• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.99-109
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• 2007

In the 19th century, a series of study by Hittorff, Semper, Ruskin, and others on architectural polychromy in various perspectives appeared. This presumed that the architectural polychromy could become an essential part of architectural composition and contribute to create new architectural style, if not, at least new architectural and cultural context of the 19th century, the period when it is considered that the stylistic evolution in architecture is absent. In the course of the stylistic development of church architecture of the 19th century in France, the architectural polychromy, grounded in a theory of representation, played a critical role as one of the main sources to create new architectural vision. The church architecture during the Second Empire in France was particularly susceptible to be influenced by this inevitable phenomenon, which signified an epistemological mutation in architectural perception beyond optical and perspective effect in the history of architecture. Here the study attempts to recognize the aesthetic value of the architectural polychromy in the 19th century, and investigate its application, as not just an aspect of architectural embellishment but an indispensable portion of architectural vocabulary, on the church architecture in France throughout the 19th century, then to define its role in creating new architectural environment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.167-180
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• 2011

The portraits created in the age of Queen Elizabeth I show a very exquisite description about the ruff collar and cuffs representing the notable evolution of periodical costumes from a detailed viewpoint. This thesis analyzes the ruff collar and cuffs of the portraits of Queen Elizabeth I. The method used selects 32 pieces from the portraits of Queen Elizabeth I that are considered excellent depictions of a ruff collar and cuffs, to investigate size, form and decorations. Conclusively, the ruff collar tends to be extremely enlarged and thickened (coinciding with the development of glue) while the cuffs denote the aspect of double cuffs coupled with the turn-back cuffs without a change in size. These traits were widely shown from 1585 to 1587, while after 1588 the ruff cuffs completely disappeared in the portraits of Elizabeth I. At the same time, the change of a ruff collar was remarkable, the collar being in the erect position behind the head (with the use of supporters), of a consistent thickness and decoration of elaborate lace. During the transition period from the $16^{th}$ century to the $17^{th}$ century the earliest change was in cuffs followed by collars. This research is a helpful guide to detect the relatively exact date of portraits not definitively identified in the latter part of the $16^{th}$ century and to observe the microscopic evolution of costumes in the latter part of the $16^{th}$ century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.242-256
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• 1999

A Study on the construction of Chulik in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from the excavated grave of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461∼1528) is reported in this paper. This paper first reviews the general construction methodology found in the shrouds from other graves in early 16th century revealed from a report on Chulik from the excavated grave of Kim, Heumjo. This paper finds that there exist at least three different Chulik forms according to the ratios between upper portion and lower portion in Chulik. The upper portion to the lower portion ratio grows with time. Among the three forms, this Chulik of interest falls in the first one of the three forms. This new finding of the chronological evidence for the first category of the three forms provides us the latest chronology for the first category, which is up to the year 1567. This paper also shows that the second and the third categories of Chulik in early Chosun Dynasty lasted until 1580\`s and until 1590\`s, respectively. Several remarks on construction methodology found in the Chulik of interest are also reported in this paper.

• Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea Planning & Design
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.79-88
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the plan type of excavation remains during the Mid to Late Joseon period around Jong-ro area in Seoul. 523 building remains were selected in accordance with plan type could identified through the excavation investigation report. Among these, 276 building remains were verified to the $15-16^{th}$, 145 and 102 building were verified to the 17-18th and the $19^{th}$ century. By classifying excavation remains, four dominant plan type of the each century came out. First, -shape was the most common plan type took nearly 50 percent. In a considerable proportion of cases, this plan type seems an annex of main building. However, -shape plan type also seemed to be used for main building in some cases. ㄱ and ㄷshape plan type took the second and the third. In most cases, these types seemed typical plan used for a main housing building. For the last, ㅁshape plan type identified the most unusual. This plan type merely took under five percent but, these cases are meaningful because it shows the plan alteration from ㄷshape to ㅁshape plan type. Existence proportion between each plan types of the $15-16^{th}$ century were continued to the $18-19^{th}$century without small changes between -and ㄱ types in $17-18^h$ century. By examining selected excavation remains, installing front Toi space on ㄱ, ㄷ and ㅁshape plan type stand out clearly compared with -shape plan type. From this tendency, it could be considered that plan type became a significant factor influenced installing Toi space. Similar to periodical tendency of plan type was not changed dramatically, the rate of installing Toi space in the $15-16^{th}$ century was not changed much until the $18-19^{th}$ century. It also shows the close relation between plan type and installing Toi space. In some excavation remains, floor type in the $15-16^{th}$ century also verified. There are some points of similarities on installing typical location of On-dol, Ma-ru and Bu-eok in these excavation remains with later period housing type such as Ut-Bang-Gguk-Oem-Jib and Ddeul-Jib.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.49-61
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• 2019

This study aims to examine the spatial recognition of the characters who visited Anuisamdong(安義三洞) in the past and left it in the literature. Thus, the school's relationship between people identified in the relevant literature was analyzed and the elements of landscape were extracted. The results were as follows; First, The figures who authored the literature on Anuisamdong were related to scholars living in Anuihyun(安義縣), along with the Yeongnam confucian genealogy. Starting with Jung, Yeo-Chang(鄭汝昌) in the 15th century, a relationship centered on Nammyeong School(南溟學派) in the 16th century was formed. At that time, people had toured the Anuisamdong regardless of the academic background. In the 17th century, Nammyeong School were in conflict with Toegye School(退溪學派), so Toegye School's influence had no record. In the 18th century, the proportion of Nammyeong School, Toegye School, and Kiho School(畿湖學派) appeared similar as they evolved into the Yeongnam School(嶺南學派). After the 19th century, the proportion of patriots who participated in the anti-Japanese movement was higher than that of schools. Second, The main places used in the literature related to Anuisamdongwere the order of Wonhakdong(猿鶴洞), Hwrimdong(花林洞) and Simjindong(尋眞洞). There are a total of 21 major elements used for the related literature, of which Suseungdae Rock(搜勝臺), Morijae House(某里齋), Nongwaljeong Pavilion(弄月亭), Sasundae Rock(四仙臺) and Cheoksuam Rock(滌愁巖) were the main subjects. Elements of Wonhakdong have been in the spotlight since the 16th century, focusing on Suseungdae Rock. Although the elements of Hwarimdong have been increasing gradually since the 18th century, the ratio of Simjindong to Wonhakdong and Hwarimdong was relatively small. Third, The relationship between the figures who visited the Anuisamdong and the spatial recognition of the Anuisamdong was divided into landscape awareness, emotional awareness and symbolic recognition. The Anuisamdong's scenic view is mostly identified by its description of the waterscape and topographical landscape, which people may have perceived as a scenic site centered on the valley view at the time. The mutual influence of Nammyeong School and Toegye School in the 16th and 17th centuries led to a scene in which the major figures of each school recognized pleasure as a culture of training, and a feeling of longing for the traces of past ancestors as the 18th century travel culture and the 19th century chaotic situation. In addition, the symbolic expression that usually appears is likely to have been recognized as a unworldly place, as the location of the immortal world is confirmed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.135-143
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• 2006

The definition of the 'Pocket', according to the Korean encyclopedia, is an accessory that a person puts in small belongings or money and carry on waist or holds with a hand. Since the pockets were not attached to the clothes at that period of time, the portable bag or pocket had been used without distinction of age or sex for carrying personal belongings. The pocket in France was also used in a similar manner, where it was used as a handbag to carry purse, comb, or a key by women during the middle ages. The pockets were decorated, made of quality material such as velvet, silk, or satin with splendid embroidery or beads. This study closely examines the history of the pocket from late 16th century around Renaissance to early 20th century in France and during the mid Cho-Sun dynasty in Korea and compares the different kinds of patterns, symbolism, and the purpose of the pockets. In addition, the relationships between the pockets, belongings, and ornament are examined as well by thoroughly investigating the unique characteristics of the pocket of each country.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.55-67
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to document an unidentified velvet fabric which is located in the Museum. The investigation was conducted by analyzing color, weaving technique. pattern of the study object. To identify the origin of the object, many references about color trends, construction methods and patterns were accessed. Two comparative objects which were dating from 1600 to 1699 in the Museum of F.I.T. were selected since they are similar to the study object. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; (1) The type of this study object is 'cut and voided velvet'. It is obtained establishing the motif as areas of cut pile so as to form a pattern, while leaving other areas of the grounded weave without pile. Two flowers and two tulips with S curved stems are composed as one unit in the vertical direction. (2) The colors used in this study object. which are ivory, smoke blue, medium orange, and yellow. are part of a new trend color in the $17^{th}$ century. (3) The vertical undulating stripe patterns are also of significance in this fabric. They seemed to be contemporary with the serpentine line which was common since the $15^{th}$ century and the vertical stripes pattern which appeared from the $16^{th}$ century. (4) The stylized tulip patterns of this study object began to appear in the early $17^{th}$ century. The stems and leaves of this patterns are less sinuous than the floral motifs of the later $17^{th}$ century. Therefore, the study object is dated to early in $17^{th}$ century because of the color combination. stripes. stylized tulips, leaves. and stems are showing the characteristics of this period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.76-89
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• 2013

This study is about 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' Jeoksam and Hansam in the early days of Joseon Dynasty. A study was done regarding the records of Jeoksam and Hansam in literature, the present state of the excavated 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam, and finally a deduction of the reason for the appearance of the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam. The width of front length of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing in the early days of Joseon Dynasty is 29.5~35 cm and the width of one breath of the sleeve is 29.5~35 cm. The width of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' is 9.5~16 cm and it is relatively big. Comparing to the width of one breath of the sleeve, it is almost 1:2.2~3.6 ratio. Therefore, when the sleeve was cut, the Mu was linked in order to save fabric the gusset of sleeve had to be folded and turned, and finally it became asymmetric. As a result of the above consideration, since the width of upper garments of $16{\sim}17^{th}$ century was big, the wearing of short tops of Jeoksam or Hansam without side vent as a small 'triangle-Mu' was uncomfortable. Because of this reason, the size had no option but to become bigger. So, during the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ century, a period where mass production of fabric was difficult, the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' type was considered to be a reasonable cutting method. After the middle of $17^{th}$ century, it can be estimated that 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing disappeared according to the narrow aspect of clothing type.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.7-16
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• 2018

This study is focusing on anchogongs(按草工) in yeonggeonuigwes(營建儀軌), which were recorded with few details and in unsettled transcriptions. First, the positions and functions of anchogongs in $18^{th}$ censtury are analyzed by comparing to anchogongs in more detailed early $19^{th}$ century yeonggeonuigwes and those in extant buildings. Second, with the result, the historical significances are presumed in changing transcriptions of anchogong terms in those uigwes. In $18^{th}$ century uigwes, most of anchogongs are functioned as matbo-anchogongs and only four anchogongs in a gate building were used as jongryang-anchogongs. It is mainly because the sorts of buildings in $18^{th}$ century yeonggeonuigwes had only several varieties: most of the buildings belonging royal shrines. Transcriptions of anchogong terms had been changed for reflecting functional developments of anchogongs in $18^{th}$ century. However, reflections were much later than changes of actual functions.

• Korean Journal of Social Welfare
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• v.40
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• pp.38-67
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• 2000

The study aims to understand the traditional context of the social policies in Germany by reviewing the course of transition of the traditional, ancient and/or medieval social policies or ideas of social policy in the country as a typical example of such transitions, which started being passed over to the modern civic society at the end of the medieval age, that is, during the 15th and 16th centuries. One of the reasons why the domestic interest in the German social policy is higher than the actual research achievements and frequently discussed seems explainable because a social security or welfare policy through a social insurance was initiated in Germany for the first time over the world in the 19th century. Notwithstanding, however, that all of us know that such a policy was not made in a day, cases are sometimes visible where focuses are easily drawn only to the periodic and economical phenomena in the 19th century and the strategic option of Preussen. Moreover, no literature which integrates thoroughly or publicly the social policies in Germany has been introduced at home, and some research books or study papers, if any, are inclined to concentrate merely on the social policies after the 19th century. Indeed, there are views, not rare, that a social policy of a national dimension was initiated along with the establishment of capitalism or an industrial society. According to such views, an industrial society or capitalism was begun to shape in the 19th century, and it is accordingly so national to lay our focuses on the social policies after the century. But from the fact that a national social policy existed much farther before the capitalism was established, it can be inferred that such policies were inevitable in all societies where a social issue existed. In the case of our country which experienced a more serious separation from the tradition than other countries by her rapid industrialization and Westernization, it is true that some traditional traces remain still regardless of their actual realization.