In the history of the costume of Western Europe one of the most interesting apects is that the silhouette of women's dress has been continuously evolved. There can be various origins in this changing silhouette but the most important origin is that clothes of any period are the reflection of the architectural political religious and economic background against which they are worn they must also be djusted to the texture and design of the materials produced at the time and of course there is always the basic instinct of sex attraction. The changing line in men's and women's clothes has been demanded by each period but man's great active life did not required the development of exaggerated line which could restrict his movements. Exaggeration in men's clothes has usually been confined to accessories only details could be simplified or abandoned altogether in time of action. However Woman has no great concern in these restrivtions and when an era demanded an exaggerated silhouette she developed it to the utmost limit with out any hesitation plunged herself into whalebone cane and steel for the desired line and then later to adapt herself to a changing world just as without any hesitaion abandoned all these artificial props. In this study first of all the origin of the corset and the evolution of silhouette will be chronologically studied and rearranged on the basis of written materials such as text books theses and catalogs which are related to corset In this section the most important backgrounds-social religious and economic-which caused the chages of silhouette will be scrutinized in a time order. Then the shapes and functions of corsets will be looked into in a more detailed way. In addition the materials and decorations which were preferred to achieve the desired silhouette will be examined. Finally underwear which was and has been worn for cleanness protection the shapes of outer clothes and erotic mood will be studied.
Written simultaneously with Prometheus Unbound, Shelley's "Julian & Maddalo" is a masterwork of dramatic poiesis, of doubling embedded in its couplets, dialogic debate on human nature and contrasted symbolic emblems. The emblems mirror each other and are themselves sites of generative paradox: the "heaven illumined" but "dreary tower" of the Maniac and the glorious sunsets on the "ever-shifting sand" of the Lido, a wasteland that is a place of self discovery but also of "abandonment" and barren mingling figured, inter alia, in its "amphibious weeds," a trope of the poem's personae. This essay also explores the poem's dramatic structure and various rhetorical devices, beginning with the Preface, a threshold of complex identity disguise that Shelley uses for veiled self-presentation, as in "Alastor," mirroring and literary references replete with nuanced ironies. I focus mainly on the complex figures of liminality Shelley uses to develop his own thoughts (as well as his ongoing debates with Byron) about man's potential for growth in thought, insight and empathy, in political reform and interpersonal and individual healing. Advancing Shelley's most optimistic ideas, Julian, escorted by Maddalo observes the Maniac, -- a living ruin whose pained eloquence reveals the link of eros to poiesis and the limits of the latter's ability to 'transform a world.' The Maniac is the core of muse-work (remembering, thinking and song) and Shelley presents him as its emblem. He also is prefigured in and reflects the quintessentially liminal Lido with its "barren embrace" of sea and land. Yet it is less the Maniac's feeling that his grief is "charactered in vain…on this unfeeling leaf" than Julian's rationales for leaving the site of pain that point to Shelley's final comment on poetry's transformative limits. As the primary haploids of the drama's meiosis re-combine and two of them, Maddalo and the maniac fall away, an analogy I briefly develop and embedded in the erotic dynamics of poiesis, Shelley suggests, as he did at the beginning of his poetic lyricism in "Alastor" and at its end in "the Triumph of Life"that images mislead and delude; that "the deep truth is imageless" and redemption is not in but beyond figuration.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.38
no.5
/
pp.769-782
/
2014
This study considers the correlation between model pose and clothes in Patrick Demarchelier's fashion photos as well as expression characteristics. The conclusions of the study are as follows. The type of model pose in Patrick Demarchelier's fashion photos can be categorized into five types: maximized type of upper and lower body part, minimized type of upper and lower body part, maximized type of upper body and minimized type of lower body part, minimized type of upper body and maximized type of lower body part, basic type of upper and lower body part. In case of having examined the correlation between body movement and costume, the clothes in the model pose included in the maximization of the body were formed mainstream by silhouette, which was formed by decorative elements or full drapery. In the model poses included in the reduction of the body, the costume tended to expose many parts of the body to provide a simple or structural silhouette form. The costume was expressed in colorful form and poses assumed without body movements. The expression characteristics of the model poses in Patrick Demarchelier's fashion photos were sensuality, dynamicity, and simplicity. First, sensuality was expressed as feminine sensuality accompanying an erotic mood by naturally emphasizing a woman's breast or leg by reducing the body. Second, dynamicity provided a vividness to the image as if directly living and moving by highlighting the rhythmic aspect of the body. Simplicity aroused the effect of paying attention to clothes or other incidental elements rather than the image expressed by the body of a model by excluding body movement.
Young Tolstoy, when he was an already well-known writer, accomplished his first overseas travel in 1857, which gave him imaginable opportunities to compare his country's social strata with others such as serfdom, monarchical Russia and industrial and capital Europe. The present story is, indeed, the work which is influenced by those experiences by young Tolstoy during his first journey into Europe. Written in the form of booklet-like-small-piece, rather than an artistic work, the text presents the writer's severe criticism on the world of nature and civilization. Close to the nature itself, narod are those common people for Tolstoy, and they represent love, while the nature creates a necessity to love, hope and bottomless happiness of life. On the contrary, the civilized or civilization itself is considered artificial, willy, reasonal, and erotic congruity among people. For the writer, the most unsafe and ugly, seamy side of the westernized society is a lack of necessity to unify people to people. Though in its early embryonic stage, young Tolstoy's worldview is reflected in this work, especially his sharp tongue on the western people and their society is also detected when the write imposes his message under the mask of a gypsy singer. In addition, the narrator who seems an obvious Tolstoy's mouthpiece delivers his own ideas and impression on the western world, history, art, and literature. For this very reason, the present work contains numerous signs from which the reader is able to interpret, understand, and figure out what young Tolstoy imposes for his work.
This study systematically identified the influence of the school look fashion image on public culture, which is used for increasingly sexualized marketing appeal by domestic Girl Groups. We examined and analyzed the school look fashion image of Girl Groups, focusing on the Lolita complex which is particularly influential in the sexual appeal of domestic popular fashion. The method of this study is based on a literature review from the years 2007 to 2016, when the female girl groups began to receive attention. The music videos of the female girl groups in the top 100 charts of 'Melon' from 2006 to 2-16, which provides the largest mobile music service in Korea, were watched and analyzed as primary data. As a result, it was found that the 'school fashion look image' of adolescence which was used as costumes for Girl Groups, plays a role in commercializing the image of a 'girl', and the types and characteristics of school look fashion image are drawn in two ways. First, it is the image of a seductive Lolita complex. This is the case where young girls wear school look fashion image to emphasize their sexual maturity. Second, it is the case that is using the school look fashion image in order to perform with the 'young girl' concept, as an image of the enchanting Lolita complex; in addition, the erotic body image is more explicitly exposed through choreography and nakedness.
The psychiatric interview is not a random or arbitrary meeting between doctor and patient. It is a systematic attempt to understand the relationship of psychopathology to emotional conflicts in patient, and interviewing is an in rather than a science, a skill that can be acquired but probably not taught. The faculty of the Seoul National University Hospital, Department of Psychiatry, have been providing 12 sessions of seminar on Psychiatric Interview and Psychopathology every year for the first year residents for the past 15 years. The authors presented three cases materials with their understandings of psychopathology and psychodynamics, each of which the authors had performed live interviews for 50 minutes in front of the residents. Those are a young male with conversion disorder whose chief complaints was motor aphasia, a young college girl with paranoid schizophrenia whose chief complaints were persecutory and erotic delusions with auditory hallucination, and a climacteric female in delusional disorder who had a delusion of infidelity. The most frequent questions the residents raised after the presentations were on the significances of the first interview, danger of making the diagnoses with short interviews, and methodology of questionings and not-questionings. In reply the authors discussed the importance of understandings of psychopathology and psychodynamics, the flexibility of the techniques of interviewing, and priority-related matters in which the understanding of psychodynamics proceed to the diagnoses.
This paper analyzes the effect of the number of viewers and the number of running screens in the theater, genres of the movies and holdback period on the number of purchases movie VOD contents. In this paper, we deals with the 169 movies VOD consumption data which the digital cable TV subscribers purchased during the third quarter of 2013. As a result of the research, the average number of VOD purchases per each movie is 2,540. Regression analysis proves that the number of running screens and the holdback period are statistically playing a role of significance in movie VOD purchases. But the number of viewers in the theaters is not of significance. By genres, the result is shown as in this order: SF/fantasy 8,401 > dramas 4,011 > comedies 2,011 > action 1,789 > animation 1,138 > love story/melo 1,119 > horror/thriller 770 > erotic movies 636.
This study aims to shed light on the diversity and complexity of design represented through modern fashion and to identify growth opportunities for globalizing and modernizing traditional clothing designs. To this end, formative trends and aesthetic characteristics of $21^{st}$ century fashion were analyzed, with an emphasis on Japanism reflected in the works of Western designers. The research methodology consisted of an analysis as well as a literature review. A total of 217 designs with Japanism characteristics were identified from the 2001 S/S collection to the 2011 S/S collection in Paris, Milano, New York, and London, and these were analyzed in terms of image, color details, pattern, and accessories. The research findings with regard to the characteristics of modern fashion designs that reflect Japanism were as follows. First, sensuality was projected by highlighting the erotic elements of Japanese clothing. Second, the underlying principles, styles, and elements of Japan's traditional clothing were embodied in a cross-cultural and eclectic manner that blurred the boundaries between styles by mix-and- matching the traditional and the contemporary, the East and the West, and different styles. Third, a variety of patterns, colors, accessories, and design techniques associated with Japanese traditional clothing played a critical role in creating flamboyant and decorative images in contemporary fashion. Fourth, the overlapping of the kimono style, the flat design that accentuates body curves, and the layered style has created a beautifully free-form fashion that demonstrates non-structural features.
The present study was made to contribute to thed improvement of the quality of jeans wear advertising, and to the establishment of more effective advertising policy by which the jeans wear advertisements can go well with the unique charateristics of jeans wear. The study analyzed the consumer's attitude and dimention of affective responses toward jeans wear advertisements by type of appeal. The research was implemented through the survery with a representative sample of 344 consumers residing in Seoul. Means, Standard Deviation, ANOVA, Duncan Test, Facor Analysis and Regression were imployed to analyze the data gathered. The results of the study are as follows : (1) There are four dimentions of affective responses toward jeans wear advertisements ; upbeat-activation dimention, erotic-activation dimention, calm-emotional dimention, negative emotional demention. (2) According to consumer's sex, there are significant differences in each dimention of their affective responses. Toward sex-appeal advertisements, men show high degree of affective responses in upbeat-activation dimen-sion and calm-emotional dimension. (3) There is a probability that non-sex-appeal advertisement covers wider range of consumer than sex-appeal advertisements. (4) There is no significant different in affective responses towards both sex-appeal and non-sex-appeal advertisement of jeans wear between and among sex·age and involvement level of consumer. (5) Men prefer sex-appeal advertisement to non-sex-appeal advertisement, while there is no significant differences between the attitude of female consumers toward sex-appeal adver-tisement and non-sex-appeal advertisement. (6) In particular, age of 15∼18 and 30∼35 group of female consumer show very positive attitude toward sex-appeal advertisement. Therefore, there is a need to segment female jeans wear market by age groups. (7) According to the age and the involvement level of consumers, there is a significant differences in their attitudes toward advertise-ment. In case of male consumers, group of low level involvement prefer sex-appeal advertise-ment to non-sex-appeal advertisement. While high level involvement group did not show any significant differences between the attitude toward sex-appeal advertisement and the attitude toward non-sex-appeal advertisement. And the age of 15∼24, low level involvement group of female consumers also more positive attitude toward sex-appeal advertisement than toward non-sex-appeal advertisements.
The purpose of this study is to understand the concept of a sexual image and verify the method of its design expression through case studies of the sexual image evening dress shown in an Haute Couture Collection over the last 10 years (2005~2014). The results of analysis are as follows: First, "expression by the seeing through of the natural body" expressed a natural sexual image that combined fashion of the previous times with the beauty of the natural body by using a see-through material and classic or ethnic image. Second, "expression of a sexual-image look that emphasizes romantic detail" illustrated a romantic sexual image that emphasizes feminine sensitivity by mixing various ornamental elements such as see-through material and symbolism of underwear image. Third, "creation of a nude look using skin color" expressed sexual image of an evening dress by inducing erotic sexual association through a combination of opaque material of skin color and design shape that is intended for body exposure. Fourth, "combination of sexual symbol and heterogeneous elements" expressed a decadent, avant-garde and futuristic sexual images by using women's underwear and a sexual symbol as design motif and mixed with mismatching elements. Fifth, "use of a fantastic black image" expressed an exclusive and refined sexual image and a decadent and primitive sexual image by using a fantastic image of black color. The results of this study are expected to be used for the design process of the evening-dress industry that aims for quality improvement.
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