• 제목/요약/키워드: subcultures

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하위문화 패션스타일 유형(2) (A Study on the Patterns of Subcultural Fashion Style(2))

  • 양미경
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제7권2호
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    • pp.159-170
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    • 2005
  • In this paper we examine the patterns of the subcultural fashion styles in the 20th century in terms of various subcultures in the period. First, we define the concept of the subcultural fashion styles and in turn, examine the subcultural fashion styles from 1950s to 1990s while focusing on the way each generation resisted against the mainstream through its styles. The subcultural fashion styles examined and analyzed in this study are mainly British and American styles. some of European and Western Indian styles are also included. In this paper, a subcultural fashion style is understood as a way of deviate or resistant expression within a society. It differentiates itself from the main style by deliberately and publicly asserting its own identity. And as a result, it is realized in a form of a fashion with its repressed subconsciousness, with resistance to the alienation from the society, and with deviation from the normative ethics and the morality of a society. In conclusion, we classify the subcultural fashion styles into two patterns based on their form of resistance which tries to distance itself from the ritual code of the day: the dressing of the escape from time and the dressing of the escape from space. The first pattern is characterized by nostalgia or futurism, and includes psychedelic, rastafarian, raver, techno style. The second Pattern includes surfer, folky, hippy, new age traveller, cyberpunk style. Especially, an emphasis is given on ethnicity, naturalism, or a closed space within a city in dressing of the escape from space.

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적응진화를 활용한 cellobiose와 xylose 동시발효 Pichia stipitis의 개발 (Development of Pichia stipitis Co-fermenting Cellobiose and Xylose Through Adaptive Evolution)

  • 김대환;이원흥
    • 한국미생물·생명공학회지
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    • 제47권4호
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    • pp.565-573
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    • 2019
  • 섬유소계 바이오매스로부터 바이오 연료 등과 같은 유용한 물질을 생산하기 위해서는 바이오매스로부터 유래하는 혼합당을 효과적으로 대사할 수 있는 균주의 개발이 필수적이다. 본 연구에서는 xylose를 대사가 가능한 효모인 P. stipitis를 적응진화하여 cellobiose 대사효율이 향상되고 cellobiose와 xylose를 동시에 대사할 수 있는 균주를 개발하고자 하였다. 총 10회의 계대배양을 통해 얻어진 진화된 P. stipitis 돌연변이 균주는 모균주에 비해 6배 이상 증가된 cellobiose 대사속도를 나타내었으며 ethanol 생산수율을 0에서 0.4 (g ethanol/g cellobiose)로 향상시켰다. 아울러 본 실험에서 개발한 돌연변이 균주는 cellobiose와 xylose 혼합당 조건에서 모균주에 비해 2배 가까이 향상된 ethanol 생산 및 생산속도를 나타내었다.

과학과 기술의 관계 (Relation between Science and Technology)

  • 김유신
    • 공학교육연구
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    • 제1권1호
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    • pp.57-79
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    • 1998
  • 이 논문에서는 과학과 기술의 관계에 대해 기술은 응용 과학이라는 계층적 모델을 비판하고, 그 둘은 서로 독자적 영역을 가지면서 상호작용 한다는 상호작용 모델을 옹호한다. 상호작용은 모델에 의하면, 기술은 비록 과학으로부터 많은 지식을 빌려오지만 과학으로부터 오지않은 자신의 지식영역이 있다. 기술을 구성하는 여러 성분 중에서 특히 공학과학으로서의 기술에 중점을 두었고, 공학과학의 핵심을 설계에 있다는 것을 이야기 하고 공학설계의 특성에 관해 논의했다. 기술적 지식이 과학적 지식과 다른 것 중 하나는 기술적 지식의 변화 모델이 과학적 지식의 변화 모델과는 다르다는 것이다. 기술적 지식의 두 가지 중요한 모델인 쿤 방식의 모델과 변이-선택 모델을 논의하면서 두 모델의 약점을 이야기 했다. 과학과 기술의 상호과학적 지식의 작용은 '매개된 상호작용'이라는 모델을 제시했고 그 모델의 가능성에 대해 간단히 이야기 했다. 산업계의 연구는 과학과 기술 사이의 상호작용의 한 형태이다. 이 산업계의 연구를 통해서 과학-기술은 점점 구조화되고 자율성을 띈다. 과학자와 공학자는 인격적 주체자이기 보다는 단순히 산업연구 구조의 한 부분이 되어 버린다.

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Anaerobic Degradation of cis-1,2-Dichloroethylene by Cultures Enriched from a Landfill Leachate Sediment

  • Chang, Young-Cheol;Jung, KwEon;Yoo, Young-Sik
    • Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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    • 제13권3호
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    • pp.366-372
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    • 2003
  • The production of microbiologically enriched cultures that degrade cis- 1,2-dichloroethylene(DCE) under anaerobic conditions was investigated. Among 80 environmental samples, 19 displayed significant degradation of $10{\mu}M$ cis-DCE during 1 month of anaerobic incubation, and one sediment sample collected at a landfill area (Nanji-do, Seoul, Korea) showed the greatest degradation ($94\%$). When this sediment culture was subcultured repeatedly, the ability to degrade cis-DCE gradually decreased. However, under Fe(III)-reducing conditions, cis-DCE degradation by the subculture was found to be maintained effectively. In the Fe(III)-reducing subculture, vinyl chloride (VC) was also degraded at the same extent as cis-DCE No accumulation of VC during the cis-DCE degradation was observed. Thus, Fe(III)-reducing microbes might be involved in the anaerobic degradation of the chlorinated ethenes. However, the subcultures established with Fe(III) could function even in the absence of Fe(III), showing that the degradation of cis-DCE and VC was not directly coupled with the Fe(III) reduction. Consequently, the two series of enrichment cultures could not be obtained that degrade both cis-DCE and VC in the presence or absence of Fe(III). Considering the lack of VC accumulation, both cultures reported herein may involve interesting mechanism(s) for the microbial remediation of environments contaminated with chlorinated ethenes. A number of fermentative reducers (microbes) which are known to reduce Fe(III) during their anaerobic growth are potential candidates involved in cir-DCE degradation in the presence and absence of Fe(III).

Functional Characteristics and Diversity of a Novel Lignocelluloses Degrading Composite Microbial System with High Xylanase Activity

  • Guo, Peng;Zhu, Wanbin;Wang, Hui;Lu, Yucai;Wang, Xiaofen;Zheng, Dan;Cui, Zongjun
    • Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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    • 제20권2호
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    • pp.254-264
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    • 2010
  • To obtain an efficient natural lignocellulolytic complex enzyme, we screened an efficient lignocellulose-degrading composite microbial system (XDC-2) from composted agricultural and animal wastes amended soil following a long-term directed acclimation. Not only could the XDC-2 degrade natural lignocelluloses, but it could also secrete extracellular xylanase efficiently in liquid culture under static conditions at room temperature. The XDC-2 degraded rice straw by 60.3% after fermentation for 15 days. Hemicelluloses were decomposed effectively, whereas the extracellular xylanase activity was dominant with an activity of 8.357 U/ml on day 6 of the fermentation period. The extracellular crude enzyme noticeably hydrolyzed natural lignocelluloses. The optimum temperature and pH for the xylanase activity were $40^{\circ}C$ and 6.0. However, the xylanase was activated in a wide pH range of 3.0-10.0, and retained more than 80% of its activity at $25-35^{\circ}C$ and pH 5.0-8.0 after three days of incubation in liquid culture under static conditions. PCR-DGGE analysis of successive subcultures indicated that the XDC-2 was structurally stable over long-term restricted and directed cultivation. Analysis of the 168 rRNA gene clone library showed that the XDC-2 was mainly composed of mesophilic bacteria related to the genera Clostridium, Bacteroides, Alcaligenes, Pseudomonas, etc. Our results offer a new approach to exploring efficient lignocellulolytic enzymes by constructing a high-performance composite microbial system with synergistic complex enzymes.

Growth and Cultural Characteristics of Cordyceps cardinalis Collected from Korea

  • Sung, Gi-Ho;Shrestha, Bhushan;Han, Sang-Kuk;Kim, Soo-Young;Sung, Jae-Mo
    • Mycobiology
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    • 제38권4호
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    • pp.274-281
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    • 2010
  • Cordyceps cardinalis was reported in Japan and the USA in 2004, and its fruiting bodies have recently been cultured in Korea. Herbarium specimens preserved at the Cordyceps Research Institute, Mushtech, Korea were revised and identified as C. cardinalis, based on morphological characters and conidial structures. Most of the C. cardinalis specimens were collected from Mt. Halla in Jeju-do. The effects of various nutritional sources and environmental conditions such as temperature and pH on mycelial growth of C. cardinalis were studied. Oatmeal agar, Martin's peptone dextrose agar, and Schizophyllum (mushroom) genetics complete medium plus yeast extract resulted in the best mycelial growth. Among carbon sources, cereals, and nitrogen sources, maltose, oatmeal, and peptone resulted in the best mycelial growth respectively. Mineral salts helped to increase growth rate but only resulted in thin mycelial density, similar to water agar. A temperature of $25^{\circ}C$ and a pH of 7 resulted in the highest mycelial growth. Based on these results, a Cordyceps cardinalis composite medium (CCM) was formulated with 1% maltose, 2% oatmeal, 1% peptone, and 2% agar. Use of the CCM resulted in slightly better mycelial growth than that of other commonly used agar media. Only organic nitrogen sources imparted a reddish pigmentation to the agar media, but this character diminished after several subcultures. A 7 day culture duration resulted in the best mycelial growth.

힙합 패션 트렌드에 관한 연구 -2000년대 이후 트렌드를 중심으로- (A Study of Hip-hop Fashion Trends -Focusing on the Trends Since 2000-)

  • 김윤
    • 복식
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    • 제60권2호
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    • pp.1-19
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this research is to examine the rise of hip-hop culture and its characteristics which have been established as a part of popular culture amid other subcultures and to examine the overall concept of hip-hop fashion which has been developing since its rise in the 1970s and particularly to examine the hip-hop after the turn of the new century when it has gone through several iterations and changes while simultaneously accommodating different trends and reflecting a highly diverse larger culture. The research methodology is a literature-based research that uses classification and analysis based on the preceding research including related books and dissertations and, considering that this research focuses on the characteristics of hip-hop from the 2000s to the present, mainstream news media such as newspapers and magazines around New York images of famous hip-hop culture & stores websites were used in this research. The most characteristic hip-hop fashions since the 2000s examined by this research comprise prep-hop, slim formal suits, skurban, hip-hop Goth, and hip-hop Tatto. First, prep-hop is a mixed match of a preppy look with latest hip-hop sentiments and hip-hop styles. Second, there are slim formal suits that reflect a change of trends that strongly show changes of hip-hop fashion consumers who have been following sports stars' fashions. Third, skurban is a hip-hop fashion combined with the look of skaters. Fourth, hip-hop Goth is what emphasizes strong Goth images such as grunge, skull, and devil in hip-hop fashions based on vintage fashion. Fifth, hip-hop Tatto style designs have appeared in diverse items such as trendy clothes and accessories that were most popular since the 2000s. Hip-hop fashion since the 2000s up to the present is beginning to be integrated with diverse other cultures and its most prominent characteristics is a change into slimmer silhouette.

현대패션에 나타난 스웨그(swag)룩 (The Swag Look in Modern Fashion)

  • 이정호;이진민
    • 복식
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    • 제66권4호
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    • pp.94-110
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    • 2016
  • The purpose of this study is to delve into the identity of the swag style which has diversified into various forms by exploring the phenomenon, formative characteristics and the internal values of the swag style in modern fashioin. This study discusses the concept and the socio-cultural meanings of swag from the perspective of Jean Baudrillard's hyper-reality, and a form of existence. The classifies the swag fashion styles into parody, hip hop and collage-type mix-and-match. Expressive characteristics of the swag look in modern fashion are as follows. First, the swag look utilizes the parody technique. In the mid-2000s, the look parodied brand logos as a form of self-mocking and active self-derision toward cheap imitations. Second, the swag look borrows from the expressive factors of the hip-hop style. Born as a sub-culture based on music, hip-hop has become a way of life, as its nature became multi-cultural and trans-cultural while its fashion style gained popularity globally after the 1980s. Third, the swag look barrows from the pop-type collage form as it mixes-and-matches costume items based on the expressive characteristics of hip hop, and this can be seen through items being used in new, non-formative and free styles. Comic aesthetics is revealed in parodied expression, hip-hop factors and collage-style mix-and-match. Swag as a hyper-reality manifests itself in various natures: humorous nature, negative nature and deconstructive nature through reflection and re-enactment of reality, transmutation and distortion of reality, and absence of reality respectively. However, it does not have a binding nature, which is the norm for subcultures. This characteristic, in combination with it having internal lightness, strong meaning of communication, and a sharing of self-contentment, distinguishes itself from the general meanings of existing parody fashion, hip-hop fashion and collage fashion.

20세기 패션에 나타난 하위문화 스타일의 조형성에 관한 연구 - 헤어스타일을 중심으로- (A Study on Formative Characteristic of Subculture Style in 20C Fashion -Focused on Hair Style -)

  • 김정미;설유진
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제8권2호
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    • pp.225-232
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    • 2006
  • This study purposed to review the concept and characteristics of subculture theoretically and then to analyze subcultural hairstyles shown in the 20th century's fashion in terms of form, structure, texture, design line and design principle, which were formative factors of beauty art. The range of this study was from the 1950's to the 1990's, during which subcultural hairstyles, which were selected for this study, kept a unique formality as subcultural characteristics of each time were reflected in hairstyles. The hairstyles found in subcultural styles were reviewed as follows. From the formative analysis as the above, it was concluded that layer form was seen most frequently in the subcultural hairstyles. This may be because it has a lot of layers in hair, and enables to make more various forms with a simpler care than other hairstyles so that it is easy to show one's own characteristic or differentiate oneself from others. Thanks to the characteristics of layer form, horizontal and convex were often seen as design lines. As for a texture, straight often appeared. The texture of straight is naturally formed without any care applied on hair. The reason may be that most subcultures refused artificiality. Therefore, the characteristics of subcultural hairstyles may be that hairstyles are transformed into various forms and created into the styles appropriately for individual tastes so as to clearly express one's own idea and thought.

Kinfolk 매거진에 나타난 안티패션(anti-fashion) 경향 (Tendencies of anti-fashion in Kinfolk magazine)

  • 임아름;임은혁
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제25권5호
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    • pp.629-647
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    • 2017
  • As fashion has concentrated increasingly on inner values, it has become more directly connected with human life and society. This study analyzed anti-fashion, a movement that resists mainstream society and culture, which it views as causing inner conflicts such as competition, mammonism, consumerism, and egoism by fixating solely on the pursuit of growth and improvement. The study examined Kinfolk, an independent lifestyle magazine, to determine the essential values and principles that comprise this movement's refusal of mainstream modern society. The analysis of Kinfolk identified the following characteristics of, the Kinfolk lifestyle: essentialism, nature-friendliness, retro sensibilities, socio-ethical awareness, and diversity. Essentialism refers to the pursuit of essence, brevity, innovation based on tradition and slow life. Nature-friendliness involves communion with nature and humanity, animal-friendliness, de-industrialization, de-urbanization, and nomadic behavior. The components of the retro sensibility include nostalgia, and interests in vintage culture, and handcrafts. Diversity encompasses commonplaceness, various subcultures, agelessness, genderlessness, acceptance of other cultures, and new understanding. The analysis identified the tendencies of anti-fashion in Kinfolk magazine as simplicity, naturalism, resistance to novelty, ethics, and inclusiveness. Anti-fashion pursues the essential values of human life that have been lost or forgotten in modern society. It is important to pay constant attention to the values of minority, non-mainstream and indie cultures that represent anti-fashion. It exerts considerable influence and has great potential as an area for the development of various style-based paradigms rather than as a single fashion direction.