• 펄프종이기술
• /
• 제29권3호
• /
• pp.7-16
• /
• 1997

The constituents of deposits on paper machine and holes/spots in paper have been studied by consequently a combination of analytical techniques, such as FTIR, Py-GC-MS, and. EDS. FTIR spectroscopy was used prior to Py-GC-MS and EDS analysis, as preliminary analysis technique. The analysis of organic components were carried out with the use of a pyrolysis unit connected to a GC-MS, and inorganic components in ash were analysed by SEM equipped with an EDS analyzer after pyrolysis at 59$0^{\circ}C$. The deposits on the dryer section were complex pitch, which was the mixture of the organic contents of fatty acid ester and starch, and the inorganic contents of talc, clay, and calcium carbonate. The complex pitch was estimated to come from the coated broke. We knew the deposits on the metering rod of sym-sizer were associated with the interaction of unstable AKD and CaCO$_3$. The compositions of holes or spots varied considerably and were associated with chemical interaction within the system. The holes, spots, and blotches in the finished paper were PE and PP that were streamed out from pulp sources, complex pitch that were caused by the interaction of the different additives in the system, polymer such as flexible PVC that used for the prop of palette, and hot melt as adhesives that came from the inadequate handling of broke. In addition, we identified that poly(caprolactam) which is used for forming fabrics or press felts, could be mixed with the raw materials by accident and results in streak on coating.

• 펄프종이기술
• /
• 제45권6호
• /
• pp.17-23
• /
• 2013

The reduction of metal ion from the cotton linter for the preparation of NMMO (N-methylmorpholine N-oxide)-based dissolving pulp was investigated. The NMMO-based dissolving pulp was usually used for the manufacture of high quality fabrics, and need to have high alpha cellulose content and high brightness. NMMO, which is environmentally friendly, and reusable after recovering process, is very sensitive to the metal ions such as Cu, Fe, Mg, and Cr. Electron beam, sulfuric acid, acetic acid, and ozone treatment before bleaching were used and the concentration changes of the metal ions were compared to that of EDTA, a chelating agent. It was found that both acid treatments (sulfuric and acetic acid) were very effective and comparable to EDTA treatment at the same dosage in metal ion reduction, but electron beam and ozone treatment were not. The sulfuric acid treatment turned out to be effective in metal ion reduction, and most inexpensive.

• 복식
• /
• 제66권6호
• /
• pp.110-121
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study is to develop high value-added uniform design in response to climate change, and produce high sensitivity uniforms that conserve the energy of its wearers. The scope of the study encompassed entire production stage from the product planning stage to developing a prototype to collecting consumer ratings to securing intellectual property. The results of the study are as follows. First, the material was developed that maximizes insulation by replicating human body heat radiation and raising the temperature by 5 degree Celsius. Second, through Time to Market system, a luxurious synthetic wool material was developed, and warm effect was achieved. Third, pattern design engineering for easy movement and design development allowed the realization of uniform design that is compatible indoors and outdoors as well as respond to highly active climate change. Fourth, Fifth, the developed design was registered and intellectual property rights were obtained.

• 복식
• /
• 제55권8호
• /
• pp.127-143
• /
• 2005

This study provides a classifying framework in the modern knit wears, helps to have better understandings of the comparative differences between hand-knit skill and machine-knit skill in terms of the intrinsically characteristic values, and grasps the tendency in their applied techniques based on the characteristics. The comparative characteristics in modern knit wears are produced according to the used skills. The work completeness with which the clothing can be sublimated into the level of artistic phase is given in craftmanship-knit techniques. This makes it possible to design a rare one, and therefore provides a wider range of availability in clothing. The technical traits in craftman-ship-knit are identified as disassembly, specialty, decorativeness and rarity, and the different skills are employed by the characteristics. On the other hand, the differences are not used in ma-chine-knit wears in the way the craftmanship-knit type utilizes by the trait and, instead, the ma-chine-woven fabrics with a machine tool are taken on the whole. In the flow of fashion modes, the characteristics of machine-knitted wears are found remarkably in the modernized contemporary designs seeking for activity and functionality with the use of materials, colors and details minimized. And those trails are characterized as formality, simplicity, functionality and popularity. The comparison in knitting techniques is made in such a way of disassembly and formality; specialty and simplicity; decorativeness and functionality; and rarity and popularity.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제21권4호
• /
• pp.521-534
• /
• 2013

This study aims to identify the formative features of inflatable fashion that has changed its form or fulfilled specific functions by inserting air between fabrics or between clothes and the human body. Images of inflatable fashion images after the 1990s were collected from the literature and internet data and were analyzed based on the formative features of inflatable design. Through this analysis, it was determined that there were four formative features of inflatable fashion: First, inflatable fashion has functionality. General fashion also has functionality, but inflatable fashion has expanded functionalities such as an air bag effect or insulation due to injected air. Second, the formative potential. Inflatable fashion can be changed into different forms depending on the amount of air injected. Light-weighted air holds up the material of the clothes. So new forms that are different from conventional fashion, which gives inflatable fashion its formative potential, can be suggested. Third, aesthetic expansion. Inflatable fashion when its volume is expanded expresses the beauty of scale, or expresses a voluptuous beauty when part of human body is exaggerated. Fourth, it has an unconstructive characteristic. Space that is visible due to the transparent material of inflatable fashion expresses the intention of the designer to fulfill an unconstructive concept. In conclusion, the formative features of inflatable design have formative significances : practicality, aesthetic significance, semantics and technical significance.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제15권3호
• /
• pp.336-346
• /
• 2013

This study focuses on 'texture' as one of the most important fashion and textile design elements; in addition, it proposes various applications of it. Surface texture is indispensable in fashion and textile design that also factors heavily into innovative creations. Along with technological advances in the fashion industry, surface texture has derived many new and attractive features that provide more opportunities for designers to show various design concepts. Rather than the surface quality of fabrics, surface texture in fashion design creates its identity through a manipulation of materials- an application that tends to be primarily for visual effects without being restricted to decorative purposes. The status and significance of surface texture in various creative fields is explored and the evolution of surface texture is traced by analyzing a number of fashion design cases with representative surface textures. The latest feature of surface texture in fashion and textile design is identified to establish a new classification of surface texture with five groups and technical suggestions. This study provides a theoretical basis for this field of study and a new framework that can be employed in the development of surface textures that use innovative techniques as well as the future application of newly-developed textures.

• Advances in aircraft and spacecraft science
• /
• 제6권2호
• /
• pp.157-168
• /
• 2019

The production of nonwoven fabrics from natural fibers is already expanding at an industrial level for simple curvature semi-structural part in the automotive industry. To develop their use for technical applications, this paper provides an experimental study of the mechanical behavior of flax-fiber nonwoven preforms. A comparison between different sets of carded needle-punched nonwoven has been used to study the influence of manufacturing parameters such as fibers' directions, the area and the needle punching densities. We have found that the anisotropy observed between both directions can be reduced depending on these parameters. Furthermore, this work investigates the possibility to form double curvature parts such as a hemisphere as well as a more complex shape such as a square box which possesses four triple curvature points. We propose a forming process adapted to the features of the nonwoven structure. The purpose is to determine their behavior under high stress during various forming settings. The preforming tests allowed us to observe in real time the manufacturing defects as well as the high deformability potential of flax nonwoven.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제23권2호
• /
• pp.294-309
• /
• 2015

This study aims to clarify the aesthetic values between emotion of human and expression of technology in contemporary fashion as it analyzes formative characteristics of related cases in fashion based on principles of 3D Printing technology and the viewpoint of mechanic aesthetics. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, 3D Printing fashion is not only expressed diverse variations by its principles of formative methods, materials and properties, but also changes of silhouette by applying system of designers. Second, general characteristics of 3D Printing fashion is represented by various applications in SLS system, and it can be specifically explained application to a portion of clothing, decorative roles of clothing, complicated pattern making through crossing fabrics using 3D scanner and displaying a certain object changing fashion styles, and so forth. Third, the formative characteristics of 3D Printing fashion from the perspective of mechanic aesthetics is as follows. It can be analyzed as the integration of metaphysical values through compared symbolization of natural feature and technical evolution, partial dynamics and interactive velocity-based, formative combinations for abstract expression using architectural components, cosmos images and substantialized structures through images of organic space interacted human shapes. As the mention above, 3D Printing technology can creative a diverse area of fashion, and express images of new technological fashion through various works with continuous development of techniques.

• 공업화학
• /
• 제9권1호
• /
• pp.135-140
• /
• 1998

제지공정 트러블을 일으키는 침착물과 제품의 품질을 저하시키는 종이내 불순물들의 성분을 기기분석하였다. 우선적으로 퓨리에변환 적외선분광기(FT-IR spectrometer)를 이용하여 이물질의 원형 그대로를 측정하여 예비정보를 얻은 뒤 열분해-가스크로마토그래피-질량분석기(Py-Gc/MS)를 이용해서 불순물들의 유기성분을 분석하였으며, $590^{\circ}C$에서 열분해시키고 난 ash는 에너지분산분광법(EDS)을 이용하여 무기성분을 분석하였다. 초지기 건조부에 침착된 성분은 지방산 에스테르 및 전분 등의 유기 이물질과 탈크, 크레이, 탄산칼슘 등의 무기 이물질로 이루어진 복합적인 피치형태로써 재사용 도공파지 성분에 의한 것이며, 심사이저 메터링로드에 끼인 침착물은 불안정한 alkyl keten dimer(AKD) 성분이 탄산칼슘과 상호작용하여 침착을 일으킨 것으로 분석되었다. 종이내 구멍 성분은 주원료로 사용되는 펄프에서 혼입된 것으로 판단되는 PE및 PP 성분과 초지공정에 사용된 주 부원료들간의 불안정한 상호작용에 의해 응집된 복합적인 피치성분으로 확인되었다. 작업상의 부주의로 완정공정에서 사용되는 hot melt 및 파렛트 받침대로 사용되는 가소제를 첨가하여 유연하게 만든 PVC 성분이 재사용 파지와 함께 혼입되어 종이내 얼룩 및 반점 등을 발생시키기도 하며, 초지기 용구로 사용되는 고분자 물질(와이어 또는 펠트)의 일부가 사고 등에 의해 공정중에 혼입되어 도공시 스트리크를 발생시킬 수도 있음을 알 수 있었다.

• 복식
• /
• 제62권3호
• /
• pp.137-151
• /
• 2012

In 1966, $Seokgatap$ pagoda in $Bulguksa$ temple was damaged by the tomb robbers and was dismantled to fix the damage. In the process, many offerings to Buddha and containers for Sarira(the cremated remains) were found in $Sarigong$(specially designated space for the Sarira casket) inside the second floor of the pagoda. Many fabrics like $Geum$, $Neung$(twill), $Rha$(complex gauze), silk tabby and linen were also excavated. In this study, $Geum$ fabric from the $Seokgatap$ was closely examined. $Geum$ of $seokgatap$ is weft-faced compound weave according to the analysis of its weaving pattern which was wrongly presumed as warp-faced compound weave for some time. Technical analysis of $Geum$: Main: silk, Binding: silk, Proportion: 1 main warp to 1 binding warp, Count: 15 main warps and 15 binding warps per centimeter, Weft: polychrome silk without apparent twist, Colors: yellow, mustard yellow, deep blue, green and purple, Weave: weft-faced compound twill, 1/2 S. $Geum$ of $Seokgatap$ was made in the $8^{th}$ century, since it was weaved in weft-faced compound weave twill which was popular in the $8-9^{th}$ century. And also, the arrangement of the colors was done in the same way of gradation $Geum$ silk which was popular in the $7-8^{th}$ C in China and Japan. Third, we restored the pattern of $Geum$ of the Unified Shilla Dynasty for the first time. It was very difficult to figure out the shape and the size of pattern since the fabric was partially lost and ruined. We tried to draw the diagram of structure with the cross point of the warp and the weft to restore the pattern. By doing so, we could identify two kinds of small flower pattern, palmette and the pattern of repeating vines. Fourth, we could infer that the $Geum$ of $Seokgatap$ was used for $geumdae$(a pouch made of $geum$) by analyzing all the documents and the characteristics of the fabric.