• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제11권2호
• /
• pp.147-165
• /
• 1973

One of the characteristics of feudal society is the control of the dress and ornamentation which stand for various social classes and personal relationships. Throughout the Yi-Dynasty, certain forms of dress and ornamentation were controlled or prohibited by the government. For instance, there was a Ban on the use of gold and silver for ornaments and silks or satins for dresses, and the violator was subject to severe punishment according to the penal laws. This seems to have been done more for symbolism and the dignity of the various social ranks and powers than as an economic measure against foreign products. The use of yellow cloth, for instance, was once banned out of blind submission to the traditional practices in China, then the most powerful nation in Asia. The working classes were prohibited to use any silks of foreign production. This was done to discourage a spirit of wasteful luxury and the tendency to prefer the often higher quality foreign product. The government regulated the class of the traditional wedding ceremony, again as a means of both encouraging economy and reestablishing the distinctions between the classes. In spite of these attempts at control by the government a large trade in smuggled goods was still carried out. This had the effect of impeding the development of the clothing industry in the country.

• 가정과삶의질연구
• /
• 제22권5호
• /
• pp.253-264
• /
• 2004

The objective of this study was to investigate the change of the level of the performance of family rituals and socialization of them, and to compare the change of the attitudes between daughter and mother generation. Research data were collected in 1992 and 2002 from families living in Seoul. Housewives and university students from these families completed the questionnaires. Major findings were as follows: Most of the family performed the birthday parties, traditional rituals, and memorial days. The level of the performance of the birthday rituals, and rituals from western culture has increased for a decade. The socialization of the following family rituals is increasing: banquets for parents' 60th birthday, wedding anniversaries, employment ceremony, commencement ceremony. There was significant difference in the attitude between younger and older generations regarding performance of the family rituals between 1992 and 2002.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제9권1호
• /
• pp.24-34
• /
• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• 복식
• /
• 제64권5호
• /
• pp.154-167
• /
• 2014

This study explored culture adaptive attitudes and donning practices of traditional dress among Chinese marriage immigrant women. Quantitative research was conducted on Korea-Chinese multicultural families. Participants were 291 married women in Seoul and Gyeonggi Province. The data was analyzed using frequency analysis, factor analysis, t-test and correlation analysis. The findings are as follows: First, positive relationship was found between Hanbok acceptance attitudes and Qipao transmission attitudes. The level of Qipao transmission attitudes was higher than Hanbok acceptance attitudes especially in the part of knowledge. Han Chinese showed stronger Qipao transmission attitudes than Korean Chinese. Immigrants without Korean nationality had stronger Qipao transmission attitudes. Higher education group and higher income group showed higher level both on Hanbok acceptance attitudes and Qipao transmission attitudes. Second, more than 50% of Chinese marriage immigrant women wore Hanbok once or twice per a year. On the other hand, only 24% of them wore Qipao. This result shows that there exists a gap in the Qipao transmission attitudes and donning practices. 44% of women wore both Hanbok and Qipao in their own wedding ceremony, 32% wore only Hanbok, and 19% wore only Qipao. 64% of women had an experience of wearing Hanbok on special days such as traditional holidays or family affairs, whereas only 29% had worn Qipao.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제29권2호
• /
• pp.272-288
• /
• 2021

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of decoration techniques used in women's Chima and Jeogori in traditional Hanbok catalogs from 2010 to 2020, and to analyze the frequency of each type. The method of this study is as follows. This study first investigated the transition of modern Hanbok and decorative techniques by analyzing and classifying such work in previous studies. Based on this, the technique of decorating the Jeogori and Chima that appeared in the traditional Hanbok catalog of the study period was analyzed. The results of the study are as follows. In the case of Jeogori, in the first half of 2010, the decorative technique of a relatively large size was used, and the decorativeness tended to be strong. However, in the late 2010s, the number of decorative techniques used in Jeogori has decreased, and the size of the decorative technique has become smaller and more concise, leading to a tendency to understated decoration. In the case of Chima, techniques to express natural texture by processing threads or fabrics themselves were mainly used rather than techniques to add decoration to the surface, and techniques to express various surface texture tended to develop toward the late 2010s. The change in the decoration technique of Jeogori and Chima appears to be a combination of social, cultural, and economic factors such as a change in consumption culture and a reduction in the wedding market.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제25권4호
• /
• pp.33-44
• /
• 2022

최근 들어 한옥마을과 같은 전통문화를 즐길 수 있는 장소에서 한복 대여를 통해 남녀노소 누구나 쉽게 한복을 체험할 수 있게 되었다. 또한 한복을 착용하는 데서 그치지 않고 인증샷을 찍어 SNS에 공유함으로써 한복 체험이 선풍적인 인기를 얻게 되었다. 하지만 한옥마을과 같은 특정한 장소에서 할 수 있는 한복 체험을 제외하고는 일상생활에서 한복의 대중화는 어려운 실정이다. 따라서 한복을 일상복으로 대중화하기 위해서는 한복의 편의성뿐만 아니라 한복에서 느껴지는 감성적인 만족까지 반영하여 한복을 디자인을 하는 것이 중요하다. 본 연구는 선행연구를 통해 추출한 한복에서 느끼는 소비자의 감성을 표현하기 위한 감성 어휘 28개를 활용하여 한복 유형별로 느껴지는 소비자의 감성을 7점 리커드 척도로 측정하였다. 그리고 한복 유형별로 '느껴진다'에 해당하는 5점 이상의 점수를 기록한 감성 어휘와 감성 카테고리를 분석하였다. 또한 한복 유형별로 성별에 따른 감성 카테고리의 평균차이를 검증하였으며, 그 결과 호감 카테고리에서만 남녀 간의 유의한 차이가 있었다. 마지막으로 한복 유형을 전통 한복(배냇저고리, 색동저고리, 성인 전통 한복, 전통 혼례복)과 현대 한복(아동 생활 한복, 여자 생활 한복, 남자 생활 한복)으로 구분하여 감성 카테고리의 평균차이를 검증한 결과 6개의 감성 카테고리인 '유쾌감, 심미감, 조화감, 신선감, 호감, 안정감'에서 전통한복과 현대한복 간의 유의한 차이가 있었다. 본 연구에서 도출한 한복 유형별로 느껴지는 감성어휘에 대한 분석 결과는 소비자에게 보다 감성적인 만족을 제공하는데 도움이 되리라 기대된다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
• /
• 제56권3호
• /
• pp.76-98
• /
• 2023

국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》(덕수6375)에 묘사된 남녀 등장인물의 복식을 분석하고 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 추정한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 주인공 노신랑은 <전안례도>와 <교배례도>에서는 평소 관원으로 착용하던 흑단령을 착용하였다. 그 외 <헌수례도>와 <접빈도>, <중뢰연도>에서는 패영 없는 자립에 옥색 포, 홍색 세조대를 둘렀다. 기럭아범은 자립에 귀 옆에 묶은 패영을 달고 흉배를 부착한 무문 흑단령을 착용하였다. 성인 남자 자손과 하객들은 도포 등 당시의 대표적인 포 종류를 착용하였는데 특히 무관으로 추정되는 인물들은 철릭, 직령을 착용하고 붉은 색 띠와 청색 계통의 띠를 신분에 맞추어 착용하였다. 징씨(徵氏) 등 안내자는 중치막과 홍단령을 착용하였으며 어린 동자들과 시동(侍童)은 중치막을 착용하였다. 술을 따르고 음식을 나르는 총각들은 땋은 머리에 소창의(小氅衣)를 입고 성인들은 전립(氈笠)에 소창의를 착용하였다. 군영 소속의 세악수들은 소색 소창의에 흑색 전복, 그리고 허리에 남색 포대 등 군복을 착용하였다. 둘째, 노신부는 <교배례도>에서는 거두미와 초록원삼 차림을 하였고 <헌수연도>에서는 남치마·옥색저고리 차림이 확인되었다. 여자 자손들은 어여머리에 비녀와 반자, 진주댕기 등의 칠보장식을 하였고 다양한 색상의 저고리에 남색과 홍색, 옥색 등의 치마를 입었다. 남치마에 초록 장옷을 입은 부인도 확인되었다. 홍치마에 초록색 회장저고리를 입은 <교배례도>의 동녀(童女) 4명은 낭자머리에 비녀 꽂고 도다익 댕기를 길게 드리웠으며 칠보족두리를 썼다. 비자(婢子)들은 어여머리에 가리마를 썼으며 양반 부인들과 유사한 치마·저고리를 착용하였으나 색상이 연했고 치마의 길이가 짧았으며 치마의 부풀림 정도가 약하였다. 기녀는 양반 부인과 비슷한 모습이었으나 색상이 덜 화려하였으며 어여머리에는 칠보장식이 없었다. 셋째, 주인공의 자립 착용, 철릭과 직령을 입은 하객들, 군영 소속 세악수 참여 등에 근거하여 회혼례의 주인공이 병조나 군영과 관련된 인물이었을 가능성을 제시하였으며 군영 악대의 전복의 소매 길이와 잠화 사용, 어여머리의 형태와 댕기, 저고리의 길이와 치마의 부풀린 형태 등에 근거하여 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 1760년대~1780년대로 추정하였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제14권5호
• /
• pp.846-852
• /
• 2012

Pets (such as dogs) are considered as important as family members, this perspective is due to an aging population and the decreased size of the traditional nuclear family. The pet industry has been growing every year; subsequently, is useful to develop practical patterns and designs appropriate for the body structure and movement of pet dogs. However, studies to develop a new form of pet dog's wear patterns and designs are limited. This study develops a basic pattern that is easily used based on a pet dog's size, designs popular clothing items for pet dogs, and helps in the manufactures of pet dog's wear. The results are as follow: 1) Analyzed categories and popular items of pet dog's wear from the research of the prior studies and on-line pet dog shopping malls; three categories (everyday wear, street wear, and special wear) and six items (T-shirt, one-piece, coat, jumper, and dress, tuxedo). 2) Developed the basic bodice pattern and sleeve pattern after test-wearing and revising the experimental patterns referenced from prior studies. 3) Developed patterns and designs for six popular items based on situation and gender: one-piece (everyday wear), coat (street wear), wedding dress (special wear) for female dogs/T-shirt (everyday wear), hood jumper (street wear), tuxedo (special wear) for male dogs. 4) Developed the previous six items to illustrate the research results of the study.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제19권1호
• /
• pp.71-79
• /
• 1995

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 19, No. 1 (199i) p. 71~79 The authors study on the traditional textile production and the formal dress through the field research concerning the folk attitude toward dress style around the Mt. Kumo area. In this area, people produced and wove hemp, cotton, and silk except ramie. Because of poor production of raw materials, they produced textiles only for self-sufficiency. Every household dealt with dyeing on a small scale. In the past, people dyed cloth natually using plants as material. Natural dyeing, however, gradually changed into chemical one since the Japanese rule. The formal dresses, which people wore on particular occasions such as the hundredth day after child's brith, the first birthday, and traditional holidays, were very meager due to poor living standards. People could not see the formal dresses with full decoration. Bride and bridegroom were the village.owned wedding dresses, and if they could not afford to, they simply put cloth on to remember the occasion. People around the Mt. Kumo area, however, provided fully-decorated shroud and ritual robes to the level of other better-off areas. It seemed to be the result of influence of deep-rooted Confucianism in Gyungbuk province. This Phenomenon could be found in the folk dress style in other regions as well as the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province.

• 복식
• /
• 제61권4호
• /
• pp.92-102
• /
• 2011

This study researches the current status of shrouds and analyzes the current status of the Hanji shrouds and sets its goal on suggesting the direction for a futuristic shroud design, suitable for the changing funeral culture. For this, the characteristics of traditional shrouds were studied, standard shrouds' and Hanji shrouds' current statuses were researched and analyzed to suggest the development diretion for design of Hanji shrouds. The results of the research showed that the Hanji shrouds are superior in cremation and burial, and the design expressions were more effective. Also the previously established shrouds were shown to have an increase in value through use of different materials, changing designs through various patterns, or through the added symbolic value. Thus the direction of shroud development designs based on the advantages of Hanji have been drawn out to as follows: First, traditional shrouds used the ceremonial dresses, such as official uniforms or wedding dresses, from the Tang dynasty which made it multicolored. Afterwards colors were limited with the use of hemp clothes shrouds but with the appearance of Hanji shrouds, the possibility for mulitcolors and patterns became larger. Second, Hanji is superior in its expression of colors and patterns, making designs with symbolic sides such as religion possible, to meet the demands of the customers. Third, Hanji shrouds are more environmentaly friendly than the standard shrouds in cremation and burial, and it presents a much better image of shrouds for the future society. Such development of Hanji shrouds design developments satisfies the distinct and gentrified demands of the customers and it looks to be able to suggest an opportunity for environmentaly friendly actions while preparing itself for the chaning market demands and values.