• Title/Summary/Keyword: the costume of the public

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The Convergence of Literature & Movie in - The Impact of Computer Graphics (<위대한 개츠비>에서 만난 문학과 영화의 융합 - 컴퓨터 그래픽이 미치는 영향)

  • Choi, Sun-Wha
    • Journal of Convergence for Information Technology
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    • v.7 no.4
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    • pp.121-127
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    • 2017
  • In 2013, Baz Luhrmann's movie re-made Fitzgerald's novel, "The Great Gatsby". In Novel, readers keep trace of the plot with their imagination, but in Movie , movie director comes together to create visual and auditory elements of it. Daisy Buchanan is a fashion icon, wearing Prada, Chanel, and Tiffany's jewelry, which reproduce the costume of Jazz Age, and make viewers well understand that of Jazz Age. Symbols like "Ash Valley", "Green light", "East Egg", "West Egg" are presented more directly in movie. Roaring parties held in Gatsby's great mansion was made by computer graphic, and its enormous scale also reflects the mental chaos and the material affluence in those age. Additionally, actors excellent show highlights the theme of the novel. With the adaptation of novel, the film finally achieves more appealing art in front of the public. This thesis investigates these more logistically with the materials of internet.

The Vogue about Outwearization of Underwear in a Tendency to the Century-end (세기말 현상으로 본 속옷의 겉옷화 현상)

  • 이상례
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.35
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    • pp.325-341
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    • 1997
  • One of the noticeable trends of female wear in 1990s is the Outwearization of Underwear as it is called 'Lingerie look' This trend meaned 'Exposure Fashion' raised splendidly its head to the whole stage of fashion destrying the tradional concept having divided the fashion between outwear and underwear by Madonna an Americal populer singer showed up in front of the audience wearing the corset-dress as a stage custome. This corset-dress which can not be recognised whether it is underwear or outwear has been diffused into the mass as a fashionable trend re-gardless of any reason; therefore discrimi-nation of wear by space by far that is underwear should have the sstandard telling between private and public sector has been gradually tumbled. By the way what has propelled desigers to introduce the style continuously having the underwear motive such as outwear almost as same as underwear or underwear worn on out-wear etc. and has made it a fashion trends? How do we accept this "Ligerie look'fashion" The rearch on vogue of outwearization of underwear started by the questions above can be summarized as the followings The division between the sprit and the ma-terial-economic shrinkage by the collapse of the bubble economy in the late of 20 century and expectation for the next century doubt by changes of international politics dynamics for the next century and increasement of psycho-logical tention by the environmental destruc-tion etc, has been extended to break the sense of value down These frustration of the tra-ditional values and dissatisfaction on the pres-ent have reflected on the fashion pursuing some more sensational style to increase the ex-posure of the body. The revolution of wearing bouncing the con-servatismhas outwardly expressed underwear of the private sector. Therefore the spatial concept of wear which for the public sec-tor has been fallen into pieces and has broken the wall of the concept fixed by outwear on underwear. in addition the stage costome for the popular people like Madonna has not been limited by the specularity any more and has been assimilated with the normal wear on the street to take the distinction for away. The circumstances of the late of 20 century pursuing sensation and making sex commer-cialized have accordance with the outweari-zation of underwear. there it is on the basis of Minimalist's dogmatism has been expressed the maximization of expoure in the pubric space to popularize bra pants(knickers) as outwear. The reaction on the attribute of hiding and shanding has brought 'See-Through fashion' with the transparent materials, The contemporary doubt recalling the mem-ory of the past has sublimated corset which was an instument of toture for women into Romanticism to introduce it to fashion with the development of a new material not to be a tool of any oppression and maltretment any longer. The popularization of outwear like underwear what's more has brought high quality of underwear. There it has called for the variety of materials such as knit demin and velvet etc, and has urged the famous designers to enlarge their working boundaries to underwear designs, Besides outwearization of underwear has been popular even in the Orient which has the con-servative opinions on exposure ; so changes of the thoughts can be seen among the establish-ment generation on exposure of the body. As the more high tech information publi-cized and the more technology and media digitalized the more expression being analog the pursue for the new in fashion with vision never been seen and even though it is imprac-tical the experimental designers have drived the freedom beyond the traditional roles of the previous century. Consequently outwearization of underwear may be viewd as a trial as an expression responded the contemporary background. This trend in my opinion will have been lasted for a while by being proliperlated among lasted for a while by being proliperlated among the pub-lic who has the century-end anxiety and doubt and expectation for the next century.

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A Study on the Culture of Incense in the Period of T'ang (당대 향문화 연구)

  • Chun Hea-Sook;Lee Ae-Ryun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.7 no.3
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    • pp.113-127
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    • 2005
  • From the ancient times, incense was used for various usages including a means of beauty expression with flavor, a medicine for disease treatment and a device for religious event or ritual. The period of T'ang was the times when cultural and material exchanges with foreign countries were very actively made under the political openness of the Chinese nation. Here the exchanges were made mainly through inland trade, called Silk Road(絲綢之路) and marine trade routes, Incense Road(香料之路). This indicates that incense was one of the main items actively traded at that time. In addition, literatures of the T'ang period show that in the Chinese nation, a wide range of classes from the imperial family to the public used incense for many different purposes. This suggests that the culture of incense was deeply prevailed and very socially significant in T'ang. This study investigated social factors that promoted the incense culture of T'ang and the applications and types of incense widely used in the period of T'ang. First, influential religions and the openness of sex culture were main social factors that made incense culture flourish in the period of T'ang. Above all, two main religions of the Chinese nation, Buddhism and Taoism became secularized under political protection by the imperial family. As Buddhism was popularized, the Buddhist ritual of incense burning made a contribution to making public incense culture. Providing its doctrines of eternal youth and eternal life, Taoism necessarily used incense to form a Taoistic climate. The flourishment of the foresaid religion in T'ang added more fuel to that of incense culture in the Chinese nation. The openness of sex culture brought about the Inauguration of the empress, improvement in female position and free relationships between man and woman. It was accelerated by sexology as a method of eternal youth provided by Taoism. The opened culture also developed the culture of kibang where female entertainers called kinyeo consumed lots of incense for decoration and sexual desire stimulation. These open climates of T'ang society made a great contribution to making incense culture, especially for decoration, prevailed throughout the Chinese nation. Second, types of incense prevailed and widely used in the period of T'ang included olive incense, germander(廣藿香), olibnum(乳香), myrrh Resinoid(沒藥), jia Xiang(甲香), clove(丁香) and Shen xian(沈香), all of which were imported from foreign nations and had various applications. Specifically, olive incense, germander(廣藿香), olibnum(乳香) and myrrh Resinoid(沒藥) were used for religious purposes while, jia Xiang(甲香), clove(丁香) and Shen xian(沈香) for the purposes of religion and decoration. In conclusion, a number of social factors including political, religious and medical purposes and the openness of sex culture set fundamentals on which the culture of incense was extensively developed and established as a social trend in T'ang. In the Chinese nation, incense culture was not just an option for taste, but a part of life style social members needed to know. People of T'ang not only enjoyed incense mainly for purposes of religion, pleasure and make-up, but also had the wisdom to know various effects of incense, curiosity about such new things and the will to imitate and pursue alien culture, resultantly flourishing incense culture. Thus the culture of incense represented many social aspects of T'ang.

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A study on ceremonial costume and Confucianism is Chosun Dynasty - Focusing on Men's Po - (조선시대(朝鮮時代) 유교사상(儒敎思想)과 의예복연구(儀禮服硏究) - 남자(男子) 포(袍)를 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Lee, Sun-Jae
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.16
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    • pp.221-229
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    • 1991
  • This thesis aims at reviewing the wearing aspect and formation of Chosun ceremonial dresses for meal and finding out the thought reflected by them from the standpoint that dresses themselves should be taken as one of the phenomena in culture. That is men's ceremonial costumes and confucian costumes of the royal family and the gentry family in Chosun is reviewed focused on the formation and the wearing aspect of Po, Which is a kind of them. And in the context of the phase of the times. I also considered the thoughts reflected on the clothes such as confucianism, Ying & Yang Theory, and the symbol and the thoughts of patterns in relation to the clothes. Confucian influence was the main force for the Chosun prohibitions for clothes. The major reasons for the prohibitions for clothes were as follows. First, they reflected confucian Chung myoung chooui(the principle that everything should be where it belongs). That is the prohibitions for clothes were used in the means to maintain feudalistic social order. influenced by social rank system. Second, they reflected confucian ethics in the means to recover social disciplines with the maintenance of traditional customs. This shows well in the restriction of luxurious items in dressing included the prohibitions for clothes. Third, they reflected Chosun's toadysm toward China. With the influx of Chinese style of dressing then government even changed the style of uniforms for public officials into that of Chinese resulting in dual styles of dressing. Ying & Yan Theory greatly affected the colors of Korean clothes and reflected toadysm toward China. too. The theory was embodied by prohibition of such colors for clothes as white, gray, and jade green. I reviewed the twelve patterns on Myunpok, Ten-Longivity patterns and Four-Gracious plants patterns in order to analyze the symbolism and thoughts of patterns for clothes. Nansam, Dopo, and Shimui worn by confucian scholars ensures that those clothes bears confucianism and philosopical factors. As shimui was worn by many people it appears in Chosun scholars' studies and a Chinese book called "Yeki". I reviewed the origin, procession, and ornaments of four ceremonial clothes and tried to find out the confucianism in them. First, In Kwanrei (the coming-of-age ceremony) remained ancestor worship and respect for manners. The clothes for this ceremony granted the rights and responsibilities of and adult to the wearer. The royal Kwanreipok had different dresses for each rank. As Samgapok, the crown prince wore Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for the first ritual, Wonryukwan and Kangsapo for the second, and Myunrukwan and Konpok for the third. The rank of the King's grandson was lower than the crown prince's. This example shows that Chosun people respected manners and thought the basic confucianism "God and people are equal." at the Royal court. Second, as Honreipok(wedding gown), the crown prince wore Myunrukwan and Konpok for Daereipok, Wonyukwan and Kangsapo for Napjing and Tongwoo, and Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for Chekbinui. But common people were allowed to wear an official outfit only for wedding in the means of congratulation on the most important day of their life. Wedding gowns which reflected Ying and Yang Theory emphasized the thought that union of a man and a wife is the most important event in life. Third, Sangrei(funeral) was the last ritual of a human being to send off the deceased. The mourning dresses expressed lamentation of the people left behind. Five-Dress-System for each the relative degree of familarity showed the solemnity and formality, which represented the formality of confucianism and ancestor worship. I reviewed the mourning dresses by dividing them into royal, Yangban's, and commons. They were featured by the fact that there was only one style for every walk of life. It is construed that anyone in mourning can wear the same clothes since he feels the same way regardless of his social rank. Fourth, Chereipok(sacrificial rite dresses) had different styles for each social rank. The King wore Myunpok(Kuryumyun and Kujangpok) were recorded to be worn first in the fourth year of King Taecho's ruling. The crown prince wore Palryumyun and Chiljangpok for sacrificial rite dress which was finally settled when King Sejong was in power. Common people wore Dopo, Shimui for the rite dress in the beginning of the Chosun Era and wore Dopo after Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. In conclusion, confucianism played the main role in ceremonial dress system of Chosun and that was because it emphasized the ethics of action in life, which was different from other religions. It is true that cause-oriented thoughts and Chung myoung chooui in confucianism drove all ceremonies to extreme manners, discriminating the people who belonged to the lower social rank, and resulting in extremly luxurious life style. However, they also created a unique trend and clothes culture in the Chosun Era. I wish that this thesis provieds important information and direction for furthur studies in the future.

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Study on Image of Femme Fatale represented on Costumes in the Movie 'Chicago' (영화 '시카고'의 의상(衣裳)에 나타난 팜므 파탈 이미지 연구(硏究))

  • Kim, Ji-Young;Kan, Ho-sup
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.16-33
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    • 2004
  • Up to now, image of femme fatale has undergone constant transformation to be inherited and developed through various genres of movies. With few exceptions such cases have represented sensuality of women by costumes with the most distinctive and exaggerated sexuality. Temptresses in movies are mostly drawn as extravagant and gorgeous one or a gloomy and dreary woman. Such an image is reinforced with make-up, hair style, accessories, attitude and manner of talking. The movie 'Chicago' is a musical film that crosses the boundaries of reality and fantasy with dancing and singing. Its lighting, stage setting, powerful and sexy dancing augmented already exaggerated and sensual costumes. Following is the analysis of costumes for two heroines as images of femme fatale. Strong contrast of color among black, red and blue on see-through & stickingly tight body suit signifies liberal mind and arrogant charisma of Velma. The contrast, haughty gestures, cropped black hair and thick makeups represent sex appeal, aggressive image, and fearlessly determined character of femme fatale. Roxie wears decent dresses in front of public and gorgeous stage costume in fantasy to convey two images of bad girl and angel. Her body suit, showing off lustering materials and dazzling bead decoration, is rather loose but still displays her bodyline to emphasize sexiness for representation of desire in fantasy. Chastity and innocence are implied with the decency of dresses in reality. They were specially chosen to draw public sympathy and indicate cunning disguise of Roxy who desperately wants to realize her desire. These dauntless costumes, which sufficiently express inside aspirations of Velma and Roxie later denote open and realistic social yearning rather than fatal desire hidden behind sensual beauty. It doesn't exist as imperfect, unrealistic and socially disdainful ambition as the image of femme fatale of paintings and movies did before in history. Femme fatale is expressed with deep cleavage, silk dresses that explicitly display bodyline, sexiness of mesh stockings with garter belts. All of these won't be utilized as a negative tool to seduce and destroy someone anymore but rather, they should represent rightful and fair nature of humans such as men's curiosity who secretly steal a look at them or female sexuality that women spontaneously want to show off.

"A Study on Hebrews Clothing in the Old Testament" - Especially on Hair Styles, Headgears, Footwear and Personal Ornaments - (구약성서(舊約聖書)에 나타난 히브리인의 복식(服飾) - 두식(頭飾), 신발 및 장신구(裝身具) 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Park, Chan-Boo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.10
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    • pp.63-80
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    • 1986
  • The Old Testament cotains mention of the history of creation and clothing in ancient Hebrew. This study dealt with Hebrew dress customs especially aimed at the manners of their hair styles, headgears, footwear and personal ornaments. References are Korean Revised Version, English King James Version and Revised Standard Version. There is little mention of hair styles and headgears in the Old Testament. Some sort of turban was worn by priests, and soldiers protected themselves with helmets, but most Israelitish men went bareheaded except on special occasions and often wear simple headbands. It was more common for women to use headwear of some type-turbans, scarves, and veils concealing the face. The veil was the distinctive female wearing apparel. All females, with the exception of maidservants and women in a low condition of life, wore a veil. It was the custom for women to wear a veil entirely covering their head in the public. Through most of the Old Testament periods long and thick hair was admired on men and women alike. The Hebrews were proud to have thick and abundant long hair, and they gave much attention to the care of their hair. The caring of hair was deeply related to their rituals. Nazirites never took a razor to their hair during his vow-days, but instead let it grow long, as an offering to God. Men would not cut their beards, but allow them to grow long. The Israelites' standard footwear was a pair of simple leather sandals. This was one of the items of clothing not highly prized. In a colloquial saying of the time, a pair of shoes signified something of small value, and to be barefoot except in times of mourning or on holy place, was a sign either of extreme poverty or humiliation, as in the case of war prisoners. Because precious stones were not mined in the Palestine-Syria region, Hebrews imported them from foreign country. They were consumer-to a large degree limited by their very modest standard of living-but not producers. Hebrews liked the precious stones and were motivated to acquire and wear jewels. Besides their use for adornment and as gifts, the precious or semiprecious stones were regarded by Jews of property. The Hebrews were not innovators in the field of decorative arts. The prohibition of the Law against making any "graven image" precluded the development of painting, sculpture, and other forms of representational art. Jewish men did not indulge in extravagances of dress, and there was little ornamentation among them. Men wore a signet ring on their right hand or sometimes suspended by a cord or chain around the neck. The necklaces, when worn by a male, also bore any symbol of his authority. Bracelets were extremely popular with both men and women, men usually preferring to wear them on their upper arms. The girdle was a very useful part of a man's clothing. It was used as a waist belt, or used to fasten a man's sword to his body, or served as a pouch in which to keep money and other things. Men often carried a cane or staff, which would be ornamented at the top. Among the women there was more apt to be ornamentation than among the men. Hebrew women liked to deck themselves with jewels, and ornamentation of the bride were specially luxurious and numerous. They wore rings on their fingers or On toes, ankle rings, earrings, nosering, necklace, bracelets. Their shapes were of cresent, waterdrops, scarab, insect, animal or plant. Sometimes those were used as amulets. They were made of ceramics, gold, silver, bronze, iron, and various precious stones which were mostly imported from Egypt and Sinai peninsular. Hebrews were given many religious regulations by Moses Law on their hair, headgears, sandals and ornamentation. Their clothing were deeply related with their customs especially with their religions and rituals. Hebrew religion was of monotheism and of revealed religion. Their religious leaders, the prophets who was inspired by God might need such many religious regulations to lead the idol oriented people to God through them.

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Development of Hair Accessory Designs Using Royal Hair Ornaments (왕실 머리장식을 응용한 헤어 액세서리 디자인 개발)

  • Jinyoung Ryu;Jiyeon Kim
    • The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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    • v.9 no.5
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    • pp.83-90
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    • 2023
  • The recent trend in younger generations of wearing traditional costumes or incorporating fusion hanbok into daily wear necessitates the development of modern hair accessories to complement hanbok. The purpose of this study is to develop practical and modern hair accessory designs inspired by royal women's hair ornaments that complement hanbok, and therefore expand the scope of fashion content development utilizing hanbok culture as well as meeting the demand for various experiences of traditional culture. This research studied the literature on traditional hairstyles and accessories of Queen Yeong and constructed models of these accessories for the purpose of empirical research. The production process first required creating a basic foundation of nylon mesh reflecting the silhouette of a traditional hairstyle, and then grafting a digital textile printed fabric using majestic and extravagant royal relics on top, thus employing the trompe l'oeil technique to ultimately give the impression of wearing traditional jewelry. As a result, a total of six hair accessory designs were completed, produced with hairbands, hair pins, and hair ties. In addition, the accessories are designed to be easily worn regardless of the wearer's hair style, and the stiff yet flexible nylon mesh effectively expresses the shape of a voluminous hairstyle and creates an optical illusion, blending into the hair. These research results present a unique aesthetic and cultural experience to the greater public seeking both daily entertainment and value from rarity.

Semiological Implication of Dance Images in TV Advertisement (TV광고에 나타난 무용이미지의 기호학적 의미에 관한 연구)

  • Park, Ayoung
    • Trans-
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    • v.1
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    • pp.21-44
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    • 2016
  • Advertisement is composed with symbol and sign with messages trying to express. Especially, ad with dancer introduces goods or meaning of contents with the motion of dance. In this, contents of dance or motion of dancer contains symbol and sign, understanding how ad and dance are expressed meanings with which symbol and the symbolic meaning of dance or dancer on ad. To that end, this study is for analyzing expressed symbol with dance corresponds with the aim of ad and finding the way or attitude of how normal people accept dance by reevaluating symbolic meaning of dance itself. In this study, advertisement producer and director's related data is secured for understanding direction and intention of producer, and previous study related with the study purpose, image, and effect are analyzed for understanding image of dance as a physical sign on TV advertisement. With data from www.TVCF.co.kr. TV advertisement analysis is conducted only with four ads in 2008(Nam Kwang Eng. & Const Co., Lotte Dept. Store(premium sale/gift card), Hyundai Motor Company Santa Fe -Pilobolus) and one ad in 2011(PNS The zone Sash Italy Arena di Verona when dance was used for advertisement with the highest frequency per year. Also, based on considered important factors from repeatedly watching each advertisement, scenes where movement or motion of dancer and screen word is greatly changed are analyzed as a priority. Image analysis of dance is conducted with structure studies based on physical image(line, costume, expression) and dan image(type motion, qualitative feature, mood of dance). As a result, the symbolic dance image appeared in TV advertisement can be discussed as follows. First, symbol and sign of dance on advertisement corresponds with material objects of advertisement. For instance, on the TV advertisement where Lee Youngwoo appeared, his motion as a signifer means challenge for the future of Nam Kwang Eng. & Const Co., with fast turn, jump, assemble turning jump, and sliding. Second, physical image of dancer depending on intention of sender corresponds in general, but there are somewhat differences in image of dance. This makes people to unconsciously recognize symbolic image of dance on TV ad while they watch it at the same time. Especially, when it comes to advertisement, it exposes frequently with broadcasting of organized programs from a broadcaster, living long-time memory. It can be differ based on idea and character of each of receiver. Advertisement is a medium making people naturally adopt cultural art for ordinary people in their lives. Broadcasting public art from TV advertisement widely exposes pure art to people, which was only avaliable for minority, sublimating it as an art of public culture.

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Characteristics of Places to Visit and Hanbok-Trip Class as a Landscape Prosumer - Focused on Gyeongbokgung Palace - (경관 프로슈머로서 한복나들이 향유계층과 방문 장소 특성 연구 - 경복궁을 대상으로 -)

  • Jeon, Seong-Yeon;Sung, Jong-Sang
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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    • v.45 no.3
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    • pp.80-91
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    • 2017
  • This study identifies factors of Hanbok-trippers - a term for people who dress in Hanbok(Korean traditional costume) while going on a trip - who converge on Gyeongbokgung Palace by determining the characteristics of class, places to visit and preferred places. This study interprets the voluntary hobby activities of Hanbok-trippers from a viewpoint of a landscape prosumer and the meaning of the urban landscape. As a result of in-depth interviews, on-site survey, and observation surveys focused on Hanbok-trippers, there were various levels of participants. They are classified into three groups - leading group, entry group, temporary-experience group - according to their cognitions, types of Hanbok use, activities, etc. The leading group and entry group are a voluntary hobbyist class due to the ongoing tendencies of their participation. There are differences in the purpose and factors of visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace as a place for a Hanbok-trip. The leading group visited Gyeongbokgung Palace for cultural activities, regular get-together, public relations, and as a gathering place to go neighboring destinations. In this case, the main factors of the visit are the traditional landscape, convenient transportation, chances for traditional culture exhibitions and events in Gyeongbokgung Palace and its neighborhood. The entry group visits Gyeongbokgung Palace because of its traditional landscape and cultural activities nearby. The traditional landscape and many Hanbok-trippers are main factors of visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace for the Temporary-experience group. This study found that Gyeongbokgung Palace has a new sense of place of 'Introductory course of Hanbok-trip', 'Hanbok Playground' because temporary-experience group visits there to experience a Hanbok-trip for the first time. Hanbok-trippers consume places and landscape in actual places offline, producing a new landscape at the same time, and has the characteristics of a 'landscape prosumer' by producing landscape images online through their own personal or social media. Their colorful and voluntary movements contribute to the dynamism of the urban landscape and can become a new cultural asset for the city. The voluntary hobbyist class can be considered a new type of participants in bottom-up planning such as urban regeneration and place marketing. This study has significance in that it conceptualized the 'landscape prosumer' through the voluntary hobbyist class of Hanbok-trippers with the concept of the 'prosumer' that has been studied only in the consumer studies and marketing fields, and has identified the significance of the urban landscape.