• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.307-315
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• 2014

The gold textile is Korean traditional weaving technique using the gold thread since 5th century. The making technique of gold thread was written in various references, but it is severed because the gold thread weaving equipment and sumptuous moods were forbidden in the early 18th century. There are some studies of traditional gold thread which are mainly about conservation treatment of cleaning and strength. To restore traditional gold thread, investigation of material and manufacturing technique is vitally required. The gold threads are composed of gold leaf, adhesive and base sheet. Gold leaf and base sheet are available for investigation because they are exposed to the surface, whereas adhesive is not easy to investigate because it is not exposed to the surface. In this study, samples are made of pure and impure gold, animal glue and lacquer, and various types of Hanji based on domestic and foreign references to compare materials for gold threads. As a result of morphological character and stability evaluation, the optimum materials for the restoration of gold threads are pure gold, animal glue and Dochimji(smoothing paper by beating). This study is expected to be basic data for manufacturing gold threads techniques and modernization of traditional gold threads hereafter research.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.55 no.4
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• pp.166-177
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• 2022

The Shiveet Khairkhan is located on Tsengel Som in the middle of Bayan-ulgi Aimag in the Altai region. Various remains have been identified, and it has been found to be an important area of the Eurasian steppe. In this study, the characteristics of textile fibers and dyes excavated from the tombs of the 1st~3rd century Xianbei period in the sites of Shiveet Khairkhan, Mongolia were investigated. As a result of analysis using optical microscopic observation and attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) for fiber identification, green and yellow fabrics were identified as silk fabrics. To investigate the properties of the dye, the surface reflectance of the dyed fabric was measured using an fiber optic reflectance spectrophotometer for non-destructive analysis. The green fabric appeared similar to the reflection spectrum of indigo dye. In addition, as a result of component analysis using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, isatin and indigotine were detected. Isatin and indigotine are characteristic components of indigo dye, and it was found that the green fabric of the tombs of the Xianbei period was dyed using indigo dye. It was difficult to identify the type of dye in the yellow fabric as a result of reflectance spectrum and gas chromatography analysis. Indigo plants are a dye used for blue dyeing from thousands of years ago, and many species are distributed around the world. It was confirmed that the fabric was relatively well preserved and indigo dye was used for the green Jikryeongui (garment with a straight collar) in the ancient tomb of the Xianbei period about 1,800 years ago, even though it was buried for a long time. Scientific investigation of textile cultural heritage is an essential process for conservation treatment, restoration, exhibition, and the creation of a conservation environment. It is expected that related research will be activated in the future and will be helpful in interpreting the living culture at the time, preserving textiles, and a conservation environment.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.23 no.7
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• pp.1269-1275
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• 2014

Ecotoxicity assessments with the physiochemical water quality items and the bioassay test using Daphnia magna were conducted for 18 selected effluents of 6 industrial types (metal processing, petroleum refining, synthetic textile manufacturing, plating, alcohol beverage manufacturing, inorganic compound manufacturing) being detected toxicity from industrial effluent in Ulsan city, and the interrelationship between total toxic unit (${\Sigma}TU$) and concentrations of Water Quality Conservation Act in Korea were investigated. The average toxic unit(TU) of effluents for 6 industrial types displayed the following ascending order: petroleum refining (0.2) < synthetic textile manufacturing (0.6) < alcohol beverage manufacturing (0.9) < metal processing (1.3) ${\leq}$ inorganic compound manufacturing (1.3) < plating (3.0). These values were less than effluent permission standard. Based on the result of substances causing ecotoxicity, the correlation analysis was not easy because most of heavy metals were not detected or were less than effluent permission standard. Toxicological assessment of industrial effluent was suitable for the evaluation of the mixture toxicity for pollutant. The whole effluent toxicity test using a variety of species was needed for the evaluation of industrial wastewater.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.381-389
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• 2012

This study presents a marketing communication strategy from the aspect of new consumption orientation. Consumer preference on ads media, on-line ads media, and WOM usage were examined for new consumption orientation groups. This study was executed in a question survey format. A total of 182 questionnaires were obtained and data were analyzed by PASW 18.0 and AMOS 7. The results were as follows. First, 8 types of consumption orientation factors were revealed; 'impulsive purchase', 'promotion oriented', 'social contribution', 'passive conformity', 'innovative', 'conspicuous', 'rational', and 'environmental conservation'. Then 4 groups were formed, 'Rational & Positive', 'Conspicuous Conforming', 'Positive Social Interested' and 'Low Price Oriented'. Second, communication responses were analyzed through consumption orientation groups. The 'Rational & Positive' group responded positively to every type of advertising media (especially new media). The 'Conspicuous Conforming' and 'Positive Social Interested' groups preferred traditional media such as TV, radio, and magazines; in addition, the 'Low Price Oriented' group liked only online banner ads. For WOM preference, the 'Rational & Positive' and 'Positive Social Interested' group preferred verbal consumer information like WOM. In distribution types, the just 'Positive Social Interested' group revealed a significant result for internet shopping malls. The results from this study will help establish marketing communication strategies based on the features of consumption orientation.

• 한국문화재보존과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.109-114
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• 2004

The purpose of this study lies in analyzing the characteristics of the carbonized textile fabrics and to know the carbonizing mechanism. Samples were Jiyo excavated from the grave of Mrs. Hansan Lee as the wife of Jinju Kang at Daeduk-gu, Daejon, and black fragements assumed as of the outside material of cotton skirt and black dusts collected out of Jikryung for official dress. The composition and status of the fiber were clarified by means of Microscopic FT-IR and both cross sectioanl and side parts of the fiber were observed using the technique of scanning electron microscopy(SEM). Finally EDS analysis was carried out to qualitatively analyze inorganic ingredients contained in the carbonized fiber. As a result of FT-IR measurement, characteristic peak was very strong around $1625cm^{-1}$ and could be found even between 2500 and $2300cm^{-1}$ because of a high-molecule pigmental substance, melanine. When SEM photography was applied to the fractions, the tissues were identified as silk fiborine through the observation of their side and cross sectional parts. SEM-EDS measurement indicated that both the cotton skirt and Jikryung for official dress contained a high proportion of inorganic substances such as Si, Ca suggesting the existence of silicide and calcium carbonate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.338-347
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• 2006

Due to the complex environment in the ground, most of excavated costumes undergo deterioration and color change. To reduce the extent and intensity of the staining and to recover the original color or gray fabrics of excavated costumes, bleaching would be required. Excavated historical costumes are very delicate in nature, therefore, special care is needed in bleaching process. Several bleaching agents were selected and applied to the control cotton fabric and pre-deteriorated cotton fabrics to examine the change of color and physical properties after bleaching. A dual bleaching using hydrogen peroxide and sodiumborohydride showed the superior bleaching effect to the other bleaching agents. The strength of pre-deteriorated fabrics slightly increased after dual bleaching. The six historical costumes which belonged to General Duk-Ryung Kim's nephew's wife were dual bleached. They became remarkably cleaned and brightened. The treatments improved the appearance of costumes. By microscopic investigation, it is found that costumes did not show the damage after treatment. In conclusion, it is possible to bleach historical textiles without damage using appropriate bleaching agents like hydrogen peroxide and sodiumborohydride.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.46-59
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• 2015

This study was conducted focusing on the stability on materials of cultural property when the fumigant containing ethylene oxide was applied among some kinds of fumigant. Four kinds of specimens from paper, textile, metal and pigment were prepared to compare color difference, weight, surface condition before and after treatment and FT-IR analysis was carried out on specimens of paper and textile. In the case of fumigation treatment, it was conducted by two groups : one is made up of specimens with the non-fumigation as control groups, the other is made up of specimens treated with ethylene oxide + $HFC_{134a}$ and ethylene oxide + $CO_2$ as experimental groups. The result of color difference showed that there were color differences on the specimens of Hanji(Korean traditional paper), silver, cotton, ramie and yellow pigment. Especially, it was found out there was color change more than 6.0 on average from the silver specimen. However, in the silver specimen's case, color change in the non-fumigated specimen was relatively higher than those of fumigant-treated specimens, therefore, it is judged that fumigant doesn't have a decisive effect on color change in specimens, but required caution while fumigating. The result of weight measurement, there were totally 0~2% weight changes and the slightest change was found in the metal specimen, the biggest change in the papers. The result of microscopic observation on the surface of specimens showed color changes and especially, the biggest change on the silver specimen was observed. But no change in components was identified from FT-IR analysis of papers and textiles.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.34
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• pp.20-29
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• 2013

Paper, textile and wood materials are mainly consisted of cellulose. Cellulose is high molecule and make up the strong crystalline structure by hydrogen bonds. In particular, the polymerization degree of cellulose are closely related to the strength of fiber, and the permanence. the useful life of fiber, also depends on the degradation of this substance. The viscosity of cellulose is considered to be an important indicator of fiber damage in high molecule polymers. The viscosity measurements with CED solution is used to measure the molecular weight and the degree of polymerization of cellulose. Cellulose viscosity of wood fibers is measured with TAPPI standard method T230. However, TAPPI standard method T230 is difficult to completely dissolving the cellulose of high molecular weight and large degree of polymerization, such as Korea traditional papers and fabrics made with mulberry, ramie, cotton fibers. In this study, The high viscosity of hanji and fabric was measured with TAPPI standard method T254. T254 method is that the cellulose specimen with the proper amount of weaker (0.167M CED) solution, and completely dissolved with the stronger (1.0M CED) solution. It was found that cellulose with high degree of polymerization was dissolved more easily in general CED method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.409-422
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• 2021

A doctor's coat worn by Seo Jae-pil (1864-1951)-National Registered Cultural Heritage No. 607-was conserved with wet cleaning to remove thick wrinkles and brown stains that had been present for a long time. This paper also applied microscopic observation and infrared spectrophotometric analysis to obtain scientific investigation data on the cotton fabric of this doctor's coat. Information about Seo Jae-pil's time as a doctor, the process of changing his English name, and C.D.Williams & Co., which produced the medical coat, revealed that this doctor's coat was worn by Seo Jae-pil between 1892 and 1898 or 1926 and 1939. Additionally, this paper proposes a pad for filling relics that can protect the shape of modern and contemporary clothing, such as Seo Jae-pil's doctor's coat, for display at a museum site. Specifically, this research provides detailed information on the manufacturing of filling pads that can prevent damage to modern and contemporary jackets and coats so that they can be used in the cultural heritage field by developing filling materials for three-dimensional costume artifacts.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.122-147
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• 2012

The Four-guardian statues in Song-gwang buddhist temple, Suncheon, Korea, have been remade in AD 1628 and have been repaired and repainted over several times since then. Therefore, the study of the pigments applied on the statues can provide good chance for investigation about pigments used in the late Chosun Period. Pigments on fragments from Gwang-mok(Virupaksha), one of the Four-guardian statues, have been analyzed by optical microscope, SEM-EDX and XRD in order to identify the components and compounds. Six types of materials were found from the fragments, which are soil layer with brown clay band, soil layer containing a lot of fibers, Korean paper with loose texture, Korean paper with dense texture, silk, and hemp textile. Presumably, the soil layer which have brown clay band is basis layer and the other layers are repaired layers. From comparative study for the components of the pigments, applied on upper and lower parts of the repaired layers, we have concluded that those repaired layers had been applied on the statue by the following order; basis layer ${\rightarrow}$ Korean paper with loose texture ${\rightarrow}$ soil containing a lot of fibers ${\rightarrow}$ silk ${\rightarrow}$ hemp textile and Korean paper with dense texture. In addition, the years that those materials were applied on the statue have been estimated as 1720~1891, 1926, 1946 and 1976, respectively. The distinct features of each age are as the following; lead white and copper chloride hydroxide are major white and green pigments before 1891, zinc white, barium white, emerald green, and ultramarine blue appear after 1926 and titanium white uprises around 1976. Our result presented here, study on pigments applied on traditional statues over several different periods, will provide good database for future study on pigments used for traditional painting in Buddist temples and Dancheong.