• Title/Summary/Keyword: the 18th Century

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A Textile Analysis of Woolen Carpet Excavated from Seongjeonggak Hall, in Changdeokgung Palace (창덕궁 성정각 출토 모담(毛毯) 직물 분석)

  • Pak, Seonghee;Lee, Ryangmi;An, Boyeon;Cho, Misook
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.37 no.2
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    • pp.120-134
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    • 2021
  • A Woolen carpet from the late Joseon Dynasty was unearthed in the process of repairing Seongjeonggak in Changdeokgung. Since relics are rarer than documentary records, the woolen carpet is highly valued as a relics. It is presumed to have been woven in the late 19th or early 20th century because there is a record of repairing Seongjeonggak in 1907. In the carpet, a pattern is made by inserting colored yarn dyed yellow and red onto a reddish-purple ground weave. The selvage of the woolen carpet used cotton thread, and jute is used for the warp and weft of the ground weave. The colored patterns is made of wool in the form of loop pile. Cut piles may appear occasionally when the colored yarn changes, but are almost invisible from the surface because they are pressed tightly with a shuttered weft. Making carpets with jute and wool is thought to be influenced by the Brussels carpets of the mid-18th century. Furthermore, the woolen carpet is torn and the pattern is completely unclear; however, it is understandable that the pattern is partially repeated. Microscopic and Fourier transform-Infrared spectrometer(FT-IR) analyses were performed for the above investigation. To identify the dyes used in relics, we compared them with natural dyed fabric samples based on chromaticity measurements and Ultraviolet/Visible spectrophotometer(UV-Vis) analysis. These analyses revealed that the woolen carpet's dyed green yarn did not use indigo, and reddish-purple ground weave is estimated to have used Caesalpinia sappan.

Interpretation of C.C.L.Hirschfeld's Theory of Garden Art in Contemporary Meaning and Its Significance (히르시펠트(C.C.L.Hirschfeld) 정원예술론의 의미와 가치의 현대적 해석)

  • Zoh, Kyung-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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    • v.32 no.3
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    • pp.58-68
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    • 2014
  • Christian Cay Lorenz Hirschfeld is often regarded as 'a father of landscape garden art.' He was an aesthetics professor and garden theoretician in the $18^{th}$ century. He put forth the most comprehensive garden theory book in five volumes between 1779 and 1785. His book, Theorie der Gartenkunst, was translated and widely circulated in his contemporary. The book, which dealt with diverse aspects of garden art such as history, design, material, and type, urged to promote the prevalence of landscape garden in European continents as well as in Germany. However, there have scarcely been discourses in the Hirschfeld's garden theory. This essay aims to review Hirschfeld's garden thoughts in his book critically and to reinterpret some issues in the contemporary landscape theory and practice. Hirschfeldian theory was the product of $18^{th}$ century German Enlightenment and romanticism. At that time, Nature was regarded as divine realm. There was a German affinity with natural world. The spread of reading culture and the fashion of travel literature were another background of the success of his garden literature. Several issues in Hirschfeld garden theory will discussed here. First, privileging garden art was the most significant contribution in his theory. He emphasized that garden art was the most advanced art form among all art genres. Second, garden art was grounded on the mimesis of nature. The ambiguous relationship between nature and art still existed in garden making. However, garden art can be flourished when utilizing the potency of nature in itself. Third, there was the association between the image and the idea in experiencing the garden. Some garden scenes stimulated the related emotional responses such as cheerful and merry, softly melancholic, romantic, solemn etc. Fourth, the movement was the essential aspect of garden art. Motion and emotion are come together in garden experience. To represent the landscape garden style in suitable way, the sketch or image seems to be preferable than the plans and views. Finally, garden art was composing of not only the physical space but also the spirit of place. He maintained the garden art as hortus moralis should be a social metaphor. Hirschfeldian garden theory has often been criticized as the lack of practical power and the old fashioned idea. However, his theory influenced on formulating the idea of public park in $19^{th}$ century. Moreover, there are still some visionary aspects of his theory such as the reevaluation of garden art, the emphasis of locality and the introduction of Mittelweg idea. Recently, gardening culture are prevalent in various realms of art and life. Hirschfeld's garden theory as humanistic landscape theory can provide us some insights in the contemporary practices.

Assessing the Parasitic Burden in a Late Antique Florentine Emergency Burial Site

  • Roche, Kevin;Pacciani, Elsa;Bianucci, Raffaella;Bailly, Matthieu Le
    • Parasites, Hosts and Diseases
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    • v.57 no.6
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    • pp.587-593
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    • 2019
  • Excavation (2008-2014) carried out under the Uffizi Gallery (Florence, Italy) led to the discovery of 75 individuals, mostly buried in multiple graves. Based on Roman minted coins, the graves were preliminarily dated between the second half of the 4th and the beginning of the 5th centuries CE. Taphonomy showed that this was an emergency burial site associated with a catastrophic event, possibly an epidemic of unknown etiology with high mortality rates. In this perspective, paleoparasitological investigations were performed on 18 individuals exhumed from 9 multiple graves to assess the burden of gastrointestinal parasitism. Five out of eighteen individuals (27.7%) tested positive for ascarid-type remains; these are considered as "decorticated" Ascaris eggs, which have lost their outer mammillated coat. Roundworms (genus Ascaris) commonly infest human populations under dire sanitary conditions. Archaeological and historical evidence indicates that Florentia suffered a period of economic crisis between the end of 4th and the beginning of the 5th centuries CE, and that the aqueduct was severely damaged at the beginning of the 4th century CE, possibly during the siege of the Goths (406 CE). It is more than plausible that the epidemic, possibly coupled with the disruption of the aqueduct, deeply affected the living conditions of these individuals. A 27.7% frequency suggests that ascariasis was widespread in this population. This investigation exemplifies how paleoparasitological information can be retrieved from the analysis of sediments sampled in cemeteries, thus allowing a better assessment of the varying frequency of parasitic infections among ancient populations.

The Costume in the Era of Practical Science (II) - The Bukhak idea in the late of the 18th century - (실학사상기의 복식문화(II) - 18세기 후반 북학사상을 중심으로 -)

  • 정혜경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.18 no.1
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    • pp.101-112
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    • 1994
  • The objectives of this study are to find out the process of changes of the costume in the era of practical science, and to search the bukhak's view of the costume. Conclusions are described as follows 1. The bukhak pursued the function and the rationality in men's costumes, and healed with the welfare point of view in the commons and humbles clothes, and criticized the phenomenon of over-fashion in women's costume. 2. They contended for thrift against the luxury. But as they had also a modem thinking at the same time, they seemed to have a flexibility. Therefore they persued the essential courtesy in manners and costume. 3. The common people of Yi dynasty had the idea that Yi dynasty is a small China replace by Ming dynasty. But the bukhak had a self-existent standpoint and a realistic idea to the Ch'ing dynasty. But they would have received the Minis culture as the reactionism in the costume. Chinese envied or ridiculed the korean costume. 4. It was the pursuit of the rationality that the Bukhak presented the direction of the costume. They contended for the growth of the business and the development of technique in order to reform the clothing industry.

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Metallurgical Analysis of Iron Artifacts Excavated from the Yeongsan River Basin (영산강유역 출토 철기유물의 미세조직 분석)

  • Lee, Jae-Sung;Kim, Soo-Ki
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.18 s.18
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    • pp.33-50
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    • 2006
  • Around Yeongsan river basin, there are Yeongkwang Gundong, Muan Inpyeong Tombs, Muu Gusan-ri Tombs and Hampyeong Guksan remain from which a lot of iron artifacts were excavated. Among them, 6 iron artifacts were chosen, and their microstructures were analyzed. As a result, Iron artifacts were produced sponge iron by the low temperature reduction process and a part of microstructure have the possibility that steel made by decarburizing. And also, by tempering the parts which need high strength, the iron artifacts had high strength and by distributing the weakness of the tempered structure to the nearby untempered parts, their breaking was prevented and they had the durability. These skills were used then. Especially these skills were found to be used in the 2nd century by high skilled people because an iron axe excavated at Yeongkwang Gundong of 2nd century by the historical record showed that the skill was used. Also microstructures were found to show the possibility that the iron technology was inherited to the late 5th century. When producing iron artifacts made of sponge iron containing small amount of carbon, that was made by the production process repeating molding, carburizing, heat treatment and hammering.

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A Study of Dress Characteristics with Respect to Anti-Social Resisting Consciousness - Focus on the Relationship between 18th Century Sans-Culotte and a Hippy Style During the 1960s and 1970s as a Comparative Perspective - (반사회적 의식이 반영된 시대복식의 특성에 관한 연구 - 18세기 상-뀔로뜨와 1960, 70년대 히피 스타일의 비교를 중심으로 -)

  • Jun, Yuh-Sun;Kim, Young-Sam
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.6
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    • pp.112-126
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    • 2012
  • The style of a dress allows important characterization of an era since they reflect contemporary politics, society, culture and arts. Within a same category, period costumes develop into styles that reflect specific consciousness. The research method and the scope of the study are as follows: the research adopts a historical study method and a comparative research from a microscopic point. The scope includes resistance costumes that proceed with sans-culotte that comprises of the resistance party during the 18th French Revolution (1783-1799), and also a Hippy style which was popularized during the 1960s and 1970s for its anti-war movement. We researched both similarities and differences of design factors reflecting resisting consciousness in costumes that affected costume characteristics related to their socio-cultural background. Sans-culotte and the Hippie style reflect a common denominator in anti-social resisting customs. First, they show common characteristics that combine fashion trends of resistant element and design features. Second, they have common features which are the characteristics of deviation. On the other hand, these two customs also present a discriminative denominator in anti-social resisting customs. In the case of sans-culotte, they tend to symbolize confrontation by dividing into two equal parts: the old and new mode. Sans-culotte confronts the conventional mode and promotes practical costume styles based on justice standpoints. First, hippies pursue an exposition of individual emotions that disclose internal meanings of love and desire. Second, they focus on subjective characteristics and chase after masteries and pleasures by expressing intensity. Third, it extends and develops folk costumes from many countries that reveal ethnic trends. Therefore, this research compares and contrasts different changes in the fashions of revolutionary periods, and aims to recognize the relationship between design and costume characteristics, thus contributing to the predictions of future changes in fashion.

The history of awareness for ginseng in Vietnam (베트남의 고려인삼 인식에 대한 소고)

  • Ock, Soonjong
    • Journal of Ginseng Culture
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    • v.1
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    • pp.78-92
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    • 2019
  • Among the Southeast Asian countries, Vietnam had the most cultural exchange with Korea. Through Confusion and Chinese character, which were the common measure for two countries, Korea and Vietnam could communicate and share a sentiment with each other. Two countries showed an enormous interest in each other, and hence they could keep good relationship without official diplomatic relations. During the early 19th century, Korean Ginseng had gained tremendous popularity in Vietnam. Vietnamese believed the stamina of Minh Mang, who had 142 sons and daughters, originated from ginseng. Minh Mang bestowed ginseng on old courtiers for their contribution, which made them more loyal to the king. This tradition was inherited to the future generations, and soldiers who fought with Thai, Cambodia and France also received ginseng for their contribution. In other words, ginseng was the very important key for enforcement of patriotism. Due to the tradition, Korean ginseng has been considered as the premium ginseng in Vietnam. It is presumed that ginseng flew into Vietnam through 4 routes; 1) as an imperial gift from Chinese emperor, 2) by the Vietnamese ambassadors who went to Beijing for a tribute, 3) through private trade and 4) from Ryukyu or Japan, which were the hub of international trade. From 15th to 18th century, ambassadors from Chosun and Vietnam actively interacted in Beijing. Through their interchange, Vietnamese royal family could learn about the value of ginseng. The fact that there were many Shilhak scholars among the ambassadors from Joseon, such as Seo Geojeong and Seo Hosu who had profound knowledge of ginseng proves the theory. It is also possible that reputation of ginseng was already established in Vietnam during Silla period. Ko Byung, an bureaucrat from Tang Dynasty who ruled Vietnam for 10 years in middle 9th century and a friend of Choi Chiwon, might have delivered the knowledge of ginseng to the upper class in Vietnam. This hypothesis, however, should be proven by literatures. Hence, further research about the trace of Korean ginseng in Vietnamese history and literary works still remains to be done.

Predicting the Potential Distribution of Korean Pine (Pinus koraiensis) Using an Ensemble of Climate Scenarios (앙상블 기후 시나리오 자료를 활용한 우리나라 잣나무림 분포 적지 전망)

  • Kim, Jaeuk;Jung, Huicheul;Jeon, Seong Woo;Lee, Dong-Kun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Environmental Restoration Technology
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    • v.18 no.2
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    • pp.79-88
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    • 2015
  • Preparations need to be made for Korean pine(Pinus koraiensis) in anticipation of climate change because Korean pine is an endemic species of South Korea and the source of timber and pine nut. Therefore, climate change adaptation policy has been established to conduct an impact assessment on the distribution of Korean pine. Our objective was to predict the distribution of Korean pine while taking into account uncertainty and afforestation conditions. We used the 5th forest types map, a forest site map and BIOCLIM variables. The climate scenarios are RCP 4.5 and RCP 8.5 for uncertainty and the climate models are 5 regional climate models (HadGEM3RA, RegCM4, SNURCM, GRIMs, WRF). The base period for this study is 1971 to 2000. The target periods are the mid-21st century (2021-2050) and the end of the 21st century (2071-2100). This study used the MaxEnt model, and 50% of the presences were randomly set as training data. The remaining 50% were used as test data, and 10 cross-validated replicates were run. The selected variables were the annual mean temperature (Bio1), the precipitation of the wettest month (Bio13) and the precipitation of the driest month (Bio14). The test data's ROC curve of Korean pine was 0.689. The distribution of Korean pine in the mid-21st century decreased from 11.9% to 37.8% on RCP 4.5 and RCP 8.5. The area of Korean pine at an artificial plantation occupied from 32.1% to 45.4% on both RCPs. The areas at the end of the 21st century declined by 53.9% on RCP 4.5 and by 86.0% on RCP 8.5. The area of Korean pine at an artificial plantation occupied 23.8% on RCP 4.5 and 7.2% on RCP 8.5. Private forests showed more of a decrease than national forests for all subsequent periods. Our results may contribute to the establishment of climate change adaptation policies for considering various adaptation options.

Chinese "External Medicine" and Its Views of the Body: A Case Study of the Manuscript "A Treatise on Seeking the Roots of Ulcer Medicine" (Yangyi Tan Yuan Lun (瘍醫探源論)) (中醫外科?什?不動手術? - ?代手抄本 ≪瘍醫探源論≫ 的身體物質觀)

  • Li, Jianmin
    • The Journal of Korean Medical History
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    • v.28 no.2
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    • pp.121-138
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    • 2015
  • This paper primarily discusses the materiality of the body in Chinese "external medicine". Chinese external medicine views the body as something consisting of sinew and flesh. Furthermore, there are times when Chinese surgical techniques must be applied to the body in order to manage rotting flesh and other abnormal manifestations. The materiality of the Chinese body of external medicine encompasses the way in which Chinese doctors manufactured surgical implements, the sick person's bodily experience of pus and pain associated with external diseases, and the details of the process by which doctors evaluated whether or not to carry out surgical interventions. This essay will use the Qing manuscript "A Treatise on Seeking the Roots of Ulcer Medicine" as a central case study for discussing these issues, while also showing the connections between it and other external medicine texts of the Ming and Qing era. Its author, Zhu Feiyuan, was a doctor who lived during the 18th to 19th century in Qingpu (today's Shanghai). My essay will thus discuss Chinese external medicine from a historical perspective. The way in external medicine treated illness differed from the prescriptions and pulse signs that "internal medicine" employed, and its view of the body likewise differed from that of internal medicine. I hope that this essay can provide new viewpoints on the history of the body in Chinese medicine.

A Study on the Relationship between the Costume of Court Masque and English Renaissance Fashion -Focusing on the Elizabethan and Jacobean Period- (르네상스시대 궁정가면극 의상과 영국복식의 관계성 연구 -엘리자베스 1세와 제임스 1세 통치기간을 중심으로-)

  • 배수정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.3
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    • pp.1-18
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between costumes of court masque and the fashion trend at that time, by the analysis of the portraits. The period in this thesis is from Elizabeth I (1588-1603), until James I (1603-1625), when Inigo Jones was actively involved in court in masque, and when the traits of court masque began to appear in costume. The research material of this thesis is from the papers, costume design sketches, portraits and miniatures. As a result the costume of court masque which is the mixture of that of ancient Greece, Rome, middle age, and the exotic style of Ireland and Persian, had a great impact on the general fashion, and the unique pattern f costume became prevalent in the end of 16th and the early 17th century. This thesis might help us understand and special costume of that age and study the way how it come to have an influence on the fashion of the costume pertaining mainly to the privileged class.