• 복식
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• 제31권
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• pp.145-164
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• 1997

Cinema costume can stimulate the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies . Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies are beautiful or dramatic the styles of cinema costumes powerfully affect them. Thus cinema costume designers quickey become fashion designers. Edith Head who strongly believed cinema costumes to be an effective means of portraying the Character's personality and psychological make-up was an innovative designer whose costumes manifested this belief. She enhanced the character's individual image and distinction for the public through her artistic design in costumes. She adapted a realistic approach but her costumes invariably produced aesthetic ef-fects. Since the Academy Awards added the category of costume design she led the field with 35 nominations and eight oscars during 33 years of her productive work. Edith head was a dominant figure in costume design; her creations were highly renowned as an art form while they gained popularity. The purpose of this study was to reveal the ef-fects of Edith Head's cinema costume designs on fashion. This study was also to emphasize the powerful influence on ashion of cinema costume and cinema costume designers in general. The study was done through literature movies for which she created costumes fashion magazines and Edith Head's original sketches. The influence of Edith Head's costume de-sign on fashion is as follows: 1. She introduced and lead the casual fashion in the 1950's combining simplicity and sophistication. 2. She altered uniforms and reconstructed public clothing for multiple functions. 3. She rearranged high school prom dresses through the movie 'A Place in the Sun" to en-hance characteristic of each gender and the Dandy Look of the 1930's into men's apparel in the 1970's through the movie "The Sting" 4. She expanded the traditional style in the 1940's and became a leader in ecological style. 5. She adapted glitter from astronaut's ap-parel into public clothing. 6. She resturctured Sabrina Pants in the 1960's to accentuate the individuals strength by overcoming one's weakness without minimi-zing it's aesthetic appeal and reintroduced the pants in the 1990's. 7. She introduced elegant negligees to gen-eral public and maintained it in the public do-main. As it is revealed Edith Head's costume de-sign not only impacted the field of fashion dur-ing her time but also is presently influencing modern fashion throughout the world as it is witnessed by repeated reintroduction of her fashion styles. Reviewing her cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes powerfully af-fect the public through a visual channel more than any other routes. Cinema costumes can become the origin of fashion by stimulating the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Since cinema costumes can launch fashion trend it requires further research. Based on what is revealed in this study. it would be beneficial to examine how cinema costumes affect people socially and culturally and how they could provide resources for re-search in fashion trends. It is also the writers opinion that there should be more designers such as Edith head who could lead the field of costume design into the twenty-first century.

• 복식
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• 제52권7호
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• pp.167-177
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• 2002

This study revolves around the costume of the Naadam festival worn in the opening ceremony. during competition and the costume of the public. their purpose are two fold. First they are to be the main reference for the diverse Mongolian costumes that have been researched. Secondly, they will help us understand better the culture that revolves around Mongolian costumes. The results are as follows : 1) The opening ceremony costume, The opening ceremony starts with a procession of soldiers with 9 flags. The flags are made from the hairs of white horses and they signify peace and tranquility, ever since the beginning of Chinggis Khans time. The costumes resemble a European military uniform 2) The costumes for competition. $\circled1$ Wrestlers' costume comprises of a jacket with sleeves but no front and shorty shorts of red or blue colored silk, a traditional hat and traditional boots. $\circled2$ Archers' costume comprises of their traditional costume, deel, hat and boots. $\circled3$ Horse riders who are usually children wear a comfortable and simple jacket and pants. 3) The costume of the public : The general public that attended the festival were dressed in a western fashion but differ according to different age groups $\circled1$ The costumes of the younger Mongolian : The majority of the men wore traditional costumes that were appropriate to the festival, the women did not as they were more prone to the influence of fads of western cultures and dressed in a more daring fashion. In addition. the children also dressed in a more modem western fashion. $\circled2$ The costumes of the elderly Mongolian : The elderly, oblivious of whatever season it was, were dressed in a more traditional fashion which is the deel.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2013

The stage costume in theater, along with the stage art, is the element that has the biggest visual effect in helping the audience to understand the theater. Nevertheless, in the domestic theater production system, compared with the other public performance products, the stage costume has been rented or purchased due to the lack understanding of the importance of the stage costume and budget problem, and thus the role of the stage costume has been undervalued. Such a phenomenon is more noticeable in the small scale theater. However, in this play White Neutral Nation (Original: Andorra), the production team and the directing team recognized the importance of the costume in the early stage of production, and accordingly lots of efforts, such as staff meetings and budget allocation, were made for the stage costume. As a result, the entire production process of the stage costume could be examined. Recently, performance culture in Korea has made rapid progress and diverse forms of public performances are created and planned. Accordingly, the level of audience has been rising and the interest in the stage costume is also rising. So, it can be said that not only the stage costume but also the production system that makes it are important. This research examined the production process of the stage costume only of the play White Neutral Nation but it is considered necessary to make researches on the production process of the stage costume used for the theater of different themes and public performances of different kinds and to systematize their production process of the stage costume.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.879-888
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• 2003

Song is a significant message with organic combination of relics and melody. As such, songs could be an important way to deliver messages in the relics and melodies. Among the several kinds of songs ‘popular song’ is the most common and has the strongest effect on the public. On this purpose, total 700 songs published from 1995 to 2001 popular songs have been researched after extracting 100 songs chronologically in regards of broadcasting times, popularity rankings and records of yearly awards during its production year. These selected popular songs have been collected and studied before sampling the expression of the costume included in the relics. Clothes, hair styling, make-up, shoes & purses, accessaries and body figure, etc. are covered In this study. As the recent symbolism embedded in the relics of popular songs is closely related with our generation background, public preference & dislike and the change of modem costume, it shows the symbolism of costumes evidently again.

• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.124-135
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• 2007

Being called 'the period of diversity', the 21st century is taking on a new aspect which is different from the past where a certain phenomenon of a specific area was prescribed as one representative icon of a period. In particular, the globalization culture acted as the catalyst to accept such diversity and it appeared as a new culture code, 'fusion' throughout society and culture. Especially, unlike two-hour movies, the recent drama $\lceil$Gung$\rfloor$ showed various fusion style costume over a period of three months and created a sensation of fusion style costume. Therefore, this study is aimed at investigating fusion style costume by selecting the TV drama $\lceil$Gung$\rfloor$ which was on the air in 2006. Though various studies on fusion style costume, which is becoming a new culture code, have been conducted, this study is meaningful in that it's time to conduct a new study through a popular TV drama. Based on preceding studies on fusion style, the elements of fusion style were analyzed by capturing the most frequently exposed heroine's costume, and new design development introducing fusion elements was attempted for empirical studies. The study results are as follows. First, it was found that the fusion trend is a culture code which already spread to the public and is shown in the fashion in various ways. Second, the drama $\lceil$Gung$\rfloor$, is commented as a new dram which introduced the fusion style costume into Korea through a modern version of constitutional monarchy and is commented as a medium which created an interest in the fusion costume among the public as well. Third, new trend elements of the fusion style could be derived through empirical studies by design development.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권5호
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• pp.481-494
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• 2003

The Gamrotenghwa of the Choson Dynasty is a unique genre of buddhist painting in that the destiny of the dead souls and the guidance to nirvana are expressed in reality. More than 50 of the Gamrotenghwa are known to be present, and the lower part of the paintings includes a wide assortment of folk customary scenes reflecting the social life style of the time when the painting was drawn, such as difficulties in life. public life, punishment and war. Changes in the costume of the people shown on the customary scenes of the Gamrotenghwa according to the time based changes in painting style were investigated in this study. The results are summarized in three points. First, the costumes of bureaucrats showed a tendency of preservation without any major changes in the painting. On the other hand, costumes of public and entertainer in the scenes were very close to those worn by the people at that time. The realistic description of public life in the painting may establish the value of the Gamrotenghwa as the historical documents. Second, the costume of the people in the painting showed a dual structure as the social positions; bureaucrats wore various official hats, large coats and belts to expose their social prestige. while the general public wore simple and convenient clothing which is divided into shirt and pants. The dual structure of the costume in the painting is in well accordance with that of the later period of Choson dynasty, suggesting that the customary scenes in the painting represent the social life style of the period. Finally, the customary scenes in the Gamrotenghwa are very variegated. which shows a variety of beauty of wearing even though they look coarse in a sense. The diversity of wearing beauty in the picture may contribute to the recreation of the beauty of shape in the new design of Hanbok.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2004년도 International Costume Conference in Association with ICOM 2004 SEOUL
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• pp.52-53
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• 2004

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.108-127
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the principles of clothing design and the way of design approach in Lamanova. She caused a revolution in the art of dress and created the foundation for costume design theory. She Addressed Art in everyday life to self-taught dressmakers. The distinguishing feature of the design is simplicity and functionality. In an article "The Russian Style", Lamanova raised the question of the new Soviet costume and traditional costume. In "On Contemporary Costume" she classified the new forms of clothes into everyday and holiday attire, showed the principles of costume, and analyzed in detail the necessity of constructing a costume to suit the individual figure. In "On the Rationality of Costume", she found a basis theory for clothing design which is for whom, from what, and for what purpose. Lamanova's theory was made public in full in 1928 and was presented at the exhibition of Handmade Textiles and Embroidery in Women's Contemporary Costume. The main contents are the costume's purpose, it's material, the figure of its wearer, and its form. She argued that the new costume could be in line with the new life and her theory could be the creed of clothing designers. The principles of Lamanova's theory can still be applied today, not only in Russian traditional and contemporary costume, but in contemporary world fashion.

• 복식
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• 제24권
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• pp.47-58
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• 1995

The Study is to find out the thought of costume of the people who advocated the Wejung-chunksa. Conclusions are described as follows 1. The action to boycott western goods was the early response in the Wejung -chuksa Thought. The reason were in fear of ruin in chosun industry and worry about the westernizing the Korean. 2. The people of the Wejung-chuksa had the conservative character in order to maintain the traditional public order and the costume. They thought that costume have a role to distinguish between man and woman , the rich and the poor and so on. Therefore acceptance the wastern constume style meant that the Korean became a savage. So that they rejected the King's order about the dress-system reformation in 1884, 1895. That pointed that their ultimate purpose was to keep the traditional rule. 3. In appearance the purpose of the short-hair law was good for health. But it meant to destory the traditional order and to symbolize the civilization . Especially the short -hair in the people of Wejung-chuksa meant the destruction of the traditional rule and casting away the courtesy. Therefore they wanted to keep the value of the traditional costume.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.1-12
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• 1998

The research was done against female workers in public officers to find out the actual conditions and usage of uniforms worn in government and other public offices, to find out the degree of their satisfaction for it's appearance, costs, functions and representation. The research was done by questioning 402 female workers about their uniforms in various government and other public offices and the results analysed from the research are as it follows below. 1. The shape of uniforms in public offices were mostly in three piece(jacket+vest+skirt) shape, many of them in gray color and the material were made of blended fabrics. 2. The satisfactory garde of the uniform couldn't even reach the level of '3 point', in which it is easy to tell that the workers had low satisfaction with their uniforms. The level of satisfaction in it's appearance, functions, costs and representation were below average, the rankings starting with functions, representation, appearance, costs and it was shown that the most satisfied category was in it's functions and the lest in costs.