• Acta Via Serica
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.1-20
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• 2021

The Taq-i Bustan reliefs are representative works from the Sassanian dynasty of the 4th to 7th centuries. This study analyzes the costumes depicted in the Taq-i Bustan reliefs to gain understanding of the phenomena of cultural exchange between the East and West by observing the foreign cultural elements appearing in the Sassanian costumes of that time. Literature study and artifacts analysis were conducted in parallel. External elements appearing in Taq-i Bustan's costume were Greek-Roman and Central Asian. The tunics and trousers of the gods and the trousers of kings (Ardashir II, Shapur II and Shapur III) were made of thin fabric and showed many wrinkles, a characteristic of Greek and Roman clothing. On the spandrel above the arch of the great grotto of Khusrau II are depicted the goddesses of Victory, in a Greco-Bactrian style. Among the costume elements of Taq-i Bustan, there were also Central Asian elements observed. One Central Asian costume element was the round clasp ornament for tying the trousers. The side slits and hem of the tunic were presented in the style of the Sogd clothing of Central Asia in the 6th and 7th centuries, while the pearl rounded pattern was activated in Sogd, Kucha and Kizyl in the 7th and 8th centuries. These reliefs are considered important evidence of eastern influences in Sassanian culture.

• 복식
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• 제65권4호
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• pp.109-123
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• 2015

The object of this research is to take a bilateral look into cultural exchanges of the Netherlands and Japan through the East India Company and thereby improve the general understanding in regards to the exchanges of costume cultures between the East and the West. The study conducted qualitative analyses on features of contemporary costumes of the Netherlands and Japan from 1602 to 1799 by investigating the secondary sources, such as the histories of costumes, arts, and literature. The results are as follows; the traditional sleeves of the Japanese Kimono were basically cut out in a straight line. However due to the growing popularity of the kimono home gown in Europe, the producers of the kimono in India as well as several other European countries modified them into western-style sleeves. Regarding the costumes of the Netherlands, which were introduced to Japan, the study found that Japan imported Dutch fabrics, instead of specific clothing items. In Japan, costume controls and anti-conspicuous consumption regulations among social classes including a closed-door policy had negative effects on both developments and exchanges of costumes of the country. However, when it comes to the Jinbaori, a costume for ruling classes, Japan was open to using fabrics, patterns and designs of the West. In light of what have been discussed so far, the study confirmed that the costume exchanges between the two countries started long after their first business of the general cultural exchanges. Though it is clear that the advancements in the natural sciences that the Japanese made can be attributed to the West, Japan was one of the nations that impacted the costume cultures in Europe.

• 인문언어
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• 제6권
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• pp.295-320
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• 2004

$\ulcorner$Xixiangji[West chamber]$\lrcorner$ is one of the most popular Chinese dramas which was first translated into Korean by Chung-hee Kim in 1811. $\ulcorner$Dongsanggi[East chamber]$\lrcorner$is a Korean drama which was written in Chinese by Ok Lee in 1791. It adopted the form of Chinese traditional drama, $\ulcorner$xixianji$\lrcorner$. 1 think theses are very interesting examples which show how we accepted Chinese dramas through translation or modification and created our own dramas in the past. 1 quoted their names in the title because it is thought that they can represent the direction of the stream of cultural exchange between two countries in the past. The direction has recently changed. Han stream[Korean cultural effect] has become very powerful in whole Asia in last 10 years. Cultural exchange between Korea and China has been very steady and popular over 2000 years before the 20th century We used to have cultural identity by using Chinese character and accept many of the cultural aspects from China. Now, we are trying to reestablish the relationship which has been cut off for about 50years. In this paper I tried to retrospect the results of cultural exchange in the past and argue about the problems we are now facing by examining interchange or acceptance of the Chinese drama including translations and theatrical performances. 1 also tried to suggest the diverse ways of mutual exchange to uplift the cultural level of two countries.

• 복식
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• 제62권4호
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• pp.107-122
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes and developments that occurred as a result of the exchanges of gyeong-geum(經錦), a warp-faced compound weave of East Asia, and wie-geum(緯錦), a weft-faced compound weave of West Asia. In order to maximize the efficiency of this research, topics were narrowed down to the weaving skills and patterns, and the period was limited to the Tang dynasty. The systematic characteristics and differences of gyeong-geum and wie-geum were compared and contrasted through different works of literature. Then the excavated remains of geum-textiles were analyzed and the characteristics of the geum-textiles were defined in chronological order. The origin of wie-geum is traced back to the time when West Asia started to imitate the weaving style of the East Asian gyeong-geum. When combined with the weaving skills of the West Asian, gyeong-geum, which broke through the West and developed into the weft-faced compound twill silk, or samite. The exchange of geum-textiles took place as the techniques of gastric filament woven geum-textiles returned to the East. Along with the pearl roundel motifs of Sassanian Persia, mythical animals and western motifs of hunter patterns were used for the patterns of wie-geumin during the early Tang dynasty. This tendency is related to pa-sa-geum(波斯錦), ho-geum(胡錦), beon-geum(番錦) according to the recorded literature. The 8th and 9th century are periods when the West Asian Persian style was abandoned and the East Asian style, samite, was established. Not only did S twist silk threads replace Z twists, but also the repetition of patterns unfolded along with the weft and the warp. As this tendency was strengthened after the 9th century, the expression of patterns became more vividly colorful and showed both elements of naturalism and realism. The characteristics of the Bosangwha(寶相花) pattern in the Tang period were established with the rampantly repeated rosettes with birds often holding auspicious branches, that fly amid floral compositions.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.67-90
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• 2024

India, Southeast Asia in general, and Siam in particular share a long history of cultural and commercial relations. Located in each other's extended neighbourhood, India and Thailand have a shared maritime boundary in the Andaman Sea. Situated in the strategic position, midway between West Asia on the one hand and East Asia on the other, India and Siam combined played a significant role in the maritime transactions in Asia and beyond. The geographical proximity between India and Siam led to multifaceted maritime interactions and exchanges. Siam was in the Indian sphere of cultural, religious, philosophical, technical, and linguistic influence much before the Common Era. The cultural and mercantile networks between India and Siam are well-attested by archaeological and literary sources. The archaeological findings in Siam and other Southeast Asian countries have revealed the dynamic trade and cultural exchange between India and Southeast Asia since the pre-Common Era. The Takola (modern Takua Pa) area served as a more suitable landing place for Indian merchants and there existed the settlement of the Indian mercantile community. Ligor (Nakhon Si Thammarat), Jaya (Chaiya), Patalung (Phatalung), U Thong, Ban Don Tha Pet, Ban U Taphao, Khao Sam Kaeo, and many other sites in Siam have brought to light a large variety of objects which demonstrate that ancient Siam had close mercantile contact with India as well as the Mediterranean world and China. The paper discusses in detail the cultural and trade links between India and Siam and their impact on the Maritime Silk Road.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제52권2호
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• pp.38-61
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• 2019

20세기 초반까지 독일 고고학에서는 유물 유적에 대한 객관적이고 섬세한 관찰을 중시하는 연구 경향과 어느 정도의 민족주의 혹은 자민족 우월주의의 입장에서 물질문화의 연구를 통해 과거의 민족 혹은 종족의 자취를 찾아 그들의 시공간적 범위를 확정하려는 시도가 공존하고 있었다. 2차 세계대전이 끝나고 독일이 동서로 분열된 이후 구 서독에서는 전통적인 독일 고고학의 전통을 계승하여 유물 유적의 관찰과 목록화, 그리고 편년과 분포의 확인에 집중하였다. 구 동독에서는 맑스주의의 사적 유물론에 입각한 역사의 합법칙적 발전 과정을 물질 자료를 통해 입증하려는 시도와 함께 과거의 문화유산이 갖고 있는 역사적 가치를 사회주의의 이념에 충실하거나 혹은 그 발전에 기여한 정도에 따라 평가하고자 하였다. 그럼에도 불구하고 구 서독과 구 동독의 고고학은 분열 이전의 독일 고고학의 전통을 상당히 공유하고 있었다. 분열 이후에도 고고학자들의 교류가 어느 정도 지속되고 있었고 구 동독의 고고학이 구 서독의 고고학, 그리고 유럽 고고학 전체에서도 인정받을 수 있는 의미 있는 나름의 연구 성과를 내고 있었다. 이러한 사실을 바탕으로 동 서독 고고학의 통합이 제도적인 측면에서는 어느 한쪽에 의한 일방적인 통합이었다는 한계에도 불구하고 양자가 비교적 단시일 내에 통합을 완성할 수 있는 계기를 마련하게 되었다. 한국의 경우에도 고고학 연구와 문화유산 보존의 측면에서는 공통의 연구사적 전통을 공유하고 상호 교류(공동 조사와 학술 교류 등)에 더욱 노력할 필요가 있다. 비록 맑시즘과 주체사상에 의거한 형식화된 해석이라 하더라도 이를 비판적으로 검토하여 필요한 경우 받아들이려는 열린 마음을 통해 남북한 고고학 및 문화유산 보존의 간극을 점차적으로 줄여나가는 작업은 더 이상 미룰 수 없는 과제라고 할 수 있다. 독일의 사례는 이러한 작업을 보다 효율적으로 진행하는 데 나름의 시사점을 던져줄 수 있으리라 생각한다.

• 한국철학논집
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• 제54호
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• pp.9-42
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• 2017

한국사회의 동서 지역 갈등을 극복하는 지속적인 소통 노력은 여전히 필요한 일이다. 이러한 노력의 일환으로 과거 한국 역사에 내재한 왜곡과 갈등의 역사를 수정하는 지속적인 노력이 필요하며, 이러한 가운데 한국철학사상사 인식에서도 일반인들의 왜곡된 이해를 바로잡는 노력이 필요하다. 과거에 조선시대 한국 성리학에 대한 일반인의 이해는 학파와 지역을 연계하여 영남학파 기호학파로 양분하고, 다시 학파와 정파를 연계하여 영남학파-남인, 기호학파-서인으로 양분하여, 이 양자를 지속적인 갈등 관계로 인식하는 경향이 많다. 이러한 왜곡된 이해는 수정되어야 한다. 동서(東西) 개념과 이와 연관한 학문 분화, 정치 갈등에 내재한 오해와 과장된 갈등 구조는 수정되어야 한다. 선조때 정치권이 동서(東西) 분당(分黨)이 되었는데, 이 때의 동서는 서울 내에서의 동서 지역을 의미하며, 영남(동)과 기호(서)가 아니다. 당시의 동서 분당과 영호남 지역인의 지역 분열은 관계없는 일이다. 사실 한국 성리학을 대표하는 많은 유학자들이 학파-정파-지역을 넘어 친밀하게 교류한 사례가 많다. 조선 중기의 조식과 성운, 이황과 기대승, 이황과 이이, 노수신과 이이, 조선 후기의 정경세와 김장생, 정경세와 송준길, 조선말의 곽종석과 김복한 등 당대를 대표하는 선비들은 서로 인격 존숭과 학문 교류에 기초한 친교가 깊었다. 이들 기호 영남 인사들의 친교 사례는 조선 선비들의 인격과 학문과 정신세계의 높은 수준을 표현하고 있다. 오늘날 이러한 한국 전통의 정신적 문화적 무형 자원을 적극 활용해야 한다. 앞으로 영남(경상)-경기-호남(전라)-호서(충청) 지역의 선비들의 교류와 소통 사례를 더욱 발굴 홍보하여 영호남 화합의 정신문화적 토대로 활용해야 한다. 그 구체적 활용 방안으로는 동서 유학자들의 친교와 관계된 양 지역 지자체의 기관 교류, 공동 기념행사, 양 지역 유학자들의 명가(名家) 교류, 양 지역 박물관의 동서 화합 특별전 개최, 지역 축제 공동 개최, 공동 문화 프로그램 운영, 양 지역의 서원교류 등 선현들의 교류를 홍보하고 공동 사업으로 활용해야 한다.

• 복식
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• 제65권8호
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• pp.136-150
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• 2015

The purpose of this thesis is to elucidate the exchange between the East and the West during the 17th century through analyzing the oriental influences described in paintings in Delft school, a trade port of East India Company. The scope of this study focused on the 37 pieces of works by Johannes Vermeer and 31 pieces of the paintings by Pieter de Hooch, which are all the existing work, as analysis targets. The resources of this study were from previous papers about the history of costumes, paintings and culture, Internet sources and other qualitatively analyzed articles. The items that the study looked into were Delft porcelains and Delft tiles, Turkey carpets, costumes and accessories pearl earrings and headdresses. The study looked into oriental factors observed in each of these items, and analyzed them. In terms of oriental factors that are frequently observed in paintings, porcelains (100%), Deft tiles (100%), pearl earrings (100%) and (most) carpets (92.3%) turned out to have oriental nature, but this was not the case with head dresses (7.7%) and clothing (0.3%). These results happen to coincide with the previous investigation in that the oriental factor was reflected in the culture first, while the effects on costumes significantly lagged behind. This progress in cultural exchange can be seen through the noted use of Chinoiserie, a technique that is representative of the Chinese culture, in the 18th century. Through Japonism, the influence of Japanese culture into Europe was introduced, in detail, in 19th century. These results suggest that there are sufficient amount of sources that could be used to study the effect of orientalism to the Western culture. This study intends to look at how the oriental culture affected those of Europe by researching the Delft school of Netherlands during the 17th century.

• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.138-150
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• 2005

Phrygia headgear has an important meaning from the perspectives of costume history and cultural exchanges in ancient times. This study is to investigate the prototype of Phrygia headgear through analysis of its manufacturing methods and styles on the basis of prior studies on ancient sculptures and literatures conducted by European researchers and to examine its history and meanings. In these ways, this study will be helpful in understanding the importance of Phrygia headgear in cultural exchanges between the East and the West. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Phrygia headgear was orn by eastern tribes, so it was a symbol of those from the east in ancient times. Phrygia headgear is frequently found in Greek artistic works of 5th to 4th century BC that depicted eastern tribes. Also, this headgear can be observed in artistic works for Mithras, Attis, or other gods. Since Phrygia headgear's shape is similar to that of Homer's helm, many researchers believe that it might be originated from Homer's helm. This headgear made of oxen scrotum(stierbeutel) or its surrounding skin has a long end at the top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we can draw a conclusion that Phrygia headgear was made of oxen scrotum and its surrounding skin. Dependingy on drooping patterns, there are various shapes, such as the round, tightly swollen one worn by Mithras, the tongue-shaped one found in Basilika S. Apolinare Nuovo's mosaic depicting three wise men, the balloon-shaped one frequently found in Greek vases depicting Scythian, and the one drooping to the side depicted in Alexandersarkophag. Further, some Phrygia headgear has covers for neck and ears. For example, Phrygia headgear worn by Persian Satrap tribe has such covers attached to the head part. Meanwhile, Phrygia headgear worn by Amazone tribe does not show such separate covers, Rather, one piece of oxen skin was tanned and finished to make such covers. Wearing Phrygia headgear can be interpreted in several ways. Use of animal's skin for wearing things is a unique aspect in ancient societies because they believed that wearing animal skin would give them power of the animal. Further, Phrygia headgear made of oxen scrotum was a symbol of reproductive power to women.

• 복식
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• 제57권6호
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• pp.101-111
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the features of the conversational patterns presented on the fashion in the early 2000's and analyze it from cultural view. The expression of the patterns is a result of a creative aesthetic activity, mental activity, and the reflection of the common cognition. And the fashion is a part of the life environment. So the patterns presented on the fashion provides a clue to figure out the common unconscious sense for explaining the culture. The patterns have been expressed with different methods belonging to each culture such as weaving and prints. And those of the each cultural group have been communicating each other. The silk came to the Europe in the 6th century. The textile industry which flourished since 15th century. And they shows the chinoiserie or indian prints, not only the european culture. We can observe that the exchange of the techniques and cultures between cultural groups like the east and the west, and the presentation of the patterns is a way to express their own desires. The patterns presented after 2,000 can be classified by the form and the contents. But, more specifically, the patterns classified by the contents, which is Conversational design, can be categorized as followed according to the origin; reflecting cultural identity, Popular culture, Lohas lifestyle, and art movements. Which can be summarized as that the people have more interest on the different cultural group, diversity, retrospectiveness, and exoticism, which the patterns originally belonged to than on the form itself.