• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.79-89
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• 2017

Sensory attributes and preferences that contribute to consumer satisfaction with artificial leather were measured by subjective evaluation, and subjective hand and preferences were analyzed in relation to its use. Using tactile and visual senses, 50 experts in fashion and textile industry evaluated leathers classified into two categories, suede and polyurethane coated, according to different manufacturing methods. They answered questions on subjective hand and preferences of different artificial leathers of various fashion items (jackets, purses, bags, shoes, boots, furniture, etc.), using specific adjectives to describe the hand properties. As a result, it was found that the subjective hand properties of artificial leathers were related to 'Thickness', 'Fullness/softness', 'Surface contour', 'Stickiness', and 'Elasticity'. The leather type from different manufacturing methods influenced their perceived hand and preferences relating to use. By use, different hands were preferred. The preferences for jackets and furniture of suede type leathers were related to their surface properties, whereas the preferences for items of the other type of leathers were associated with their resilience. On the other hand, in the case of polyurethane coated leathers, the preferences for jackets were significantly affected by their thickness, while those for the other items were influenced by their resilience and surface properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.452-459
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• 1994

Fabric hand was assessed for 14 women's spring-fall dress fabrics based on the subjective hand evaluation scale developed in the part 1 of this study. The effects of fabric type, seam and dress style on the subjective hand evaluation of 470 Korean consumers (205 textile experts and 265 non-experts) were investigated. Mechanical properties obtained from KES-FB system were compared with the each dimension of subjective hand expression. The type of fiber and construction were considered to be important factors in affecting hand assessment of Korean consumers, however, the presence and type of seam were not considered to be important. There were certain characteristics of subjective hand attributes for each dress style. Surface properties of fabrics, even though it is not strictly mechanical properties, appeared to be the most effective dimension in the developement of new products which appeal to Korean conssumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.40-47
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• 2003

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of Tencel denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis. The subjective hand and the preference of Tencel denim fabrics were evaluated using the developed scale. The factors affecting consumers taste for Tencel denim fabrics were analyzed by statistics using SAS program. Also, the effects of cellulase treatment on the properties of Tencel denim fabrics were evaluated by the subjective hand measurements. The results are as follows: As the weight loss increased. fabrics were evaluated as finer, smoother, softer, warmer, more refined (surface properties), more compact and weaker (durability), more flexible, flossier, lighter, softer, thinner (sense of weight), more elastic, and less wrinkly (shape recovery). Fabrics were evaluated to have the dry touch regardless to the rate of weight loss (moisture properties). Overall hand preference of Tencel denim fabrics was in the side of not preferred. Hand of Tencel fabrics seems not to appeal to Korean people. Color preferences were not significantly different among five groups. The correlations between subjective hand and preference showed that fine, smooth, flexible, warm, refined, loose, soft, dry touches were preferred in Tencel denim fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.153-159
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• 2014

This study evaluates the changes of the subjective hand, preference, comfort and mechanical properties of tricot based artificial suede made from sea-island type micro fibers according to raising condition. The subjective hand and the preference of raised suede for jacket were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts according to raising cycles. Comfort properties were evaluated by air permeability, water vapor transmission, and thermal transmission. Mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand of artificial suede was categorized into three hand factors: smoothness, warmness and thickness. Smoothness, warmness and thickness perception increased with raising cycles which affected hand preference and luxuriousness perception. The thickness and wale density of suede increased with the number of raising. Suede became more compact and less pliable and less stretchable due to increased fabric thickness; in addition, the surface of suede became smoother and compressive since the surface evenness of suede improved with smaller fiber fineness and an increased amount of naps covered the base fabric. Furthermore, water vapor transmission decreased and thermal insulation increased. The best raising conditions for artificial suede was four cycles in which artificial suede was preferred without changes in physical properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1279-1290
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to make a scale for measuring the subjective hand of fabrics. For this purpose subjective hand expressions which were published in the journals were reviewed. 11 pairs(9 biopolar-pairs, 2 unipolar-pairs) were selected after searching the definitions in a dictionary followed by focus group interview and survey. To find out if these terminological biopolar pairs are agreed with the biopolar pairs in human sensation, a survey of fabric hand was undertaken using a scale consisted of 20 words(18 words from biopolar-pairs, 2 words from unipolar pairs). Among 11 pairs, 10 pairs except [taktakhada-poksinhada] were accepted as biopolar pair of word terminologically and sensuously. [taktakhada-poksinhada] was recognized as a biopolar pair terminologically but not sensuously. These 20 words were classified as 5 factors-surface contour, density, flexibility, dampness, and extensibility

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.220-229
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• 1999

The subjective hand and preference of alkaline hydrolized polyester fabrics were evaluated using the scale developed. The factors affecting consumer's taste for polyester fabrics was analyzed by the statistical technique. The effects of alkaline hydrolysis on the properties of polyester fabrics were evaluated by subjective and objective hand measurements. The lower the age the more senstive their feeling. As the age of evaluators decreased they felt fabrics light flexible refined thin flossy smooth fine soft more clinging. They also thought fabrics are colder, more flexible more spongy as the age increased. Experts were more sensitive and consistent when they evaluation the hand of fabrics than non-experts.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.442-445
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to compare the subjective fabric hand evaluation and wear comfort of PET treated by Ultraviolet and to evaluate the subjective results from the investigation of microclimate temperature. The subjective hand evaluation was performed by 20 subjects (age: 20-25) with 5-point scale questionnaires to investigate the change of PET knit fabrics treated for different times, specifically, 0, 30 and 90 minutes. The questionnaires were composite with 8 questions; roughness, smoothness, wetness, stiffness, coolness, touch, preference, and comfort. In order to evaluate sensations of wear comfort, we made garments with UV treated fabric and five female students were tested. They walked at the speed of 6.7 km/ hr for 15 minutes in an environment, which was controlled at $29^{\circ}C,\;75{\pm}5%$ RH. Before and after exercising, the microclimate under clothing and subjective wear comfort was measured. The results of subjective evaluation of fabric hand were that untreated and treated for 30 minutes PET were recognized as similar and have a good evaluation on comfort, preference, and touch. According to the result of wear comfort, clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes had the lowest value on the thermal and humidity sensations. In addition, the value of tactile and comfort sensation was the highest on the clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes. In the case of objective evaluation, PET treated for 90 minutes was the lowest on microclimate humidity. PET irradiated by UV for 90 minutes was more 'cool' in thermal sensation and more 'dry' in wet sensation. Accordingly, it was consistent with the result of subjective wear comfort.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.9_10
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• pp.1453-1464
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the hand of spring/fall fabrics for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' on subjective hand, objective hand and the preference. In this study, 28 varieties of spring/fall fabrics such as cotton fabrics, synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' are used. To evaluate the subjective hand of fabrics, the holistic touch and preferences, 33 seven ranks' segmentic differential scale questions are developed with adjective pairs and are gathered by surveying experts on clothes. The mechanical properties, HV and THV of them are measured and calculated by KES-FB system. Through subjective hand, items could be classified into six hand expressions: 'bulky/extensibility', 'stiffness', 'feeling of weight', 'surface property', 'drapability' and 'moisture property'. Through mechanical properties, the results indicated that the character of cotton fabrics are slight flexible, tough, rough, uneven, a bit heavy, thick and low resilience on tensile and compression, and then those of synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric are thin and light, smooth, flat and bulkless. In correlation on subjective evaluations and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok', cotton fabrics mainly depend on 'surface property' and 'moisture property' and then synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk depend on 'bulky/extensibility' and 'surface property' In correlation on objective hand and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok'. people aren't satisfied with low resilience. high stiffness and low drape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.605-615
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• 2000

This study was carried out to investigate sound characteristics including sound parameters and subjective sensation, and primary hand values related with sound of fabrics for blouse, and furthermore to predict subjective sound sensation with mechanical properties and sound parameters. Sound of specimens was analyzed by FFT. Level pressure of total sound(LPT), loudness(Z), coefficients of autoregressive(AR) functions for fitting the spectra, and sound color factors(ΔL and Δf) were obtained as sound parameters. Primary hand values for women's thin dress were calculated by using KES-FB. Subjective sensation for sound including softness, loudness, sharpness, clearness, roughness, highness, and pleasantness was evaluated by free modulus magnitude estimation. The results were as follows; 1. Fabrics for blouse showed similar spectral shapes to one another in that amplitude values were lower in most ranges of frequencies than fabrics for other uses. 2. It was found that fabrics for blouse were less louder because LPT, loudness(Z), and ARC values were lower than other fabrics. 3. Primary hand values indicated that specimens were soft-touched, flexible, and less crisp. Among primary hands related with sound, Shari values were higher for silk fabrics than for synthetic ones, while the values for Kishimi were similar, 4. Fabrics for blouse were rated more highly for softness, clearness, and pleasantness than for loudness, sharpness. roughness, and highness. Silk fabrics were evaluated more pleasant than synthetic fabrics. 5. Subjective sensation for sound of blouse fabrics were predicted with mechanical properties and physical sound parameters.