• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.8-15
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• 1996

Three pieces of cotton fabrics used for this study were exhumed in the Mt.Moo Deung near Kwang Ju in 1965. The fabrics were remains of Jang Heung Lim Si-the nephew's wife of General Kim Deok Ryeong. It was reported that Jang Heung Lim Si died in 1615. The cotton fabrics were classified into three, A, B and C, according to their color. The fabric A was inherent color of cotton, the fabric B was that of light brown and the fabric C was that of dark brown. The physical and chemical characteristics of the cotton fabrics were examined. In the meantime the construction of cotton fabrics and traditional dyeing of Yi dynasty were studied through various records. The results were as follows: 1. According to electromicroscopic examination, the lumen in the cotton fiber had not been developed enough, therefore the quality of cotton at that time was supposed to be not so excellent. 2. The results of chemical analysis indicated that: (1) While the copper number of the cotton fabric A was similar to that of bleached cotton, that of the fabric C was extremely high. (2) The amount of methylene blue absorption was much more than that of normal cotton. (3) The content of cellulose was less than that of normal cotton. (4) The degree of polymerization was less than that of normal cotton. From the results mentioned above, it was concluded that the cotton fabrics were oxidized slowly in the closed lime coffin for a long period of time. From this process of oxidization and deterioration, the degree of polymerization was decreased through depolymerization, and carboxyl groups were produced by the oxidization at reducing end groups. 3. It was confirmed that the cotton fabric C was dyed by the juice of immature persimmon. Thus, it was inferred that the large amount of copper number of cotton fabric C was derived from phenolic OH groups of tannins having high reducing properties in persimmon.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.560-567
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• 2023

This study aims to rediscover the industrial value of a borderless service in the hyper-connected era by producing fashion content at the forefront of the cultural industry as XR content and contributing to developing fashion content for edutech. The research method employed design aesthetic theory, while the empirical proposal utilized scientific knowledge information to build a framework for 3D convergence content. The characteristics of fashion content exhibitions that apply the neumorphism technique are as follows: The first is a virtual space that produces clothing culture by type. Africa, where dyeing and crafts are developed, selects a product-oriented exhibition type; Asia, where weaving and textiles are excellent, selects a random movement type; and Europe, where the evolution of clothing design over time is evident, selects a guided movement type to create a three-dimensional fashion edutech. The goal was to produce content. The second is creative reproducibility, which combines a new fashion design that embraces the aura of the original with a trendy sense. The realistic folk costume style of the original allowed for its implementation in the AR exhibition space using historical traditional style techniques such as weaving and textiles. The third is building organic, modular content. By designing and then saving/editing/arranging the basic VP zone for each style, learners and instructors can freely edit the content for each fashion class topic and create various presentations to ensure that it functions as non-face-to-face edutech content around the world.

• 동아시아식생활학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.32-37
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• 2009

This study was carried out to gather basic data on the restoration and extent of Don tea (a coin-shaped tea), the traditional tea of Korea. We examined the physicochemical components and anti-microbial activity of Don tea extracts at 0, 5 and 10 months. The Hunter value $L^*$, of Don tea extracts which were matured for 10 months decreased from 7.01 to 4.97 compared to that when the extracts were first manufactured. However, the $b^*$ value increased from 0.09 to 2.67. There were higher contents of inorganic matter in Don tea extracts following manufacture in the order of K (14.12 mg/100 mL), Mg (0.94 mg/100 mL), P (0.88 mg/100 mL), Ca (0.16 mg/100 mL) and Mn (0.16 mg/100 mL). Classified catechins contents were found in the order of C (19.97 mg/100 mL), EGC (9.30 mg/100 mL), ECG (9.02 mg/100 mL), GCG (8.50 mg/100 mL), GC (7.61 mg/100 mL) and CG (5.63 mg/100 mL). The longer the maturation period of the Don tea extracts, the lower the contents of inorganic matter and catechins. However, this did not apply to the total phenol contents, particularly in the phenol contents of Don tea extracts matured for 10 months which increased by 93.82 mg/l00 mL. Don tea extracts which were matured for longer periods showed higher anti-microbial activities against Bacillus subtilis and Streptococcus mutans. However, there were lower activities against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli and Salmonella enteritidis. Consequently, it was concluded that a shorter maturation period was required for the effective utilization of the inorganic matter, the catechins and the gram-negative bacteria in the Don tea extracts. However, a longer maturation period of 10 months was found to effectively utilize the total phenol compound contents and the gram-positive bacteria.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.52-67
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• 2021

본 논문은 조선시대 다회장과 매듭장의 협업 관계 규명을 시도하였다. 근대 변혁기를 거치며 다회장은 해체되었으며 매듭장은 국가무형문화재로 지정되었다. 이는 과거를 매듭장 중심으로 바라보는 계기가 되었다. 반면 다회장의 인식과 연구는 매듭장의 일부 공정 정도로만 소략하게 진행되었다. 본 연구는 문헌기록을 중심으로 조선시대 다회장과 매듭장의 역할을 규명해보았다. 다회장은 여러 올의 명주실을 엮거나 꼬아 띠와 끈을 만든 장인이었다. 제작한 끈으로 매듭을 맺거나 망수·술을 만들어 장엄용 공예품을 제작하기도 하였다. 다회는 품목과 기법이 다양한 공예 기술이었다. 예복, 예악, 장황 등 장엄물과 관끈, 조대, 주머니끈, 노리개 등 일상품으로 폭넓게 제작되었다. 대형유소부터 방석끝까지 크고 작은 쓰임새가 많았기 때문에 거의 모든 의궤에 다회장이 소속되었다. 현대사회에는 매듭장이 정련, 염색, 합사, 다회, 매듭, 술 등 전 과정을 담당하지만 조선시대에는 다회장이 과정의 주축을 담당하였다. 도감 설치 시 다회장과 매듭장이 모두 귀속된 방은 연여를 제작하는 방이었다. 다회장과 매듭장의 협업 관계는 연여에 수식되는 대형유소에서 발생하였다. 대형유소는 2m 넘는 길이의 굵은 원다회로 매듭을 맺은 장엄용 공예품이다. 다회장이 원다회를 짜면 매듭장이 섬세하고 균형 있는 매듭을 맺었다. 또 굵은 원다회에 망수와 술을 달아 인장을 꾸미는 인수도 분담하여 제작하였다. 기술은 인간의 생애 속에서 시대의 필요에 따라 발전과 쇠퇴를 반복한다. 전통 기술을 직시하기 위해서는 시대적 제도와 사회상의 흐름을 살펴볼 필요가 있다. 본 논문은 조선시대 때 보편적인 장색이었으나 오늘날 낯선 존재가 된 다회장을 입체적으로 조명하였다는 데 의미가 있다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.191-208
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• 2021

본 연구에서는 전국 및 지역별 지중 흰개미 정기 모니터링 실시 기관들의 결과보고서를 바탕으로 국내 목조문화재의 지역별, 지정별 지중 흰개미 피해 및 관리 현황을 파악하였다. 또한 조사 내용들을 바탕으로 GIS 프로그램을 이용하여 전국 2,805건의 조사 대상 목조문화재에 대한 지중 흰개미 가해흔 및 가해 진행 현황 지도를 제작하였다. 현황 지도 제작 결과, 2018년~2019년의 기간 동안 총 486건의 목조문화재에서 지중 흰개미 가해흔이 확인되었으며, 그중 143건(약 29.4%)에서 지중 흰개미 권역 유입 및 목부재 가해가 진행 중인 것으로 확인되었다. 위와 같이 조사된 피해 현황 자료의 접근성을 높이기 위하여 Map API를 활용한 웹 플랫폼 및 웹 어플리케이션을 제작하였다. 또한 기관별 결과보고서에서 확인된 지중 흰개미 모니터링 방안으로는 탐지견, 육안관찰, 예찰기, 극초단파 장비 등이 지중 흰개미의 유입 유무 파악 방안으로 적용되고 있으나 유입된 지중 흰개미 군체의 영역 범위를 판단할 모니터링 조사 방안은 현재 적용되고 있지 않은 것으로 확인되었다. 이에 따라 지중 흰개미 군체 모니터링 조사 시, 대상 목조문화재의 가해 영역 범위 산정 등 현황 파악을 위한 염색약 처리 및 Mark-Release-Recapture법의 적용이 필요할 것으로 판단된다.

• 복식
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.115-131
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• 2007

By the turn of the century, our society has been gradually more interested in environmental problems than any other time. Ecological change spurred by industrial pollution is occurring beyond the borders of nations, and has emerged as a global issue. Such change is resulting in exhaustion of natural resources and energy, and serious climatic change. In this study, main focus regarding the process of the fashion product design system was placed on the sustainable fashion design of organic cotton as a positive and alternative suggestion. It is expected that the results of this study contribute to the fashion design planning not only for future generation but also for the present time. This study researched on brands that produced their fashion products using organic cotton. The following cases proved to possess sustainability in their product system. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: Firstly, sustainable design in organic cotton products has been a progressive ere-design in 2000s. It is mainly focus concerned with recycling and re-use of materials to protect environment. It is not chemical dependant and takes a particular care in eliminating waste water and energy in the dyeing process. It is an environmentally sustainable design better than all the other design processes. Secondly, it is a design that cares for the common good of society and the global system of fair trading. The fair trading of organic cotton products induced a change in the structure of production system, while defending human rights. It also gave benefits by promoting development in local society and progress in traditional skills. Not to mention that it contributed to building up the concept of transparency in the global economic system. Lastly, the brands emphasize their social responsibility and management ethics to observe environmental policy which is established to protect our nature and people. Their public information reminds customers of the importance of protecting the environment from diverse pollution. Moreover, they hold social events to promote public awareness for environmental Issues. This study dealt only with the organic cotton, a small subset of the subject of sustainable design. It can be extended and applied to various other sustainable fashion design as a solution for global environmental issues.

• 동아시아식생활학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.391-396
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• 2008

This study was carried out to help restore and spread broaden the consumption of Chungtaejeon, a our traditional tea, Chungtaejeon in Korea, and as well as to gather the basic data on Chutaejeon tea. We have also compared the various ingredients components and physiological activities of Chungtaejeon tea extracts with that of green tea extracts. According to the results, the total phenol contents in of the Chungtaejeon and green tea extracts were 90.56 and 98.70 mg/100 mL, respectively, and their tannin contents levels in Chungtaejeon and green tea extracts were 214.14 mg/100 mL and 259.60 mg/100 mL, respectively, showing a difference in content. The catechin contents of the Chetaejeon and green tea extracts were in the order of EGC($15.80{\sim}16.50\;mg/100mL$), EGCG($10.40{\sim}10.60\;mg/100 mL$), and ECG($9.55{\sim}9.88\;mg/100 mL$), however, with the exception of EC(7.86 mg/100 mL) in the green tea extracts, there were not significant differences between that in them Chetaejeon and green tea extracts. Quercetin was the main flavonoid ingredient component in those both the Chungtaejeon and green tea extracts was quercetin, at levels of 0.08 mg/100 mL and 0.06 mg/100 mL and its contents in Chungtaejeon and green tea extracts were 0.08 mg/100 mL and 0.06 mg/100 mL, respectively. The primary amino acid in both tea extracts was theanine main amino acid at levels of, theanine contents were most increased in 8.02 mg/100mL and 10.80 mg/100 mL, respectively, Chungtaejeon tea extracts by 8.02 mg/100 mL and green tea extracts by 10.80 mg/100 mL. And the arginine contents of the Chungtaejeon and green tea extracts in Chungtaejeon and green tea extracts were 1.78 mg/100 mL and 1.86 mg/100 mL, respectively. In terms of mineral composition, potassium content was highest contents in the Chungtaejeon and green tea extracts by 19.80 and 18.04 mg/100 mL, respectively. Finally, the Chungtaejeon tea extracts offered the greatest anti-oxidation and ACE inhibition activities were most increased in the Chungtaejeon tea extracts, and the green tea extracts showed the highest level of nitrite radical scavenging activity at 90% was extremely much increased in the green tea extracts by 90%.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제37권2호
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• pp.120-134
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• 2021

조선 말기 방한용 깔개인 모담(毛毯)이 창덕궁 성정각의 해체 공사 중 발견되었다. 문헌기록에 비해 현전하는 조선시대 모직물 유물이 많지 않아 유물로서 가치가 높다. 특히 1907년 창덕궁 성정각을 수리한 기록이 있어, 모담은 19세기 말 또는 20세기 초에 제작된 것으로 생각된다. 출토 모담은 자적색 계열의 바탕 직물로 위에 황색, 홍색 등으로 선염한 색사를 표면에만 삽입하여 문양을 시문하였다. 모담의 식서부분은 S연의 면사가 확인되었으며, 지경사는 Z연의 황마사, 지위사는 S연의 황마사, 문경사는 S연의 모사를 사용했다. 특히 무늬는 루프파일의 색사로, 색사의 경계면에서 일부 컷 파일이 확인되나 지위사로 고정되어 표면에 거의 드러나지 않는 다. 황마사와 모사를 사용한 것은 18세기 중엽 유럽의 브뤼셀 카펫의 영향을 받은 것으로 짐작된다. 모담의 문양을 밝히는 데 한계가 있으며 다만 문양이 부분적으로 반복됨을 알 수 있다. 이상의 연구내용을 도출하기 위해 문헌과 회화자료 외에 현미경 분석, 적외선 분광분석을 실시하였다. 또한 유물에 사용된 염료를 밝히기 위해 색도측정을 토대로 자외-가시광 분광분석을 실시하여 천연 염색한 직물 샘플에 대한 교차분석을 시도하였다. 그 결과 모담의 녹색 모사는 쪽을 사용하지 않았으며, 자적색의 바탕조직은 소목으로 염색한 것으로 추정할 수 있다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.65-80
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.486-493
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• 2008

전통적인 알칼리 추출액인 콩대 잿물과 탄산칼륨수용액을 사용하여 홍색소를 추출하고 면, 마, 레이온, 견, 모, 그리고 나일론 직물에 염색하였다. 염색한 직물의 표면반사율과 염착량, 표면색을 측정하여 추출용제에 따른 차이를 비교 하였으며, 염색견뢰도를 평가하여 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 1. 면, 마, 레이온, 그리고 견직물의 표면반사율 곡선은 추출용제에 따라 거의 같은 형태를 보였으며 최대흡수파장은 520nm에서 나타났다. 모와 나일론의 표면반사율 곡선형태는 추출용제간에 차이를 보였으며 최대흡수파장은 400nm에서 나타났다. 그리고 최대흡수파장 이외에 모는 520nm, 나일론은 540nm 파장부근에서 흡수대를 보였다. 2. 면, 마, 레이온, 견의 염착량은 잿물로 추출한 경우에 약간 더 높았으며, 모는 추출용매에 상관없이 비슷한 염착량을 보였고, 나일론은 탄산칼륨으로 추출한 경우에 약간 더 높게 나타났다. 3. 나일론 직물의 $L^{*}$값과 레이온의 $b^{*}$값을 제외하고는 탄산칼륨으로 추출하여 염색한 직물의 $L^{*},\;a^{*},\;b^{*}$, 그리고 $C^{*}$ 값이 잿물 추출에서 보다 더 높게 나타났다. 단 $a^{*},\;b^{*},\;C^{*}$ 값은 모와 나일론을 제외하고는 추출용제간의 차이가 매우 미비하였다. 잿물과 탄산칼륨 추출액으로 염색한 직물의 색차는 면, 견, 마, 레이온, 모직물, 그리고 나일론 순으로 크게 나타났다. 4. 잿물과 탄산칼륨수용액 추출에 의한 색상계열 차이는 나타나지 않았으며, 면, 레이온, 나일론은 RP계열, 마와 견은 R계열, 그리고 모는 YR계열로 나타났다. 나일론을 제외하고는 탄산칼륨수용액으로 추출한 경우에 더 밝고 선명한 색상으로 염색되었다. 5. 추출용제에 따른 세탁견뢰도에는 차이가 없었으며, 나일론, 레이온, 그리고 면과 마의 순으로 우수하였고 이염도 거의 나타나지 않았다. 견과 모의 드라이클리닝 견뢰도도 매우 우수하였다. 일광견뢰도도 추출용제에 따른 차이를 보이지 않았으나, 매우 낮게 나타났다. 6. 색상과 견뢰도 등에 큰 차이가 없으므로 전통적인 잿물 대신 탄산칼륨수용액을 추출용제로 사용하는 것이 색의 재현성이나 공정상의 측면에서 색의 표준화연구에 더 효율적인 방법이라 사료된다.