• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.105-117
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• 2006

The purpose of this research was to understand the process of American women's adoption of knickerbockers from the mid-nineteenth to the early twentieth century. Articles and advertisements related to women's knickerbockers found from The New York Times were used as primary sources. Before 1920, women wore knickerbockers when they participated in sports including gymnasium, bicycling, and swimming. Knickerbockers were mostly worn with overskirts when women appeared in the public. Therefore, knickerbockers were categorized as underwear in the advertisements until the late 1910s. However, knickerbockers were even worn on the streets and in offices after American women gained suffrage in 1920. As more women adopted knickerbockers during the 1920s, the public criticisms and regulations on women's knickerbockers intensified. However, the articles on women's knickerbockers gradually disappeared from The New York Times, as they went out of fashion by the end of the 1920s. Considering the social situation and the change in womanhood during the period, I concluded that American women's adoption process of knickerbockers reflected the increase in women's mobility, and the change in gender roles and the definition of femininity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.651-664
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to first examine the relationship between appearance-enhancing beauty practices and feminism, and secondly, to analyze public images of contemporary women using this paradigm. Through the lens of this relationship, we present a literature review and empirical research focusing on the evolution of public image trends among girl groups, with special attention to the Refund Sisters, a South Korean supergroup currently drawing mainstream attention as female icons. The scope of analysis includes girl groups dating from the 1990's to the year 2020 and photos of the Refund Sisters. Our results indicate that firstly, free sexual expression is evident based on active use of sexuality; images contain bold demonstrations of females desire, expressions previously considered taboo. Secondly, we note deviations from more standardized female images, unique adornment of outward appearance, and rejection of normative female images through freer forms of self-presentation. Lastly, there is greater cultural and racial diversity, rejection of modern race and gender binaries, and increased representation of queer identities. However, the relationship between appearance-enhancing beauty practices and feminism is sometimes considered paradoxical, with some arguing that beautifying one's outward appearance is a compulsory strategy and that it should be rejected in order to resist aesthetic pressure.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.588-599
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• 2016

The primary aim of this study was to analyze the fashion trend of wearing T-shirts with slogans at home and abroad and to consider the social influence of these shirts on fashion. The research method was based on the documentary method and the existing literature, and the study range was limited to the period from the middle of the 20th century to the present. Slogan T-shirts played important roles because they make the wearers highly visible wherever they go. T-shirts with slogans not only intentionally expressed the wearers' views on multiple social issues but they also made those issues more visible, thereby encouraging society to deal with them. The T-shirts also helped to form a social consensus regarding the issues. For this reason we referred to slogan T-shirts as 'the social fashion' in this research. Regarding the results, the research found that T-shirts with slogans were a social fashion that conveyed real political slogans and thus influenced people's political beliefs. Second, they politicized the issues in public interests with the public perspective. Third, the purpose of slogan T-shirts was to help people express their personality publicly and thereby bond with other people who held similar sympathies. Furthermore, the T-shirts conveyed multiple meanings in each message.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.124-139
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• 2019

The purpose of this study was to examine the characteristic expression of Korean traditional costumes shown in the Korean paintings by Kim Hyun-Jung. The study analyzed the paintings by Kim Hyun-Jung to find out the characteristics of the contemporary Korean paintings and the expression of Korean traditional costumes. The characteristics of Kim Hyun-Jung's works are as follows: 1) The paintings are drawn by using Korean traditional painting methods and finished with Korean traditional paper, hanji. Moreover, they show the Korean traditional costume as main subject material. 2) They use modern painting methods, such as collage, and show pop art characters by use of contemporary popular products. 3) The artist communicates with the public through SNS and YouTube, and shows characteristics of popular art through commercial art products and advertisements. The characteristics of the Korean traditional costume in Kim Hyun-Jung's works are as follows. 1) The hanbok shown in the paintings is a traditional style with tight jeogori and wide chima. Chima is drawn in thin coloring with Korean ink and jeogori is expressed with semi-transparent hanji in various patterns and colors, which shows the subject 'coy'. 2) Various kinds of Korean traditional accessories and modernized flower shoes with high heels are shown as subject materials. The art works by contemporary Korean artists are expected to be the route to give valuable information to the public about Korean traditional costumes as well as the trendy Korean culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.839-853
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• 2016

This study proposes that Malevich's 1913 performance "Victory Over the Sun" was not just Cubo Futurism, but that it produced Suprematism in the early 20th century. "Victory Over the Sun" did away with traditional set and costume design and a call to the Russian avant garde. Therefore, this study analyzes the characteristics of set and the costume design in "Victory Over the Sun", and considers how it impacted twenty-first century fashion designers like Margiela. The results of the study are as follows: first, Margiela reinterpreted the characteristics of the costumes featured on "Victory Over the Sun" from a cubist perspective and represented geometric spatial structures and mechanical human images through changes in methods and materials. second, he designed costumes by applying to the set and costumes expressed black & white images on "Victory Over the Sun". and third, Margiela reinterpreted the warrior image using geometric forms and colors in a creative way. Contemporary fashion designers, including Margiela, express their artistic creativity through various representational and materials choices. They want to convey their subjective personality and emotional sensibility to the public by mixing and deforming existing arts like painting, sculpture, and crafts to create new images. Thus, the creative intentions of the latest fashion designers have expanded art of costume design, exemplifying the process by which art is evolves and is made new.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.90-107
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• 2007

Modernization movement has affected classical operas. Today, classical operas are often re-interpreted from the modern perspective and played differently only with the storyline maintained. Also, operas are increasingly performed outside traditional theaters as the boundaries between stage and audience become less obvious. Accordingly, stage costumes are being differently designed than before. New attempts are being made to look costumes in a harmony with increasingly streamlined stage machinery. This helps increase public attention on operas, consequently promoting the opera industry. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust," which was played in Sungnam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes of the crowd are drawn from this study. A variety of splendid pink dresses, ribbons, dolls, hand mirror, and hair bands were used to express haughty girls with "Princess Syndrome." Fashion models, the envy of all woman, wore fashionable clothes including luxury dresses, fur-coats, high heels, purses, and hats, Models also had big shopping bags and gift boxes to symbolize shopping lovers in a modern society. Gay men wore tight leather trousers and vest and sleeves shirts with deeply cut neckline to express their preference for feminie style. their clothes were splendid colors that normally women liked such as gold, purple, light green, scarlet, and silver. Soldiers were in combat uniform representing their participation in the war. In particular, clothes stained with dirt, iron helmet, crutches, and canteens were used to vividly express soldiers coming back home from the war. Modern opera costumes now help reduce the time and space between stage and audience, improve economic efficiency, and meet the audience's needs for various style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.17-31
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• 2006

This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.37-46
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• 2004

'Fleeting fragrance: the history, preservation and display of perfumed clothes' Fragrance - like style - is one of the intangible aspects of costume history that we often wish had been preserved. Garments were perfumed both to impart a pleasurable impression and to mask disagreeable odors from use or from production processes such as tanning and dyeing. Expensive gloves were traditionally perfumed, as well as lace collars, silk stockings and shawls. Both historical and modern attempts have been made to create scents that please the wearer and attract the oppoiste sex, while (preferable) also repelling osquitoes and moths! Unintentional perfuming also occurred, which we sometimes may be lucky to find in our museum collections. How do we describe and identify the transient odors of museum objects, and at what cost can they be preserved and presented for the public? This lecture includes samples of reconstructed historical scents presented in costume exhibitions at the Royal Danish Collections.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.125-133
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• 2006

Metro-Sexual is one of the most representing case showing contemporary life style of men that rooted into public already. The fundamental feature of this Metro-Sexual is the conversion of men's costume style to womanness which also could be seen from the history of clothes. The former works about sexual image, expression of sexual identity, androgynous and borderless phenomenon have been referred as base of this work. To analyze Metro-Sexual in modern social/cultural factors through such existing works will be critical part of understanding entire fashion trend in this day beyond sexual limit. As research method, former works, references, various fashion magazines and fashion related sites was used to grasp conception and womanity of Metro-Sexual. In a limited time interval from $2001{\sim}2006$ for practical work, silhouette, detail, trimming, colors, items, patterns and accessories were analyzed selected from famous S/S, F/W men's fashion collection magazine and internet site of professional fashion institute. It is obvious that Metro-Sexual already spread out in men's fashion based on such social/cultural background as new century's icon that regarded as critical factor in researching contemporary men's fashion and of the future.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.77-77
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• 2003

If we look closely to the power shift of the powerful countries historically. during the 16th century Spain's power came from gold, colony trade, the mercenary force, close relation with the thrown, 17th century Netherlands owes their power to trade, capital market, the marines, 18th century France owes it to population, agriculture, public administration, and the army. Also, England had their industry, political unity, finance and trust, the marines, liberalistic principles, a geographical merit of being an island which can be defended well and the 20th century America has their cosmopolitan culture, supernational communication, the capacity of the economy, science technology, military strength, alliances, liberalism international formation. But in the 21st century culture and art will prevail over the information age where technology and knowledge was the key, and it is predicted that this will be the source of power for a strong country. Rolfe Yesson, the head of The Copenhagen Research Center for future studies said, "Information age has ended and in the future Dream Society will arrive which focuses on making distinctions by delivering dreams and emotions to consumers". As cyberspace gradually substitutes reality, cyberspace has become more than an information search engine and has become a place where people fulfill their desires and exchange culture. And as a medium for diffusing culture, the importance of the digital dress-up avatar is predicted to increase gradually.gradually.