• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.88-101
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• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.139-147
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• 2017

In this study, interesting area of development is retro-reflective thin film and then slitting to form retro-reflective material to be conbined with other fibers to form having retro-reflective characteristics, which slitting yarn can then be to provide fabrics. Glass beads are microscopic spherical size with diameters ranging from several microns to several millimeters. Applying the effects of optical property, glass beads are consumed for road safety used to make traffic signs, safety clothing and others. Glass beads retro-reflective films can be turned into slit yarns through slitting yarn process. The slit yarns can be combined into textiles using diverse methods such as weaving to provide a fabric having retro-reflective characteristics. Lightness and Luminance was increased with decreasing of interval of slit yarn in the fabric. Also, the hue is shifted greenish and bluish with interval of slit yarn.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.62-71
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• 2023

Recently, interest in natural fabric materials that are not harmful has increased, and hemp is being studied as a new eco-friendly product. This study produced hemp fabric with improved flexibility and increased antibacterial properties by blending it with Hanji yarn. Various weaving methods were proposed to overcome the rough physical properties of hemp, and the functions of the developed products were evaluated through antibacterial tests. The mixing ratios of hemp and Hanji yarns was 50% hemp: 50% Hanji weft, 70% hemp: 30% Hanji weft, 30% hemp: 70% Hanji weft, and 100% hemp. Overall, the higher the ratio of Hanji yarn, the higher the fastness property, and the higher the ratio of hemp yarn, the higher the flexibility of the fabric, which was evaluated to be comfortable to wear. The 99.9% antibacterial properties of hemp products were considered to contribute to maintaining the health of modern people. Owing to its high intensity and high air permeability, it is considered highly usable in the production of children's clothing with a lot of activity. It was evaluated as an advantage that the disadvantage of hemp, which was limited as a material for summer clothing, was broadened to use for all seasons due to the fusion of Hanji. Otherwise, low consumer satisfaction as an outdoor wear is a disadvantage because hemp products had low elasticity and wrinkles.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.795-801
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• 2016

This study was conducted to suggest the best union fabric to combine with cellulose fiber for summer and in-between seasons. Four types of union fabric, viz. silk/flax, silk/cotton, rayon/flax and rayon/cotton, were used as sample fabrics after weaving them in a local textile factory. The air permeability, moisture regain, water absorption, water vapor permeability and thermal insulation of the samples were tested. The results are as follows. The rayon/flax union fabric is the most suitable for summer clothes due to its having the best comfort property of air and water vapor permeability, and moisture and water absorption. For in-between seasons, it is recommended to use the silk/cotton union fabric because of its good thermal insulation properties.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.49-59
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• 2013

This research study investigates the cultural significance and meaning of Thai Mudmee, their historical content, and the variety of the Thai Mudmee techniques, including patterns, symbol and colours. The aim has been to develop the traditional pattern and designs of the Thai Mudmee and produce contemporary textile pieces more appropriate for modern lifestyle tastes both in Thailand and Internationally. By reviving the Thai weaving tradition it is also hoped to encourage and maintain the continuous survival of tradition Mudmee, providing new sales opportunities and markets both in Thailand and abroad. Studying various attempts to redevelop traditional crafts in different countries brought to me the idea of how to develop folk crafts, the problems that occur in this area have encouraged me to express how folk crafts could be benefit from the design process. In this thesis I also express my recommendations for other researchers and the Thai government, as well as other people who interested in Mudmee design. The thesis concludes with the possibilities of how to improve the design of the Mudmee fabric and further areas of research.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.26-35
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• 2004

This study surveys the tension differences between Korean domestic and foreign looms and analyses fabric mechanical properties due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. Paper is divided by two parts. In this 1st paper, fabric is designed as 5 harness satin weave using 75d/36f warp and 100d/192f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by $Omega^\circledR$ rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Picanol$-GTX^\circledR$ rapier loom by Picanol Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. Weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position, the relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Proceedings of the Korea Multimedia Society Conference
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• 2012.05a
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• pp.10-13
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• 2012

본 논문은 가상 직물 착용을 위한 직조 패턴 제거 필터의 성능 분석에 관한 것이다. 명도 차분 맵을 이용한 가상 직물 착용 시스템은 의류 형상 영역의 명도 차분 맵을 이용하여 조명과 음영 특성을 추출할 시, 의류 형상 영역의 색상에는 무관하지만 의류 모델의 직조 패턴에는 영향을 받는다. 본 논문에서는 바이래터럴 필터(bilateral filter)와 측지 형태학 필터(geodesic morphological filter)에 기반하여 모델 의류 영역의 직조 패턴을 제거하는 방법을 소개하고 그 성능을 분석함에 목적이 있다. 가상 직물 착용 시스템에 직조 패턴 제거 필터를 채택할 경우, 최대한 모델 영상의 직조 패턴에 무관하게 직물 원단의 디자인이 의복의 외관에 미치는 영향을 시뮬레이션할 수 있음에 따라 직물 디자이너의 창작활동을 도와줄 수 있다. 또한 온라인상에서 직물 원단이나 의류를 거래할 시에 구매자로 하여금 모델 영상의 직조패턴에 종속되지 않은 상태에서 의사결정을 할 수 있도록 지원해 B2B 또는 B2C 전자상거래 행위를 촉진할 수 있다.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.337-343
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• 2000

In this study, the five harness satins are weaved in rapier loom and air-jet loom each using the pure wool Nm 2/72, also the physical characteristics of fabrics that are produced in these weaving machinery in same condition are measured by using the KES-FB system. The results of analysis and comparison on each fabric are presented by classifying items, that is to say, the tensile, bending properties. The results we as follows ; The extensibility of grey fabric woven by rapier in the weft direction is larger than that by air-jet loom. The variation of bending property of grey fabric woven by rapier in the weft direction is more irregular than that by air-jet loom. However, these properties are similar both rapier and air jet fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.48-53
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• 2004

This study surveys the tension differences between Textec and Vamatex looms and analyses fabric mechanical properties using KES-FB system according to warp and weft tension differences. Fabric is designed as 5 harness satin weave using 150d/48f warp and 200d/384f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by $Omega^{\circledR$-Panter rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and P1001es rapier loom by Vamatex Co.Ltd., respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. Weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.117-123
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• 2008

When it comes to clothing design, after the mid 20th century some internationally renowned designers began to recognize the pivotal role clothing materials play in attracting the hearts of customers. Accordingly, they started to take advantage of new clothing materials in the sector of clothing design. While the theme of fashionable clothing products shifts from style and color to clothing materials, fashion designers place the quality of materials at the center of clothing designs. Fashion designers also realize that good quality of materials should be used to boost the value of products as well as to satisfy the conditions of creativity, practicality and aesthetics. In particular, as the non-apparel industry in which clothing materials are the most important aspect between fashionable color, silhouette and details is enhancing their attention to develop various materials in order to meet the needs of customers, the fashion industry places a high premium on textile design which is the pinnacle of expressing emotion on clothing materials. In addition, the industry raises awareness of developing more sophisticated and differentiated materials. Our thesis covers the way how to apply $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern to clothing design on the basis of research. In order to put that research into practical use, we produced textiles which effectively display $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern. Before this process, we tried to ensure that radial grating created $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern effects. To this end, the weaving process was applied, depending on whether light can penetrate textiles or not. Then, we manufactured test-products using $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern.