• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.73-85
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to understand what the Glam Style is, focus on the movie "Velvet Goldmine". The Glam Style is refered early 1970s Glam rockers' costume, typified by silver lurex, corksoled platform, men in make-up, personified, for example, by David Bowie, Marc Bolan, New York Dolls, Roxy Music and Iggy Pop. To approach the Glam Style comprehensively, I have divided the formative background of Glam Style into the improvement technology, the advent of the young generation and the diffusion of mass media, the rock music fever and influence on Pop art. Following is the result of analyzing of the character in the movie. First, Brian Slade has the flamboyant transsexual image by skin-tight space suit, glitter pants, lurex, satin and sequined stretch fabrics, vivid color, gauze make-up, feather boa. Second, Curt Wild expresses the outrageous sexual image by black leather jacket, emphasized black eyes make-up. Third, Mandy Slade appears the exaggerated and frivolous image by gold leopard patterned one piece, fur coat, ornamented with beads, tropical make-up, spangles and the costume jewelry. Forth, Auther Stuart has the complex image by black leather jacket, velvet jacket, skin-tight bold shirt, glitter pants, glitter make-up, silk scarf, cherry-red sunglasses. The characteristics meaning of Glam Style implied in this formative characteristic could be presented as the experimental expression of androgynous, the hordes of outrageous alien and kitsch parody.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.32-48
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• 2007

Korean traditional flower motifs have often been used in traditional embroidery on personal products and on decorations. The flower motifs seen on embroidery with a variety of techniques show the shapes and colors changing to more and more brilliant and colorful design. Even today the flower motifs in embroideries continue to be reinterpreted in both modern ways and also in traditional ways with their fancy beauty in the design industry. This research is based on documentary and demonstrative studies conducted to find out the formative properties of these motifs through and analyzing the shapes and colors of flower motif embroideries from the Choseon Dynasty as applied in developing modern designs in harmony with their traditional beauty. A summary of the research is as follows. First, the peony blossom appears the most, with its gorgeous flower shape. It was used in a variety of ways for decorative purposes as well as in wishing for wealth and harmony on clothes or on personal products. Second, the result of analyzing the flower motifs on embroidery shows that 'realistic-complex- flower patterns' and 'stylized-complex-flower patterns' are mostly seen. Third, many of the peony blossoms, chrysanthemums, and Japanese apricots were in a radial shape and front facing with stamens, and the lotus flowers were mostly shown on the lateral side. Fourth, as a result of analyzing the colors of the flower motifs on embroideries, a tendency is shown toward the R and RP colors of v, b tone and the shades YR, Y, GY, and G colors of lt and p tone.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.697-711
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• 2011

As the superiority of Hangeul becomes known globally, design products utilizing a Hangeul motif are gaining attention in international markets. Accordingly, the interest in Hangeul typography is also increasing. Visual and formative designers are actively developing typographies, as typographies have limitless development potential as a type of formative expression for communication. Accordingly, this study will encompass the spirit, value and beauty of Hangeul in fashion design. The purpose of study is to demonstrate how to express the greatest amount of the beauty of the Korean language for the general public and how to utilize such expressions in various areas. The detailed content of this study is as following. First, the functionality and expression characteristics of typography will be understood by exploring the concept of typography and reviewing the design cases utilizing typography. Second, cases that utilized Hangeul typography will be reviewed and their types and issues will be identified. Third, the design direction will be set based on above exploration. Finally, four design works utilizing Hangeul typography will be suggested as the study result. Accordingly, this study applied Hangeul typography on the shirt design and attempted to contribute to the practical use of Hangeul in everyday living through design products.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.150-162
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• 2011

Personal health and environment is being aimed recently to show increase in preferences of eco-friendly cosmetics with longing of clean nature, and environment on pure plant ingredients. This study has the purpose of inquiring components and types of magazine advertisement in eco-friendly cosmetics and to analyze the model characteristics. The standards of analysis were classified as product, face, background, article, arrangement of colors, image, and eco-friendly factors. The results of this study are as follow. First, in inquiring the general characteristics of the magazine advertisement in eco-friendly cosmetics, the results were shown as the order of attention on product, face, background, article, arrangement of colors, image and eco-friendly factors. Second, in inquiring the components and types of magazine advertisement in eco-friendly cosmetics, the results showed an attentive difference in product, face, background, article, arrangement of colors and eco-friendly factors. Third, in inquiring relationships of model characteristics between domestic and foreign eco-friendly cosmetics, the results showed lots of domestic cosmetics advertising direct advertising, product type emerged was a lot of character type emerged. International cosmetics advertising, indirect advertising and highlighting the many articles that appeared prominently type is characterized.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.131-142
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• 2009

In response to the need of developing children's wear design using traditional elements, this study purposed to develop fashion designs emphasizing contemporary images based on the symbolism and formativeness of traditional dresses. For this study, we reviewed the definitions and symbolism of traditional colors and traditional patterns using previous research, and classified them according to formative shape. In addition, this study made three pieces of dress and developed unique designs by applying the traditional patterns and elements of Korean traditional dress styles. The research methods were as follows. First, we examined the images of Korean traditional colors and classified the symbols and meanings of the colors. Second, we identified the types of patterns, and classified them into shapes and symbols. Third, we designed and made actual works by applying traditional patterns. Based on the theoretical studies as presented above, we developed contemporary casual hanbok designs for children by applying symbolic and formative traditional patterns and using DTP (digital textile printing).

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.41-50
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to help understanding of fun image in fashion & pattern to play a guideline's role in the development on fashion designs study. The methods of this study are academic literatures as well as practical study through case studies about actual works. Formative characteristics of fun image in fashion & pattern are summarized amusement, unexpecting, childishness, and incongruity as follows. First, Amusement pursuits pleasure, freedom, vitality of living and getting away from reality, while doing the mind gently. Second, Unexpecting leads to stop a moment by unforeseen circumstances which gives embarrassing. This embarrassing induces new ideas that led to a larger perspective on the will from exhilarating fun of the thrill of driving pleasure on fashion. Third, Childishness shows a pureness and relaxedness by approaching for innocent and naive child's Sights away from the desire required adult social roles. Fourth, Incongruity aim for fresh of fashion through humanism and freedom in mechanized and standardized society Recently fun images have received attention is interpreted that joy, pleasure, enjoyment because fun image gives emotional comfort in uncertainty, dissatisfaction, and rapid changes society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.76-91
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to prescribe formative perspectives as a framework where the aesthetic taste and demands of a certain period are embodied and to develop new analytical tools to examine the beauty of dress in terms of form. First, the theoretical tools selected for this study are Heinrich Wolfflin's formative perspective theory derived from art and Marilyn R. DeLong's framework for visual analysis of dress. Second, several issues that limited the development of a new framework for analyzing the form of dress were identified and addressed. Third, the selected aspects of dress form to be analyzed are specified. They are: silhouette, inner form, structure form, materials and patterns based upon the relationship between the body, dress and space in order to develop new formative perspectives. Based upon these theories a new framework for analyzing dress aesthetics in terms of form is developed. This reconstructed framework consists of three sets of antagonistic representational styles: closed form/open form, linear form/painterly form and multiplicity/unity. Closed form/open form represented in dress can be classified by the clear or obscure silhouette shown not only in the relationship between the dress and space around the dress, but also from changeability or invariability of dress in relation to the body. The material, pattern and various design elements are used as the central criteria to determine the linear/painterly characteristics in dress representations. Finally, the multiplicity/unity can be found in the relationship between the whole and the parts. Multiplicity is represented in dress when the parts have a visual priority over the whole, whereas unity is represented when a dress as a whole has visual priority over the parts. A dress represented with closed form, linear characteristic and multiplicity is perceived as a clear form. In contrast, a dress with open form, painterly characteristic and unity is understood to be an obscure form. It can be said that this study is the first attempt to establish the formative perspectives for analyzing the form of dress in various periods, cultures and races for the future studies.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.11-21
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to understand of future image in fashion for 20C, to suggest a guideline's role in the development on fashion designs study. The methods of this study are used academic literatures as well as practical study. Futuristic image in fashion is to introduce about the future period, as fashion goes ahead times. Trends and formative characteristics of future image in 20C fashion are summarized as follows. First, futuristic images in fashion for 20C had emerged strongly futurism, space look, kinetic look, glitter look, techno look, cyber look. Second, perspectives on response for future society's changes are summarized as follows. Attitude of futuristic images of fashion, futurism, space look, kinetic look and glitter look, had been favorable about future society's changes until 1980. In 1990, techno look had been defensive and cyber look had been aggressive about future society's changes. Third, formative characteristics of future image in 20C fashion are studied shape, material, color, pattern. Shape was preferred linear and geometric form in the first half of the 20C, but body conscious type had appeared often in the second half of 20C. Material maintained the luster or the metal touch. Color was based image of colorless and preferred the gold, silver or color feels like metal. Pattern was preferred clarity with geometric type in the first half of the 20C. On the other hand in the second half of 20C pattern of future image was dominated by vague and abstract chaotic type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.94-108
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• 2011

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze various Romantic styles appearing in modem fashion based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Michel Foucault. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are absence and resemblance. They are derived from the Foucault's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Vel$\acute{a}$zquez and Magritte. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style dress in the 19th century are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. And the aesthetic values of that are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style that have appeared since 1980s is analyzed according to absence and resemblance. The results are as follows: first, absence in fashion means that body is more emphasized than dress represented by omitting part or the entire of dress or using the transparent materials. In modem fashion, absence also frees the body from dress and creates ambiguity of boundaries between body and dress. Another characteristic of the absence is lessening the volume, which means the size of dress remains still big but the weight is lightened. Second, resemblance means the formative similarities between the Romantic style of the $19^{th}$ century's and that of modem fashion created through using modem technology and materials. The characteristics of the resemblance are the fixed form, lessening of volume of the dress and ornamentation. Feminine beauty inherent in the original, such as subordination, sensuality, and maternity, looses its symbolic meaning and what is created is a new combination of images and signifiant that contain no or uncertain meanings. Thus totally new and different Romantic style is created. The Romantic style in modem fashion changed into the appropriate style to the modem society under various conditions such as designer's will, postmodernism, changes of femininity and technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.26-39
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• 2012

This study intends to reconsider pleat, which was undermined as something too simple to express the details for women's costume, by focusing on the aesthetic value of plea in men's costumes in the west before the 20th century. Furthermore, based on the aesthetic value of the pleat, diverse studies on contemporary men's costumes shall help to attempt to set up a basis for the new mode of men's costume. The pleat, a component in the costume since the ancient times, had unique characteristics including functionality, a sense of volume, directing effect that is caused by line repetitions and formativeness that results through elasticity. First, the aesthetics of the pleat before the 20th century shows rhythmic sense through the repetition of the pleat line as shown in the drape type costume, and it also shows a sense of volume as the pleat is moved along the motion of the body. Second, it shows functionality as the expansion of space moves in accordance with the motion of body sets up an internal space of the costume that facilitates body motion. Third, the pleat extends two dimension space into three dimension space using its elasticity. It exaggerates specific parts of the costume while ignoring body shape in order to symbolize status and authority of men. Fourth, it unifies the costume by wrapping the body by using quadrangle cloths with drapers, and expanding the silhouette with the pleat artificially to conceal the physical character and personality of the wearer. The physical character of the wearer disappears into the space made by the pleat. The pleat reveals the voluptuous beauty within.