermentation. Carotenoid was markedly degraded and discolored in the control during fermentation. But 0.02% BHT and 0.05% carotenoid treatments had bright color like fresh meat during 40 days. The results of sensory evaluation during the fermentation also convinced the retard of discoloration by the addition of BHT and carotenoid.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.36 no.8
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• pp.1038-1042
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• 2007

Stycla claca (SC, miduduk in Korean) and Stycla plicata (SP, omangdungi in Korean) have been consumed as one of the most tasty seafoods in the southern coast of Korea. Liquors were prepared by soaking SC (whole, tunic, or flesh part) and SP (whole) in soju (alcohol content 30%) for 4 months, and then the characteristics were evaluated. Alcohol contents of the liquors decreased with increasing amounts of SC and SP. Antioxidant activities revealed by a radical scavenging activity showed that SC, especially flesh part, exhibited higher activity than SP in the liquors. Increasing the amount of SC and SP in liquors tended to decrease lightness and redness while increasing yellowness. In a sensory test, there was no significant difference between the liquors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.32-44
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• 2015

Increasing of Korean old women's rate is demographic characteristics attributed an aging society, silver generation would lead to silver fashion market with steady competitiveness and interest in fashion. So the study attempts to use foundation material for silver's fashion design by analyzing design characteristics and processing development of design representative women's top. Selecting brand for collecting photo using study represents a mid- and premium-priced with reference Brand Yearbook. After selecting brand on domestic and foreign I have collected picture from Internet shopping mall and web-site of fashion brand, from October 2013 to July 2014, but I selected 840 pictures based on front poses for easy decision. In order to search design characteristics according to sort of silver blouse design on domestic and foreign. I have examined shape, color, pattern, fabric sensation, inside composition line and decoration with reference standard of analysis in preceding research. Data analysis method was conducted on analysis of frequency and cross analysis using SPSS statistical package 21.0. The conclusion of design characteristic according to type of blouse design for silver, H-silhouette in shirt blouse seems to fit in body transformation and expose silhouette with correcting the body flaw. Using soft material in T-shirt blouse they are able to conceal a body defect and express beautiful silhouette. By using detail in pullover shirt blouse and tunic blouse for point of design, it express glamour and luxurious. Most of blouse are printed various pattern, it would looks more gorgeous using pattern.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.7
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• pp.121-131
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• 1995

Orientalism showed in early 20th century as change of Style. Modern characteristics is understanded through big stream of change before historical conception. Change of style in West began by artist having oriental and exotic taste. These are mimesis of outershape about Japanese, Moroco, north Africa etc. Theses are called chinoiserie & turquise taste. Stream of 20th century style is continued expressionism. Cubism, Sur realism, Pop Art etc. but in my thesis orientalism is caused change of 20th Century after exotism (after showed as Primitivism ). In modern costume, concerned works of Paul Poiret changed body concious. He's a image creator as Yve St. Laurent, Chanel, Balenciaga. At that time Russia Ballet, Fauvist, vivid colors are back ground of series of modern costume. Soft and sleek body, transparent stocking, minaret tunic, turban is begin of oriental image. Modern costume and modern art are begins as change of aesthetic taste before historical conception.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.392-402
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• 2012

The norm for everyday costume in India and Indonesia had consisted of either draped garments or loincloths. However, as the Islamic values spread in these countries various tailored clothes began to be worn. In order to study this spread of tailored clothes, the researcher first looked at the historical background which was the origin of Islamic costumes and its unique traits through the works of literature. Based on these findings, the researcher tried to identify the Islamic elements in the costumes of India and Indonesia. The researcher put forward the following conclusion: In India, people began to wear Islamic costumes after the establishment of Mughul Empire (1526~1857) in the 16th century, despite the Islamic invasion in the early 8th century. The pants that the ruling class of Islam wore such as shalwar, churidar and coats in the style of kaftan as well as turban spread quickly throughout the nation and now they are important part of Indian traditional costumes. Also in Indonesia, people began to wear tailored clothes as they accepted Islamic faith. The Indonesian costumes which exposed the upper body part may have been suitable for the climate but it was inappropriate according to the Islamic precepts. The religious beliefs led to the creation of the unique Indonesian sarong, wraps such as kain panjang and a new type of traditional costumes that combined the elements of pants or tunic from the Islamic culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.263-277
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• 2008

In picture bible, the picture is helpful for showing story more vividly and specifically and it is helpful for finding the meaning of bible hidden behind familiarity. It plays the role of the most powerful testimony and expression, with which human provides himself. The purpose of study was to grasp the relation among historical background of the middle age, human's characteristic and symbolic color by considering the fact that the costume expressed in Maciejowski Bible, which is a picture bible of the middle age and observing type, color and decoration of costume. Among 46 folios organizing Maciejowski Bible, 129 pictures explaining the Book of Genesis, the Book of Exodus, the Book of Leviticus, the Book of Numbers, the Book of Deuteronomy, the Book of Joshua and the Book of Judges, which belong to the former 400 years of the old Testament, were analyzed for people's costumes. The pictures shown in Maciejowski Bible portrays object, costume and behavior on the background of France of the 13th century so we can find out the precious natures of middle age's costume, weapon and armor. Especially, the portrait about finger armor of chain mail attached in hauberk becomes the outstanding evidence that can encroach the discussion over whether it was used in the end of 1300s. Regarding costumes of main characters, they wore chemise and braies as underwear, wore tunic or cotte having various lengths from the length reaching knee to the length reaching 8round as basic costume and wore mantle with different-colored lining and hose with various colors. In the war picture, we can see hauberk made with chain mail and cyclas with long slit, which was worn over hauberk, barrel helmet, norman helmet and steel school cap. Regarding cap. man usually wore coif, beret, shade-shaped cap, straw hat and woman wore the decoration using veil and hairlace and used the method to wrap whole hair with net. As the colors used in the costume of the picture bible, scarlet, blue, green and brown were usually used in order. They usually wore costumes decorated splendidly with the colors haying hish brightness and chroma.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.1-18
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to analyze the Muslim fashion that has recently appeared in the global fashion collection to see how the global fashion brand expresses Muslim's traditional costumes so as to provide references in design development to prepare for the larger Muslim fashion market in the future. In order to analyze Muslim fashion, keywords related to Muslims such as "Muslim," "Islamic fashion" and "hijab" were searched on Google, Samsung Design Net and Vogue websites, and a total of 370 fashion photos were selected for the final data, which was judged to reflect Muslim fashion styles after a review by four clothing experts. Muslim fashion styles have the following characteristics: Above all, the use of veils was most noticeable, with many T-shaped loose long tunic dresses. The hijab, which had the highest proportion of veils, was used to produce various images with wide range of materials and colors. Achromatic colors were the most common, but more than three colors were used to create an exotic image. There have also been cases of using direct religious images such as arabesque patterns and mosques and Muslim priests. As a final, Muslim fashion styles were studied follow: first, a unique style using a veil. Second, conservative style with minimal exposure, third, restrained long-and-lose fit style, fourth, exotic style by elaborate pattern. The domestic fashion industry is also expected to generate economic demand if it is designed with reference to such collection trends along with market research on Muslim consumers.