• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.121-132
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to analyze the Korean Formative-Artistic Characteristics which were expressed by Hanbok designers. In this research, Hanbok style is a combination of two main things: formative-artistic factors of the Korean past, which naturally focuses on the peculiarity of the tradition and the modern aspects of clothing. Hanbok fashion is defined as all products created by Hanbok designers that incorporate traditional design factors, but do not follow it exactly. There are four formative-artistic characteristics of Korean designs in the Hanbok fashion. The first is the practical usage of the form and the second is the application of texture, color and patterns of materials which are synonymous with traditional Korean costumes; the third, by utilizing specific features, such as a the string of Jeogori(jacket), the round line of Jeogori sleeve, quilting, slit of Dofo (coat), the line of goreum and git (collar), the beauty of the Hanbok can be expressed in various ways; finally, the decorations added to the clothing, like embroidery, dying, patchwork, and beaten silver have been used to express Korean beauty in a modern sense. At the conclusion of the research, the study suggests the following recommendations to upgrade the Hanbok designs and the Hanbok industry. The first recommendation is that continuous design research be done for the development and popularity of the brand image; secondly, collaboration with specialists from other areas of fashion would be beneficial; thirdly, it would be a positive development if Hanbok designers studied Western clothing; and fourthly, Hanbok materials should continue to evolve and be developed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.123-137
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is contemplating and substantiating Korean Empire's court costume through relics and photos. Additionally, the meaning of the pattern of Mugunghwa as the national symbol in the court costume is considered. The results of this study are following. First, a phased introduction of western-style court costume was executed through Ulmi Reformation in 1895 and Court Costume Rule in 1900. U1mi Reformation was characterized by transitional reformation because newly introduced system and traditional costume consolidated in costume. Under Court Costume Rule, however, by accepting western-style on contemporary costume, modernized style was settled in every respect of form and matter. The court costume comprised bicorn, coat, vest, pantaloon, sword, sword belt, white collar and white gloves at audience with the Emperor. Second, by examination of the relics of Chigimgwan and Juimgwan, it was confirmed that the court costume was manufactured in foreign countries such as France and Russia on the basis of order. It was also identified by pictures that court costume was worn by diplomats dispatched. Third, the pattern of Mugunghwa in court costume was featured by embroidery of 6 petal pattern. And the pattern of Mugunghwa, as national symbol, has important meaning in view of history and national affection, while Japanese and European adopted the crest of the royal household. In summary, Korean Empire proclaimed modernized court costume institution to handle international relationship driven by West. It was uneasy reformation in adopting western court costume imported from overseas because its textile and style were completely different from traditional costume. However, the willingness of Korean Empire should be reevaluated in the history of Korean costume, in that Korean Empire established court costume proclaimed its sovereignty domestically and overseas, and that the pattern chosen as national symbol was that of Mugunghwa which is current national flower.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.17-24
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• 2017

Studies were conducted on manufacturing techniques by applying microscopy and conservation treatments on the annals of Joseon dynasty storage box at the National Museum of Korea. The results revealed that lime tree wood(Tilla spp.) was used to make the annals of Joseon dynasty storage box. Lacquering techniques were used to coat the box with a layer of lacquer and bone ash and then cover it with traditional Korean paper. After being covered with traditional Korean paper, more layers were applied in the following sequence: mud ashes, black lacquer, pure lacquer, and black lacquer. Before conservation treatments, some components and lacquer layers were missing in addition wood joint were loose. Therefore, conservation and restoration should be conducted based on the identified wood and by observing the shape of the remaining components.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.302-311
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• 2021

This study uses traditional lacquer techniques to coat the metal surface and evaluates its physical properties to check the applicability of the lacquer coating. For this purpose, a total of six specimens were produced by setting the variation conditions for the number of times (1, 2, 3) and the heating temperature (120℃, 150℃) using SS275 metal(60*60 mm) and 'Wonju lacquer'. For analysis, chromaticity measurements, contact angle/surface energy measurements, Chemical Resistance, and cross-cut tests were used. The analysis showed that the corrosivity was improved and the adhesion of lacquer to the metal surface was excellent. There was no significant change in contact angle/surface energy. Also, there was no significant difference in color. Through this study, it was confirmed that lacquer on metal surfaces improves waterproofing and has a anticorrosion effect. We could also check the proper number of lacquer and heating temperature. Additional physical characteristics such as hardness and wear rate should be studied. It is also necessary to study how lacquer can be painted with a certain thickness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.123-132
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• 2023

The term 'module' is an architectural term. It refers to the components or systems that make up a finished product. As industries develop, modules have become one of the methods that can create diverse and creative designs. Traditional modular fashion design mainly focused on structural methods, such as the combination, assembly, overlap, and arrangement of modules, as well as the tessellation of geometric shapes. However, in this paper, significance lies in exploring the application of shape grammar, a design method in architecture, to fashion design. It aims to search for ways to express three-dimensional designs, derive designs that can be worn and produced, and propose fashion design by applying the rules of shape grammar to the design process. Through this analysis, the paper aims to examine the methods and characteristics of shape grammar. The research method of this paper is as follows. First, by utilizing optimized programs for implementing the modules of shape grammar, it was possible to propose a method for producing modules of shape grammar and suggest module designs. Additionally, effective methods of representation using the Clo 3D program were explored in the design development process. Second, by applying shape grammar to the fashion design process, five-dimensional modular fashion designs were proposed, including a bolero, dress 1, dress 2, setup, and coat. The proposed modular fashion design using shape grammar in this paper provides a rational design process that differentiates itself from traditional modular fashion design. By formalizing the shapes between modules and creating rules, it overcomes the limitations of design that rely on the designer's intuition or sensibility and enables the development of more diverse modular fashion designs. This application of shape grammar in fashion design can provide an important direction in exploring a sustainable fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.1
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• pp.45-63
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• 2014

In the Taenghwa(Buddhist paintings), the clothing habits of the times can be observed since it depicts the lives of people from all walks of life. These 16th century Taenghwas were drawn based on the understanding of the ritual costumes of early Joseon dynasty appearing in works such as oryeui Se-jong-sil-lok; Sejong chronicles and Gyong-guk-Dae-jon. It shows the perception of various types of clothing such as the Myeon-Bok(King's Full Dress), Won-yu-gwan-bok(King's Ceremonial Dress), and Gon-ryong-po(royal robe at work), and describes the early King's Won-yu-gwan-bok in the early Joseon dynasty that equips Bang-sim-gok-ryong(Round Neck Band). Various officials' uniforms and various men's coats are described. From it, one can visually verify the records of Joong-jong-sil-lok; Joongjong chronicles that describes the appearances of various hats and coats. They also tell us that Chang-ot(light outer coat) was worn prior to the 17th century. It also shows us that the ritual costume of women in Koryo was passed down to early Joseon. Also, in regards to the Buddhist priest costumes, the jang-sam's gray color and ga-sa's red color has been passed down until today. The most representative characteristic for clothing materials were horsehair, silk, ramie, hemp, and cotton.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.143-155
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• 2014

This study focuses on Yusam, a military raincoat that was worn during the Joseon Dynasty. The purpose of this study is to review the types and management system of Yusam. Documentary records, paintings and relics were used as research materials. Yusam was recorded as either Yusam(油衫) or Yu-ui(油衣) in writing. It usually looked like a skirt and was worn like a cape, but there were differences in length. Some of them took the form of a short coat with half-sleeves and side slits. Research analysis results of Silrok, Ilseongrok and the archives of the military camp in the later Joseon are as follows: First, Mokyusam and Jiyusam coexisted as military raincoats. Mokyusam was made with cotton and perilla oil, while Jiyusam was made with traditional Korean paper, a cotton edging and perilla oil. Second, the differences between general Yusam and military Yusam include the material of the clothing, the materials for waterproofing, the color, and the manufacturer. Third, each military camp supplied soldiers with hundreds to thousands of Yusam. Military officers and King's guards wore Mokyusam because Mokyusam was higher than Jiyusam. Fourth, soldiers Yusam together with Yujeongeon, Chorip, Galmo, or Hwihang as a hat. Fifth, the higher the rank, the higher the price of Yusam and the longer the term of usage. On the other hand, as the rank got higher, the cost of the supplementary oil rose, while the duration of usage got shorter.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.57-75
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• 2001

Since the Korean economic crisis in 1997, consumers are selecting goods that are more economical and more reasonably priced. Markets for wealthy people, however, have seldom been influenced by economic conditions. Consequently, 'noble marketing' is a new term that marketers should become acquainted with (Kim, 1998). The continuously expanding 'noble market' that generates high profit for marketers needs to be explored, especially the men's wear market. This study adopted a qualitative method (i.e., in-depth interview) with 16 male consumers each. These men who spent more than 3,600,000 won on apparel goods in 2000 and each man had purchased at least one item-suit, jacket, trousers, or coat-from a list of high-priced brands that were selected by the researcher. Findings imply that material or functional benefit of the high-priced apparel were not a critical determinant for choosing the brand. Rather, a socially well-established image for the brand name, especially in terms of psychological/symbolic appeal, played a more important role. This finding supported previous studies. Therefore, for high-priced men s wear, the role of promotion, including advertising or word of mouth, is critical; the image that advertisers should promote is one that characterizes the clothing, and ultimately the wearers, as dignified, legitimate, traditional, and upper class.

• Asian Pacific Journal of Cancer Prevention
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.1591-1597
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• 2015

Background: Korea has experienced rapid economic development in a very short period of time. A mixture of traditional and modern risk factors coexists and the rapid change in non-genetic factors interacts with genetic constituents. With consideration of these unique aspects of Korean society, a large-scale genomic cohort study-the Health Examinees (HEXA) Study-has been conducted to investigate epidemiologic characteristics, genomic features, and gene-environment interactions of major chronic diseases including cancer in the Korean population. Materials and Methods: Following a standardized study protocol, the subjects were prospectively recruited from 38 health examination centers and training hospitals throughout the country. An interview-based questionnaire survey was conducted to collect information on socio-demographic characteristics, medical history, medication usage, family history, lifestyle factors, diet, physical activity, and reproductive factors for women. Various biological specimens (i.e., plasma, serum, buffy coat, blood cells, genomic DNA, and urine) were collected for biorepository according to the standardized protocol. Skilled medical staff also performed physical examinations. Results: Between 2004 and 2013, a total of 167,169 subjects aged 40-69 years were recruited for the HEXA study. Participants are being followed up utilizing active and passive methods. The first wave of active follow-up began in 2012 and it will be continued until 2015. The principal purpose of passive follow-up is based on data linkages with the National Death Certificate, the National Cancer Registry, and the National Health Insurance Claim data. Conclusions: The HEXA study will render an opportunity to investigate biomarkers of early health index and the chronological changes associated with chronic diseases.

• Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.91-98
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• 1999

To select the desirable soybean cultivar for chonggugjang processing, the physicochemical characteristics of raw soybean materials and chonggugjang samples were investigated. Eight soybean varieties including Danyeobkong, Danbaegkong, Kwanankong, Pureunkong, Manlikong, Sinpaldalkong 2, Jinpeumkong and Hwankeumkong were used for experiment. On the basis of quality characteristics of raw materials, such as seed coat weight rate, hydration swelling, and the content of fructose, glucose and sucrose, and chonggugjang, such as hardness, ${\gamma}-glutamyltranspeptidase\;({\gamma}-GTP)$ activity, free amino acid content, and amino type nitrogen content, Sinpaldakong 2 and Danyeobkong were desirable soybean cultivars for high quality chonggugjang processing.