• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.406-413
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• 2013

The objective of this research is to find out status and consciousness about shrouds according to changes of Jeju's rural funeral ritual while reviewing Jeju's traditional shrouds. Consciousness of customs regarding tradition is much stronger in Jeju Island. Since it was said that shrouds and changes of funeral ritual have very systematic correlation according to the result of precedent researches, changes of funeral rituals of Jeju's rural area were examined. At the same time, consciousness about traditional shrouds of Jeju people was also studied. As the result of examination through literary investigation, visits to rural homes, visits to production places of Jeju's shrouds and interviews with grandmothers designated as human cultural assets of traditional Jeju shrouds, etc, it was found out that Jeju's rural funeral rituals had been rapidly changed since 2000. Traditional Jeju shrouds are also disappearing. In particular, old women of Jeju have considered preparation of their own and their husbands' shrouds in advance as a virtue. However, as it gradually became more difficult to produce and prepare traditional shrouds at homes and as the space of funeral was changed from their own houses to hospitals and/or commercial funeral homes, it was found out that a ratio of people's using general shrouds sold in market was increased and it is believed that this kind of trend will be accelerated more and more in the future.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.100-123
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• 2000

The purpose of this research was to understand changes in Korean shrouds and to enhance practical usage of them by examing the items and shapes of Korean shrouds classified into two categories, traditional and current. We first examined the history of shrouds and funeral ceremonies from the prehistoric age to the Chos o n dynasty, and second, examined the items and shapes of traditional and current shrouds. As for the items, no big changes were recognized though there had been some changes in the way of using Keum(衾), Po(袍), and Kwadu(裏　). Overall, the items had becamesomewhat simplified The traditional shapes of shrouds are relatively well-maintained despite some changes in current shrouds Aksu, Yeomo(女帽), etc, which had been made easier to put on.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.123-137
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to analyze the actual condition and problems of current ready-made shrouds. Current shrouds were formed after the 20th century and therefore are quite apart from its traditional precedents of Chosun Dynasty. In this respect, several problems can be pointed out. 1. The use of natural colored hemp as a primary textile of current shrouds is far from our tradition. Silk, ramie, and cotton have to be used together with hemp. Also, more variety of colors can be used other than natural white. 2. The size of ready-made shrouds has to be categorized at least into three: large, medium and small 3. The pattern and sowing method of Dopo(도포) and Wonsam(원삼) should be corrected in line with those of the traditional Dopo(도포) and Wonsam(원삼). 4. The design and items of current ready-made shrouds have to break away from the standardized convention and should seek more of a variety that our rich tradition provide. 5. The rational index should be suggested so that consumers can compared the quality and price of ready-made shrouds available at their hands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.92-102
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• 2011

This study researches the current status of shrouds and analyzes the current status of the Hanji shrouds and sets its goal on suggesting the direction for a futuristic shroud design, suitable for the changing funeral culture. For this, the characteristics of traditional shrouds were studied, standard shrouds' and Hanji shrouds' current statuses were researched and analyzed to suggest the development diretion for design of Hanji shrouds. The results of the research showed that the Hanji shrouds are superior in cremation and burial, and the design expressions were more effective. Also the previously established shrouds were shown to have an increase in value through use of different materials, changing designs through various patterns, or through the added symbolic value. Thus the direction of shroud development designs based on the advantages of Hanji have been drawn out to as follows: First, traditional shrouds used the ceremonial dresses, such as official uniforms or wedding dresses, from the Tang dynasty which made it multicolored. Afterwards colors were limited with the use of hemp clothes shrouds but with the appearance of Hanji shrouds, the possibility for mulitcolors and patterns became larger. Second, Hanji is superior in its expression of colors and patterns, making designs with symbolic sides such as religion possible, to meet the demands of the customers. Third, Hanji shrouds are more environmentaly friendly than the standard shrouds in cremation and burial, and it presents a much better image of shrouds for the future society. Such development of Hanji shrouds design developments satisfies the distinct and gentrified demands of the customers and it looks to be able to suggest an opportunity for environmentaly friendly actions while preparing itself for the chaning market demands and values.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.15-29
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• 2015

Apart from keeping the body pleasant and protecting it from the environment, the purpose of clothing is to express one's sensibility, sense of belonging, status, and aesthetic sense. In the past, hanbok was also used to express status and class with the colors and the types and according to the times, the forms of hanbok has changed. Nowadays, people choose and wear hanbok that suits their tastes or purposes and various types of hanbok that considered pros and cons of it are now disseminated. Given this reality, traditional shrouds that are worn by the dead should also be designed newly to fit the modern trend. This research aims to analyze how people's sensibility preferences change on the traditional shrouds and the modern shrouds that are designed to fit the current trend. To see the change, this research analyzes sensibility preferences by using Semantic Differential Method on 4 modern shrouds that are used in preceding research and 1 traditional shroud. The survey was answered by total of 130 ordinary people in groups of 26 people in 5 groups who reside in Seoul and Kyungkhi province. As the result of the analysis, firstly, people preferred "high quality", "elegant", and "Korean" sensibility words for modern shrouds 1, 2, 3, and 4. Secondly, on traditional shroud, "uncomfortable", "neutral-elegant", "neutral-Korean", and "neutral-quality" that is closer to low quality sensibility words are preferred. Thirdly, "modest" and "extravagant" did not show any statistically significant difference. I hope this research can provide basic data that can be used to understand and comprehend on people's sensibility preference about shroud designs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.127-140
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• 1998

A study on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from excavated tomb of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461-1528) is reported in this paper. This study is aimed at establishing database for a traditional Korean costume construction and emphasizing the necessity for development of methodology in writing report from excavated costume including measuring, construction methods and materials. This paper includes examples of measured length for each part of 'Dan-Ryung', reconstructured drawings, pictures, and construction methods. The followings on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century are found in this study: 1) Dan-Ryung robes were made of less expensive hemp, cotton, silk & cotton, and ramie & silk. 2) As a whole, Dan-Ryung was lengthy and spacious and it had straighter and narrower sleeves when compared to the ones from the late Chosun. 3) There existed Moo which was large rectangular guest with double pleats at Dan-Ryung's side seam. Its round collar was constructed with a 3 cm width bias. Ball buttons on the outer collar and loops on the right shoulder are attached. 4) There existed a pair of indirectly attached slim and short strings. Inside string is directly attached. 5) Inside of the shoulder, a U-shaped shoulder pad made of the same cloth as the inner cloth was attached. hand sewing methods used include delicate flat-felled seam stitch, back-stitch and sew-up stitch.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.391-400
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• 2007

This purpose of this study is to announce the research for the formative characteristics and the constructive characteristics for the 23 pair of pants excavated from the tomb of Yeosan Song's family at Mokdal Dong in Daejeon. Men and women wore the open-type over the close-type pants. Song Hyo-sang and Chungjoo Park wore the 1 or 2 pairs of the open-type pants over the 3 pairs of close-type pants. Song Hee-jong and his wife Sonhung An wore a pair of the open-style pants over the 1 or 2 pairs of pants. It was due to the shortage of goods by the war that Song Heejong had less shrouds than Song Hyosang. The pants were almost made of the cotton and the silk. The open-type pants worn inside was made of the cotton but outside was made of the silk. That time the cotton was used for the unlined underwears for the health and the protection against the cold and the hot. The silk was used for the outwear. In the construction type, 12 pairs of pants were unlined, 6 pairs of pants were quilted, 4 pairs of pants were padded, and 1 pair of pants was lined. All unlined were the close-type and the quilted and padded pants were the open-type, which were worn inside. Lined type was just one. In the wearing order of shrouds, type, textile, and constructive type, Song Hyosang and Chungjo Park were similar, Song Heejong and Sonhung An were similar.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.37-48
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• 2019

This study, which starting from Yangyang Jukdo's topography formation and questioning revealed in landscape guide and landscape commentary board, is to sort out the characteristics of Jukdo natural landscape through literature research, field observation research and stakeholder interview as part of the proper recognition of Jokdo landscape and search for landscape resources, and pursued a review of nominations and criticism. The results of this study are summarized as follows. Yangyang Jukdo is an island named because it was full of blue bamboo. From before the first half of the 14th Century. to the middle of the 18th Century., there was a Gwanlan-pavilion to see the sea and the bamboo in the west. The time when the original island, the Jukdo, have been a land-tied island connected with the land by the tombolo formed by the erosion of the sand. It is located at the end of the 14th Century. and before the middle of the 18th Century. In Jukdo, colorful weathered terrains, coastal terrain, and structural terrain formed by long-time weathering are found. Among them, the type of weathering, the tafoni style and the gnamma style are the scenic landscapes with the key stories of legend and poetry that are brought to Jukdo. In addition, there are seven kinds of letters caved in the rocks in Jukdo. The rocks found on the coast, basketball cannons, shrines, and sutras are seen as shrouds based on a Taoist hermit motifs and style. In addition, it can be interred from the photography of "jeongssisejeog" that the souvenir of Jukdo was the family of Chogyejeong of mid 18th Century. In terms of observational geography and poetry, Jukdo has been handed down a great deal of missionary color with key motifs such as 'Jukdo-seongoo', 'Jukdo-Dolgooyoo', or 'Stone mortar of Taoist hermit' It is proved that the pearl which is called 'The stone of the Taoist hermit' is a porthole formed in a separate space rather than the topography of the geomorphology in terms of shape, size and function. Currently named Shun-tang is a product of the ridiculous 'naming' of interest. The present landscape guide and commentary is not only incompatible with the place of Jukdo, but also does not match the traditional cultural landscape. Future scenery information such as guide signs and commentary boards should be improved in the direction of positively highlighting the stories and motifs related to the present that are present in order to enhance the landscape identity of Yangyang Jukdo.