• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.62-68
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• 1999

The study has examined about the origin and change of traditional Japanese dress "Kosode" and classified it according to its ages and also classified its patterns which appeared on the Kosode by its kinds, and divide the patterns with constituent method and expressional method and so, studied and analyzed them with type of patterns according to the change of the times. The result of research were as follows: 1. Subject of patterns that appeared on the Kosode was used with mainly plant pattern, animals pattern, pictorial pattern, artificial pattern, and abstract patterns. 2. Expressional method of this patterns was mostly expressed simply with tie dyeing in ancient times, but it changed complex its expressional method and diversely due to the development of common's culture as time goes on. 3. For the arrangement of its pattern were arranged regularly mostly make demarcate and though they are as if seemed dispersed, but a characteristic that can find regulations in it. 4. Transition of patterns that appeared on the Kosode it developed at the beginning of ancient syouboon, Katasuso pattern and Katamigaori patterns at the samurai's society in the medieval society and developed to Koicho kosode and Kambun kosode in modern times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.180-199
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• 2021

This study investigated natural aroma fragrance on the fashion image of Galchon, a traditional natural dyeing textile made with immature persimmon from the Jeju area, Korea. Nine fabric pairs consisting of differently colored cotton and silk Galchon with various tones and fabric types were used for subjective evaluation. Thirty five female college students evaluated the specimens using a 7-point scale questionnaire for fashion image-related adjectives. A specimen with three different presentation types that included fabric without fragrance (FO), fabric with citrus fragrance, and fabric with chamaecyparis (FCP) were randomly provided to a subject. As a result, color variables of Galchon were found to be the primary influence on fashion images for both cotton and silk Galchon that showed interaction effects with presentation types. The citrus fragrance increased the feeling of 'Active' while chamaecyparis tended to contribute to a stronger perception of 'Elegance' for cotton Galchon. Finally, these results were used to develop prediction models for fashion images of Galchon that employed color variables and presentation types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.33-48
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• 2022

This study was performed to compare the color emotion and preference of Koreans and Chinese for a two-color combination by dyeing cotton fabric with persimmon and indigo and to establish prediction models of color preference. Nine specimens prepared by combining two different colored fabrics (persimmon and indigo) were evaluated for color emotion and preference by Korean and Chinese groups of female college students. Koreans described most specimens as natural and traditional, whereas the Chinese described them as more pleasant and elegant as well as warmer and lighter than Koreans did. The contrast tone was the most preferred combination by both groups, whereas it was perceived as more modern and less warm by Koreans. Relationships between physical color variables and color emotions were quantified; these relationships were applied to establish a prediction model of color preference with tone combination types for each group. These results could help in making the design of fashion textiles more preference- and emotion-oriented for Korean and Chinese consumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.125-137
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• 2012

This study examines the stage costumes of the creative musical 'Hyecho', which was performed six times in the Chung Ang Art Center hosted by Chung-Ang University's performance & media agency from December 20 to 22 in 2006. The stage costumes were made based on these basic design elements of stage costumes that were dyed : line, silhouette, material, and color. First, the creative musical 'Hyecho' presents a new form of fusion theatre, which blends Korean traditional music and dance with videos. Thereby, the musical has opened a new phase in Korea's creative performing arts. Second, in musical performances that combines dance and songs, stage costumes should be made not only to attract the audience's eyes, but also not to interrupt actors' vocalizations and movements by taking their physical features into account. Also, costumes should be made in consideration of their relationships with visual elements, including stage settings and lighting. Third, the musical features fusion-style stage costumes, which combines Hanbok, the Korean traditional costume, and Indian traditional costumes with modern costumes. For the line and silhouette, costumes show the beauty of curves through the curves of Hanbok and India's traditional costumes and also through irregular pleats of pants. Also, by using cotton materials, which is easy to dye and not readily deformed, costumes feature colors that are found in nature through a gradation dyeing technique. In doing so, it offers visual amusement to the audience by making stage costumes look like a beautiful painting. Fourth, the stage costumes of the chorus feature costumes that use lining and pleated skirts using belts, and various accessories, including necklaces that use strings in order to express evil spirits. Since there is not much time to change costumes during a performance, using such items are helpful to show the unique characteristics of actors effectively during the limited time. Also, coordinating with the lighting director allows the costume designer to make better costumes for the chorus and make the performance more dramatic. Finally, it was not necessary to wash the costumes of the chorus of the fusion musical Hyecho 2006 since it was performed only six times. However, when using dyed costumes for the long-term performance, it might cause problems such as bleaching that result from the washing of costumes and low durability that can result in the deformation of costumes. As performing arts are made in various forms and are diversified, it is needed for stage costumes to change accordingly through new attempts and various ways of expression.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.6
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• pp.81-99
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• 2004

For making something to use as a tool since the emergence of mankind, the initial pragmatic purpose has transformed into a new genre of art over time. Things defined like this have rooted in our culture as tradition so far. In the midst of today's various trends, a reflection of tradition and a modern search for tradition by re-creating it are much more needed. To any people in any time, a new trend would undeniably develop on the basis of its previous tradition in any form. The colors appearing in such artwork are also an expression of each people's unconscious potentiality as essential grounds for human aesthetic. The traditional Korean Bojaki, which was made out of women's pragmatic mind trying to recycle trashy pieces of cloth in the 19th century of Chosun Dynasty, appears as a symbolization of our nation's original form in unconsciousness. It includes Confucianism, Buddhism, Zen and the Yin-Yang and Five Elements thought, which have been together with naturalism. The five colors appearing in the Yin-Yang and Five Elements are the basis. Fourteen selected samples around the five colors seen in the color scheme of the Chosun era's Bojaki were measured and their color values were found by analyzing them based on HCV(Hue, Chroma, Value)of the five primary colors as well as the five secondary colors. After choosing a few colors with bare eyes close to traditional Primary Colors and Secondary Colors amongst 14 pieces of data which particularly used traditional Five Colors and examining them using spectrophotometer(JX777), the following conclusions were drawn. Comparing only colors in Primary Colors, the result was red 7.11R 4.59/10.69, blue 6.71PB 3.18/6.45, yellow 3.91Y 7.56/6.12, respectively. With regard to Secondary Colors, it was reported that red 7.96RP 5.42/10.3, blue 7.8B 5.16/5.53, green 8.03GY 6.05/4.34, yellow 2.73Y 7.47/4.07, purple 2.39RP 4.69/4.56, respectively. (diagram) As a result, the standard of Five Colors can be used in modern fiber color. There are differences in dyeing material, methods and kinds of fiber of that time, but women of Chosun Dynasty combined and made fabric which was circulated. Consequently, an applicable attribute of the aye-color values was considered.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.32
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• pp.5-24
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• 2011

Neunghwaji(Embossed patterned paper) is a unique paper used for a traditional book cover in Korea. The research was carried out to investigate Neunghwaji's features. Physical property was studied through a test of tensile strength and folding endurance. Also, comparative analysis of virus resistance and waterproof ability was undertaken on Neunghwaji. 1. Folding endurance test showed that strength of non-embossed CB and HB decreased during deteriorating duration. Embossed CN and HN showed the strength increasing at early stage and decreasing from the 27th day of the deteriorating duration. Tensile strength was decreasing in both cases as deterioration progressed. 2. Growth of Arthrinium sp. fungus on embossed paper was 10% less than plain paper while Cladosporium sp. showed 20~30% less growth. Amur cork dyeing(H) showed 10~30% lower fungi growth than Gardenia seed dyeing(C). The result indicated that embossed paper has better virus resistance than Hanji, and Amur cork dyeing has better virus resistance than Gardenia seed dyeing. 3. Average contact angle of CN, CB, HN, and HB was $85{\sim}92^{\circ}$ and NON-N and NON-B was $59{\sim}63^{\circ}$. In detail, CN's contact angle was $1{\sim}7^{\circ}$ higher than CB's; HN was $1{\sim}6^{\circ}$ higher than HB. Therefore, it was found that embossed paper has higher contact angle than Hanji thus the former has better waterproof ability. The research suggested production technique of Neunghwaji and studied its features related to the technique. Neunghwaji was confirmed to have superior quality to Hanji though further study regarding above test result is needed to complement the research.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.716-721
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• 2007

This study was conducted to obtain the basic data on the development of resources of wild edible greens, and the industrialization of the marketing of fresh wild vegetables. We have also investigated the distributing factors at five-day traditional markets (Taebaek, Hongcheon and Hoengseong) in Gangwon district, and in Jeonnam district (Naju, Damyang and Jangseong), in May and June 2007. At each market, there were 34 to 49 diverse shops selling fresh wild vegetables except at Naju, where there were 22 shops. Between 27 to 29 kinds of fresh wild vegetable were on sale at the traditional markets in Gangwon district, and 15 to 19 kinds were on sale along with many horticultural plants in Jeonnam district. Fresh wild vegetables including Aster scaber, Petasites japonicus, Pteridium aquilinum var. latussculum, Malva verticillata, leaves of Perilla frutescens, Lactuca sativa, leaves of Capsicum annuum, and Oenanthe javanica were on sale in the markets in both districts. Those selling fresh wild vegetables were typically over 51 years of age (88%), and among these over 66.4% were over 61 years old. Less than 6 kinds of fresh wild vegetable accounted for over 72.1% of the vegetables sold. Edible wild greens were mainly packed in vinyl bags (over 77%).

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.321-328
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• 2012

A $SO_2$ gas acceleration test was carried out on four textile groups (silk, cotton, ramie cloth, hemp cloth) which were categoried in five categories by the dyeing materials (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black) and the relation between the concentration of $SO_2$ and deterioration rate was evaluated. The textiles were exposed to 0.01, 0.12, 1, 10, 100, 1000, and 5000 ppm of $SO_2$ for 24 hours and the optical, physical, and chemical deterioration rates were studied. An optical change was identified as the color difference and grey scale rating (colorfastness) enhanced with the increase of gas concentration while there was little physical change. Chemical damage was caused by the acidification of the textile material due to the trapped sulfate ion concentration. The result of optical, physical, and chemical deterioration rates shows that 1 ppm/day $SO_2$ is a critical level of deterioration of traditional textiles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.844-859
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• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.55-61
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• 2008

This study was conducted to compare the nutrient and chemical contents of traditional Chungtaejeon tea with that of green tea which was harvested in Jangheung, Jeonnam district. Vitamin C, amino acids and total nitrogen contents of Chungtaejeon tea were lower than that of green tea by 0.30, 2.30 and 4.20g/100g, respectively. The tannin, caffeine, reducing sugar and chlorophyll contents in Chungtaejeon tea were the same as those in green tea. Comparing catechin contents, catechin (C), epicatechin (EC), and epigallocatechin (EGC) in Chungtaejeon tea were lower than those of green tea. However, gallocatechin (GC), epicatechin gallate (ECG), epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) and catechin gallate (CG) showed no significant difference between Chungtaejeon tea and green tea. The flavonoid contents of Chungtaejeon tea and green tea showed higher quercetin and kaempferol contents in green tea, and higher myricetin content in Chungtaejeon tea. The measured amino acid contents for threonine and aspartic acid were lower, and for glutamic acid were higher in Chungtaejeon tea compared with those in green tea. However, free amino acid content in Chungtaejeon tea and green tea showed no significant difference. Potassium and magnesium contents in Chungtaejeon tea were lower compared to green tea but no significant difference was found for iron, manganese or calcium contents when comparing the two teas.