• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.131-139
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• 2010

The ten traditional symbols of longevity are represented as 10 which means perfection in oriental philosophy, the sun, mountain, water, cloud, rock, pine tree, elixir plant, tortoise, crane and deer. each subjects symbolizing longevity had used in isolation. unlike China and Japan, the ten symbols of longevity became a fixed form and was widely used in paintings, household effects and clothes in Korea. therefore, It will be a meaningful study how the ten symbols of longevity, as one of subjects in painting, changed into a pattern on clothes. The ten symbols of longevity was affected by various philosophies and religion. especially, it laid emphasis on order by Yin-Yang and the Five Elements theory. the order was applied to arrange each subjects and use colors carefully. the sun colored with red and was on the upper. the pine tree colored with green meaned tree and was on the left. the earth and the mountain meaned the soil and was on the center. the rock meaned the iron and was on the right. the water meaned the water and was on the bottom. The subjects of the study were embroideries like spectacle cases, spoon cases and pouches. the scope of study was the Latter Part of the Joseon Dynasty because there are more relics in the Joseon Dynasty than any other times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.35-46
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to closely examine the history of glasses and their cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty and identify inherent quality of our traditional glasses cases through color analyses of glasses cases' material and shape. While theoretical examination was conducted based on the literatures of glasses and their cases that firstly appeared in around Japanese Invasion (Imjin war) of Korea in 1592, practical analyses were demonstrated on photos of glasses cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty collected from both museum pieces and the internet which were grouped into wood, fabric, paper, sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn in accordance with their materials. 623 color samples were abstracted from collected 159 glasses cases and quantity analyses on each material were performed respectively. Abstracted representative colors based on the result of color analyses were classified into the main materials and accessories' color scheme. The result of this study are as follow: firstly, both Yellow and Yellow Red were mostly used in main materials. In Fabric case's colors were widely used in embroidery and in animal matter material cases such as sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn, which can be used as itself or dyed, Green Yellow shown in high frequency. Secondly, accessories were analyzed into similarity coloration with main materials. From this finding, it turns out that our traditional cases have characteristic of similarity coloration between main materials and accessories. Red Purple and Purple Blue in high frequency in accessories used as an accent color. Finally, based on the analysis of hue and tone, while the middle and low value colors shown in very high frequency, the high-chroma colors hardly shown.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.79-93
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• 2013

In the Korean literature, records of systematic gold thread manufacturing such as gold foil(金 箔匠), gold foil bonded with fabrics(付金匠), gold foil bonded with paper materials(金箋紙匠), refining gold(鍊金匠), cutting gold(裁金匠), and making gold thread(絲金匠) can be easily found. We can infer from these literatures that the Korean people used to make gold threads. However, is not existent the gold thread making technique. Thus, a research was done using 67 pieces of gold thread artifacts used in textiles craft of Korea, China and Japan. The purpose of this research was to identify the characteristics of the Korean gold thread by studying the artifacts' form classification, gold foil, glue and the base. First, gold thread is divided into flat gold thread and wrapped gold thread. Wrapped gold thread was made in more various methods such as with a paper on the flat gold thread, metal thread and wrapped gold thread with gold foil on top. Compared to the flat gold thread, wrapped gold thread uses a thread that has a thinner and wider. Through this analysis, even making of the base of the gold threads was different according to the type. Secondly, we looked into the characteristics of materials according to form structure of the gold thread. After analysis of experiment results, we could know that to attach Korean gold thread, glue and the mixture of materials such as Red soil(朱土) was also added. The kinds of the base of gold threads were identified as paper, leather and intestines. Among those materials, for paper, Korea's Dakji, China's Sangpiji(桑皮紙) and Jukji(竹紙) and Japan's Anpiji(雁皮紙) seemed to have all been used, so because of the difference among countries, we can prove that Korea has also produced gold thread. By looking at the research, the base of gold threads and making features hugely vary according to the area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.1-13
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine the types of and figurative characteristics of in women's embroidered handicrafts of Korea. It also aims to revive Korean traditional beauty, to examine the applicability of Korean traditional design that has both modern beauty and practicality, and to develop Korean women's embroidered handicrafts. The types of women's embroidered of Korea include Jumoni (pouches), Bojagi (wrapping cloths), and other accessories made by sewing. Jumoni consisting of 55.51% of them was the most frequently used handicraft followed by Bojagi (8.66%), and other accessories (35.83%). In terms of the patterns used, animal pattern and plant pattern were used the most frequently. In addition, complex patterns using two or three patterns together(70.49) were more frequent than singular patterns (29.53%). Pictorial type of pattern arrangement (58.24%) was used the most frequently and dense type (39.76%) and sparse type (2.00%) were followed. In terms of the materials on which embroidery was used, Dahn (85.82%) was used the most frequently followed by wool (5.67%), cotton (4.26%), silk (3.55%), and Sa (0.70%). Various techniques of stitches were used such as outline stitch (40.56%), satin and running stitch (29.32%), French nut stitch (28.11%), long and short stitch (21.28%), double leaf stitch (20.88%), and so on. Among them, satin stitch (63.05%) was the most popular type of stitch techniques. Strings (23.56%), maedeup (Korean traditional knots, 8.62%), or tassels (9.77%) were also attached for the purpose of both practicality and of decoration. There were some cases that added cloissone or red-pepper shaped decorations.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.1-19
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• 1997

This thesis is a reflection of Korean aestheticism and how it has evolved and influenced Korean contemporary fashion throughout the last century. Up to the current, there have been five notable trends of fashion that have been influenced from and have reflected the qualities emblematic of various periods in Korean history. They can be characterized as the era of Missionary fashion, Uniform fashion, Salon fashion, Brand Name Fashion, and finally, fashion from the current era of diversification. The specific characteristics of each fashion era have been analized and illustrated in a comprehensive table. Design characteristics of Korean contemporary fashion are as follows : 1. A point of emphasis is given to facial feature, unconstructive design and ample silhouette and A silhouette, two-piece and pants. Korean style wrap skirt, a smooth curve and layered style. 2. Effect of flatness from material; as methods of quilting, reinforced dual stitching(Kaeki), patchwork, embroidery and goldfoil thread extra, it is turned up that texture of cloth stuff and effects of flatness. 3. Simple color combinations give effects in two different directions For instance, white and a variety of vivid colors, a dull color and bright colors, black, blue. 4. Over-design, diffusion of fashion. Based on the design characteristics described above, the essence of Korea's beauty consciousness can be captured and summarized through the following points: 1. Emotionalism and non-characterism: traditional and simple natural beauty and modernized natural beauty. 2. From authoritism to non-authoritism: traditional and formal personal beauty and casual characteristic beauty. 3. Polaris (antithesis) phenomenon: chastic beauty and ostentatious beauty, simplicity and lavishness, conformity of fashion and originality. Although the beauty consciousness of Korean contemporary fashion is changing from traditional passive metaphor to aesthetic expressionism for the new generation, after all the basic foundation or root of the spiritual beauty of idealism is usually recognized by focusing on the face.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.17-33
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to find the character of Cleopatra (69 B.C-30 B.C) by analyzing materials about Cleopatra, and to figure out symbolism and costume presented in movie . Costume of the main character, Cleopatra, compound the type of Egyptian traditional clothes, the change of it, and the trend in the 1960's. And, the symbolic meaning of it is also reinforced by adding ancient Egyptian myth to it. This kind of symbol is usually represented in Cleopatra clothing, especially in weaving pattern, embroidery, and ornament. And color of the clothes not only have their on predominance, but also can have their meaning fade away by mixed with each other, and also the shape has relation with the meaning of color. To sum up, the color and pattern of ancint Egyptian Cleopatra as alive formalize the power that come from coherence with the sun god in the center, which a used to maintain the power of the king. Costume in movie also contained color and pattern as a symbol of religion to symbolize the absolute power of king. These kinds of symbols are reemerging through historical recurrences and exotic interests.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.135-143
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• 2006

The definition of the 'Pocket', according to the Korean encyclopedia, is an accessory that a person puts in small belongings or money and carry on waist or holds with a hand. Since the pockets were not attached to the clothes at that period of time, the portable bag or pocket had been used without distinction of age or sex for carrying personal belongings. The pocket in France was also used in a similar manner, where it was used as a handbag to carry purse, comb, or a key by women during the middle ages. The pockets were decorated, made of quality material such as velvet, silk, or satin with splendid embroidery or beads. This study closely examines the history of the pocket from late 16th century around Renaissance to early 20th century in France and during the mid Cho-Sun dynasty in Korea and compares the different kinds of patterns, symbolism, and the purpose of the pockets. In addition, the relationships between the pockets, belongings, and ornament are examined as well by thoroughly investigating the unique characteristics of the pocket of each country.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.6 s.59
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• pp.999-1010
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• 2005

The purposes of this study were to investigate used patterns in Hanbok and to find out a classification and a characteristic of motifs. The data made use of 111 pictures constituted Gegory(a Korean jacket) and Chima(a skirt) in photographs collected in wedding magazine(Wedding 21'). The data was analyzed by frequency, contents analysis. Pattern's use or not in Hanbok and a sort, a arrangement, a way of expression of patterns using frequency Classified and characteristics of motifs were analyzed contents analysis. The results of this study were as follows. First, a sort of patterns was lots of flower motifs of the plant pattern. An arrangement of and expression of patterns used mainly a partial arrangement and embroidery expression. Second, the subjects classified using criterion of classification of a external feature, forms of expression, and simplicity/complexity of line. Third, the motifs classified into plants, an animal, geometry, abstraction, and a natural object. The plant motifs were perceived the focus of flower, a combination of a flower and a stem in the plant motifs. The subjects perceived as a simplicity/complexity of flower and a drawing line of a flower and a stem.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.67-79
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• 2016

The Oroqen (鄂伦春) traditional costume refers to what the nomadic Oroqen people used to wear before they settled into fixed communities. With very limited contact with the outside world and with limited resources, the clothing material was virtually entirely animal hide. With settlement, especially after 1996, animal hide clothing has declined among the Oroqen. As an important part of Oroqen tradition and culture, the Oroqen people keep endevoring to promote costume design through competition and exhibitions. Therefore, this paper seeks to present an insightful understanding of Oroqen culture and the formative features of their general clothing. We explored the formative features of Oroqen animal hide clothing based on an analysis of actual artifacts and literature. As a result, the characteristics of Oroqen hide clothing were found in five types - coats, trousers, hats, shoes, gloves. For the decoration, embroidery and applique were their way of decoration, and Mother Nature was their source of pattern design.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.1 s.215
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• pp.101-113
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate and compare the characteristics of the motifs on cultural goods in In-Sa-Dong Street, Seoul, with those in Art Street, City Hall, Kwang-ju. For this study, 607 cultural goods were collected from the two cities: 265 in Seoul and 342 in Kwang-ju. Total cultural goods were classified by accessories, decoration pieces, stationery and ceramics and were studied by repetition patterns, motifs types, representative techniques, and representative types. The results were as follows. First, for repetition patterns of motifs, there were 219 simple repetition patterns in Seoul, and 289 in Kwang-ju, and 46 compound repetition patterns in Seoul, and 53 in Kwang-ju. The ratio of simple repetition pattern was higher than that of compound repetition pattern in both cities. Second, for motif types, floral, animal, letter, and graphic motifs were used far more frequently than any other motif types. Third, for representative techniques, embroidery was far more frequently used than any other representative techniques. Metallic crafts, chil-bo and paper techniques were also favored. Fourth, for representative types, realistic types were more common than abstract types.