• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.62-70
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine a unique characteristic of the colors of the costumes in Korean basic culture in the aim of seeking Five-elements color found in Korean civilian's costume culture. The scope of Korean basic culture was 32 items specified as an import intangible cultural asset in the side of religion and art for the majority of the Korean people. Within these limits, the colors of the dress, accessories, instruments were extracted by comparing with the naked eye in NCS Color System. The result of this investigation was that Red was yellowish red and high chromatic and deep tone within 4area. Blue was purplish blue and high chromatic and deep tone within 4area, similarly Red. Yellow was pure yellow and high chromatic and bright tone within 3area. Red and Blue in Korean basic culture were more primary color and more high brightness than Korean traditional colors. Religion and art fer Korean civilian revealing the Korean basic culture reflected impending real-life of Korean civilian who intend to overcome their desperate reality at using Five-elements color in their costume.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.34-42
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to change practical korean costume in 20C. In the early 20C, inflow of western civilization started to change korean costume. Since then gradually changes to be simple in Korean costume. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Traditional jacket (jeo-go-li) gradually began to be long to waist line. This jacket length was to be long and it sleeve is to be short in early 2OC. Traditional skirt (Chi-rna) length was short to the calf of the leg. Traditional wide skirt was gradually to be narrow and pleats shape look as if it in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. The width of pleats was about 3~5 cm, be one-sided, look as if it western style in today. But pleats skirt already existed on a women's of the upper classes in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. Women's long Coat (do-lu-ma-gi) length was short to under hip line in late 20c. In this way, the practical idea, the factor of design was because of western idea in civilization ages, early 20C. Since then gradually reformed to be simple in Korean costume. Assuming that the trend of simplification in Korean costume is related to the idea of practical. Therefore Korean costume of living or a reformed Korean costume to be design of practical, functional, convenient, economically. And it must have to traditional idea, it is only beauty of shape, pattern, line, fabric in Korean costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.45-54
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• 2009

The reform of dress regulation in Kapshin(甲申衣制改革; 1884) was the first dress renovation in 8 years after Chosun's port opening in 1876, and the key contents of that reform was the simplification of the formal dress and private dress. The reform in the culture of the traditional costume should require some kind of special experience because that culture had been regarded as the precious symbol of the Confucianism. The purpose of this study is to investigate the background of "the reform" and who proposed "that reform", by contemplating the costume and the thought of costume of the ambassador extraordinary(修信使) and the Inspectors detached to Japan(朝士視察團) who experienced new costume system of Japan sent by Chosun Dynasty. For this study, historical documents such as 'Sillok(實錄)', a sort of report("修信使記錄", "聞見事件") were reviewed and the evidential photos in Japan were analyzed. It can be summarized as follows. First, Kim Kisu(金綺秀, Susinsa) in 1876 and Kim Hongjip(金弘集, Susinsa) in 1880 wore the traditional costume of Chosun in Japan, and described the westernized Japanese costume in view of traditional costume culture. Second, the inspectors detached to Japan in 1881 showed the same attitude to the Japanese costume as the previous Susinsas had done. Third, Park Younghyo(朴泳孝), who was an ambassador extraordinary and plenipotentiary(特命全權大使) in 1882, experienced western style in Japan and played an positive diplomatic activities with western nations. It could be guessed that those changes in the attitudes of the diplomats might have the relationship with the change of Chosun, which began a treaty of amity between western nations after 1882. Afterwards, Chosun seems to have decided to reform the system of traditional costume into the simplified one in 1884, proposed by the diplomats who experienced foreign culture abroad including Park Younghyo(朴泳孝) and the mutual agreement in Chosun Government.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.145-152
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out the traditional decoration techniques in the Korean costume. Both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and investigated the traditional decoration techniques used in the related literatures and museum catalogues. The results were as follows. The broad and back stitching are fundamental stitching, which used to Nubi and Keki. Top stitching applied broadly to the Korean costume, for example, Jergori, Wonsam, Jeonbok, Beosun, Bojagj and so on. The expression techniques for top stitching were one, two or three stitches. When the top stitching was used as colorful stitches, they were more decorative. The Zatmulim was used for the decorative effect on the seam line because it was triangular shaped and became more effective by changing the rotor and size. Sunmulim was used on the narrow line such as the seam lines of Gergori and Chima. The bakchi decoration was imitating a bat shape, had a meaning of bringing the goodness and gave the tiny and elaborated image. It was used to the neckline of Geogori, seam line of Chima, Pungcha Bazi and so on. Sattgi was used to attaching the bottom of two stiff fabrics adopting for Beosun, Ayam and Norigae. When it used colorful strings, the more decorative effect was added. The knot for button used the fabric instead of buttons and applied to the Cheonlik, Gergori. The aesthetic values of the traditional decoration techniques in the costume were both natural beauty and practicality with creativity.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2006.09a
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• pp.87-89
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• 2006

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.82-93
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• 2009

This study is considered about the Taekwondo(跆拳道) uniform classified by period and analyzed the current Taekwondo uniform. And founded on this contents, new designs of uniform, that a functional side are considered and can symb이ize the identity of Taekwondo, are presented through this study. Ancient times to the present time, the Taekwondo uniform classified into three types according to 'Period of putting on our nation's costume'(three kingdoms${\sim}$Joseon(朝鮮) times), 'Period of confusion on uniform'(Japan's colonial rule of Korea${\sim}$-the early 1970s), 'Period of the settlement on official uniform'(the late 1970s-the present time). And besides, the shape of our nation's costume in ancient times is succeeded until Joseon times and this basic style becomes the outset on the current Taekwondo uniform. The designed uniforms are connoted the notion of the aesthetic appreciation in Korean traditional costume, that is, a symbolic, dignified, moderate appreciation with the consideration of a functional side for Taekwondo. And the contents on the presented designs are classified into 'shape, pattern, color'. First, these designs that are adapted the shape of Baji(바지) Jeogori(저고리)-belt, which have symbolized our nation's costume, and the shape of Bacja(배자) had used in Joseon times, are connoted a 'traditional appreciation with functional side'. Second, these designs, which are adapted the patterns of the active image(a bugbear, flying horse, tiger for embroidered patches, Taegeuk(太極)) in a modern style, express a 'symbolic, dignified appreciation'. Third, these designs are well-matched a black and white color with multicolored stripes(saekddong, 색동), and its ones are connoted a 'moderate and symbolic appreciation'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.24-33
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristic and image of oriental costume design on represented among three countries, Korea, China and Japan. The specific objectives were; 1) to identify the design characteristics of oriental costume. 2) to investigate the hierarchic structure of oriental costume image and the meaning structure of oriental costume image. The stimulus were 75 costume design of contemporary costume which represented the traditional image of orient. The main survey of questionary consisted of their evaluation of the oriental costume image by 26 semantic differential bi-polar scales and the subjects were 99 female students majoring in clothing and textiles. The data were analyze by Cluster analysis. Factor analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe test. The major findings were as follows; 1) As a result of design analysis, costume design of Korea, China, Japan had differences on form, color, texture, pattern, ornament, etc. 2) The hierarchic structure of oriental costume image consisted of elegance, sexy, feminine. Through factor analysis about oriental costume image 7 factors were identified; Attention, Attractiveness, Sexiness, Activeness, Weightness, Classics, Classics, Maturity. It was found out strongly that Korean costume image was simple and comfort image, Chinese costume image was sexy and feminine image, Japanese costume image was luxurious and mature image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.63-75
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• 2004

The traditional Ukrain costume has been gradually developed and influenced by the climate and political, economical environments. The national costumes has represented the beliefs and understanding of people about the beauty and harmony of the world. Eastern Europe and Northern Asia are considered as the origins of the Korean traditional costume, and the artifacts ranged from over the Black Sea to ‘Skitai’ and Northern Asia to ‘Noinoola’ support this hypothesis. This study is investigate the formative characteristics of Ukrain national costume especially of the nineteenth century and the early twentieth century. In Ukrain, Men wear ‘Rubaha’ (shirts style's upper garment-in Ukrain Sarochka) and trousers, women wear ‘Rubaha’ with vest and a skirt and a head gear were worn. Ukrain is consisted with three group - 1) Dnipro region-included the Kiev region in the center of Ukrain, 2) Polissia region in the northwest of Ukra in and 3) Hutsul-Zakarpattia region in the west of Ukrain. These three groups have there own different formative characteristics of Ukrain traditional costume.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.173-182
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• 2010

In this study, textile designs were developed by applying Norigae for motives, were digital-printed for it's eco-friendly, delicate and short printing time and as final products, necktie, bag and bedding was developed with them. The purposes of this study were to develop a unique textile design, and then to enhance the competitiveness of Korean textile industry in the world market and pass down a Korean traditional fiber art cultural legacy. The results are as follows Norigaes are a sort of Korean traditional ornaments worn on women's Korean traditional costume. These can vary in color, material, shape, composition and said to have very high artistic value from the standpoint of the modern view. And these are symbols of happiness and women's longing of Korean traditional society. So Norigaes are worthy of applying Korean traditional motive for modern textile design. The textile designs applied a Norigae in this study were estimated comparatively high.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.85-102
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• 2002

This research surveys the forming process of Practical Korean Costume and its social factors and examines Hanbok reformation. The international mode of '86 Seoul Asian Games and '88 Seoul Olympic Games in the 1980's called for the modernization of Hanbok. It is necessary for us to inherit modernized Hanbok which is endowed with the traditional beauty. The purpose of this research is to develop Practical Korean Costume design for focused on functionality as well as on keeping the traditional beauty This study consist of theoretical study and positive study. Theoretical study has the esthetic characteristics(structure characteristic, formative characteristic and the characteristic of color). Grounded upon survey on brands, I have suggested designs that maintain Hanbok's superiority and functionality to fit modern life. Most of Practical Korean Costume shops could not fractionalize customer. So it need to subdivide and specialize customer and investment to improvement of design. Practical Korean Costume will have to be made to maintain dignity by using high quality materials and a coordinate goods will have to be developed.