• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.4
• /
• pp.71-85
• /
• 2003

The costume of the 17th Century based on the excavated costume from the graves of Tong-Rae Jwg Clan are studied in this paper. The remaining were used for filling up the coffin consists of 1 piece of Dopo(도포) from the grave of Jung, Kwang-Kyung, 7 pieces of Joongchimak(중적막), 1 piece of Sochng-eui(소창의), and 1 piece of pants from the grave of Jae-Hoo Jung, grand-son of Kwang-Kyung Jung. From these remainings, this study newly reveals or confirms : 1) Standards of transition Procedure of mid-l7th century's Dopo with gussets, 2) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Joongchimak with wide sleeves and side slits, 3) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Sochang-eui with narrow sleeves and side slits, 4) Typical style of pants in the 17th century, 5) The constructive methods for quilted fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.5
• /
• pp.102-117
• /
• 2008

This study shows the badge system for military officials of Joseon dynasty. The badge system for military officials of the 15th century consists of rank badges with tiger and leopard for the first and second ranks and rank badges with bear for the third rank. According to the code of laws, military officials are supposed to wear the rank badges with four different kinds of animals in Joseon dynasty. However, the badge system shown in the code of laws sometimes does not match with the badges in practices. Based on the literature, remaining badges and the badges in portraits, six different kinds of badges with animals are found : First, rank badges with tiger and leopard were used until the late 16th century. Second, rank badges with tiger were found in the period between the early 17th century and the latter 18th century. Third, rank badges with Haechi were found in the early 17th century. Fourth, rank badges with lions can be found in remains of the mid 17th century, the literature and the portrait of the late 18th century. Finally, the rank badges with double leopards or with single leopard were found from a portrait dated the late of 18th century to the last period of Joseon dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.5
• /
• pp.109-123
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine features of parts of Jikryung and relations among the features. Results of the study can be described as follows. 1. The short front and long rear of Jikryung was changed into the long front and long rear of the dress in the late 16th century. Kalgit of quasi-square style as double collar was changed into that of common collar in the late 16th century and then into common semi-circle collar in the early 17th century, when double Sup was also changed Into single Sup. Narrow sleeves of Jikryung were replaced by bean chaff-shaped in the late 16th century and then by wide ones in the early period of the next century. The shape of the side hem of Jikryung was changed from rectangle into trapezoid in the early 17th century Triangle-shaped Moo was changed into trapezoid-shaped one in the late 16th century and then again into triangle in the late 17th century 2. Changes in shapes of the parts of Jikryung were made with them correlated. The collar of Jikryung saw change in its form from double to common as its width was reduced. Double Sup was changed into single one and the narrow, short coat string into the long one as Jikryung became a dress needing less adjustment. The sleeves widened as the length of whajang increased. The side hem of Jikryung saw change in its shape from rectangular to trapezoidal one as its position was changed. Trapezoidal Moo was replaced by triangular one as the sleeve of Jikryung was changed in shape. 3. Changes in shapes of the parts of Jikryung influenced the aesthetic beauty of the dress itself In its first period, Jikryung was simple with long, slim silhouettes. In its second period, the dress was rich with increased volume. Finally in its third period, the dress was characterized by the harmony of simpleness and richness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.5
• /
• pp.87-101
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to identity the representative flower patterns in the Joseon Dynasty and investigate their chronological transitions. In the early Joseon Dynasty (i.e. 16th century), lotus patterns were very popular. Often lotus patterns were twisted around by ivy-leaves or decorated with treasures pattern in the margin. In the mid Joseon Dynasty (i.e. from 17th to mid 18th century), however, lotus patterns evolved from the typical lotus and ivy pattern and diversified into four types. In the 19th century, lotus pattern almost disappeared from the textiles of everyday dresses and were only found in the textiles of formal dresses or in special cases as in the cover pages of Buddhist scriptures. Poeny patterns was rarely used in textiles of 16th century, presumably because of the huge popularity of the lotus pattern. However, suddenly in the 17th century, Poeny patterns appeared quite frequently. There were 3 types of Poeny patterns. Poeny patterns became more popular over the years and it finally became a primary motive in textiles patterns for 100 years starting in the late 19th century. There were two types of Poeny patterns : one was realistic and true to life even in sizes, the other was more symbolic. Textile patterns combining four kinds of flowers started to appear from the late Koryo Dynasty but Flower patterns representing four seasons with distinct shapes appeared only in the 17th century. They could be categorized into three types. In the late 18th century, Flower patterns representing four seasons no longer appears in textile patterns, presumably due to a new preference for lucky omen over natural motives.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.31-41
• /
• 2013

By researching Western equestrian clothing, this study investigated the process in which styles of menswear are introduced into women's sportswear. In addition to women's equestrian clothing shown in paintings and illustrations kept in overseas museums, this study also analyzed books addressing 200 years of Western dress style history, from the late $17^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. The analysis data present the design characteristics of women's equestrian clothing according to different periods. A total of 21 works were used as research data: two from periods prior to the $17^{th}$ century, three from the $17^{th}$ century, ten from the $18^{th}$ century, and six from the $19^{th}$ century. The research results show that items of trendy menswear were commonly used in women's equestrian clothing during the late $17^{th}$ century - to be specific, in all forms of clothing worn on the upper body, including coat and cravat, tricomhat, and accessories. Women's equestrian clothing after the $18^{th}$ century took the form of menswear. However, the uniform was also generally worn with a fitted, tailored redingote on top of the robe, along with pants. In the $19^{th}$ century, women's equestrian clothing became longer in length, like men's styles. The uniform gradually lost volume, and the jacket became shorter and narrower. In addition, the drawers were replaced with pants that came down to the ankles, which were similar to men's trousers. Breeches also became knee - length, thus following the style of menswear. These results show that women's equestrian clothing, worn during horseback riding, a sport previously enjoyed by Western aristocrats, were similar to what men wore. Also, in contrast to the distinct differences seen between men's and women's daily clothing, the equestrian uniforms of women showed a tendency to follow the clothing style of men.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.231-241
• /
• 2009

Embroidery is one of the oldest methods of textiles surface decoration. The masterpiece "Tapisserie de Bayeux," is one of the earliest Medieval embroideries. Embroidery was popular on a broad scale with introduction of what was called Opus Anglicanum("English work") in the 13th century. France had been producing sophisticated embroideries since the 16th century. England was the country producing the greatest quantity of embroideries of the best quality in the 17th century. Until the 17th century, the Church was the most important patron of needlework. Then a shift in emphasis occurred towards the domestic embroidery. English 17th century domestic embroidery reached a high point of technical brilliance and charm. In France, embroidery was produced on hangings as well as costume. 18th century interest in embellishing the domestic environment, embroideries became much more finely detailed than those of the 17th century with the use of finer wool and silk threads. French silk were the finest in the world, and their embroidery was arguably equally fine both in furnishing textiles and on costumes. "Art Needlework" was the major movement in embroidery in the late 19th century. The Royal School of Needlework was founded in 1872, followed by similar institutions around Britan. Splendid fashion embroidery of French haut-couture that was represented to Lesage atelier in 20th century.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.43 no.3
• /
• pp.208-241
• /
• 2010

This study was conducted to examine the chronology of Taesil Seokham(Taesil Stone Boxes) stored in Taesil of the Joseon Palace and classify the styles to discuss how these boxes have developed. By doing so, this study defined the archaeological styles of taesil seokhams in the chronological order. Although taesil seokhams are placed when taesil are first created, they do not have any texts engraved on them and it is difficult to gain information only from examining taesil seokham. However, Taejiseok(memorial stones buried in Taesil) and Agibi(gravestones buried in Taesil) were created along with taesil. These resources were examined and compared with literature records to find when each taesil seokhams was created. The critical elements to consider for the chronological arrangement were both the cover and container of the boxes and the transition of their style could be classified into four major stages. In detail, the Joseon Dynasty's taesil seokhams initially inherited the style of the Goryeo Dynasty to be formed into rectangular boxes. Through the transition of the mid and late 15th Century, the semi-circular cover with cylindrical container became the popular style in the late 15th Century. In the late 16th Century, the style of the previous period was further developed to add some decorative elements, such as projecting ornaments, but the ornaments were added for functional purposes rather than artistic purposes. However, the style went back to the semi-circular cover with cylindrical container in the early 17th Century. From the mid 17th Century, various styles appeared with ornaments only on the cover, cone-shaped cover with no ornament, or mortar-like container. However, a new style of cone-shaped cover with ornament emerged between the early and mid 18th Century and continued to stay until the mid 18th Century. In the mid 18th Century, the cover remained unchanged, but the container became a keyhole-shaped space with one side forming a "ㄷ" shape. However, in the late 18th Century, the most typical style of the semi-circular cover with cylindrical container reappeared to show that this is the most universal style. Last, in the mid 19th Century, the cover changed from semi-circular to rectangular with flat top. After this, the taesil seokhams began to disappear. In terms of style, it can be classified into four stages. In the early Joseon Dynasty, the taesil seokhams were underdeveloped and inherited the style of the Goryeo Dynasty (Stage I; 1401~mid-15C), but Joseon's unique style began to develop from the late 15th Century (Stage II; 1477~1641). After that, partial ornaments were added for adornment (Stage III; 1660~1754), but the typical style reappeared in the late 18th Century to finally degrade in the late Joseon Dynasty of the mid 19th Century (Stage IV; 1790~1874). This arrangement of style and chronology would greatly help archaeologists anticipate the time and owner of taesil seokhams even if only taesil seokhams are discovered without any records. * Tae(胎) : Placenta and umbilical cord * Taesil(胎室) : A facility(chamber) of burying Tae(胎) in rite when royal descendants are born.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.26 no.4
• /
• pp.19-34
• /
• 2017

The purpose of this study was to comprehend the assignment and the procurement method of wood works' craftsman through the Salleung-dogamuigwes in royal tombs constructions in the late Joseon period. Following conclusions have been reached through the study. First, Carpenter and other nine craftsmen were introduced in carpentry works. The craftsmen were put in by occupation to maintain the quality of the government building construction by wood processing area. It was distinguished by frame member, Sujangjae, window framing wood, decorative member. Second, sawyer showed a sharp increase in the latter half of the 18th century and declined since the middle of the 19th century. This is closely related to the increase in demand for building materials and the growth of civilian wood products. As a maximum of 300 people have been assigned to the craftsmen in the woodwork, it can be seen that the work has been divided by the process. Third, the national carpenter was difficult to procure from the 17th century to the beginning of the 18th century. From the middle 18th century, the system procuring national carpenter was stabilized. In the 19th century, the input ratio of the national craftsmen seems to have decreased significantly and seems to have kept it at the minimum level. Forth, sawyer were procured through Seongonggam from the late 18th century through the mid 19th century. That means that the role of the sawyer had become important. Since Jogakjang is not a necessary manpower, it usually has civilian artisans.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
• /
• v.45 no.2
• /
• pp.221-239
• /
• 2010

The lineage village is a very characteristic form of village in Korea. Although it was known as having established on the base of the Lineage Law, the complexities of political and economical structures played an important role in the process of establishing the village. The continuous political struggles between the scholar officials forced them to abuse the blood ties as well as the academic and regional relation. Using the disorder of land ownership system, the ruling elite made chances to expand the private land ownership, and these became the fiscal background of the formation of the lineage village and the agglomeration. The capital area's lineage villages were used of fiscal background by scholar officials lived in Hanyang. In the reason of political struggle, the initiator came to Osan-ri in late 16th Century. And in early 17th century, with a government dignitary, Shin Kye-Young, and with the reproduction of population, Osan-ri formed a typical lineage village with many clan households in the late of 17th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.5
• /
• pp.71-86
• /
• 2008

The Purpose of this article is to study the excavated women's costume of the Joseon Dynasty, and to help identify the period of those costumes with the time of the burial unknown. The excavated women's costume is concentrated in 16th to 17th century, and the reason is due to the method of the burial. The characteristics of costumes from each period is as follows. The special features about 15th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong(round-collared jacket), Dae-gum style shirt(shirt with the squared collar facing each other), and skirt with horizontal dart. The 16th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong, wide Jegori with various length, skirt with horizontal dart, skirt with its hem folded, and pants with shoulder strap. In the 17th century, the formal dress changes to Won-sam from Dan-ryeong. The collar changes from the squared shape to the cut Dang-ko collar, and the skirt with its hem folded is not seen after the early 17th century. The long jacket changes to Dang-ui and gets settled, and the clothes becomes smaller and tighter. In the 18th century, the women's formal dress gets settled to Won-sam and Dang-ui, and the pants with shoulder strap is no longer seen. Jegori becomes shorter and smaller compared to those from the 17th century, and again gets wider and bigger in the late 18th century, and it leads to the change of making a big sized shroud.