• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.13 no.1 s.37
• /
• pp.71-81
• /
• 2004

The $18^{th}$ century's Industrial Revolution brought about influx of commerce, industry, and agricultural population into the urban areas, entering the $19^{th}$ century. Quality of rural communities declined, and the exploding population in the cities gave rise to various problems. 'Mietskaserne' Blockhousing was constructed by the 'Hobrechtplan', but led to social problems such as poor living conditions, insufficient sunshine due to overcrowding, slums due to incomplete urban infrastructure, epidemics, and so on. Starting in the early $20^{th}$ century, Berlin has driven forward a remodeling plan under the motto of 'critical reconstruction (kritische Rekonstruktion)'. It is performed in the place, which represents the vicissitudinous history of Berlin with site plans coexisting past with presence, using modern vocabulary of architectural forms. Reconstructing a city is a process which not only raises the economic value of each building consisting a city, but also a redevelopment process that brings out cultural value of an era. When a new era emerges buildings get reconstructed or rebuilt, and thereby form the identity of a city by reflecting its society, culture, politics, economy, and history. Old German architecture were not destroyed or rebuilt recklessly just by the fact that they are functionally or aesthetically outdated. Each building is treated as precious cultural heritage reflecting the history. This is how Berlin is being transformed today.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.8
• /
• pp.157-172
• /
• 2016

This study aims to present findings of historical design trends of men's fashion, and the characteristics of changes in the types of overcoats and mid jackets shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. The primary data sources for this study comprised one pattern book, each of the17th and 18th century, and 15 pattern books of the 19th century, all of which are conserved by the French National Library. The study methods are as follows: First, analysis of men's fashion trends and the characteristics of changes by type as shown in French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Second, analysis of the evolution of type of men's overcoats and top-exterior- and-interior (outside) styles shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. As a result, a total of 69 type references were collected from French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Historically, men's fashion was largely classified into top-exterior, top-exterior-and-interior, top-interior, bottoms and accessories. The two major classifications were as follows: top-exteriors overcoats and robes, And top-exterior-and-interior as top-exterior-and-interior(outside) and top-exterior-and-interior (inside). The study also identified the forms and changes by type. Additionally, this study selected overcoats and top-exterior-and-interior(outside) which fall under typical categories to show the change in the forms of men's fashion of the 19th century. These changes in the types were designated as: continued, faded away, newly appeared and transformed. This study analyzed the time of appearance of the forms by the year of publishing in conjunction with cultural references from previous domestic and international studies. The results showed that the time of changes in the types shown in pattern books did not deviate from the mainstream, which verified their typicality.

• English & American cultural studies
• /
• v.17 no.1
• /
• pp.81-106
• /
• 2017

Using recently emerging quantitative methods, this article provides a comparative study of the diachronic changes in the narrations of novel, history, and science from the early 18th-century to the 20th-century. To trace the narrative changes in different genres, this article discusses how text-mining methodology can be introduced in literary studies. We compared the traces of narrative in three genres—novel, history, and science—as a pilot study, with the three major grammatical elements of narrative: pronoun, subordinating conjunction, and action verbs in past tense. The results of data-mining show that the use of pronoun and action verb has increased in the genre of novel toward the $20^{th}$ century, while history and science has developed less story-like writing styles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.32-43
• /
• 2011

This study investigate the transition about Japanese national costume kimono. The prototype of the present kimono is a kosode. The origin of kosode dates back to the mid-Heian period, when this type of kimono served as the everyday wear of commoners and an undergarment for court nobles, both men and women. In the Muromachi period, particularly after the Onin war, the kosode began to be by people of all classes. In the Muromachi period, kosode consisted mainly of woven textiles. In the Momoyama period, kosode became very elaborate, employing such various techniques as tie-dyeing, embroidery, metallic leaf(surihaku) and free-hand painting. These were further combined resulting in such techniques as tsujigahana dyeing and nuihaku, which are now considered to epitomize Momoyama-period textile design. A category of kosode of the early Edo period, known as Keicho kosode, is fashioned mainly from black, white, or red figured satin(rinzu), or from figured satin segmented in these three colors. Books of kosode designs began to be published in the Kambun era, when the merchant class was becoming economically powerful, kosode began to reflect its taste. During its final stage of development in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, yuzen dyeing achieved wide acceptance. From the late 18th century toward the early 19th century, kosode worn by the merchant class underwent drastic changes, while those worn by the samurai class changed little. In the after the late 18th century, clear differences in design and decorative methods appeared between the kosode worn by rich merchants and those worn by middle and lower class merchants.

• Korean Medical Education Review
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.58-64
• /
• 2016

The birth of the scientific revolution, brought forth by Vesalius and Copernicus in 1543, marked the beginning of a new age. However, the changes such as treatment effectiveness, survival rate, prevalence of specific diseases, etc. had not yet become clear during the 16th century. In the early 17th century, Boerhaave emphasized bedside teaching and practice. His attitude influenced numerous students and educators, so many medical students visited hospital wards where he worked. From the late 18th to 19th centuries, Jenner's smallpox vaccination, Pasteur's anthrax and rabies vaccinations, and Koch's four postulates used to detect pathogens were developed using the scientific research method, which initiated big changes for medicine. Flexner, credited for reporting the new medical education system, adopted scientific medicine. He believed medical students must study basic medical science since it could be the foundation of clinical medicine and lead to a revolution in the field. He proposed a new medical curriculum composed of two-years of basic medicine and two-years of clinical medicine, which has been used more than 100 years. During the late 20th century, bedside teaching rounds decreased gradually as scientific medicine has become popular. Many medical educators in many articles have proposed bedside education as an effective method for medical learning. Despite the advent of the age of artificial intelligence and the changing of medical environments in the near future, bedside education will be more useful and important for medical students, educators, and patients as it is a traditional method and essential for patients who desire a more personal approach.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.47
• /
• pp.125-142
• /
• 1999

Dancing along with mankind has existed in various ways form old age to the present. This dancing combined with artistic meaning is called the art of dancing. This study is mainly about the functions decorations and expressions of dancing costume and the claracteristics of the costumes by the 20th century designers Leon bakst Oskar Schlemer Pablo Picasso. The dancing costume were not so much different from those of the public from old age to middle age. In 18th and 19th centuries the length of the cotstumes become short from the knee to the thigh. The functions have much to do with the development of dancing for example the appearance of toeshoes. The costumes are designed not to prevent the movements of dancers smooth line in old age and ladylike vend high-blown line in the 18th and 19th centuries. Cotton and hemp textiles are turning into the transparent forms such as lace and gauge. The personal ornaments earings and necklaces have change into the pattern with wings and tassels. The dancing costumes of Leon Bakst Oskar Schlemer and Pablo Picasso are designed after the due consideration of body shape. Bakst focused on the beauty of smooth lines with splendid colors and decorations. Schlemer analyzed the body abstractly and metaphysically and expressed it with detaile and simple lines. Picasso emphasized cubic forms with cubism and expressed the characteristics of costumes with clear colors and smooth curved line. Bakst Schlemer and Picasso made the early 20th century the age of functional dancing costumes putting a light on the concept of space and foundation for the modern dancing costumes.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.29 no.5
• /
• pp.29-40
• /
• 2020

Ui-Gum-Bu(義禁府) is regarded as a key organization that reflects the power of the royal authority, mainly because it directly obeys the king's command and retains the power to punish or pardon government officials for severe crimes such as treason or significant breach of Confucian ethics. For this reason, Ui-Gum-Bu held a higher place in the organizational hierarchy of the government than other similar offices such as Hyung-Jo(刑曹), Sa-Heon-Bu(司憲府) and P o-Do-Cheong(捕盜廳). This characteristic of Ui-Gum-Bu is also evident in the architectural style and composition of the office building. The figures of the Ui-Gum-Bu office is depicted in detail in the paintings listed in 『Gum-Oh-Gye-Cheop(金吾契帖』, a record of Ui-Gum-Bu office meetings, and descriptions in the code book 『Gum-Oh-Hun-Rog(金吾契帖)』, both written in 18th century. The purpose of this study is to reveal the overall transition process of the Ui-Gum-Bu office building from the beginning until its demolition in the early 20th century. Based on research materials of 18th century, its architectural composition and characteristics will be dealt in detail.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.16 no.6
• /
• pp.67-86
• /
• 2007

Choseon Dynasty, from many aspects, saw the institutional establishment of its royal palaces in the 17th and 18th century, with 'donggwol (east palace)' as the most representative form in the era. In that period, palaces were managed in the best way that fits the royal etiquette and order to maintain the Confucian framework of the times. While the royal palace was the place for the king to conduct state affairs, it was also a compound for the royal family to lead a life in. Since the royal family was also based on the Confucian system, women in the royal palace seldom revealed their existence to outside world. Yet daebi,(a Queen Mother) who was often called 'dongjo,' enjoyed the highest level of honor not only as a member of the royal family but in the hierarchical order of the dynasty. As they often engaged themselves in political affairs, daebi raised their reputation through rites and rituals. So, in the 16th century, they largely used Changgyeong-gung palace in the eastern part of the royal compound since they sometimes had to go out of the royal residence. While it was called 'dongjo' because it was seated in the eastern part, it was also used as a word symbolizing daebi. And, therefore, it has become a general principle of royal palaces to build the palace for daebi in the eastern wing of the compound. However, the residence for daebi was not always built in the eastern part in the 17th and 18th century and, instead, edifices for daebi were sometimes erected in several points within the royal compound. Beside, daebi's residence in this period had additional spaces for ceremonies since they had a number of official events there. Construction of daebi's residences in this era was not confined to the symbolic institutions and they became the peculiar palaces with specific characteristics for official ceremonies of the queen mothers. Consequently, it could be said that the architectural style of dongjo, which was the place of the supreme female in the hierarchical order, stemmed from donggwol where daebi spent the longest time of the royal life.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.6
• /
• pp.1034-1046
• /
• 2009

Based upon literature survey, this research aims to analyze western children's clothing and characteristics over centuries. It was not until the 18th century that children were given serious consideration and that fabrication of clothing began to be designed only for children. The very first clothes which revolutionized children's wear was 'a la matelot' in the 18th century which freed children from physical restriction, recognized gender difference, and sailor suit became popular among all sexes and adopted as school uniform. And then children's clothing was shortened in length and adopted tubular silhouette, which allowed greater comfort and movement. The 20th century saw children's wear reform to be carried out after the World War II due to invention of synthetic fiber, easy care dress material, mass production system and sophistication of marketing methods. Further evidence of improvement of children's social status can be found in contemporary designs: for example, 'casualized' wear, 'character design' which reflects children's psychology and 'family look' which is designed to be worn with mothers. This evolution of children's clothing within western dressing support the view that children's clothing is not a miniature of adult wear but it reflects idiosyncrasies of the era and exerts children's dignity.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.29 no.3
• /
• pp.51-66
• /
• 2020

Paldalmun gate was built in 1794 as the southern gate of Suwon Hwaseong. The signboard's paintworks of Paldalmun gate was applied to the signboard of the state-run building in the 18th century. The signboard of Paldalmun gate was repainted along with the building when repaired in 1969. In that time, the signboard's paintworks during the reign of Jeongjo era was transformed. The purpose of this study is to restore the image of Jeongjo era paintworks on the Paldalmun's signboard, which has been modified since the 1960s due to modification. For the purpose of the examination, we examined the traces of paintworks remaining on the signboard of Paldalmun gate and examined several state-run signboards decorated with 'Yukhwamoon' paintings similar as the signboard of Paldalmun gate, which made around the 18th century. Through the above-mentioned researches, typical color features were identified in the decorated with 'Yukhwamoon' paintings on signboard in the 18th and 19th centuries. In addition, the type of pigment used in the signboard's paintwork of Paldalmun gate was verified through the 『Hwaseong Seongyeok Uigwe(華城城役儀軌)』 and the 『Han-gul Jeongri Uigwe(한글整理儀軌)』, while analyzing the characteristics of age-related deterioration according to the type of paintworks in various traces of pigment coatings remaining on the signboard of Paldalmun gate.