• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.93-103
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• 1999

This study is intended to propose the new design course on Contemporary folk Hanbok by researching their preference to Contemporary folk Hanbok. To do so, the definition of styles, preference in details and fitness for the occasion to wear Contemporary folk Hanbok were evaluated and analyzed. The collected materials were investigated in quality and content. As for the data, five Contemporary folk Hanbok brands, in the city were selected and twenty styles from catalog were extracted. The subjected of study were 219 university students living in Seoul and Kwang-ju, Mok-po. they answered the questionnaires, the results of study were following: 1) In style of Contemporary folk Hanbok, there were positive support on longer Jeogori than traditional one and a seamless one-piece skirt at the length of ankle. But they had the negative thought of various spapes shapes related to the styles of Contemporary folk Hanbok. 2) In a view point of coloring on women's Contemporary folk Hanbok, the student supported the saturation more than special preference to similarity or contrast harmony. Students liked the harmony of achromatic colors or same colors up and down which are not traditional 3) In men's Contemporary folk Hanbok, students were for the harmony of same colors in up and down, preferring wool/polyester to cotton or silk100% (traditional materials) in materials 4) It indicates that what students thought generally of the occasional appropriateness of Contemporary folk Hanbok didn't match with the choice of proper occasion on preferred style. The western clothes have difference in design, material, color and manners of co-ordination related to ordinary cloths and out wear, but Contemporary folk Hanbok don't have these difference. Therefore, it is needed to develop the expensive designs discriminated between ordinary clothes and out wear in design, material, color and co-ordination corresponding to the every day life style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.126-134
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• 2014

This study studied female Hanbok that appeared in Korean movies in different periods, and investigated the changes and flow of the Hanbok in the movies based on the design and the form. Research scope is limited to Hanbok in Korean movies released between 1950' and 1980', and in order to study Hanbok in movies, snapshots of Korean movies for each period are used. Pictures are sourced from the Korean movie database, and forms and colors of Hanbok in the pictures are classified into 7 categories. Based on this, characteristics, changes and flow of Hanbok for each period are studied. Based on this, by investigating the Hanbok in Korean movies from silhouette and design perspectives and comparing each period, it is found that the following changes have been made: From 1950' to 1980', generally Min Jeogori (Normal Korean traditional jacket) had a higher rate. Up to early 1960', wide collar and collar strip were trends, but from 70' to 80', they have been remarkably narrowed. After liberation, ease and functional elements of western clothing were accepted. From 1950' to 80', generally wide and round shape sleeve were used. Also, from 50' to 80', normally skirt and Jeogori had the same color and fabric. Lastly. as Hanbok with western style fabric, rather than traditional Hanbok fabric was increasing, Hanbok with variously patterned fabric was shown. The lack of colored pictures led of limited research materials, and so a more accurate and sophisticated research on material and design was not possible, However, it is meaningful that this study has investigated changes and flow of Hanbok in modern Korean movies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.27-34
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• 2004

Jang Heung Lim's is a nephew's wife of Kim Duk Ryung, who had been served as a general of Chosun dynasty. When her Tomb was removed to another places there were excavated some articles such as six Korean traditional costume, Korean socks, Korean shoes (Mituri) and so on. The unearthed costume was designated as a monentous folk materials, No.112, and placed on Gwangju folklore museum. At that time, the mending work in the lost part of costume was not implemented. Only an act of textile conservation was worked. In the article, we go through the mending principles and mending methods in damaged parts of costume. First, the mending principles on the damaged costume are as follows : (1) minimize the repaired parts, (2) mend the only damaged parts, (3) use the same color and cloth as that of original ones, (4) use the appropriated stitching method (5) act the fixed framework in case of missing a outer cloth. Second, the mending method related to the damaged part are as follows : (1) the repairing method in the bodice and sleeve part of costume, (2) the repairing method in the hem of steeve, (3) the repairing method in the collar of costume, (4) the repairing method in the armpit part of costume, (5) the repairing method in the connecting parts between one and another width of Korean traditional long skirt. With this article, we wish that the repairing method in the cultural costume will be developed scientifically and specified efficiently.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.675-683
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• 2002

The purposes of the study were to analyze the changes in formal attires and decorative features of middle age Korean women during the last half of 20th century and to find out any significant differences in formal attires according to periods. The study was a documentary research, and data were collected from 344 family wedding photographs by convenient sampling. The statistics used were content analysis, frequency and a time series analysis, and the results were as follows : 1. Four schematic clusters of formal attires were categorized according to skirt(chima) length and width, jacket(jogori) length, motifs and decorative features; simple classic, decorative classic, fashionable, and extravagant fashionable. Simple classic attires were popular until 1960s, the decorative classics were appeared from late 1960s to 1970s, fashionable attires were introduced from the late 1970s and the attires became more luxurious and extravagant until 2000. 2. Color symbolism in couples mothers'attires according to the couples gender - pink or red for the bride's mother and blue or green for groom's mother - was introduced from the late 1970s, and reached the maximum level by the early 1980s but slowly disappeared after the late 1980s. 3. The complete fashion cycle did not exist in the formal attires'change, however, since the Period of data were ranged from 1943 to 2000, the 57 years period may not long enough to measure a complete fashion cycle.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.1274-1285
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• 2002

The purposes of this study are to help the authorized textbooks on home economics be selected and used effectively, to provide basic data that are needed to improve the quality of home economics textbooks, and to suggest a next curriculum on home economics. In the study, eight high school home economics textbooks for "6th Curriculum developed by Ministrv of Education and Human Resources Development"were used for the analysis. The results are summarized as follows: there were wide differences in degrees of diversity and accomplishment in the contents of textbooks. In comparison, it was unfolded that three areas, "family", "home resource management" and "consumer" ,occupied much larger portions than other areas. About 81 percent of the authors of home economics textbooks were professors. A contents analysis on the clothing area showed that every textbook includes costume culture, clothing materials, clothing maintenance, and clothing construction. The presentation coverages and relative difficulties of textbooks were, however, diverse. It is somewhat noticeable that, while fewer professors majoring in clothing construction participated in writing, generally more pages were allocated to clothing construction than other areas. While presentations on anthropometrics method, construction theory, draft theory, usage of sewing machine and fitting theory were insufficient most textbooks were dealing with drafting of basic slopers and sewing procedure, etc. Making-up techniques on the apparels items such as Korean traditional men's pants, pajamas, shirt vest skirt, pants, apron and Korean pouch were handled closely in each textbook.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.959-967
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• 2011

An importance of design that considers the characteristics of fashion that plays a role of a medium that communicates with customers (and is not simply clothes or products by adding the particular culture factors of a local country to the development of glocalism) is discussed. While the cultural consumption becomes a core key word, the survey of customers is conducted to develop a party-wear design that applies a Korean image suitable for the party culture industry magnified by the young generation's cultural trends. Based on it, we suggest a party-wear design that applies Dancheong's lotus and derive the followed results. The first, one-piece and accessory coordination was the highest by 49.3% for the party-wear coordination and design. In addition, Dancheong was the highest by 16.5% for the traditional pattern (thought to be representative for Korean image). Among the traditional patterns, for a pattern suitable for party-wear, the case applying flowers such as the Japanese apricot flower, lotus flower, and peony was the highest. The second, among the several patterns used Dancheong that was represented by a Korean image of a lotus flower pattern because of the characteristics of strong vitality and blooming in dirty mud was often used for the pattern of clothes. The third, under the motive of the results of the survey and Dancheong's lotus flower pattern, we developed 2 methods of one piece and accessory coordination, 2 methods of top and skirt coordination, and 1 method of jacket and one piece coordination as the party-wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.143-155
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• 2014

This study focuses on Yusam, a military raincoat that was worn during the Joseon Dynasty. The purpose of this study is to review the types and management system of Yusam. Documentary records, paintings and relics were used as research materials. Yusam was recorded as either Yusam(油衫) or Yu-ui(油衣) in writing. It usually looked like a skirt and was worn like a cape, but there were differences in length. Some of them took the form of a short coat with half-sleeves and side slits. Research analysis results of Silrok, Ilseongrok and the archives of the military camp in the later Joseon are as follows: First, Mokyusam and Jiyusam coexisted as military raincoats. Mokyusam was made with cotton and perilla oil, while Jiyusam was made with traditional Korean paper, a cotton edging and perilla oil. Second, the differences between general Yusam and military Yusam include the material of the clothing, the materials for waterproofing, the color, and the manufacturer. Third, each military camp supplied soldiers with hundreds to thousands of Yusam. Military officers and King's guards wore Mokyusam because Mokyusam was higher than Jiyusam. Fourth, soldiers Yusam together with Yujeongeon, Chorip, Galmo, or Hwihang as a hat. Fifth, the higher the rank, the higher the price of Yusam and the longer the term of usage. On the other hand, as the rank got higher, the cost of the supplementary oil rose, while the duration of usage got shorter.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.15-30
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of Hanbok among youngsters based on SNS proof shots, identify new characteristics of Hanbok as part of play and travel rather than as formal Hanbok, and provide information for the Hanbok market. As research methodology, our search was carried out by using '#Hanbok Travel' as the search word in Instagram, where the Hanbok proof shot phenomenon is actively under way. A total of 535 posts from March 21, 2016 to April 1, 2016 were selected as objects of this study, excluding posts containing Hanbok with indiscernible shape, Korean traditional costume manufacturers' promotional posts, and repetitive posts by one person. First, the 535 posts were analyzed by season, region, number of people, and gender, and after men's data were excluded, 644 Hanboks were left for analysis. Their formative characteristics were analyzed by using SPSS 21.0. The results showed that the formative characteristics of Hanbok shown in SNS proof shots included diversification of length in jeogori(Korean traditional jacket), skirt, and sleeve, use of pragmatic material and achromatic color, and reduced use of decorative technique. Hanboks shown in the Hanbok proof shots should be considered as significant data because each shots show clothes selected and worn directly by user's side, unlike the existing studies centering on Hanbok designers' works.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.54-65
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• 2014

This study developed basic pattern for competition figure skating wear for school girls. Figure skating wears are difficult for making basic patterns based on standard size chart, because girls' body size are slimmer and more slender compared to the general girl's and the competition wears such as, swim suit with sleeves are, closely in contact with the player's body. The competition wears for school girl was made with consideration of changing of the body shape, physical exercises, and various specificities according to stretch material. To raise artistic effect while doing beautiful motions, and to assist in facile technique motions, competition wears need to have enough ease on the side line from waist to armpit, from armpit to wrist, and in trunk girth including crotch girth. Also, to stand out in beauty, a costume designing has a proper skirt position, length, flare width, and a tight bodice according to the player's body proportion. Most of the customers are displeased at the high price, unfitness of size, insufficient design, and difficulty in access, since they are not sold in sporting goods store. Therefore, a competition wear's basic pattern was made through scientific and emotional process including concerns on material properties, room for activities, and ideal body proportion. Systemizing the basic patterns of production method will solve high repairing expenses, unsuitable sizing, and improve accessibility for purchase.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.42-53
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to study doll's symbolism representing our social culture and the characteristics of clothing design. The ball joint doll was selected, that are pretty much resembled to human body in terms of facial expression, body proportion, joint movement, etc. Results of research are summarized as follows: the ball joint doll is indicated a doll whose joints are free to move with a round shaped joint, which originated by Yochilya simon, who adopted German Hans Bellmer's method.'rho ball joint doll, first, there appeared state of human isolation due to the material civilization and industrial revolution, and trend of adhering to one's own world made human possess dolls. Second, according to the doll play became a representing play culture among Kidult culture, dolls, that are resembled with human being, were recognized as personalized objects. Third, along of expanding digital culture that makes easy to exchange information via Internet, so, ball joint doll market is growing fast, for which various levels of mania are being formed. Take a look at the doll fashion in modern society. In accordance to form of Look, it is largely categorized Young Casual look, Office look, Ethnic look and Military look. When take a look at design specialty, young casual look was presented as a comfortable silhouette and also made of elastic materials and expressed vivid bright tones. Office look image was expressed as a suit of jacket with skirt, and cotton wool polyester materials and acro-matic colors. Ethnic look was represented by Japanese traditional dress and Chinese traditional clothing. The Military look was generally emphasized army uniforms of straight silhouette and shoulder straps.