• Title/Summary/Keyword: the costume of the public

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Development of Performance Uniform for Korean Classical Music Band (국악 연주단복 개발을 위한 연구)

  • Kim, Yeo Kyung;Kim, Jeong Min;Hong, Na Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.6
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    • pp.148-160
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    • 2014
  • This study proposed the design development of performance uniform for Korean classical music. To do this, we considered the state of the performance uniform of the Korean Classical Music Band through photographic data. The research targeted the performers in Korean Classical Music Band, and conducted a survey for the preference of type, pattern, decoration, color and fabric materials. Based on the results, we extracted the design of performance uniform, which is suitable for the environment of Korean classical music performance and meets the substantial requirements of performers. The performance uniform that the current national or public Korean classical music bands are using, has two types: Western clothing and Hanbok. The attire is influenced by the genre of the music that they are playing because one of its main functions is to deliver the music to audience effectively. In addition, there are some differences in the uniform based on the gender, but no division in the design of clothing according to music instruments. However, the result of the survey show that there was no difference in preference by gender, but there was some difference according to the division of music instruments. On this study, we reflected this result in the design, and proposed the design of an convenient outer garment for everyone to wear in the music performance band.

The Evolution of Fashion Printmaking and Fashion Magazine in the 16th Century to Early 20th Century (16-20세기 초 프랑스 패션판화와 패션잡지의 변천)

  • Kim Yang-Hee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.7 no.2
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    • pp.25-37
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    • 2005
  • This is a study on the origin of fashion imaging. First of all, 1 looked into the history of French fashion printmaking from late 16th century to early 19th century. Then studied the changes in the characteristics of context and form over the different periods and summarized each concept. At the same time, I looked into the process of fashion magazine evolving from fashion printmaking. In order to find out how fashion printmaking dealt with the characteristics of fashion media, 1 researched the commercial environment of fashion printmaking and reorganized the methodology of its media's role. Such analysis and results helped to reach a definition on how to regulate fashion printmaking. Fashion imaging was sparked by a small curiosity. As people began to be rage over new things, it came to introduce the fashion leaders of the public combined with the attributes of trend. At times when changes were so big that they were unpredictable, it itself became a fashion leader. Then a fashion creator emerges and it's function changes to that of a communication media. Moreover, the regular issuance of fashion printmaking implemented the concept of trend cycle and fashion imaging completely fulfilled the conditions of a communication media. The massive increase in the production of fashion printmaking and magazine contributed to the spread of fashion and the diffusion of printmaking lead to mutual complementation and synergy necessitated by fashion. Thus, the democratization of fashion and the commercialization of printmaking art occurred at the same time.

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Development of Fashion Design Depending on the Modern Woman's Contra-sexual Trend (현대 여성의 콘트라섹슈얼 성향에 따른 패션 디자인 개발)

  • Yang, Eun-Jin;Lee, In-Seong
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.17 no.5
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    • pp.733-745
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    • 2009
  • The contra-sexual phenomenon that is recently focused is one of the new factors, which is focused when explaining the life style of progressive woman's image and it is creating cultural category. Moreover, the contra sexual people that are rising as new consuming subjects are not simple primary consumers but their shopping culture and cultural tastes are giving effects to many people. Because of the tendency, marketer of consuming industry are making efforts to predict the changes of contra-sexual people's shopping habits and tastes. Therefore, it is necessary to grasp contra-sexual phenomenon and research the fashion design aiming at that in order to predict woman's fashion image in the future. Therefore, the study considered concept and characteristic of contra-sexual phenomenon and surveyed its example in the popular culture. And, the study analyzed the formative characteristic of contra-sexual fashion shown in the public cultures such as drama and movie. On the basis of the result, design was suggested by reflecting contra-sexual fashion characteristic under the concept of 'Urban Splendor'. From the results above, it was possible to grasp the concept and characteristic of contra-sexual phenomenon, which appeared as a trend and understand new woman's image and the fashion that has changed because of it. It is considered that the establishment of the foundation of contra-sexual phenomenon, which plays as an important variable in woman's fashion, fashion accessory, cosmetic and advertisement field but it is hard to clarify, by analyzing the work aiming at contra-sexual phenomenon will be helpful for predicting the change of woman's fashion in the future.

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A Study on the Effect of Popular Culture in Modern Fashion -Focused on the Fashion Icon- (현대 패션에 나타나는 대중문화의 영향에 관한 연구 -Fashion Icon을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Young-Sam
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.7 s.107
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    • pp.58-67
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    • 2006
  • This study of popular culture is in based on an academic point of view and based thereon an investigation of popular culture from a fashion standpoint follows. This study is to suggest that the popular culture theory can be a basic framework to examine the characteristics of fashion Icon and to verify that the characteristics of Fashion Icon is similar to the codes of the popular culture of today, This study considers the characteristics of popular culture as commercialism, mass-media relationship and a symbolic interaction. The images of movie stars projected through diverse entertainment media are the very fashion icons and strong role models that are copied by consumers. Now, the public take the lead in cultural industry, and they create new images as positive receivers of the images of fashion icons, not as mere imitators or followers. Fashion irons have contributed to diversifying the styles of ideal feminine beauty, and their lift pattern and image are one of the major sources to stir up the imagination and inspiration of people. Thus, the times, fashion and entertainment media have continued to evolve, closely affecting one another, and fashion icons play a role of fashion leader, through entertainment media, who takes the initiative in mass fashion without just being confined to the field of entertainment. This study meaningful from the aspect that discussion of popular culture has been placed in a position that recognizes the entity of and interest in popular culture. through this study, I hope that the scope of interest in Fashion design will expand and that approaches to popular culture will become more diversified.

The Life Satisfaction, Appearance Satisfaction, Clothing Satisfaction, and Clothing Design Preferance of Women Aged 55years and Older in Seoul (노년기 여성의 생활만족도 및 외모만족도에 따른 의복만족도와 의복디자인 선호도에 대한 연구 -서울시내 거준 노년기 여성을 중심으로-)

  • 김진구;서미아;이유경;이선희
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.4 no.1
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    • pp.57-74
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    • 1996
  • The elderly population of Korea has been significantly increasing due to advances in public health, medical care, and quality of life. Social and economic influence of the elderly population has been also increasing. A elderly people become more interested in their appearance and clothing than before, clothing plays an important role in the elderly women's everyday life. The objectives of the research are to explore the life satisfaction, appearance satisfaction, clothing satisfaction, and clothing design preference of 416 women aged 55 years and older were residents of Seoul. Data were gathered through survey using a self-administered questionnaire from November, 1994 to January, 1995 in 8 senior schools and 3 senior centers which were scattered in Seoul. Descriptive statistics, t-test, and factor analysis were used in analysing the data. The results of this study indicated that life satisfaction have a positive relationship with clothing satisfaction. The respondents were divided into tow groups by life satisfaction. The higher life satisfaction group preferred skits and formal wear to the lower. But, two groups did not show any significant differences in terms of the colo preference, motif preference, and fabric preference. The result of factor analysis divided appearance satisfaction into body satisfaction and face satisfaction. Body satisfaction had a positive relationship with clothing satisfaction. And the group of lower physical satisfaction showed lower satisfaction in apparel fitness. Also the face satisfaction had a positive relationship with clothing satisfaction. The group of higher physical satisfaction preferred skirts and foraaml wear compared to that of lower physical satisfaction. The color preference and motif preference between two groups showed no significant difference. And the group of higher physical satisfaction preferred fabric that enhances the clothing style. Also, the group of higher ace satisfaction preferred fabric that enhances the clothing style. However, there was no significant difference in the color preference and motif preference between tow groups. The findings of this study amy contribute to knowledge about clothing satisfaction and preference of elderly women in Seoul since there have been few studies, and be useful to apparel manufacturers as well s clothing researchers. Also, research subjects of this study could be extended to aged men and various regions.

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Fashion Image and Design Characteristics of Chinese First Lady, Peng Liyuan (중국 퍼스트레이디 펑리위안의 패션이미지와 디자인 특성)

  • Li, Chao;Ha, Seung Yeon
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.18 no.4
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    • pp.31-46
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    • 2016
  • This study would inquire into the fashion image and design characteristics of Peng Liyuan, the first lady of China that has a mighty influence on the recent global economy and consumption. For this purpose, first, this study investigated the fashion image of Peng Liyuan according to the role which she performs as a first lady and analyzed how the fashion image appears and changes by year and role type. Second, this study analyzed the design characteristics of Peng Liyuan's fashion image, focusing on the silhouette, fashion items, coordinated items, colors, and textile patterns. The scope of the research was limited to the dresses worn by Peng Liyuan from March 14, 2013 to September 30, 2015. The fashion image of Peng Liyuan changed from classic and elegant image to modern image till 2015, and she reduced ethnic image and emphasized romantic image. In international diplomatic visits, she tried to express the confidence and potential of China through classic, ethnic and modern image, while in formal events of China, she showed an intention to communicate with the Chinese public with soft intimacy through elegant and ethnic images. As design characteristics in her fashion image, she flexibly changed her fashion image by the composition of silhouettes and items, which could cover her mid-life body type and made use of the form and detail of Chinese traditional qipao, appropriate coordination of scarves and brooches, the combination of chromatic color and achromatic color, appropriate uses of textile patterns and the delivery of China's image according to place and purpose. The study of Peng Liyuan's fashion image has significance to understand the fashion trend as a role model of fashion for the Chinese people and can help the domestic fashion industry that aims at the Chinese market in the future by predicting Chinese women' Fashion trend.

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Humors in Female Costumes Depicted in Genre Paintings in the Late Joseon Dynasty (조선후기 풍속화에 표현된 여성복식의 해학미)

  • Kwon, Ha-Jin;Kim, Min-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.2
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    • pp.35-50
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    • 2010
  • In this dissertation, the analysis of the study of female customs from late Joseon Dynasty and their genre painting to research humors and its aesthetic senses in that certain era. The purpose of the genre paintings is to look at general populations in an objective point of view and endeavor better value of public life style to embody clear understandings of humanity. The artists such as Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed their arts based on reasonable reality with sarcastic but humorous and creative ways to criticize the society's problems with clear statements. Therefore, the formative characters are realism, exaggeration and coloring of the whole arts that represents as innovative and original genre of it's time. Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed the women in society as open minded with versatile and refined looks in their paintings as the reality was repressed and closed mind for women figures in late Joseon Dynasty. The female customs in the paintings has both suppression and expression in their dresses and exaggerated shapes of accessories and the use of color were also found. All of these elements has the aesthetic values of satirized eroticism, the hint of next evolution of the late Joseon Era under the conservative disposition of social characters and freedom of expression of playfulness. These elements were new developments and a step forward of female 'sex' and expression of satirized eroticism. The exaggerated and distorted forms and accessories demonstrates unbalanced and asymmetrical elements in humorous characters and they include spontaneity. Also, using the five traditional color schemes of Korean art displays humor in playfulness of an art with splendid and purity, duality of positiveness and artless, smart and elegance looks.

Stereotype Femininity Expressed in Fashion Illustration (패션 일러스트레이션에 표현된 스테레오타입 여성성)

  • Lee, Kyung-Ah;Geum, Key-Sook
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.19 no.2
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    • pp.430-448
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    • 2011
  • This study analyzes the stereotyped femininity with a focus on body codes, which has been continuously expressed in fashion illustrations from the late $19^{th}$ century to the year 2010, and examines the changes in its meaning. Stereotyped femininity was reorganized by the changes in female sex role effected by social changes, as well as by the body discourse and feminism in the late $20^{th}$ century, These socio-cultural backgrounds led to the change in the meaning of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. The stereotyped women in fashion illustrations are characterized by gender-oriented body, and the typical image of women was reproduced with the marks of poses and looks that feature passiveness and subordination. Then, the gender-oriented body since 1990's shifted to active meaning that positively revealed sexual desire. The space positioned by women is also the symbol of gender. In line with changes over time, the backgrounds in fashion illustrations have changed from private space such as home and nature to public space such as city, which reflects diversification and expansion of space for women. This study has identified the changes in meaning, based on the analysis of the characteristics of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. Above all, women who were objectified as a subject by dominant discourse have established the concept of active body as an entity. In addition, the symbol of typical femininity is "slim" and "beauty", which reflects the change from the emphasis on childbirth-related femininity to self-control and conquer. On the other hand, the typical features expressed through body have reproduced dichotomous structure, but the emergence of body and background deviated from gender has reorganized the symbolic order of gender.

The Study on the Characteristics of Design through Issey Miyake's Fashion Philosophy (이세이 미야케의 패션철학을 통해 나타난 디자인 특징에 관한 연구)

  • 김미성;배수정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.6
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    • pp.161-173
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of this paper is to classify fashion and trend, and examine how his fashionable philosophy reflects design. What affects his fashion philosophy is Western culture and Paris Revolution. Taking this opportunity, he outgrew the concept of haute couture and established specific fashion philosophy. His fashion philosophy is classified under consideration for women, respect for free emotions, recognition of tradition, and an active intercourse with many people. The characteristics of design through his philosophy are as following: 1. He wanted to release women from clothing restrained the body and make comfortable clothing which everyone can wear. This implies the consideration for women. It is the characteristics of his design to the harmony of functionality, simplicity, decoration and popularity. 2. He respected the free emotions and induced people to wear each parts of clothing which is dismantled freely within the limits coincided with clothing teleology-'wear', It implies autonomy. He also unfolded experimental design: gives the regular space between the clothing and the body and then distorts the body or maximizes modeling. It implies the beauty of space. 3. He elicited the modern design through recognition of tradition. It implies contemporaneousness. 4, As he thought that all of the concepts is based on human, he derived inspiration firm an active intercourse with many people, He established a new style through an active intercourse with artists because if he works alone, he would rise above the popular trend, It comes to the gest artist serieE and implies popularity, The characteristics of design in his fashion philosophy is classified into experimental design and practical design. But the important factor of his fashion philosophy is popularity so he would like to make popular clothing. He designs clothing which fit the public. It results from his firm fashion philosophy that his clothing is practical and decorative and he establishes his works meeting needs of modern. It is the reason that his clothing has perpetuity.

Women Power Dressing Expressed in Recent Fashion - With Reference to the Female Yuppie Style of the 80s - (우먼 파워로 나타나는 최근 매선 스타일에 관한 연구 - 80년대 여성 여피 패션 스타일과의 비교를 중심으로-)

  • Choi Ho-Jeong;Ha Ji-Soo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.2 s.92
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    • pp.129-142
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    • 2005
  • As more our society express their interests in strong and independent women on the onset of the 21st century when source of power shifts to knowledge and information, women with economic power are increasing in number, which is because demands for delicacy and objective Judgment known as unique qualities of woman who was deemed to be inferior to man in the past century are now in the rise in many professional sectors. The shift in public awareness of female image and capability is also being manifested recently by a new fashion style named New Women Power Dressing. Comparing the so-called new power dressing style with the female yuppie fashion of the 80s known to have marked the beginning of female power dressing, this study aims to define the uniqueness of women power dressing style of today, reanalyze the fashion style of today in reference to its predecessors and predict new fashion trend for the futurr. As a conclusion, both of the female yuppie style of the 80s and the new power dressing trend of the 2000s were found to stress manliness and showoff. Such characteristics were expressed in terms of focuses on both fitness and fashion style. However, the female yuppie look of the 80s and its successor of the 2000s showed significant difference in what they were intended to signify internally and how they were displayed externally.