• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.281-292
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• 1997

Tatan is a symbol of kinship and belonging in Scotland and a badge of identity recognized all over the world. Alongside the powerful historical and national resonance to Tartan for Scots it has been borrowed repeatedly by fashion. The pattern compositionof Tartan check is formed as a typical cross stripes that vertical line and hrizontal line meets rectangulary. And its color is much various and rich than other check pattern. So its magnificient spec-tacle that various all kinds of colors is dyed in cloth is second to name. Today we are as likely to meet tartan in a couturier dress as in a kilt or plaid. Tartan is distinctive in colour style and de-sign. It conveys personality ceremony and drama. All these aspects of its character have contributed to tartan being one of the best-known and best-loved fabrics in the world. In other parts of Europe traditional checked patterns declined and disappeared but in Scotland tartan survived strongly jist as the bagpipes also European flourished Due to geographical and cultural circumstances Scots were able to develop and enhance tartan and its remarkable individuality ensured its sur-vival in spite of adverse political and economic pressures. Tartan has been adopted as the national dress of all Scots. Lowland and High-land providing a powerful form of national cultural and personal identity. Whether tra-ditional or a recent creation whether tra-ditional or a recent creation whether a symbol of nationality or a substitute for nationhood tartan is no mean achievement.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.932-948
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• 2021

Tartan, the woven, checked, and wool textile considered by many to be originally from Scotland, has in fact been in use in a range of forms across numerous cultures and during various historical periods. The characteristic checked feature is due to the assembly of different coloured threads in both warp and weft directions which intersect at 90 degrees in a combination known as a sett. For well over one hundred years, different setts and thus different colour combinations have been associated closely with different geographical regions within Scotland, as well as different clans or families. Tartan-type textiles have reached popularity at various times and those have often been a predicted fashion trend suggested, for example, by contributors to fashion gatherings such as Premier Vision in Paris. Often proposed designs are best considered based on tartan combinations rather than simple reproductions. Promotional terms such as "patched checks" or "textured checks" have been common, and often these have been derived from tartan-type constructions. This paper explores novel pattern design methods by identifying the underlying grid structures and proportions exhibited by various well-known tartan setts. The possibility of pattern development from tartan grids and their manipulations is thus the focus of attention. An insight into the methodology associated with the production of original pattern designs is thus provided.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.5-18
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• 1999

This study focus on the history of Scottish kilt and the application of kilt designed by Vivienne Westwood 1993 F/W. Up to late the 16 Century saffron shirt was worn among Highland men and belted plaid become common dress after the 17 Century. The early the 18 Century belted plaid have developed as a kilt separated to a upper and a lower skirt style. However Government banned wearing tartan and kilt after Culloden battle (1745) as highland Dress(tartan, kilt, belted plaid etc) was the symbol of rebellion. This legislation by Hanoverian authority continued for 35 years. Although most of tartan was disappeared during those period it has become popular among European upper class after george IV's visiting Scotlan in 1822. Highland Dress become Scottish national dress after Industrial revolution. Currently Vivienne Westwood's 93 F/W using tartan and kilt and its accessaries those items were successfully transformed modern ladies dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.169-183
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• 1998

The Tartan, the representative check pattern and traditional costume of Scothand, is the most popualr checker which has inherited from the clans of the Scotch Highlands in the ancient times and continued to develop. It is a symbol of the Scotch culture and tadition and widely used in various ways according to status, birthplace purpose and use. Therefore, this study was intended to inquire into Tartan check. The purpose of this study attempted to make a systematic investigation of the characteristic of the Tartan check. the checker using vertical and horizontal lines which was the universal plastic element and inquire into it in terms of era, designers and combined works. By doing so, this study attempted to investigate the phase of the Tartan check in world fashion and further forecast the future of checker design applicable to the 21th-Century fashion. In addition it, attempted to investigate the features of Scottch costume unknown in our academic circles and inquire into the proless in while the Scottch has retained the originality of its own which suppressed by neighboring countries. This study could find out that the checker is the element of infinite applicability in the future. It is expected that the sophisticated and beautiful design using the checker will be presented by many Korean designer through the overall and systanatic study of the checker. On the other hand, to make an empirical study costume of other races, a comprehensive examination should be made of the social and cultural background against which locals are using their costume, through the survey of their real costume and on-spot research. It this respect, this study has some limitation in time and data collection. Besides the analysis of costume through materials and photos in museums as well as the study of cloth material and accurate colors was not con여cted in this in this study. This will remain to be study of in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.53-68
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to analyze check pattern of nail art from 2011 to 2013. The results of this study are as follows; 1) Check pattern of nail art is total 257 patterns, and there are 84 argyle, 29 tartan, 24 harlequin, 24 over, 23 window-pane, 15 stitcheds, 13 hound tooth, 10 block, 10 madras, 8 gingham, 8 gradation, 7 shepherd, and 2 tattersall check patterns. Through this result, in nail art, the relatively simple patterns such as a vertical pattern, a horizontal pattern, and cross or overlap diagonal line are used more than elaborate and complex check patterns of a fibrous tissue from a weaving process. 2) In check pattern of nail art, N-affiliated color and R-affiliated color are remarkably well-used, because of the effects of argyle, tartan, window-pane, harlequin, stitched, over, and hound tooth check patterns used the most during the past three years. Especially, most tartan, harlequin, over, and hound tooth check patterns use their own special colors such as R-affiliated colors and N-affiliated colors as it is, and argyle, window-pane, stitched, and over check patterns use well by arranging N-affiliated colors and R-affiliated colors. 3) The most used expressive technique is hand painting to express check pattern in nail art, because new products related to UV gel are well launched. These materials can draw fine line that is hard to express by existing polish easily and simply, and not only have set quickly hard, so procedure time is very short, so it is compatible to draw check pattern personally, but also it is well covered, so check pattern is more clearly expressed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.922-927
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• 2015

Checks are best considered as a (visible) sub-set of grids, and each check consists of two assemblies of parallel lines, one superimposed on the other at ninety degrees. In the conventional textile context, one assembly of parallel yarns is superimposed on another at ninety degrees. These parallel lines caused by the yarns remain visually apparent in the finished composition. Commonly, checks are considered simply as a variety of woven textile and Scottish clan tartans, or plaids (common terminology for tartans in the USA), famously display a checked feature, using differently colored yarns in woven-textile form. Often the sequence of colours and the numbers of yarns used is equal in both warp and weft directions. Where this is the case, the tartan may be considered to be 'balanced' or 'regular', with the component yarns creating square units repeating across and down the fabric. Thus in balanced tartans, lengthways components have identical ordering, colouring and measured width to those used widthways. Meanwhile an unbalanced check lacks one or more of these attributes. This paper explores further the nature of Scottish clan tartans, using data collected from collections of rare tartans held at ULITA - An Archive of International Textiles at the University of Leeds.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.873-885
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• 2016

It is common knowledge that a conventionally woven textile consists of two assemblies of parallel threads (warp and weft), one interlaced with the other at ninety degrees. Where each of the two assemblies is arranged in a particular colour sequence, a check design, known as a 'tartan', may be created. Although similar check-type cloths have been produced worldwide, it is the tartans of Scotland which have received most attention and it is here that a complex set of rules evolved and tartans of different types became associated traditionally with different regions, family groups or 'clans'. There is an impressive array of publications focused on the identification of tartans and their clan associations. This paper explains the nature of tartans, analyses typical surface structures, ratios and proportions, and suggests possible avenues of use for modern designers. The principal sources of data were a collection of tartans held at ULITA - An Archive of International Textiles (University of Leeds, UK) and Stewart's 1974 publication The Setts of Scottish Tartans. Based on the observation that divisions into halfs and thirds were dominant, a series of templates is presented with the intention of developing an awareness among designers that ratios and proportions used in familiar or traditional frameworks can be employed in a modern context.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.141-149
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• 2000

The origin and developing process of Highland Dress as a Scottish national dress has been discussed in this study. Parameters affecting transformation process of Highland Dress from regional to national dress over the modernization period during 19 C was analyzed and compared by sociological aspect. Anthony Giddenss social change was applied and divided into three main factors such as political , economic and cultural analysis. The basic requirement of the theory of social change is visual recognization of any cultural changes. Highland Dress as a Scottish national dress has established during modernization in Europe within short period(18C -early 20C) and the Highland tartan as a military dress was transformed to be a civilian dress during 19-20 C. It shows social changes affecting on costume pattern and eventually costume in particular time could be an indicator of social changed. Throughout the study of the functional role of costume in Scotland is able to clarify the understanding of acculturation phenomenon through cultural, political and economic changes.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.16-24
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• 2017

This study examines Safdie's design philosophy: place, purpose, and process and design strategies found in museum buildings. Safdie, influenced by personal background as immigrant, education of McGil University in Canada, apprenticeship from Louis Kahn, is one of the most recognized architects who designed renowned public and cultural buildings after Habitat 67 in Montreal, Canada. In order to reveal design strategies his eight museum buildings has been selected and analyzed in terms of interpretation of context, program presented in floor plan and section design, and the process of integrity found in structure and material. The results of this paper can be summarized as follows: 1) Reflection of existing context and regeneration of the locality has been in a creative way to reinforce the sense of place. 2) The layout of major and gallery space is determined according to the Safdie's interpretation of the site context and this can be categorized into three types. 3) Integration of the innovative structural frame and material has been experimented by using tartan grid and toroid form in the major and gallery spaces. This study is intended to reevaluate the significance of Safdie's design approach to building uniqueness of the site, program and tectonic.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.149-162
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• 1998

This study is thed Embroidery, Cross-stitchery, Weaving, Wax-Printing of technique and design appeared in textile of Miaos dwells in south-west among the minority people of china. The study is as follows. First, the technique of textile1) satin stitch, couching stitch, french-knot stitch, etc. using anther silk thread or cotton thread color 2) cross-stitchery 3) hand-weaving technique which is shaped other warp or weft using simple loom 4) the technique of dyeing of pattern using effect with wax. These methods are singly used mixing together, therefore doubled beauty. Second, these technuque of ornament have other independence, specially ornament apron, sling, sleeve borders, slack borderss, edge of upper garment, take off and put on easily, heighten effect of various ornament, can preserve many years. Third, Maker, female born in this country fashion by need of herself, used liberal method shown in unique creativity of life. This texture make standards capable female proud of intelligent and skill of herself. Fourth, Design appeared in textile like as pattern flying bird in the sky, strolling beast in the field, lion rolling gem, laughing dragon winding snake at gem, birks, flowers, fish, butterfly is used as the wish of long life, a lucky sign. They expressed creativity and unique conception using formation : the technique transform other shape using by omitting or adding or overestimating. Geometric pattern of tartan, revealing, Fifth, composition structure having balance and symmetry or contradiction towards center and circumstance of the center harmonized repeatedly method, expressed unique artful attraction by full composition.