• Title/Summary/Keyword: textile conservation

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Damage Characteristics of Korean Traditional Textiles by Nitrogen Dioxide (NO2) Concentrations (이산화질소(NO2) 농도에 따른 전통직물의 손상 특성)

  • Kim, Myoung Nam;Lim, Bo A;Kim, Seojin;Lee, Sun Myung
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.29 no.3
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    • pp.197-207
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    • 2013
  • The gas acceleration test was conducted to identify the deterioration of Korean traditional textiles caused by $NO_2$. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyeing with 5 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to 0.01, 0.1, 1, 10, 100, and 1000 ppm $NO_2$ gas in the test chamber at $20^{\circ}C$, 50% RH for 1 day. Optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out after the exposure. In the case of Korean traditional textile, color difference increased at 1 ppm/day, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration, carbonyl and C-$NO_2$ functional group increased while pH decreased at 10 ppm/day and tensile strength weakened at 100 ppm/day. when it comes to undyed textile, alteration of color difference on silk and hemp cloth, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration and tensile strength on hemp cloth was remarkable. In addition, color difference on blue and yellow textile, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration increase of yellow textile and tensile strength decrease of hemp cloth & ramie cloth were significant. The results suggest that critical $NO_2$ concentration of optical, chemical, and physical damage on Korean traditional textiles are 1ppm/day, 10 ppm/day, 100 ppm/day respectively.

Red Pigment used on the Piece of Textile Excavated from Tomb No. 11 of Kyodong in Changnyong (창녕(昌寧) 교동(校洞) 제 11호분 발견(發見) 직물편(織物片)의 적색안료(赤色顔料))

  • Jang, Eun-hye;Ahn, Byong-chan
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.1
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    • pp.87-91
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    • 1999
  • During the process of conservation treatment for the shoes[object No. Bon 7038], a red piece of textile was discovered. It was confirmed that hematite(Fe2O3) was used as pigment, through the following scientific examinations as color measurements, solubility in a particular solvent, discoloration, thin-section investigation of cross section under the microscope, composition analysis by SEM-EDS and etc. This is the first red pigment of Kaya period discovered so far, and it is significant because it exists on textile. Besides, red pigment discovered on the shield trace excavated from Tomb No. 11 of Daesung-dong in Kimhae was confirmed as Mercury sulfide(HgS). These two facts testify that similar red pigments had been used both in Kaya and Three Kingdoms around the same period.

Nondestructive Analysis of Textile Dyed with Traditional Blue and Green (전통 청색 및 녹색 염료로 염색한 직물의 비파괴 분석)

  • Yun, Eunyoung;Kwon, Hyeyoung
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.14
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    • pp.81-89
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    • 2013
  • This study concerns UV-Vis spectrophotometry and 3D-fluorescence spectrophotometry analysis of textile parts of blue and green tones dyed with indigo of blue tone and turmeric, gardenia, goldthread and amur cork tree of yellow tone. In order to verify whether the kinds of textiles affected analysis result of each dye, silk and cotton textile samples were produced. According to the analysis of the degree of reflection of UV-Vis spectrophotometry, unique reflection spectrum of indigo appeared regardless of the kinds of textiles when they were dyed with indigo. As for textiles of green tone, the 3D-fluorescence spectroscopic analysis result showed that unique spectrums of yellow dyes, turmeric, goldthread and amur cork tree appeared regardless of the kinds of textiles but the fluorescence spectrums of gardenia and indigo did not appear.

A Study on the Characteristics of Natural Preservative Agent-treated Fabrics for Textile Cultural Properties Preservation (섬유문화재 보존에 활용하기 위한 천연보존제로 처리한 직물의 특성연구)

  • Baek, Young-Mee
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.25 no.2
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    • pp.197-206
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    • 2009
  • Natural preservative agents are generally made of antibiotic substances that are extracted from plants. They are used mainly to keep in an original good state food, natural cosmetic goods and medicines which are likely to get rotten. The purpose of this study is to investigate whether natural preservative agents can be applied to fabrics for the preservation of textile cultural properties. For the purpose, this researcher experimented with a certain natural preservative agent which was developed to preserve natural cosmetic goods. The study found that when treated with the foresaid natural preservative agent whose ratio to water was 1%, fabrics showed little changes in color and tensile strength, almost neutral pH, high antibiosis and anti-fungus and high resistance to Bacillus cereus that is much detrimental to silk fabrics. As a part of the study, a preliminary test on the possibility of using natural preservative agents to preserve textile cultural properties, found that when kept covered up with the 1% natural preservative agent-treated fabrics for 72 hours, excavated textile relics showed a dramatic decrease in microbial growth.

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Material Stability Assessment of Low Oxygen and Heating Treatment (저산소 및 열처리법에 대한 문화재 재질 안정성 평가)

  • Jang, Han Gyeol;Baek, Na Yeon;Kang, Dai Ill
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.30 no.2
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    • pp.149-156
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    • 2014
  • Low oxygen treatment and heating treatment are used to prevent insects in the field of food science. These eco-friendly control methods can be applied to biological control technique in conservation treatment of organic cultural properties. To evaluate material stability, low-oxygen treatment and low oxygen treatment are applied to wood, pigment, paper and textile that are related to historical wooden buildings. As a result, wood moisture content declined after low oxygen treatment. But decline rate is a little, so it can be expected to turn back original state as time passes. And test result on pigment, paper, textile of chrominance and strength of test materials are stable. But after heating treatment, pigments are separated.

A Scientific Analysis of Archaeological Textiles and Wooden comb Excavated from Hapgang-ri, Dong-myun, Yungi-gun, Chungcheongnam-do (충남 연기군 동면 합강리 유적 출토 직물류 및 목제 빗의 과학적 분석)

  • Cho, Namchul;Kim, Woohyun;Kim, Soochul
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.30 no.4
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    • pp.329-334
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    • 2014
  • A scientific analysis of ancient textiles provides significant data to understand weaving techniques and culture of textiles in each region and charateristics of materials used at that time. In addition, species identification of waterlogged wooden objects is a scientific analysis method that allow us to verify information of relation of foreign species trade and exchange, of preferable species through kinds of wooden products, and of forest environment as well as method setting of conservation. As a result of a species analysis about historical textiles and a wooden comb in a bronze bowl that were excavated from Hapgang-ri, Dong-Myun, Yungi-gun, Chungcheongnam-do, Textile1 and Textile3 are identified as Urticacese Boehmeri nivea ; ramie, Textie2 is identified as Malvaceae Gossypium herbaceum, and a wooden comb is identified as Betulaceae Betula spp. It is expected that this result will help to make further comparative studies, identifying species of textiles and trees of ancient times.

The Age Estimation and Conservation Treatment of Suit Worn by Yu Rim (1898-1961), National Registered Cultural Heritage Item No. 609 (국가등록문화재 제609호 유림(柳林) 양복 보존처리와 제작시기 고찰)

  • Lee, Ryangmi;An, Boyeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.45 no.4
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    • pp.573-585
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    • 2021
  • This paper describes the processes conducted in the analysis and conservation of suit worn by Yu Rim (1898-1961). The suit consists of a jacket and pants and is a typical Mao-style suit for independence activists; it is notable in that it was made of domestic wool. Inside the jacket, there is a machine embroidery of the name "Danju," a label of synthetic resin which reads "Daegu citizen's tailor's shop," and buttons engraved with "PUSAN SIN-HUNG." According to our textile analysis, the outer layer is composed of worsted wool while the lining is made from acetate. Damage to the garment from malodor and insects has been repaired, and the suit has been restored to its original shape by a conservation treatment that has reinforced the textiles. This conservation case can provide valuable research data on the preservation of modern and contemporary clothing. In addition, this study also attempts to estimate the date of suit worn by Yu Rim's production by comparing it with woolen suits produced around the same time and examining the clues associated with the relics. This is significant since it enhances the value of the cultural assets and provides detailed information on the historical transformation of domestic suits.

Damage Characteristics of Korean Traditional Textiles by Acetaldehyde (아세트알데하이드에 의한 전통직물의 손상 특성)

  • Kim, Myoung Nam;Lim, Bo A;Lee, Sun Myung
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.32 no.3
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    • pp.321-331
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    • 2016
  • Textiles damage caused by acetaldehyde($CH_3CHO$) is not clear as compared to other materials. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyed with 4 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to $CH_3CHO$ gas in the test chamber. First, textile specimens' damage by differert concentration of acetaldehyde(0.1, 0.5, 1, 10, 100, 500, 1000 ppm) was tested. Second, accelerared damage to the textile specimens were tested according to the temperature and humidity conditions at the damage levels. Third, damage of deliberately degraded textile specimens were examined at the damage levels. After the exposure, optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out. As a result, at 1000 ppm/day, the color difference of cotton_yellow has increased. At the condition of $25^{\circ}C-80%$, $30^{\circ}C-50%$, $30^{\circ}C-80%$, the color difference of yellow specimens has increased and grey scale rating has decreased. At $30^{\circ}C-80%$, acetate of cotton_undyed increased and the pH of silk_undyed decreased. In the case of deliberately degraded textile specimens, actetate concentration of black specimens increased. In conclusion, damage to the traditional fabric by acetaldehyde is not impact. However, it is expected that yellow specimens will be bleach and black specimens' actetate concentration will be increase.

East Meets West : The Introduction of Cotton Fibres in Ancient Greece

  • Margariti, Christina
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.23-25
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    • 2010
  • Archaeological evidence shows that cotton fibres of the genus Gossypium were first used for textile production at Mehrgarh, Pakistan in the Neolithic period ($6^{th}$ millenium BC). Eventually the cotton plant and textiles found their way to Egypt and through there, to Greece. However, the chronological origins of the cultivation and/or use of cotton fibres in textile production in ancient Greece are ambiguous. The main sources of information are ancient written texts and excavated textile finds. Both indicate that the introduction of cotton in Greece can be placed in the mid-first millenium BC. However, it is not clear whether the cultivation of the plant and consequently the production of cotton textiles was established in that period or whether another cotton species was produced and used locally in Greece or whether isolated examples of cotton textiles had been imported in Greece before the cotton plant. A more comprehensive analytical study of surviving textile finds coupled with archaeological research for plant production and cultivation would provide the answer to these questions.

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