• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.33-68
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• 1993

The purpose of this paper is to survey the influence of the culture change on the dress and personal adornments, and to survey the change of factors from the August 15. 1945 to 1960, in connection with the social and cultural background, applying B. Malinowski′s "Theory of Culture Change" which means an acculturation is the change′s elements of the dress and its ornaments. It is remarkable that the dress and personal adornments of Korean women after August 15, 1945 has great change from the traditional dress of the thousands years. Through the Liveration on August 15, 1945, American military government and the establishment of the Korean government, American democracy has brought many changes on Korean society. Advancement of education, an society with developed economic life, and introduction of scientific skill have influenced on the women′s way of thinking and a style of behavior and the view of value. The acculturation, the supply of mass communication, introduction of new institution and the reorganization of the old institution, the change of the economic situation, the change of the educational system, the change of the point of value, the development of scientific skill have greatly influenced on the dress and personal adornments. Modern dress and personal adornments of Korean women has the following developing procedure. The Liberation from Japan on the 15th, of August, 1945, the stationing of American Soldiers during hte Koran War, returning of the oversea′s brethern, and the mass communication have the direct and indirect contact with western civilization, and bring the occasion of development of the modern dress of Korean women. The increase of mass communication, such as radio, TV, newspaper, magazines and the frequent fashion shows showed fine design and practical western style dress to the women. This was the real beginning of the western style dress in Korea. By the increase of employment and the improvement of the economic situation, the consumption of clothing and the adornments was increased, so that a wide variety of fashions was set, and numerous kind and form of dress came in. As the increase of the number of women students, their practical and free dress life demanded western style dress. After the Liberation from Japan, the open-door policy of sex, public morals and traditional ethics became lax, and in this disordered society, indecent expose of the body was common. By the different kind of technological development, the form, fabrics, colors and patterns in clothes were much influenced and the hair style, make up, shoes and adornments were much influenced too. As shown above, the change of the dress has the same connection with that of society and culture. This shows that the dress and personal adornments represent clearly the cultural phenomenon of the society and cultural change of the society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.387-410
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to approach to the internal meanings included in the Happening and the culture of hippies, by analysing the basic mental conditions in the process of the Happening. And this study was composed of the concept and the development of Happening, the characteristics of the hippies that related in the midst of the happening's background, and the formativeness between these factors and hippies'fashion. Since the happening a genre of fine arts expression attended the New School for social research in New York in 1954, Allan Kaprow direct-influenced by John Cage used the word 'Hapening'first, practicing '18 Happenings in 6 parts'at the Rueben gallery in 1959. Kaprow's 18 Happenings was one of the earliest opportunities for a wider public to attend the live events that several artists had performed more privately for various friends. Despite the very different sensibilities and structures of artist's works, artists were all thrown together by the press under the general heading of 'Happening', following Kaprow's 18 Happenings. Being considered as the root of the Happening 'Expression of Sound'of John Cage was the discovery of the exisiting thing- the Happening. Most artists were to be deeply influenced by Cage's theories and attitudes-that is, his sympathy for Zen Buddihism and oriental philosophy-and by reports of the Black Mountain events. These events would directly reflect contemporary painting and stemmed from the Futurists, Dadaists and Surrealists. And Happening's development background was based on the culture of hippies. Swinging London had been under the sway of psychedelic drugs and utopian visions of 'hippie'wave sweeping in from Califonia. This wave, which affected solid middle-class youth first and formost, began in Haight Ashbury in San Francisco. Without dwelling on the hippie movement here, it is worth nothing that it resulted from the convergence of several undercurrents : consciousness-expending drugs, the anti-Vietnam war developments, the impact of English pop groups on American music and the rise of protest songs, and finally the beatnik tradition of non-conformism. Hippie culture and its pursuit of love, peace and psychedelia was the antitheses of 1960s main street fashion. The media gave everyone with long hair the label of 'hippie', but it was always a very loose collage of attitudes and styles. The rejection of sexual taboos was conveyed by the hippie's refusal to wear. Although the bold exposure of body raised controversies because it went against the existing moral values, it has a significant implications. Psychedelics brought mind-expansion and the possibillity that modern technology (light show, synthesized electronic sounds), new fabrics or colors, and LSD could be utilized to provide an escape route from the dreariness of modern life. During the 1960s, traditional costumes, many of which had never been seen outside their native regions, became sought after and adopted in the West, initially by the young, who wanted to demonstrate their solidarity with cultures uncontaminated by mass industry. The most ardent proponents of such folk costumes were the hippies. Hippies dress was sometimes decribed as 'anti-fashion', produced by a patchwork of ragged cast-offs and flamboyant accessories, of outmoded Western dress and time-honored ethnic garments all combined, modified and permutated into variety of personal statements. 'Flower Power'became a reality. From the results of this study, we can see the expanding trend of the influence and the concept of the sew art genre 'Happening'in the formativeness as well as the fine arts field.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 1998

As for the taboo of dress and its ornaments which was applied to only populace one-sidedly mainly under the power structure of feudalistic centralization of government like Chosun dynasty, the aspect of taboo was diversified all the more by having relation with various phenomenon of social structure characteristics, and the taboo items to be given in accordance with the flow of time shows the diversity. Especially, the structure of dress and its ornaments in Chosun period showed the side of social position relation and luxury control, and the taboo of dress and its ornaments which was derived from the current thought about China was given frequently. To respect the frugal virtue and moderate the life has relation with the stream of the times in individuals or nations. And, that it is externalized is dress and its ornaments. As the luxury about dress and its ornaments was serious in accordance with times, it appeared by having relation with whole economic question of nations. Then, this researcher thought this by relating this to the culture of customs. This researcher thought that the luxury about clothing gets to go to extremes and the law and order collapses, according as public morals get to be very lax. And, it can be said that the way to be able to control this is that the customs should be thoroughly obeyed and that the system to be able to play the role of braking is taboo. So, this researcher thinks that it is significant to examine the achievement which has contributed toward the life of dress and its ornaments by successive kinds on the basis of a true record of the Vidynasty and other all sorts of literatures about the real situation of prohibition order which has been from the first king to Kojong at the last period of nation. The criticism and taboo about luxury which have been discussed at Chosun period may be subdivided into some kinds in accordance with the subjects. But, in this tests, as it sis the real situation that the case to be due to the lavish necessary articles for marriage which is coming to fore as our social problem nowadays is increasing remarkably, this researcher tries to examine the taboo about the marriage luxury at Chosun period in the order of successive generations. Thus, before examining the taboo of marriage luxury, this researcher tries to examine about the taboo of textile luxury and study the taboo of marriage luxury, as the marriage luxury governs almost everything of textile luxury and it is regarded as the origin of marriage luxury, especially. And, this researcher tries to study as to how was the penal regulations based on it at the same time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.13-24
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• 1981

The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.75-91
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• 2003

This study analyzed descriptions about dots, lines, and sides which are used as a basic elements to express geometric figures as followings: -In the aspect of formative art, dots form images and feelings through their concurrence when make a slight move to coordinates. The concurrence can bring out either positive or negative images; -Lines have unlimited variation as a core measure in body art. They can make optimal effects with different lines such as straight and curved lines of human body; -Sides express not only effects of texture and perspective but also of space and solid by color effects. Expressive characteristics and geometric shapes can be classified by tattoo, henna and body painting: First, colorful tattoos are favored by Caucasian and original tattoos are mostly used by yellow and colored races in the way of scarification to get decorative effects. Recently, a rapid cycle of fashion change in tattoo figures has developed a tentative method of tattooing and a variety of decoration methods. It has made it a lot easier to change a pattern of a tattoo. Tattoos are now popular among people because they no longer have to suffer from pains when they get their body tattooed for a long time. Since tattoos boast their unique beauty which consists of most dynamic and attractive images among the types of body art. It will be one of the most favored make-up methods in the nearest future. Second, geometric designs used in henna include crosses, dots, straight lines, triangles, date palms, and so on. Henna has been particularly loved as an instant decoration by the public since it gradually disappears as time goes on. Third, body painting enables to draw a three-dimensional effect because of its close relation with body movements in a limited space. Each individual will have a different feeling appealed in their body painting. Body painting has been applied to many different areas, especially to theatrical art using lights, music and performance altogether producing impromptu and experimental works. Unlike other arts such as painting, sculpture, visual and industrial arts, body painting has mobility. Since it is painted on a three-dimensional human body, it can bear originality expressing realistic objects or animals and strengthen creative functions using body lines. Moreover, geometric designs can be diversified by the sexes. As a result of analysis, geometric designs expressed in body art seemed to transcend expressions of beauty and turned out to be another way of decoration. Body art has also been used as a way to express visual integration and consolidation dynamically not by human instinct but by social changes. The needs for body art will grow as the future comes nearer and be recognized as a new and fresh value. Formative elements of geometric figures deliver visual impressions combined with human body and finally create more various types of body art in harmony of body lines.

• Journal of Information Technology Applications and Management
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.1-14
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• 2020

Since the birth of animation, the United States has created many classic characters. For example, Mickey Mouse and Minnie, Tom and Jerry, Lion King, and Nemo, which are imaged with animal images, include Snow White, Bell, Mulan, and Aladdin. In addition, there are villain characters designed with strong personality and personality design, such as Snow White's stepmother Grimheel, Ursula, Bad Girl Crew El Radville, Scar, Captain Hook, and so on. These animation characters have been remembered for a long time with stories in people's minds, and have also brought laughter and emotion to people all over the world, which has brought a lot of business value to animation companies. Recently, the villain of American animation works is becoming more and more suited to the taste of the audience. The villain is not a symbolic image of the brutality we have seen before. They are not only visual images with rich and diverse personalities, but are also designed to suit the tastes of the public with a multifaceted inconsistency. They appear as ordinary people in our lives in works, or as powerful people who are not realistic. The villain characters designed in this way are real human miniatures appearing in the relationships in our lives, and they cannot judge good or bad only by their appearance. Through the study of villains in American animation, many villains in American animation were summed up, and villains could be classified into three types: brutal, violent, and sneaky. Based on this, it was possible to analyze the appearance and attire of the villain character in American animation, and to create a vivid and popular image of the villain, it was found that the character of the character should be emphasized when constructing the shape and costume of the villain character. In conclusion, the attractive formation of villain characters is an important part for successful animation. The production of vivid and long-lasting villain characters must begin with detailed settings such as personality, shape, and dress from the planning stage, which is not only the intention of the producer, but also a reflection of the aesthetic psychology that society should pay attention to today.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.4 s.10
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• pp.63-74
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to investigate unique field of formative characteristics using copper wire, the present thesis aims at developing concept of hair art as a creative way, and recognizing the formative characteristics of copper wire as analyze and arrange the concept of hair art, formative, a way of practical application, material aspect, through literature, academic journals, photo data, and researched about prior piece, for example, architecture and costume with hair art, and then pieces of hair art were made. Influenced by the theory, applied the social phenomenon and the formative principles, produced the seven pieces which includes flying, composure, yahoo, harmony, balance, way, spring etc. The results of this research are outlined below. Firstly, It showed that the copper wire can express the mysterious and beautiful formative world, and it could know the possibility of design. Secondly, formative activity using copper wire can differ according to approach and interpretation, and it can be a works with aesthetic value. Thirdly, hair could be express the art of the three-dimensional forms which constitute the mixture of line, surface and space. Fourthly, the handicraft including beading, pleat, piping, rolling that used for works are proper to express the unique formative and the rich colors, and it can also express the transparency. So it showed that copper wire is a proper materials. So, hair art has enlarged the fields with development of technique, and changed to recognition of the hair art, and opened up a new field. Hair art will be positive fields to maximize the possibility, and not only the beauty artist but also the public will be communicate each other.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.38-47
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• 2007

In the modern society that is advancing rapidly, the hair art is also advancing and subdividing. The purpose of this study is to investigate unique field of formative as characteristics and forms of copper wire, focused on such a harmony of hair art, the present thesis aims at developing concept of hair art as a creative way, and recognizing the formative characteristics of copper wire as analyze and arrange the concept of hair art, formative, a way of practical application, material aspect, through literature, academic journals, photo data, and researched about prior piece, for example, architecture and costume with hair art, and then pieces of hair art were made. Influenced by the theory, applied the social phenomenon and the formative principles, produced the five pieces which includes balance, composure, flying, harmony, way, spring etc. The results of this research are outlined below. Firstly, It showed that the copper wire can express the mysterious and beautiful formative world, and it could know the possibility of design. Secondly, formative activity using copper wire can differ according to approach and interpretation, and it can be a works with aesthetic value. Thirdly, hair could be express the art of the three-dimensional forms which constitute the mixture of line, surface and space. So, hair art has enlarged the fields with development of technique, and changed to recognition of the hair art, and opened up a new field. Hair art will be positive fields to maximize the possibility, and not only the beauty artist but also the public will be communicate each other.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.936-953
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• 2016

This article surveys the meaning and history of fashion museum exhibitions to understand the characteristics that make a fashion museum exhibition special. It explores dress museology and fashion museology in theory, and practice across a range of international case studies that include the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, Mode Museum in Antwerp, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. In particular, it examines how curatorial intervention has developed the interpretation and display techniques of dress within the context of the museum or gallery as well as how fashion has made museums accessible to diverse audiences. For a specific case study, we review the types and roles of fashion exhibitions organized by the Simone Handbag Museum, Seoul. It is the first handbag-centered fashion museum in the world as well as one of the most representative local fashion museums. The museum collection includes fashionable western handbags from rare specimens of the $15^{th}$ century to the latest bags of the $21^{st}$ century, and presents a history of changing fashion cycles and the major socio-cultural shifts that have profoundly affected women's lives in public spaces. Exhibitions show the perspective to a range of curatorial methodologies and show the innovative approaches towards collections and displays with broader fashion issues such as gender, materialism and technology. The article is to help encourage further scholar discourse between fashion museum exhibitions and fashion museology.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.28-41
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• 1986

In the history of costume, coat can be traced up to ancient Persia but it was generalized as today's style around 14th an d15th century in Euro[pe. World wars, revolutions and rapid social changes of the last 80 years have produced more changes in the way people dress than any comparable period in history. Thewse changes enabled emergence of more modernized woman's garments and through it, dress and coat ensemble became public's main fashion. In 1920's after world war I, boyish style in woman's garment was in vogue. Woman's coat was also in the same style with length sortened up to the knee level and silhoutte was straighter and semi-fitted than previous period. Length of the coat was longer in late 1930's but shortened again in 1940's. And the most popular silhouette of both 30's and 40's was shape of the hourglass which was commonly called the "X-shape". Also double=breasted coat with fitted waistline, belt and flare skirt was in vogue. In 1950's and 60's, with the variety of lines in woman's garments, silhouette of the coat also appeared in many different forms. Along with the various shapes, color of the coat changed throughout the decades : dark colors in 20's, bright colors in 30's, mixed colors of 20's and 30's in 40's and in 50's, color had changed to archromatic. In fabric, wool was most popular in all periods. However, such gabrics as tweed, cotton, gaberdine, linen were added to give variety. It is very interesting to see collars trimmed with expensive furs were very popular in 20's and 30's but it almost disappeared in 40's and fur trimming reappeared in late 50's. In addtion to silhouette changes in design, details such as buttons, epaulettes, pockets and fur trimming of hemline were emphasizing points of varieties in design. This study has set time limits world war I which was the period coat became major fashion of woman's clothing, to 1960's.