• 제목/요약/키워드: traditional Korean costume

검색결과 992건 처리시간 0.024초

허규 연출 '완판 창극'의 특징과 의의 (The Characteristics and Significance of 'Wanpan Changgeuk' Written by Heogyu)

  • 김기형
    • 공연문화연구
    • /
    • 제20호
    • /
    • pp.5-30
    • /
    • 2010
  • 허규는 80~90년대 창극 연출을 담당하며 왕성한 활동을 전개한 바 있다. 그는 전승 5가 뿐만 아니라 실전 판소리를 창극화 하였으며, 창작 창극 작품도 다수 무대에 선보였다. 특히 '완판 창극'이라는 이름으로 1982년 <흥보전>을 무대에 올린 후 1985년 <적벽가>를 공연함으로써 전승 5가의 창극화 작업을 완결지은 것은 그가 남긴 큰 업적 가운데 하나이다. 허규는 주체적 민족문화의 정립과 한국 전통연희의 창조적 계승 문제에 많은 관심을 기울였던 실천적인 연극인이다. 그는 창극을 한국의 대표적인 공연예술로 정립하고자 노력했다. 창극 작품은 그 연원에 따라, (1)전승 5가의 창극화 (2)실전 7가의 창극화 (3)창작 창극으로 세분해 볼 수 있다. 허규가 연출한 작품에는 이 3가지 유형이 모두 포함되어 있다. 그 가운데 전승 5가를 창극화한 작품이 가장 큰 비중을 차지하고 있다. 허규가 시도한 '완판창극'은 한국의 전통유산 가운데 빼어난 예술적 성과를 거둔 요소들을 집대성하여 무대에 올림으로써, 창극을 한국의 대표적인 공연예술로 정립해 보고자한 것이다. '완판창극'에 나타난 특징은 다음 네 가지로 정리할 수 있다. (1) 전통을 중시하는 연출 태도, (2) 전통연희 요소의 적극적 수용, (3) 격조와 윤리의식의 중시, (4) 해학의 강조와 보조인물의 적극적 활용이 그것이다. 허규가 시도한 '완판창극'은 창극이 성취할 수 있는 예술적 수준의 한 정점을 보여주는 것이다. 판소리 유산을 망라하고 나아가 전통연희를 적극적으로 수용하여, 창극을 한국의 대표적인 공연예술로 정립해 보고자 했던 것이다. 허규는 '완판창극'에서 판소리의 진정성을 그대로 살리려고 노력했으며, 처음부터 끝까지 한 대목도 빠뜨리지 않고 장면화 하려고 했다. '완판창극'의 공연 시간이 4~5시간이나 소요되었다는 것이 그 점을 잘 보여준다. 허규가 완판창극에서 거둔 성과는 이후 창극에 상당한 영향을 끼친 것으로 보인다. 1990년대에 시도된 '완판장막창극'도 그 모태는 허규의 '완판창극'에 두고 있다. 창본을 종합해 내고 판소리의 좋은 점을 모두 보여주고자 하는 의도가 일치한다는 점에서 특히 그러하다. 그렇지만 90년대 '완판장막창극'은 대형 무대화를 지향했으며 화려한 무대장치와 의상 그리고 버라이어티한 요소를 부각시켰다는 점에서 '완판창극'과 대비된다. 허규의 완판창극이 끼친 중요한 영향 가운데 하나는 판소리의 '열린 형식'을 창극의 공연 문법으로 적극 활용했다는 점이다. 허규는 극의 전개 과정에서 필요하다고 판단되면 전통연희의 요소를 적극적으로 수용하여, 극적 표현 영역을 확장하고 작품의 완성도를 높이고자 했다. 이러한 그의 시도는 창극 극작술의 한 방식으로 인식되어, 이후 창극연출에도 지속적으로 영향을 미치고 있다. 요즘 창극은 어떻게 하면 청중들의 호응을 얻을 수 있을까에 관심을 집중하기 때문에, '감동받는 창극' 보다는 '재미있는 창극'을 만드는 일이 중요하다고 생각하는 듯하다. 공연 시간도 최대 2시간을 넘지 않으려고 하며, 관현악 반주를 중시하는 경향을 보여준다. 이런 관점에서는 허규가 '완판창극'을 통해 구현하고자 했던 창극의 지향점은 극복의 대상으로 인식되고 있는 것으로 보인다.

중국 제복의 상징성에 관한 연구 (A study of Symbolics of Chinese Liturgical Vestments)

  • 이선희
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제18권
    • /
    • pp.111-131
    • /
    • 1992
  • This thesis was designed to study Symbolics of Chinese Liturgical Vestments. Chinese who regarded the life of human beings as the combination of heaven and earth considered garments as the traditional product of the movement of nature. Accordingly, they thought human beings are the center of the universe composed by heaven and earth and the chief of all things; therefore man only can utilize clothes to distinguish from all of the colours. This views of clothes led to the development of liturgical vestments esteemed courtesy than anything else, especially the thought of courtesy associated with Conficius who regarded courtesy as the highest things and since then the theory of Five Elements and courtesy were inherited by all the adherents of Conficius. Yin and Yang Five Elements in the liturgical vestments was given absolute symbolics in both formative side and in colourful side. results of research studied in this was can be summed up as follows : 1. The crown of rites was made imitating after the system of head, horn, beard, bread of birds and beasts and that form of crown is front-circ-ular and back-rectangular meant to be towards light and dark. That the upper part of faceplace is black represented the way of heaven and lower part of red symbolized the way of earth. 2. Upper vestment of liturgical rites symbolizes heaven and outskirt represented earth. So front of outskirt is YANG and back is Yin. It is why then are going to harmonize positive and negative making front part three width and back part four width. Therefore, emperor who symbolizes heaven made the subjects recognize high and low and wore Dae-gu(大 ), Kon-bok(袞服), Bel-bok, Chui-bok, and Hyonbok according to the object and position of rites so that he may rule the country based on courtesy. 3. As an accessory of liturgical vestments, Bul, Pae-ok, Su, Dae-dai, Hyok-Dai, Kyu, and Hol were used. Before Bul was used man dressed skirt as the first waist-dress in order to conceal intimate part of the body. Pae-ok, as decoration blended with jade was worn by men of virtue, so men of virtue symbolized morality and virtue by Pae-ok. Su began from Yeok, connected with Pae-su , in Chou-dynasty is said to be originated by practical needs and they are divided into large Su and small su, and maintained as decoration to signify the class positions. Dae-dai did the work as not to loose the liturgical vestments and leather belt hang Bul and Su to begin as the function of practical use are in later years it became decoration to symboliz e the class position. Kyu was a jade used when empeor nominated feudal lords and observe ceremony to God and Hol, was held in hands to record everything not to forget. These Kyu and Hol became to offer courtesy during the time of rites and in later years it became used according to class position rather than practical use. 4. As far as colours are concerned, colours based by five colours according to YIN-YANG Five Elements theory and they were divided into a primary colour and a secondary colours. Primary colours corresponded with the theory of Five Elements each other, Blue, Red, Tellow, White, and Black symbolized ive Elements, five hour space, five directions, and five emperors. Secondary colours contradict with Blue, Red, Yellow, White and Black and another as a primary colour and they are Green, Scaret, Indigo, Violet, Hun colour, Chu colour, and Chi colour. This primary colour was used in liturgical vestments, that is, upper-vestments used black colour. This primary colour was used in liturgical vestments, that is, upper-vestments used black colour as primary colour and outskirt was used Hun colour as secondary colours. Thus symbolism in chinese liturgical vestments mainly began with heaven and earth and corresponded with YIN-YANG Five Elements Scool. They were developed as the scholary theory and Conficius and his followers in the later days and continued up to Min-dynasty.

  • PDF

세기말 현상으로 본 속옷의 겉옷화 현상 (The Vogue about Outwearization of Underwear in a Tendency to the Century-end)

  • 이상례
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제35권
    • /
    • pp.325-341
    • /
    • 1997
  • One of the noticeable trends of female wear in 1990s is the Outwearization of Underwear as it is called 'Lingerie look' This trend meaned 'Exposure Fashion' raised splendidly its head to the whole stage of fashion destrying the tradional concept having divided the fashion between outwear and underwear by Madonna an Americal populer singer showed up in front of the audience wearing the corset-dress as a stage custome. This corset-dress which can not be recognised whether it is underwear or outwear has been diffused into the mass as a fashionable trend re-gardless of any reason; therefore discrimi-nation of wear by space by far that is underwear should have the sstandard telling between private and public sector has been gradually tumbled. By the way what has propelled desigers to introduce the style continuously having the underwear motive such as outwear almost as same as underwear or underwear worn on out-wear etc. and has made it a fashion trends? How do we accept this "Ligerie look'fashion" The rearch on vogue of outwearization of underwear started by the questions above can be summarized as the followings The division between the sprit and the ma-terial-economic shrinkage by the collapse of the bubble economy in the late of 20 century and expectation for the next century doubt by changes of international politics dynamics for the next century and increasement of psycho-logical tention by the environmental destruc-tion etc, has been extended to break the sense of value down These frustration of the tra-ditional values and dissatisfaction on the pres-ent have reflected on the fashion pursuing some more sensational style to increase the ex-posure of the body. The revolution of wearing bouncing the con-servatismhas outwardly expressed underwear of the private sector. Therefore the spatial concept of wear which for the public sec-tor has been fallen into pieces and has broken the wall of the concept fixed by outwear on underwear. in addition the stage costome for the popular people like Madonna has not been limited by the specularity any more and has been assimilated with the normal wear on the street to take the distinction for away. The circumstances of the late of 20 century pursuing sensation and making sex commer-cialized have accordance with the outweari-zation of underwear. there it is on the basis of Minimalist's dogmatism has been expressed the maximization of expoure in the pubric space to popularize bra pants(knickers) as outwear. The reaction on the attribute of hiding and shanding has brought 'See-Through fashion' with the transparent materials, The contemporary doubt recalling the mem-ory of the past has sublimated corset which was an instument of toture for women into Romanticism to introduce it to fashion with the development of a new material not to be a tool of any oppression and maltretment any longer. The popularization of outwear like underwear what's more has brought high quality of underwear. There it has called for the variety of materials such as knit demin and velvet etc, and has urged the famous designers to enlarge their working boundaries to underwear designs, Besides outwearization of underwear has been popular even in the Orient which has the con-servative opinions on exposure ; so changes of the thoughts can be seen among the establish-ment generation on exposure of the body. As the more high tech information publi-cized and the more technology and media digitalized the more expression being analog the pursue for the new in fashion with vision never been seen and even though it is imprac-tical the experimental designers have drived the freedom beyond the traditional roles of the previous century. Consequently outwearization of underwear may be viewd as a trial as an expression responded the contemporary background. This trend in my opinion will have been lasted for a while by being proliperlated among lasted for a while by being proliperlated among the pub-lic who has the century-end anxiety and doubt and expectation for the next century.

  • PDF

단추에 관한 연구 -19, 20세기를 중심으로- (The Study on the Buttons (centering around 19th-20th Centuries))

  • 이영란
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제22권
    • /
    • pp.263-276
    • /
    • 1994
  • The achievement of notable social reoforms attained during the period of 19th and 20th centuries needlessly speaking remodelded the social environmental into several different patterns such as :1) high industrialization 2) propensity to consume 3) up graded overall social stands. Accordingly the industrial world of the but-tons too established the mess production syhstem by breaking from convention of hand-craft work of 17th century. The raw materials used in the production line on buttons during the 20th century are almost all-kind of materials one can possibly named including cheap plastic which enabled production lines to produce cheaper but higher productivities of the buttons being produced, The design (incused design) used in the 19-20h centuries are : men landscape, sports features, birds, livestocks, bugs, or geomatric features, tec, 1, The classification o f the buttons by materials Techniques shapes colors marking (Incused design) used in the productionof buttons in the England United States of America Laska Italy france Denmark Japan and India are categolizzed as : natural raw materials and syntetical resines. 1) Of the natural raw materials used are : Matal Enamel Iodine Agate, Coral, Green jade(Jasper) Granite, Wood, Ivory, Horn and bone etc. 2) The sythetical resin used in the button in-dustries are : Artificial jewell glass Acrylic material Styroform Celluloid and Nylon etc. 2. The thecnique quoted in producing buttons are hand craft work inlay work precision casting press mosic dye etching, processing, engraving and embossed carving etc. 3. The major designs used in the buttons in -dustries are : Round shape however elliptical column angular and edge shape often used. 4. The colors used are : The multi-colors were highly used than mono-colored materials such as : Adjoining Color and Contrast Color. The highest consideration to be considered in choosing the colors for the buttons are harmonization and matching factor with the garment or dresses to be wore. 5. The major design(incused design) on the buttons are embodiment and the design were also used in order of abstractive-combination abstractive with has offers much surprising. The button industries during the 19th and 20th centuries were not only the determination factors those can judge the value of self-pride of Nation and which were far beyond the in-dustrial arts in those days but also highly refelected and influenced by cultural sense ideology and self-pride of the Nation of those period. The followings are details of the role of the buttons categolized in the order of functional ornamental and symbolical aspects : 1. The functional role : The functional role of the buttons were simply designed for dress how-ever the buttons beyond from this role of function now a days. 2. The ornamental role : The ornamental role of he button beyond from this role of the button were effectuated by : 1) shape materials colors 2) technique locations size and design (incused design) 3) The ramaterials used for buttons shall not be over looked because it is highly depends on the taste sense and combination of harmony with the garment to be wore. 4) The color of the buttons are made well contrasted with the color of garments just as in the case of other artistical area such as matchs with the color of garment of contrast with brigtness of colors contrasted as complementary color and so and so. 5) The technique being adoped are: precision casting press handcraft inlay work etching mosic etc,. Since the buttons are no longer a simple catching devise used to fasten together the different part of the dress but now it has formed own and occupied the independent role in the garment or dresses location can be de-termined and varying depending on the ideas of designers. The size of the buttons has no specific limits, However the variation has widely dependined on the entire circumperence rhythm contrast harmonization of the garments. 3. The symbolical role : Since the button is no longer a just a simple devise for catching and fastening device used fastening together the different part of the garments but now were built a independent area as major part of the Garment and well reflected all kinds of occupations political background cultural as-pect etc. on the buttons. The design of buttons in the western circles are more simplified but they are polished looks and their techniques of manufacturing are comination of both machanis and handcraft. The colors used in the buttons are pretty well harmonized with garment(dress). Almost all kind of materials can be used in the but-tons however materials used in the buttons are : Bone of livestocks ivory, turtle shell are no longer used because the prevention of cruely of animal. On the contraly the level of buttons indus-try of Korea is far to reach and catch up with the level of western circles. It is highly suggested therefore the but-tons industrial field of Republic of Korea shall place and encouragement in producing beter industrial environment of the buttons based on the traditional and cultural aspect of republic of Korea to produce both manufacturing of qulified and best designed and colored buttons.

  • PDF

천마총 출토 죽제 천마문 금동장식 장니의 화면구도와 제작기법에 관한 연구 (Study on Image Composition and the Manufacturing Techniques of Bamboo Mudguard with Gilt-bronze Openwork from Cheonmachong Ancient Tomb)

  • 이승렬;신용비;정원섭
    • 보존과학회지
    • /
    • 제32권2호
    • /
    • pp.141-154
    • /
    • 2016
  • 1973년 천마총에서 출토된 죽제 천마문 금동장식 장니는 대부분 온전한 형태를 갖춘 국내에는 유례가 없는 유물이다. 죽제 장니의 출토 사례는 천마총 외에도 금관총 금령총 출토품이 있으나, 모두 편으로만 존재하여 정확한 형태나 제작기법에 대해서 알려진 바가 없다. 본 고에서는 천마총에서 출토된 죽제 천마문 금동장식 장니의 화면구도와 제작기법에 대해 육안관찰과 X선형광분석(XRF), X선투과분석 등을 사용하여 알아보았다. 죽제 장니는 3등분할구조를 기본으로 방사선 형태의 중앙집중구도를 이루고 있으며, 표면을 장식한 10매의 투조금동판과 직물판, 죽제판 그리고 외연을 고정시켜주는 4매의 복륜으로 구성되어 있다. 금동판에는 다양한 세공법과 영락장식으로 표면을 장식하였고, 죽제판은 약 300개의 대오리를 사용하여 세올짜기를 바탕으로 집수를 넣어 엮음으로써 물결무늬를 표현하였다. 직물판은 2종류의 직물을 사용한 것으로 관찰되며, 가죽은 부분적으로 존재하여 판으로 제작되었는지는 확인 할 수 없었다. 각 판을 결합하기 위해서 금동원두정과 영락장식, 복륜 등을 사용하였다. 이번 조사로 금관총 금령총 출토품에 대한 기본조사와 함께 5~6세기 신라시대 죽제 장니의 대한 연구에 도움이 되었으면 한다.

천연염색포의 습식세척에 의한 색상변화 (Effects of the Wet Cleaning to the Color Change of the Dyed Fabrics with Natural Dyes)

  • 백영미
    • 보존과학회지
    • /
    • 제28권1호
    • /
    • pp.21-27
    • /
    • 2012
  • 조선시대 양반가의 장례시 매장방식은 회곽묘제를 사용하였으며, 그 유물들이 현대에 형태를 유지한 채로 출토되는 경우가 종종 있다. 그러나 그 내부에서 발견되는 섬유유물들은 예전에는 염직물이었을 것으로 예상되나 오랫동안 시즙과 수분에 의해 오염되어 고유의 색상 및 물성에 변화를 일으킬 수 있다. 이러한 오염은 출토 후에도 계속적으로 유물의 변퇴색 및 열화에 영향을 미칠 것으로 예상되므로 적합한 세척이 요구된다. 따라서 본 연구는 습식세척 후 출토염직물의 색변화를 최소화할 적합한 세정조건을 조사하기 위하여 적색계 7종, 청색계 1종, 황색계 6종, 녹색계 4종, 자색계 4종의 천연염색 염색포(견과 면)을 만들어서 이를 돈육과 함께 6개월간 냉장보관한 후 꺼내어 물, 음이온계면활성제(SDS), 비이온계면활성제(TritonX-100), 천연계면활성제(Saponin) 등 4종의 세정액를 이용하여 $20^{\circ}C$$40^{\circ}C$의 온도에서 습식세척하여 염직품들의 색상변화에 대한 영향을 조사하였다. 그 결과 색상의 변화는 세정온도, 섬유소재, 세정제, 이용한 염료의 종류에 따라 차이를 나타내었다.

쪽 염료 니람으로부터 Comamonas sp.와 Microbacterium sp.의 분리 및 특성분석 (Isolation and Characterization of Comamonase sp. and Microbacterium sp. from Deep Blue Sediment Dye of Polygoum tinctoria, Niram)

  • 장성은;이남근;이유리;최미성;정용섭
    • KSBB Journal
    • /
    • 제28권1호
    • /
    • pp.60-64
    • /
    • 2013
  • Two strains were isolated from the traditional Deep Blue Sediment Dye of Polygoum tinctoria, Niram, and temporarily named Niram A and Niram B, respectively. The phylogenetic analysis revealed that strain Niram A and B were closely related to the members of the genus Comamonas and Microbacterium, respectively. Strain Niram A exhibited the highest 16S rRNA gene sequence similarity to C. aquatica LMG $2370^T$ (98.06%). Strain Niram B showed 100% homology with M. oxydans DSM 20578T and M. maritypicum DSM $12512^T$. The growth of the strain Niram A and B was not inhibited in Niram medium containing high calcium concentration without free sugar as carbon source. The reducing Niram is greenish. Therefore, the reducing ability on the Niram of the strains Niram A and B were determined with the color difference of the $a^*$ values of Niram fermented-fluids. The $a^*$ value indicates the level of redness (positive value) or greenness (negative value). The green color is increasing towards the negative value. In all samples fermented for 10 days, the $a^*$ values among samples were no significant difference. However, samples fermented for 15 days have an appreciable change. After fermentation for 15 days, the control Niram sample had $-3.96{\pm}0.02$ of the $a^*$ value. On the other hand, the Niram samples fermented with the strain Niram A and B showed $-4.20{\pm}0.02$ of the $a^*$ value and $-7.86{\pm}0.03$ of the $a^*$ value, respectively. In the reducing ability on the Niram, the strain Niram B was significantly better than the strain Niram A.

동양에 있어서의 인삼재배 역사 (The history of ginseng cultivation in Orient)

  • 고승태
    • 인삼문화
    • /
    • 제1권
    • /
    • pp.57-66
    • /
    • 2019
  • Ginseng has been recognized as a lifespan extending medicine which has been regarded as one of the medicines classified as top medicines, as the Boncho (medical herbs) study which is influenced by the idea of guidance's costume and food concept mainly in China is gaining its bona fide form. As the demand for ginseng has been expanded to other levels, the demand for ginseng has been increasing. Ginseng from the nature reached its supply chain limit due to its extinction and difficulty of picking, so it translated into ginseng cultivation of economy rather than harvesting in nature. After the start of ginseng cultivation, the ginseng cultivation was further enhanced by the rapid development of processing methods such as white-ginseng and red-ginseng, and the surge of consumption due to the traditional belief in ginseng drug efficacy and support of scientific research. In the Joseon Dynasty, the name Gasam (cultivated ginseng) had been created as ginseng was cultivated on farmland after the stage of SanYang (wild cultivated ginseng), the purpose of the new name Gasam is to differentiate from natural ginseng, and natural ginseng lost its firm position as the genuine ginseng as the Gasam replaced the genuine ginseng, and the natural ginseng got a new name of SanSam (wild ginseng). Because the real ginseng substance concept dissipated, and as Gasam is being called ginseng, the name Gasam was also disappeared. As a result, it was possible to grow large quantities according to the arrival of the Gasam era, and it was possible to supply the demand for ginseng, and it could become one agricultural industry. In this ginseng cultivation, in Japan where ginseng did not grow naturally, it was difficult to obtain ginseng from Joseon and faced with a shortage of ginseng at all times. Therefore, the shogun cultivated the Gasam systematically at the national level by the inside of the shogunate. However, since the natural ginseng is native to China and Korea, there is a concern about the deterioration of the quality of natural ginseng due to the incorporation of cultivated ginseng (Gasam). To protect the interests, the cultivation of ginseng was subject to control. For this reason, the lack of historical information on Gasam cultivation, which had to be started secretly, would be a natural result. In this paper, althouh not sufficient enough, the historical informations were used to summarize the history of ginseng cultivation in China, Japan and Korea.

중국소수민족(中國少數民族)의 민족복식(民族服飾)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究)(II) - 운남성(雲南省)의 소수민족(少數民族)을 중심(中心)으로 - (A Study on Traditional Costume of China's Minorities(II) - Centering Around Yunnan Province Minorities -)

  • 김영신;홍정민
    • 패션비즈니스
    • /
    • 제3권1호
    • /
    • pp.65-80
    • /
    • 1999
  • In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

  • PDF

연희현장에서의 올바른 활용을 위한 진도다시래기 음악분석 (Musical Analysis of Jindo Dasiraegi music for the Scene of Performing Arts Contents)

  • 한승석;남초롱
    • 공연문화연구
    • /
    • 제25호
    • /
    • pp.253-289
    • /
    • 2012
  • 다시래기는 전라남도 진도 지방에서 전승되는 상장례놀이로서, 죽음의 현장에서 새생명이 탄생한다는 생사불이(生死不二)의 메시지를 담고 있다. 더불어 많은 춤과 노래, 재담을 포함한 독특한 양식적 구조로 인해 현장 연희판에서 새로운 콘텐츠에 목말라 있던 공연문화 담당층의 주목을 끌기에 충분했다. 다시래기에 관한 많은 선행연구물들이 이들의 다시래기 재창조 작업에 커다란 도움을 주었다는 것은 불문가지의 사실이다. 그러나 이전의 연구들이 진도다시래기를 다각도로 다루어 적지 않은 성과를 이루어 내었지만 주로 학술적 접근을 통해 연행의 상징적 의미를 구명하는 데 치중한 것이 사실이다. 또한 공연요소들에 대한 접근도 대본, 노래가사, 재담, 행색, 소도구, 장단, 춤사위 등의 소개에 그쳐 정작 중요한 공연요소인 소리(창(唱))의 구체적 모습에 대한 연구가 없어 아쉬움으로 남아 있었다. 이에 본고는 다시래기 음악을 분석하고 그 음악의 성격과 특징을 악보와 함께 제시하여 공연현장의 연희실기자들에게 실질적인 도움을 주고자 하였다. 본고에서 음악분석 대상으로 삼은 소리는 가상제놀이와 거사 사당놀이에 나오는 모든 소리, 그리고 연희패의 입장 시에 부르는 상여소리로 한정하였다. 다시래기 다섯 절차 중 가상제놀이와 거사 사당놀이, 상여소리가 가장 많이 공연되기 때문이다. 수많은 공연 자료가 있지만 분석의 텍스트로는 E&E미디어에서 출반된 음반인 "진도다시래기"를 택하였다. 이는 이 음원의 녹음상태가 우수하며 무엇보다 본고에서 제시된 악보를 학습 자료로 삼아 다시래기 소리를 익히고자 하는 연희실기자들이 음원 구득과 그 활용을 용이하게 할 수 있다는 판단에서이다. 음악분석 결과, 진도다시래기에서 불리는 소리들은 대부분 꺾는 음이 있는 '미'음계를 사용한 전형적인 육자배기토리로 짜여 있었다. 그리고 '솔'음계의 남부경토리는 극히 일부분에 짧게 나타나며, 음악적 완결성은 갖추지 못하고 있는 것도 알 수 있었다. 또한 같은 상장례음악임에도 씻김굿과의 음악적 친연성은 거의 발견되지 않는데, 이는 망자를 달래서 천도하는 씻김굿과 산 자의 삶을 북돋우는 다시래기의 성격과 기능이 다른 데서 비롯된 음악적 특징이라고 생각된다. 한편 다시래기 소리 전반에 판소리 음악어법적 특징들이 보이는데, 이는 다시래기의 복원과 전승에 있어서 주도적 역할을 한 예능보유자의 과거 창극단 활동이력과 무관하지 않다고 여겨진다. 다시래기 예능 담당자의 이러한 활동이력은 다시래기 원형의 변질을 초래한 원인이 되기도 하였지만, 한편으로는 다시래기의 공연요소를 더욱 풍부하게 하여 공연현장에서 콘텐츠로 활용될 수 있는 연희적 기반을 확장시킨 결과로도 나타났다. 본고의 작업이 다시래기를 원형 삼아 죽음의 상실을 극복하고 삶의 활력을 지켜낼 미래의 진지한 현장예술가들에게 의미 있게 활용되기를 기대한다.