• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.85-102
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• 2015

This study aimed to develop dress torso patterns with both aesthetic and functional qualities that fit for women in their 20s. In order to develop dress torso patterns, wearing tests were done. By collecting drafting methods of the patterns through literature study and the survey of wedding dress manufacturers, four kinds of dress torso patterns were selected. The existing dress torso patterns have no or very small ease in chest, waist, and hip circumferences. As a result of wearing tests of these four existing dress torso patterns, drafting methods of dress torso patterns that have the best satisfied values close to optimum zero were selected; the first and second research dress torso patterns were developed by modifying and supplementing items that had noticeable difference through the Wilcoxon rank sum test with a selected measured value and a best satisfied value of zero; and deduced a drafting method for the final developed dress torso patterns by a wearing test of the second developed dress torso patterns. Distinctive aspects of drafting methods of the final developed dress torso patterns were that ease for each area was given differently by considering a functional quality and a chest circumference instead of a bust circumference was applied to reduce influence by the size of breast in neck and armhole areas, and a back bust level. Back neck breadth was made wider and front neck breadth was made less narrow due to a recent change of age 20s female adults' shoulder and back shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.3 s.62
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• pp.387-403
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop a new torso pattern for the schoolgirl of a tween generation who had different somatotype from children and teenagers. The subjects in this study were female elementary school students of fifth or sixth grade. Through a sensory evaluation of four existing torso patterns, the first research torso pattern was developed. Drafting methods of each item, which closed to the optimum value three, were selected. The differences between the values of the selected drafting methods and the optimum three were verified through a Wilcoxon's ranked sum test. The final research torso pattern was developed through adjusting the drafting methods according to the deviation from the optimum value three. The schoolgirl of a tween generation is at the time to show the remarkable breast development compared with a waist circumference, so the bust drafting was defined as B/4+ 1.25cm separately front and back. The drafting of a waist circumference was defined as W/4+1cm separately front and back which taken the ease amounts of the somatotype into consideration of the schoolgirl of a tween generation. A princess line was used instead of a waist dart because their hip circumference was more developed than a waist circumference. The crossed amount of a front hemline was 0.3cm and that of a back hemline was 0.7cm. and the princess line of the position was drawn with a straight line at a right angle of the back waistline. The armhole depth was determined B/4-1cm in consideration of the aesthetic and the trend, although the effective movement of upper arm was required.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.12
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• pp.177-188
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness according to drafting method of the block patterns for women in Korea. The major findings of this study are as follows: 1. According to each sensory test of the frontal view, back view, side view and silhouette Block Pattern I is the best of them in summation of the sensory tests score. Block, Pattern D and I have good shape too. However the best block Pattern D shows good score in evaluation of overall fitness and silhouette. 2. Most of block patterns, which show high scores in sensory tests, are the Compromise Method taking merits of the Proportional Method and Short Measure Method among the Pattern Drafting Methods. Box-shape patterns show low score in the sensory tests. 3. Regarding to the number of measurement, the patterns of the Compromise Method using 6-8 measurements seem to be optimal. In degree of fitness, loose fit type basic patterns are better than other patterns from a viewpoint of the total satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.459-469
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between body-types and skirt-patterns by analyzing various fitting conditions of the skirt patterns in relation to the body-types. To achieve this, fitting tests were done on six types of skirt-patterns. The tests included four body-types selected according to the existing classification of the types of under part of the body. Sensory tests were performed on the existing patterns and new drafting method based on the results of the fitting tests. The results of the fitting tests and sensory test are as follows. 1. The existing skirt-patterns were relatively well-fitted except for certain parts in standard somatotype (body-type A). 2. The new drafting method, designed on the basis of the fitting test on the existing patterns, scored high on all of the eighteen items included in the test This signifies the excellence of the new drafting method. 3. In the case of the allocation between the front and the back, which is the difference between the educational patterns and industrial patterns, the best silhouette was achieved when the hip-line and the waist-line were same sized both in the back and in the front. However, in the case of body-type D it was better when there was a 1cm difference between the back and the front. 4. The number of darts that best fits young persons were found to be eight, to keep their side hip-curve smooth. Further, it is desirable to set the center line of the dart as the vertical waist-line. 5. The best length of the darts were determined to be 12.5cm, 11ch in the back, and 11cm, 9.5cm in the front. Adjustments would be made according to the differing body-types in the range of 0.5cm. 6. The lowerness of the back waist-line for the normal was determined at 1.5cm, with some variations in other body-types. 7. The front waist-line was needed to be 1cm lowered in the case of body-type B, whereas, in the case of body-type D, it was needed to be 1cm raised.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.674-696
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• 2011

Recent change in consumption patterns, casual clothing market share is growing. Awareness about the quality of the product for a variety of consumer needs are becoming. Accordingly, stretch material items that satisfy modern production and consumption is increasing. Among them, circular knit and woven fabrics with different characteristics have. However, this requires a consideration of the pattern graphics, this study is not getting enough. The purpose of this study is to develop a T-shirt using circular knit pattern for women in early twenties. Through the research of literature and a survey on T-shirt patterns of ready-to-wear manufactures and training for the pattern 4 T-shirt patterns were selected. Eight women in early twenties who fit the bodily standard were selected for the test. Subjects who were tested by wearing a T-shirt made of 30's cotton circular knit. Drafting method of T-shirt pattern which were closed to the optimum value three, derived from the five point rating scale outfit test were selected and the differences between the values of the selected drafting methods and the optimum three were verified. Passed by the test of 2 times and the final research T-shirt pattern was developed through adjusting from the optimum value three. The form which is whole is a silhouette closely in the body and drafting method the elasticity and drapery considered the quality of the circular knit where the characteristic is excellent.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.1 s.26
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• pp.93-114
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• 1988

The purpose of this study was to develop pattern drafting methods of bodice, sleeve and skirt for Korean women at the age of 18 to 34. The study procedures and results were as follows; 1. 305 women aged 18 to 34 were measured on 49 items. 56 items including 49 measured and 7 calculated items were analyzed statistically. 2. New pattern drafting methods were developed based on the results of the data analysis. Basic shells constructed from the patterns were examined through fitting tests for completion. 3. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new pattern for women by comparing it with one of the most used conventional patterns. An original rating scale was developed and used for the evaluation. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 53 items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant difference ($\alpha{\leqq}0.01$ or $\alpha{\leqq}0.05$) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted at all 53 items, and to be comfortable.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.22-32
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to know the pattern of Hanbok Jegory with measuring Jegory and studying manufacturing method of the Jegory used currently. It is a purpose to find constitutional problem caused by the character of the bending somatotype and, to study the standard model of the Jegory for bending somatotyped women in old age, by comparison of this fitness for bending-somatotyped women in old age. The results obtained are as follows; 1. The kinds of measurements considered in manufacturing process are Hwajang Length, Bust girth, and the skirt length. The length of Jegory and width of Neck are also considered. 2. Manufacturers consider somatotype the most important thing when they make Jegory for women in old age. Front length, Back length and Width of the Jegory are considered secondly important. 3. The results of the comparison show that the Standard Hanbok drafting method is not suitable for drafting Jegory for bending somatotyped women in old age. 4. The suitability test for the model designed by the above methods shows that it fits in bending somatotyped women in old age better than standard drafting method. The results show the superiority of the above methods especially in the breast width, the Godae length, and the adaptedness to the body.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.27-36
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• 1987

The purpose of this study was to develop a slacks pattern drafting method for the fatty women of 40∼55 aged Korean women who are more than 1.5 Rohrer's index on the basis of their physical characteristics. The study was composed as follows; 1. Body measurement and statistical analysis: One hundred and thirty women between the ages of 40∼55 over 1.5 Rohrer's index were measured on 21 items. Mean, standard deviation, variance, maximum, minimum, range were computed. 2. 4 types of conventional slacks pattern were collected. The most accepted conventional slacks pattern was decided through wearing test. The new pattern was based onthe most accepted conventional pattern, and developed through wearing tests. 3. Evaluation of the new pattern drafting method: The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new pattern by comparing is with the most accepted conventional pattern. According to the statistical analysis of the result of the 12 items, all the items showed significant differences (α 0.01) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.565-576
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• 1993

The Purpose of this study was to develop pattern drafting methods of the hip block and sleeve for female college students of 18 to 26 year-old. The study procedures and results were as follows ; 1. 313 female college students were measured, 17items were analyzed statisitcally. 2. New hip block and sleeve sloper were developed based on the result of the data analysis and fitting tests. 3. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new hip block and sleeve sloper for female college student by comparing it with Japanese Bunka method sloper. According to statistical analysis of the result of 40items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant difference($$a{\leq_-}0.01$$) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted at all 40items, and to be comfortable.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.116-136
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to select patterns for slim fit pants, for the following main research, to develop new pants patterns that are suitable and preferable for men in their 20s. We compared and analyzed the patterns of which are currently in the market. We compared 10 different slim pants pattern drafting and analyzed their differences. Then, we examined their appearances and functionalities thru a male model test fitting 10 different samples of the pants. The conclusions of the research results were as follows. We listed the patterns in the following order based on the numbers of items each pattern has, which are statistically considerable for the evaluation to the optimum satisfactory level among the total of 35 testing categories: J > B=I > F=H > A > C=G > D > E. In the functionality test of the pants, we found that it was too tight around the waist and abdomen area with Pattern D, where-as it was too loose around the waist with Pattern C:,-, yet, both of the patterns indicated that it is a good fit in over-all. Therefore, we chose Pattern E, D, C, and G as the existing pants patterns that could be used for further research and for educational purposes to develop a slim pants pattern for men in their 20s.