Fashion & Textile Research Journal (한국의류산업학회지)

The Society of Fashion and Textile Industry (한국의류산업학회)
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Subjective Hand and Physical Properties of Tricot based Artificial Suede according to Raising Finish

기모가공 조건에 따른 트리코 기포 인조 스웨이드의 태와 물성

  • Roh, Eui Kyung (The Research Institute of Korea Education, Chung-Ang University) ;
  • Oh, Kyung Wha (Dept. of Fashion Design, Chung-Ang University)
  • 노의경 (중앙대학교 한국교육문제 연구소) ;
  • 오경화 (중앙대학교 패션디자인전공)
  • Received : 2013.10.22
  • Accepted : 2014.01.05
  • Published : 2014.02.28
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Abstract

This study evaluates the changes of the subjective hand, preference, comfort and mechanical properties of tricot based artificial suede made from sea-island type micro fibers according to raising condition. The subjective hand and the preference of raised suede for jacket were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts according to raising cycles. Comfort properties were evaluated by air permeability, water vapor transmission, and thermal transmission. Mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand of artificial suede was categorized into three hand factors: smoothness, warmness and thickness. Smoothness, warmness and thickness perception increased with raising cycles which affected hand preference and luxuriousness perception. The thickness and wale density of suede increased with the number of raising. Suede became more compact and less pliable and less stretchable due to increased fabric thickness; in addition, the surface of suede became smoother and compressive since the surface evenness of suede improved with smaller fiber fineness and an increased amount of naps covered the base fabric. Furthermore, water vapor transmission decreased and thermal insulation increased. The best raising conditions for artificial suede was four cycles in which artificial suede was preferred without changes in physical properties.

Keywords

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