• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.142-152
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate Spencer jacket of Empire Style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. First, Literature, films and other visual information were utilized in order to classify the designs of Spencer jacket. Second, Production of Spencer jacket using patterns shown in literatures and those commercially used and commercial patterns were investigated to find out design characteristics of jackets. Results and discussions are as follows: The results showed that Spencer jacket can be categorized into following three styles: (1) Jackets having front opening without button stands and standing collar, (2) Double breasted opening and notched collar, (3) Single breasted opening and flat collar with waist band. The characteristics of Spencer jacket design were as follows: (1) Short jacket length, (2) Armhole line moved inwards, (3) Long fit shaped puff sleeves, whose puff being distributed more heavily over back of the sleeve, (4) Diamond shaped back bodice, which are consisted with princess lines and shoulder lines moved backwards.

• 복식
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.71-80
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• 2001

Since the beginning of the 90's, Fashion shows appear to be a type of performance form of art combining with other areas to visually entertain the viewers. This can be explained by the modern tendency to escape from society which requires formality and complicated lifestyles. Fashion shows take place in a scene Influenced by the idea of post-modernism which redefines the definition of space. A church, old factory, unoccupied ground, subway stations, or even place like a waste disposal are used as a setting. The stage set is no longer the T shape run way and the procinium arch has disappeared. The gap between audience and stage has diminished and theatrical element is added to the fashion performance by using viewers living and working environments as setting of the show. The human relation with machine based on the cutting edge technology such as the stage automation, robots and mist making sprinkler system introduces new elements with spontaneity and detailed planning in the stage performance. Music also plays an Important role in attracting viewers. The sound track covers house music to techno music. Instead of music being abstract, folks orchestral music, choirs, piano. even live concert performed by pop artist provide the liveliness of the fashion show. And the catwalk itself is a performance. Model needs to be well trained as the capable talent who can handle sensitive gestures, facial expressions, dancing and choreography. The improvisatorial interaction between audience and model lead to audience participation. Models now range from pop star, ordinary people, handicapped people, to elderly and so on. John Galliano introduced the theatrical factors for the fashion show and Alexander Mcqueen approached the fashion show as the visual art of communication. Hussein Chalayan utilized high technology skewing futurism as if in a magic show. Today the Fashion show tends to be a total performance which includes audience participation, impromptu, and that break the limitation that fashion shows previously had. This will lead the fashion industry in opening new horizon of its own.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.63-74
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• 2005

The cinema costume designers carry out the creative works in a different way from the commercial fashion designers generating the new trends by season or year for a number of people. Costumes created by the cinema costume designers are for the people acting in the film screens such as heroes, heroines or extras. The cinema costume designers should not miss the overall flow of a cinema. Moreover, the prominent designers have to devise the costumes livening up every scene. Most cinemas with the prudent interests and attention on the costumes are favored by the public and gain the commercial success. In particular, the cinemas emphasize the visual effects such as setting, lighting and computer graphics and require the substantial budgets for preparing the costumes regardless of genres, while all other industrial fields will be the same. Such efforts are to deliver the meaning and aesthetics that the cinemas intend to show through the designs, colors and textures of costumes closed up in each scene. The costumes in cinemas are another linguistic system and have the symbolic form of compound and meaningful communication used by the directors. The costume design is required to produce the costumes that liven up the characteristics of heroes or heroines as well as to fit for the general artistic effects of films. Moreover, it has to express the characters in the films using the costumes suitable for the film genres. Cinema costumes are defined and refined, and the process can be angst-ridden. Each frame of film is a canvas and has its own proscenuium. Every garment worn in a theatrical production is a costume. Before an actor speaks, his wardrobe has already spoken for him. From the most obvious and flamboyant show clothing, to contemporary clothes using subtle design language, costume design plays an integral part in every film production. Costume design is a vital tool for storytelling. Costumes have always had enormous influence on world fashion. Costume designers are passionate storytellers, historians, social commentators, humorists, psychologists, trendsetters and magicians who can conjure glamour and codify icons. Costume designers are project managers who have to juggle ever-decreasing wardrobe budgets and battle the economic realities of film production. Costume designers are artists with pen and paper, form, fabric and the human figure.

• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.129-142
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• 2006

The historicism and romanticism of John Galliano's designs are rivaled only by the spectacular and theatrical nature of his fashion shows; romantic silhouette, the complexity of the cut and, of course, the painstaking attention to historical detail. Galliano's approach is very much that of a British designer in that he absorbs wildly diverging historical and cultural elements to invent new hybridizations of the contemporary. Galliano started his career as part of the wildly uninhibited avant-garde London design scene. His designs were twisted and artfully torn, weired and also beautiful. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's works by borrowing the Comic. The Comic or the Comedy is a kind of art form that signifies exciting effects, and so, is a means of raising a laugh. The similar concepts of the Comic already were depicted by means of transformation and distortion of form, satire, fantastic pastiche and reversion of substances on Cubism, Dada, Surrealism, Pop Art and Postmodernism. Therefore, John Galliano selected the quixotic expressional methods to seek for having playful fun. The aesthetics of the Comic is the beauty based on quantitative or qualitative contradiction between expectations and realizations. That is, the Comic is characterized by getting rid of stress through laugh with clarifying a subject of contradiction. This study found that John Galliano's designs are expressed the quixotic comic on Historical image, Exotic image and Primitive image to make a complaint against the social evils.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.34-44
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to provide effective design strategy and distinguish productions for the consumer's emotion satisfaction by analyzing formative properties of fashion sensibility and emotion. 54 photos of contemporary costume have been selected which represented the Izard' DES. The questionnaire consisted of bi-polar 25 pairs adjective scale of fashion sensibility and the 18 noun scale of emotion was distributed to 970 male and female living in Pusan area. The data were analyzed by GLM using the statistic SPSS package. The major findings of this research were as follows. 1. In the clothing formative properties following fashion sensibilities, aestheticism shows significant differences in the silhouette and texture, maturity in the silhouette and color, character in the texture and decoration and feminity in the pattern and color. 2. In the clothing formative properties following emotions, negative emotion shows significant differences in the pattern and silhouette, distressㆍfear in the silhouette and pattern, arousal in the texture and color, shame in the color and texture and enjoyment in the silhouette and pattern. 3. In the fashion sensibility and emotion following clothing formative properties, each formative property shows differences in fashion sensibility and emotion. This study result will be utilized in the clothing design development in special usage like theatrical costume, discriminated display and advertisement stratge.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.48-64
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.17-32
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• 2017

Modern society has been transformed into a digital emotional society that could gradually be seen, felt, and enjoyed by the diversification of personal consumption desires due to digital development. Accordingly, in fashion, an original fashion sense that arose out of classical and conventional thinking has become important and there is an increasing interest in patchwork quilts. The purpose of this study lies in contributing to the development and utilization of creative and emotional fashion design by expanding the mental changes that have emerged in modern society to creative areas after analyzing the classification and expression characteristics of the type cases of patchwork quilt techniques expressed in modern fashion. In addition, it is meaningful to examine how the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts are expressed in the digital emotion era. This study paralleled literature research and empirical case studies. In the scope and method of research, the theatrical research was centered on literature data. For visual data, website photos were collected, limited to women's clothing among the collections from Fall & Winter 2014 to Spring & Summer 2017. After drawing the expression types of patchwork quilts extracted from the previous research based on the design formative factors, the fashion-related expert group analyzed the expressive characteristics of 501 photographs in which the patchwork quilt of the designer clothing collection were reflected. As a result of analysis, the expressive types appeared in the order of diversification of techniques and materials, extended dual images, new formative composition, and reconstruction of traditional patchwork. In this study, the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts expressed in contemporary fashion are analyzed and drawn as variability, compromise, convergence, and playfulness. Through this, it is hoped that this study can be used variously in the development of fashion design by expanding the interpretation of costume culture.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2017

The consumption trend of fashion in modern industrial society is developing from the rapid changes, and the lifespan of fashion products becomes shorter due to the various industrial wastes. Due to the attitude change caused by the ethical consumption consciousness and environment awareness, the up-cycle fashion products got to receive attention, and it is in the limelight as a new trend to realize the sustainable fashion products in the domestic and foreign fashion. The purpose of this study lies in drawing the expression characteristics by investigating and analyzing the cases of each type on the fashion bag products of up-cycle brand, and contributing to the diversification of product family fitting to the characteristics of fashion bag product of up-cycle brand, systematic strategies of up-cycle fashion products, and activation of up-cycle fashion market. In research methods, the theatrical researches were conducted centered the relevant domestic literature materials, preceding papers, etc., which ran paralleled with the actual case analysis study. Through the preceding research and websites related to selected products, websites of up-cycle companies, relevant books, related articles, etc., the expression characteristics of up-cycle fashion bag products were drawn. The results of this study are as follows: First, as it has the feature of historicality, the designs can be created by containing the designer's story, story of materials, and consumer's story. Second, since it has the characteristic of sustainability, the application of manufacturing process and materials, extension of product life, conversion of original material's function, etc. can be sustainable. Third, as it's a trait of scarcity, all products may be produced by hand, and it can have the specialty which the original materials have. Fourth, since it has an eco-friendly trait, even while saving the original materials, the aesthetic needs could be met according to the consumers' continuous demand.

• 복식
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• 제66권8호
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• pp.78-97
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to develop textile pattern designs by utilizing the prototype of traditional culture extracted from cultural resources in order to establish a specialty strategy for local cultural contents. To achieve this, the study selected the Hyojaemunjado as source of Jeju traditional culture. Jeju's Hyojaemunjado is characterized mainly by the creative and unique formativeness of Jeju's character paintings. Character paintings often contained images related to the characters featured inside characters, or composed stroke with symbolic iconography. The main subjects of Hyojaemunjado were stories that alluded to the Confucian virtues. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to remind people of the real meaning of Shin(truth) by developing textile pattern designs, which borrows the tessellation technique for design, and the dominant characteristic of geometric abstraction. This study used theoretical research and empirical analysis. First, the study did the theatrical research on Hyojaemunjado based on literature and precedent studies, and then analyzed the style of expression and formativeness on the Shin character paintings through real analysis of Jeju's Hyojaemunjado kept in Jeju National University Museum. Second, based on the analysis of the style(three-tier composition) and formativeness of Hyojaemunjado, it analyzed the formativeness of the iconography about Shin, i.e. character types(semi cursive style, square style) drawn according to the symbolic meaning, palace, unknown flower, pheasant, tile fish and constellation. Based on analysis of the iconography, it stylized the motives that became available on the Archimedean tiling of tessellation, and then developed the textile pattern designs by arranging the iconographic motives with Platonic tiling and Semi-tiling. The reason why this study borrowed tessellation was to create various visual effects using the size of angle, symmetry and change and joint with simple figure.

• 복식
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• 제54권7호
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• pp.135-150
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• 2004

The purpose of this research was intended to investigate drag queens' and drag kings' gender identity not only as a comic and desexualized drag borrowing external characteristics of the opposite sex but also as the subject visualizing and performing' the third sex'. It also aimed to examine formative aesthetic characteristics and aesthetical value of drag queen's and drag king's fashion and to confirm the functions of drag queen's and drag kins's fashion to establish, visualize and Perform the discordant sex. For this process, research steps were as follows : 1. Understanding drag, drag queen and drag king in social, psychological context as well as in gender context. 2. Finding visualized forms which drag performance interchange with mass media 3. Analyzing similarities and differences between drag queen's fashion and drag king's fashion. 4. Examining the aesthetical characteristics and the value of drag queen's and drag king's fashion. The results of characteristics of drag queen's fashion could be categorized into stereotype, mimicry, kitch, inconsistency and commercialism. And the characteristics of drag king's fashion could be divided into reality, self-consciousness, mimicry, inconsistency, subversion and multiplicity. Drag queens create plausible impressions of feminity through the use of wigs, dresses, jewelry, makeup, hormones and through &role Playing&. Similarly drag kings produce a plausible masculinity taking gay male aesthetic using suits, crotch stuffers, facial hair, and greased hair. Male and female impersonation produce very different notions of gender performance for male and female embodiment. Drag kings' performance of masculinity demands authentic property of bodies so rather nonperformative, while drag queens' performance of femininity depends on more visible and theatrical fashion.