• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.129-141
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• 2007

In the cultural realm of Hinduism centering around India, traditional costumes such as Sari, and Dhoti are worn up to date under the influence of religious faith, tradition, and fundamentalism. The purpose of this study is to clarify the religious meaning of unstitched traditional Indian costume and inquire into the figurative beauty of it. This study revolved around India, and the aesthetic feature affected by hinduism was examined based on the literature references and the figurative feature and aesthetic value of unstitched costume were analyzed. The most important feature of Indian costume is the unstitched costume without joining pieces of cloth by using a needle and thread, symbolizing the purity based on the cosmology of Hindu. In the unstitched costume of India, natural drapery that is the large cloth, slipped or tied on body, wrapping it affluently, is emphasized. Unstitched costume of India, based on cosmology of Hindu and the concept of purity, is still broadly worn by people under the influence of fundamentalism and conservative atmosphere. Religious idea is expressed and a beauty of concealment, emphasizing the chastity, is shown in the unstitched costume of India, while a beauty of nature is distinctively revealed in the non-structural and asymmetric drapery costume due to the unique wearing style. In addition, 'A beauty of symbolism' appears in the wearing method, color, the part of wearing, and ornament. Religion has affected overall culture that is inclusive art, aesthetics, and social structure and has contributed to the formulation of costume style. Unstitched costume of India is the unique tradition of India and identity, based on the religious idea.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.941-955
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• 2003

In this study, the researcher investigated how tailored garment were accepted and developed in India where the traditional costumes, such as Sari and Dhothi, excluding the tailored process, were mainly worn. It is suspected that pants and coats were first introduced during the Kushan Dynasty but they scarcely influenced on the costumes of India. In the 7th Century when Islam made its entrance in India, pants and coats were not accepted in India due to the exclusive attitudes of Indians, Hindu. Pants and coats were worn locally as Indian costumes through the Islamic Mughul Empire in the 16th Century. During that period, the cultural exchange between Islam and Hindu made the change of the clothes of India reflected the mixing of Islamic and Hindu elements. The colonization of India by Great Britain that was the turning point for diverse kinds of tailored garment in the costume history of India inasmuch as western elements were introduced. The western style tailored method and design changed the appearance of Indian pants into slimmer style. The style spread and influenced on the design of indian clothes greatly; hence, western style shirts and coats were accepted in India.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.392-402
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• 2012

The norm for everyday costume in India and Indonesia had consisted of either draped garments or loincloths. However, as the Islamic values spread in these countries various tailored clothes began to be worn. In order to study this spread of tailored clothes, the researcher first looked at the historical background which was the origin of Islamic costumes and its unique traits through the works of literature. Based on these findings, the researcher tried to identify the Islamic elements in the costumes of India and Indonesia. The researcher put forward the following conclusion: In India, people began to wear Islamic costumes after the establishment of Mughul Empire (1526~1857) in the 16th century, despite the Islamic invasion in the early 8th century. The pants that the ruling class of Islam wore such as shalwar, churidar and coats in the style of kaftan as well as turban spread quickly throughout the nation and now they are important part of Indian traditional costumes. Also in Indonesia, people began to wear tailored clothes as they accepted Islamic faith. The Indonesian costumes which exposed the upper body part may have been suitable for the climate but it was inappropriate according to the Islamic precepts. The religious beliefs led to the creation of the unique Indonesian sarong, wraps such as kain panjang and a new type of traditional costumes that combined the elements of pants or tunic from the Islamic culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.677-688
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to find out the symbolism of religious costume which has showed the religious belief system through costume practice and culture. Indian Religious costume each has its own mark was investigated in this study. In India, religion is a way of life. It is an integral part of the entire Indian tradition. The results were as follows; India's several main religions are Hinduism(About 80% of population) , Islam (About 11% of population) , Sikhism(less than 2% of population) , Jainism(less than 1% of population) , Buddhism(less than 1% of population) and Christianity(About 3% of population but excluding here) Religious faith system which symbolized Godhood, spiritualty, ascetics, restraint, chastity, sacred and dignity gave a certain shape to each color, ornaments, dressing and marking of religion costume. In connection with religion costumes, there were Hindu's Tika, sacred ash, long hair, knot and holy band (Yajnopavita) , Buddhist's kayysa and tonsures, Jams' no covering, Muslim's chador and skullcap, Sikh's turban (with no cutting hair) , comb, steel bracelet, drawers, sword or dagger. The characteristics, head especially of thebody and white in the colors were made much account for India religion costume. Traditional costume seems to be worn at the present times in India. But apparently these costume associated with religion costume because of Hindu more than 80% of population.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.299-320
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• 2024

Traditional culture contributes to the diversification of modern fashion design and the inheritance of local cultural identity. This study aims to identify the characteristics of traditional handicrafts reflected in modern fashion design in India. For this purpose, it focused on Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Malhotra, and Ritu Kumar, who are currently leading the Indian fashion design field. The methodology involved conducting literature research and analyzing case studies. In the literature, the techniques of Indian traditional crafts such as embroidery, dyeing, and weaving were examined and five design elements of traditional crafts were defined. Through content analysis of 30 images from the three designers' Instagram accounts, the design characteristics of traditional handicrafts expressed in contemporary Indian fashion design were derived: cultural inheritance using traditional Indian clothing items, traditional materials and practices applied to contemporary clothing, craftsmanship that artistically improves complex details using embroidery techniques, various combinations based on the traditional meaning of colors, and narrative expression using patterns containing India's cultural identity. Incorporating these traditional handicrafts into fashion design, closely linked to everyday life, aids in conveying and enhancing their significance. The cases demonstrate the successful integration of conservation into contemporary fashion design. This study sheds light on the application of traditional culture in modern fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.4
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• pp.109-123
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• 2015

The object of this research is to take a bilateral look into cultural exchanges of the Netherlands and Japan through the East India Company and thereby improve the general understanding in regards to the exchanges of costume cultures between the East and the West. The study conducted qualitative analyses on features of contemporary costumes of the Netherlands and Japan from 1602 to 1799 by investigating the secondary sources, such as the histories of costumes, arts, and literature. The results are as follows; the traditional sleeves of the Japanese Kimono were basically cut out in a straight line. However due to the growing popularity of the kimono home gown in Europe, the producers of the kimono in India as well as several other European countries modified them into western-style sleeves. Regarding the costumes of the Netherlands, which were introduced to Japan, the study found that Japan imported Dutch fabrics, instead of specific clothing items. In Japan, costume controls and anti-conspicuous consumption regulations among social classes including a closed-door policy had negative effects on both developments and exchanges of costumes of the country. However, when it comes to the Jinbaori, a costume for ruling classes, Japan was open to using fabrics, patterns and designs of the West. In light of what have been discussed so far, the study confirmed that the costume exchanges between the two countries started long after their first business of the general cultural exchanges. Though it is clear that the advancements in the natural sciences that the Japanese made can be attributed to the West, Japan was one of the nations that impacted the costume cultures in Europe.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.99-112
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to study India's traditional embroidery method, Mirror Work, and to evaluate the examples of contemporary costumes as well as the applications of art to clothing that have been influenced by this technique, in order to expand its usage for creation of a new fashion image. Research in the literature and application of works related to Mirror Work have demonstrated: First of all, as a traditional embroidery method that represents the folk art of India, Mirror Work displays unique methods used in different regions and the way that various methods and materials were combined by the use of mirrors, beads, and $appliqu{\acute{e}}$. Secondly, it was found that the presentation of Mirror Work in the $pr{\hat{e}}t$-a-porte collection is based on a traditional embroidery method using both developed materials and adapted methods to express traditional reproducibility, geometric simplicity, and aesthetic characteristics of complex decorations. Thirdly, new plasticity for art to wear clothing can be created through various methods aside from embroidery, for example by a technique of wrapping crochet laces and tapes around the mirror for decorative purposes. Based on these results it can be inferred that, from the perspective of multiple forms for decorations, Mirror Work shares multiple forms of personal aesthetic goals through the mirror's unique quality for expression and enhanced images of artistic decorative art. Also, the introduction of traditional materials and methods for today's folk art and traditional costumes can be the subject of unique aesthetic characteristics based on different perspectives of the recreation of tradition. Finally, it can further create a new plasticity within the globalization phenomena.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.1-4
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• 2010

The hand printed cottons of India are historically world-renowned for their rich fast colours, elaborate designs, and matchless quality. Until the discovery of synthetic dyestuffs in the latter part of the nineteenth century, the unsurpassed master dyers of cotton were the craftsmen of India-birthplace of cultivated cotton. The Indian printers and dyers monopolised this arcane art of permeating cotton cloth with richly hued, colour-fast designs, and the fruits of their labour proved hugely influential in international trade and the development of modern textile technologies. This paper focuses on a lesser-known body of hand printed cottons, traditionally produced in rural Rajasthan for everyday use by the local pastoral communities. Drawing on extensive research carried out with the region's Chhipa community of hereditary cloth printers, the complex and multiple applications of mordant, dye and resist are illustrated. Often taking months to complete, the enduring popularity of these labour-intensive hand printed cottons is then discussed, particularly in the light of the hugesocial importance borne by cloth in Rajasthan. Cloth and clothing are widely recognised as indicators of social status, gender, rank, and individual and group affiliations. In addition, cloth and clothing have been established as indicators of social, economic, political and technological change. The paper concludes by drawing attention to the recent influx of machine-printed polyester textiles, often replicating the designs or colours of the traditional locally produced cottons. Thus women of the region, whilst using these modern synthetic textiles as part of newer ways of expressing their identity, also visibly retain the values associated with hand printed cottons and traditional dress codes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.127-142
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• 2006

In this study, I have analyzed Indian traditional clothing in fashion design of 21st century by comparing 1,286 fashion items designed by Indian designers and 722 Western fashion items, which were presented from 2000 S/S to 2005 F/W Formal analysis were made for change in how to wear clothes, and change in items and ornaments. Change of traditional clothing was found in two ways; Western elements added to Indian tradition and Indian traditional image adopted in Western clothing. First, Indian traditional elements added to Western clothing in the formal aspect was found in 83% of Western collections and 27.2% of the Indian designers' collections. In Indian designers' collections, traditional clothing form takes 72.8%, which shows the regional characteristics of India where the traditional clothing is still adhered to in daily life especially by women. Second, from the fashion design of the Indian designers, we can find modernization of sari, change of traditional items into more active and modern way by adding Western clothing; change of form, color and material of traditional items in various ways; and decorative aspects highlighted by adding Indian traditional color, pattern or decoration into Western clothing. In most cases, Western collections are seasoned with Indian traditional image, rather than utilizing the form of Indian clothing. Although adopting the farm of Indian traditional clothing, it can be considered as a translation from the viewpoint of the West. Third, Indian look is expressed in various ways by reproducing Indian traditional ornaments such as earings, bracelets and henna, or by adopting Indian traditional fabric design and decoration in mufflers, bags and etc.

• Smart Media Journal
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• v.12 no.11
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• pp.125-133
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• 2023

Traditional attire has assumed a pivotal role within the contemporary fashion industry. The objective of this study is to construct a computer vision model tailored to the recognition of traditional costumes originating from five distinct countries, namely India, Korea, Japan, Tanzania, and Vietnam. Leveraging a dataset comprising 1,608 images, we proceeded to train the cutting-edge computer vision model YOLOv8. The model yielded an impressive overall mean average precision (MAP) of 96%. Notably, the Indian sari exhibited a remarkable MAP of 99%, the Tanzanian kitenge 98%, the Japanese kimono 92%, the Korean hanbok 89%, and the Vietnamese ao dai 83%. Furthermore, the model demonstrated a commendable overall box precision score of 94.7% and a recall rate of 84.3%. Within the realm of the fashion industry, this model possesses considerable utility for trend projection and the facilitation of personalized recommendation systems.