• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.5 no.6
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• pp.146-151
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• 2005

The coral is precious and organic gemstone. It is Beautifully Red color. Coral jewelry have been used for a long time in Asia. Especially in Korea, The Coral is an traditional and popular gemstone. It is significant to get the base data for the purpose of distinguishing natural coral from imitation coral by comparing about gemmological character in this study. Color, luster, transparency, streak color, refractive index, hardness, chemical reaction, ultraviolet fluorescence, specific gravity, observation of microscope and XRD analysis were conducted for identification of natural and imitation coral. As a result, natural coral has usually $CaCO_3$ composition and calcite structure. But, it is known that imitation coral impregnate calcic and dyeing materials with pigment. And they were distinguished also from not only XRD analysis but also a few simple experiments like specific gravity, refractive index and chemical reaction. Natural coral is harder and luster then imitation coral. In breaking method, the streak color is used certification.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.9-15
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• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.45-53
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• 2004

Natural dyes have poor colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the dyed fabric to sunlight encountered during the display or wearing. As colors on fabrics fade excessively under sunlight, it is a problem to infer and restore the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics to original colors. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to color change under light. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Weather-O-meter was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to light for 2.5 to 450 hours. The process of color changes in the CIEL *A*B* color-order system to the exposure time were determined by spectrophotometer at 10$^{\circ}$ observer. Sunlight exposure caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the type of dye used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc.) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to light. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to fading in both exposure except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in fading, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.57-72
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• 2012

Interest in the environment is rising in all the sectors of industry and culture. Even in the fashion industry, fashion designers have recently begun delivering messages on the environment. In particular, $Issey$ $Miyake$ has been constantly interested in environmental issues, and has been deemed as a designer who values practicality and universality in clothing. This study seeks to examine Issey Miyake's fashion from the perspective of an eco-friendly design. This research analyzed collections of $Issey$ $Miyake$ from 1980 to 2010 through photo works and www.firstview.com. The research method was to study 8 people who have professionalism in fashion design and have analyzed 201 works of $Issey$ $Miyake$ from 1980s to 2000s that have the characteristics of eco-friendly design. The results showed the following characteristics of eco-friendly design in Issey Miyake's fashion : naturality, simplicity, sustainability and transformability. First, $Issey$ $Miyake$ preferred natural materials and used Japan traditional dyeing that integrated modern techniques for naturality. Second, he expressed simplicity in his fashion by applying the least cutting and sewing in geometric panels. Third, he pursued sustainability with comfortable clothing that anyone could wear regardless of trend, age and body shape. Finally, he developed the A-POC system that eliminated the usual needs for cutting and sewing and tried transformability on clothing using buttons, strings, belts, zippers, and layered styling.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.139-148
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• 2010

This study was conducted to restore our traditional Cheongtaejeon tea and to develop the special products. We inoculated Cheongtaejeon tea with lactobacilli (Lactobacillus plantarum CHO 25) and the mixed microbial strains (L. plantarum CHO 25 + Saccharomyces cerevisiae + Bacillus amyloliquefaciens CHO 104). We also examined the sensuous characteristics and physiological activity of Cheongtaejeon tea which was produced by the inoculation of microbial strains. The external appearance of Cheongtaejeon teas were not significant among the teas which were produced with or without the inoculation of L. plantarum CHO 25 and the mixed microbial strains. The taste of the tea increased most in Cheongtaejeon tea which was produced without the inoculation of microbial strains. The taste and liking of Cheongtaejeon tea which was inoculated with Aspergillus oryzae and Aspergillus niger decreased significantly, and it was not suitable to drink. Total phenolics compound contents, total flavonoid contents and DPPH ($\alpha,\alpha$-diphenyl-$\beta$-picryl-hydrazyl) radical scavenging activity of Cheongtaejeon tea extracts increased much more in the order of that produced with the inoculation of L. plantarum CHO 25, control and that with the mixed microbial strains. However, nitrite radical scavenging activity in 1,000 mg/L Cheongtaejeon tea hot water extracts were in the order of the control (94.4%), the inoculation of L. plantarum CHO 25 (93.6%) and the mixed microbial strains (91.1%). Overall results indicated that the sensuous characteristics increased most in Cheongtaejeon tea which was produced without the inoculation of microbial strains, and those physiological activities in tea with the inoculation of L. plantarum CHO 25.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.408-415
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• 2013

In order to evaluate a feasibility of industrial art use of veneer such as cylindrical laminated veneer lumber, the veneers of 4 species of Korean pine, radiata pine, yellow poplar and Japanese cypress were natural dye-colored and clear finished. Natural dyes were red color originated from sappanwood, blue color from polygonum indigo, and yellow color from Amur cork tree and gardenia. the clear coats of crack seal clear and UV protection oil were applied on the dyed veneer. The dyeing and finishing characteristics through fading test were summarized as follows; In non-dyed and non-finished Korean pine veneer, lightness was decreased and yellow and red hues increased after fading test. In natural dyed- and finished-veneer, color difference of gardenia-mixed Amur cork tree was generally highest, and that of polygonum indigo was lowest. Compared to non-treatment of veneers of Korean pine and yellow poplar, color difference decreasing effect by finishing was shown in crack seal clear and UV protection oil. In addition, UV protection oil was more favorable than crack seal clear with more decreased color difference. In result, maximum values of color difference after fading for 8 days were recorded about 16 to 20, which are remarked 'very much' of 12.1 or more when reviewing with 'National bureau of standards unit in USA'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.471-482
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• 2016

This study investigated the characteristics of cotton production of Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Yeongsan River compared with that of Gurye-gun, Seomjingang River in modern times. To do this, research method was both literature and fieldwork research, results were as follows. First, as for cotton fiber cultivation in Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Chinese cotton (在來綿) has been cultivated during Japanese Colonial era unlike Gurye-gun. Especially, Yellow cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in Hwasungun. Second, as for spinning in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun, some of cotton spinning process have been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool since Japanese colonial era. Third, the loom types also, like spinning tools, have been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in Damyang-gun, Hwasungun and Gurye-gun. Chemical dyeing with chemical dyestuff also has been done since Japanese Colonial era. Fourth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton production have been reduced in both Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun. For Damyang-gun, this has been connected with bamboo craft since the Joseon Dynasty period. So, Damyang-gun has more concentrated on bamboo craft than cotton production. For Hwasun-gun, since Japanese Colonial era, sericulture has been very important. So, Hwasun-gun also has more concentrated on sericulture than cotton production. The main reason to discontinue cotton production in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun was related to the local choice like economic added value.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.450-470
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• 2018

This study examined the risk components and risk types perceived in the context of purchasing decisions of paper fashion products. This study also identified the levels of perceived risk by consumers and the differences between age groups in risk perception. First, qualitative data were collected through a focus group interview with 7 Korean females in their 20s to 50s. The interviewees were presented with two types of paper materials (undyed and dyed Jumchi-Hanji) and products (bags and wallets) made with the papers. The interviewees mentioned 11 risk components which were classified into five types of risks: performance (easily torn/lack of durableness, lint/pilling/wear-out, lack of water-resistant, no washability, and deformation and discoloration over time), social-psychological (old and traditional image), aesthetic (lack of design diversity, unsatisfactory appearance due to repair), financial (expensive price, lack of usability in daily life) and time/convenience (difficulty in handling) risks. Based on the results of the interview, a measurement for evaluating the risk perception of paper fashion products was developed. Second, quantitative data were collected from 64 Korean women in their 20s to 50s using the measurement. Respondents who were presented with the paper materials and the products perceived the performance risk more strongly than the social-psychological risk and aesthetic risk. In addition, differences between age groups were found: younger respondents perceived performance risk and social-psychological risk more strongly than older respondents, but older respondents perceived financial risk more than younger respondents. Based on this study, strategies for the risk reduction of paper fashion products were proposed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.753-766
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the cases of the family head's costume culture and to apply them to field experience education of adolescent's home economics subject. To examine the family head's costume culture, women in the family head in the Hampyeong area, Jeollanam-do were selected and interviewed. The focus of examining the family head's costume culture was on the life story of the family head, the reason to wear or possess such costume, and a motive of making. The findings of the head family's costume culture suggests that the head family of the Mos of Hampyeong had unique shroud making and custom. Also it was found that the eldest daughters-in-law of the Lees of Hampyeong have horizontally exchanged the information of the family head's costume with village women of the same family. They have initiated their costume culture directly through their daughters and it had the great influence on after-ages. The learning program for youth to experience the head family's costume culture consisted of four subjects:(l)Educating the family head's traditional living culture including etiquette training, (2)head family village walk, (3)experiencing the family head's clothes life including natural dyeing and sewing, and (4)a field trip of Hampyeong Local Life Culture Museum. For a model experience of the family head's costume life culture, three families with middle and high schoolers participated in 8- hour experience learning program. To examine the effect of learning program to experience the family head's costume culture, youth and their parents who participated in the program were asked open-ended questions, which included the content validity of experience learning, impressive experience, model experience level(difficulty), and expected effect after a model experience. As a result, their responses were found positive.