• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.269-278
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• 2011

This study aims at setting up productive capacity which can be usefully utilized for work management of apparel manufacturers. So as to achieve this goal, an apparel manufacturing company which has been operated by miniline system in Seoul was selected. Standard time and man-hour were calculated to create the accurate productive capacity by observing and measuring a work flow included cutting, sewing and finishing processes. And the result is as following. The standard time for each process was presented as cutting process 47004.5s, sewing process 671050.5s and finishing process 22426.3s. And 15284.4ms was computed as total procession man-hour per day of the manufacturer which is organized of 16 people. Also, the procession man-hour for each process was revealed as cutting process 396.7ms(2.6%), sewing process 14509.3ms(94.9%) and finishing process 378.5ms(2.5%). +Surplus was found in the productivity for each process included the cutting process(outshell, lining and seam process), the sewing process(preparation and arrangement process) and the finishing process. But, additional man-hour 52436.18ms was required because the productive capacity was calculated as -surplus(-13.9%) in the sewing process(part and assembly process). Therefore, a work schedule was planned based on the previous result. However, loading can be ideal when a capacity and a load become '0'. The object company should find the way to reduce allowance(26.25%) of the sewing process through reconstruction of consciousness and improvement in functions with analyzing works of operators. Also, they need to consider an additional supplement of the personnel.

• 복식
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• 제59권9호
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• pp.26-42
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine how to sew the hem of men's coat which were excavated from the Yeosan Song Clan's tombs that are thought to be formed between the late 15th and the late 16th centuries, findings of the study can be summarized as follows. 1. Andan, or inside facing was used to prevent the hem from being worn or swollen or to make the hem properly arranged. It was generally used for single-layered and cotton-quilted coat for men. Deotdan was used mainly for men's coat having oblique cutting lines and jemuldan for those having straight cutting lines. In single-layed coat for men, the width of andan was widened a little as the times moved from the late 15th to the late 16th century, but in cotton-quilted ones, the width was not significantly changed. 2. Fixing the lining and the upper was used as a method to prevent the lining of men's coat from being pushed out or the hem of the clothes from being swollen. The method was generally used for double-layered, cotton and cotton-quilted coat for men. The double back-stitching was usually used for double-layered and cotton coat for men and the broad-stitching for Cotton-quilted ones. 3. Among men's coat, those whose siding was partially opened were less spare in the lower end than those whose siding was wholly opened. For this reason, the former clothes were more likely to have the tip of the siding easily torn. To solve this problem, overhand knotting 1, overhand knotting 2 and lotus-flower knotting strings were used for men's coat whose siding was partially opened. Among the three types, lotus-flower knotting was most elaborate in form. For men's coat, overhand knotting became gradually replaced by lotus-flower knotting as the times moved from the late 15th to the late 16th century.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.139-147
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• 2008

This study aims to investigate and analyze sewing methods according to the shape of the inner collar among women's jeogories in order to understand such sewing techniques, which has emerged during modern Korea, and has utilized diversly for the shape of the jeogori's inner collar and as part of the inner collar. The study was conducted on relics possessed between 1900 to 1990, or 515 pieces of jeogories. Jeogories were classified into single-layered and double-layered jeogories according to the shape of their composition. Inner collar shapes of jeogories have also been categorized. It was found that single-layered jeogories comprise 49 inner collars with shapes identical to those of the outer collars. Double-layered jeogories comprise of the following three types: 43 pieces of godae close, 18 pieces in which the inner collar of the outer bodice are cut without a connecting line and the inner collar of the godae and inner bodice are suspended, and 405 pieces in which the share of the inner collar is identical to that of the outer collar. From the shapes of inner collars mentioned above, the following sewing methods have been derived: 1. To sew the inner collar of single-layered jeogories, a seaming technique had been used. 2. Among the inner collars of a double-layered jeogori, godae close was sewn with only a short part of the godae by using a lining, and then finished with overage and blind stitches. Godae close was a covenient way to attach inner collars, and also saved much time. 3. Inner collars with shapes identical to the outer collar are divided into two groups: those with outer collars cut out fellowing the cloth without seam and shifted towards the linings and used as an inner collar, and those with outer collars made of outer linings and inner collar of inner linings. To sew the collar, paste and needlework had been employed, where the methods of needlework were divided into blind stitch, overage stitch, and catch stitch. In sewing with paste, only godae was blind stitched or overage stitched, and the remainder had been painted with paste or the collar had been finished with heated soldering iron after the entire inner collar was painted with paste.

• 복식
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• 제29권
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• pp.117-126
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• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on the past costume is getting more importance and as the methodolgy of the study the accu-rately approached study through the rehabili-tation of the past cosume is more needed than the simple rearrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The general silhouette is the style to emphasize the waist and to widen skirt at the lower part of the body. The front shows hourglass silhouette but the side shows S-line silhouette. The dress is two-piece composed of bodice and skirt. 2) Color and Fabric: The main color is dull powder blue end the sub color is ivory. The dress is made of wool crepe and cotton and partly silk crepe satin and taffeta. 3) Pattern and sewing: The dress is combined with lining and fabrics, The patterns. or overbodice. The skirt is gored skirt. The skirt is gored skirt. The dress has various effect not only to decorate but also to conceal seams support hemlines nd affect the depth and length of front panel. 4) Datail: The braid black velvet ribbon frill and tucks in bodice skirt sleeves front panel collar cuffs are repeatedly used to dec-orate the dress. Finally the 1902-3 day dress has the characteristics of transitional stag in which the chatacteristics of the costume of 1900s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the charac-teristics of day dress well in terms of the style color and fabric pattern and sewing and detail.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.33-47
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• 2020

As people have gained leisure time and become more interested in sports, various industries catering to these sports, including aquatic and underwater activities are growing. Many people are getting into scuba diving, where people can explore the sea at depths of more than 40-meters. Despite the increasing demand, there are limited studies on the sport. This study aims to provide basic research on materials suitable for developing technical scuba diving suits by analyzing several areas, such as design, material, sewing patterns, etc. The following trends were observed in all wetsuits: closure designs, ergonomic patterns, practical and functional details. Neoprene was the primary material of diving suits, and various functional materials were attached to the outer fabric or lining. The seam technique which minimized water contact and improved durability was sewing. Various techniques were also applied, such as flatlock stitching, GBS, LFS, etc. Subsequent studies shall investigate consumer preference etc. and other aspects, and continue to allow for the research and development of technical diving suits.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2003

Nowadays, retro to the past fashion is appeared just as often as new challenge and trial. The style of Renaissance Era is the most often revival theme for contemporary fashion. So, this study was focused on 16C of Renaissance costume. It is investigated the characteristics of Renaissance costume through referring the literature to be able to restore the past costume as through as possible with the object of building database for developing new design. This study is done in two different ways at the same time, direct study to restore and indirect study to refer. Direct one is of the past costume as thoroughas possible based on referring to the originals. The other is referring the costume historical literature The costumes to restore is chosen among 16C famous pictures on the basis of how much they can show the typical chracteristics of 16C costume. Materials including textiles and ornaments which are necessarily to restore were shopped in Dongdeamoon Market. Some materials had a problem to get exactly the same one in Seoul on 21C. After visiting imes, the materials is chosen as similar as originals. Three sets of costume were restored on the basis of referring "Pattern of Fashion" written by Janet Arnold. The costumes were restored by reinforcing bodice based on the size of waist and in every three works. The way of sewing is based on hand sewing for details and machin-sewing for seam. Quilting intl lining is uwed giving the fabric stiffness to maintain the form from the heavy padding. Also the part of piles on margins is used darts instead of gather, because of reducing bulkiness of seam. General closing methods are hook and eyes, and lacing with points.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.776-786
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• 2016

This study intends to suggest production process of circular knitted jackets and dimensional change data of finished clothes after washing. the study provides pattern design method of circular knitted jackets by applying dimensional change. By doing so, the purpose of this study is to increase production efficiency through accurate order in consideration of loss amount of the fabrics in production. With the three fabric materials selected, this study investigated dimensional change of circular knitted jackets after sewing and washing by varying the parts to be attached to padding cloth and with or without inner lining. As for the fabric F-C (including the spandex, thicker and weightier than the other two fabrics), front width shrunk by 4.6%, which showed the biggest shrinkage among the jackets made of test fabrics. Then it suggested design methods of circular knitted jacket patterns to which dimensional change is applied according to materials, and analyzed the amount of fabric required for production by comparison of the materials. When using the fabric F-C without inner lining, there is big dimensional change and more than double amount of fabric is required. It is expected that the research results will be a basic data for pattern design and production process of circular knitted clothing.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.27-44
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to attempt to diversify artistic expression through combinations of the twelve zodiac animals and origami techniques and to propose new directions for fashion design by applying these to fashion accessory bag designs. For the research method, this study researched the representative forms and characteristics of twelve zodiac animals based on the cultural background. Also, diverse cases of origami techniques were sought to apply them to the development of bags. The results are as follows. First, expressed forms of the Chinese zodiac were newly expanded by realizing the form of Chinese zodiac animals through various origami techniques. Origami work displays abstract visual effects rather than intuitive feelings or expressions of flat designs. With this, detailed realizations could be made through the characteristics and cultural implications of animals. Second, the work created in this study utilized zero-waste patterns that use origami techniques on one whole piece. During pattern production, folded parts were marked without waste and the outer fabric and lining were produced. Patterns were all symmetrical lines so most forms were expressed with squares and equilateral triangles. Third, through actual work produced using fabric instead of paper, effects that are brought about through folding are determined in diverse ways according to fabric textures or material types and thicknesses. When paper is folded, shapes are created as folded, but fabric requires the use of supportive material to create the effects of origami. Polyester and blended fabric were easy to use with high levels of function and practicality. Through such diverse production attempts, fixing methods, hand sewing, sewing machines, double-sided tape, and leather adhesive were used.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.57-72
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• 2010

The purposes of the research were to find out the clothing construction factors of the mechanical industry working clothes by analyzing the working clothes supplied to 5 subject companies; and to suggest the optimized sewing conditions and the seam strength and elongation experimental data according to the clothing material and seam types implied to the working clothes collected. The fabric types and trimmings used for the mechanical manufacturing working clothes were Polyester/Cotton(65/35%), Polyester/Rayon(65/35%), Cotton(100%); and linings, interlining, various fastenings etc. 2 stitch types, i.e. lock and two-thread chain stitches were applied to the construction of the flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped and bound seams for the seam strength and elongation experiment. The results derived from the experiment were as follows. (1) The seam strength results according to the seam types were high in the order of lap felled>lapped>flat, superimposed and French seams. (2) Considering the features of the seam construction, as the number of fabric layers at the seam line increased the seam strength also increased. (3) Apart from the highest seam strength from the experiment using the net lining with the main fabric, the seam construction consisting of two fabric layers with the interlining showed relatively high seam strength results. (4) The seam elongations according to the stitch types were high in the order of two-thread chain>lock stitches.