• Title/Summary/Keyword: subcultural style

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Youth Subcultural Styles in Britain Since World War II -the symbolical meanings of Teds, Mods, Skinheads, Hippies, and Punks- (2차대전 후 영국 청소년 하위문화 스타일 -Teddy Boys, Mods, Hippies, Skinheads 와 Punks 스타일의 상징성에 대하여-)

  • Kim Min Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.11 no.2 s.24
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    • pp.69-89
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    • 1987
  • The objective of this paper was to identify the general concept of subculture; to assess the symbolism of youth subculture style, such as Teds in the 40's, Mods in the 50's, Skinheads and Hippies in the 60's, and Punks in the 80's, giving an inspiration to many high fashion designers. The data were collected from eye-wittness reports, interviews, magazines such as Vogue, The Face, and The Sunday Times, postcards, and photos taken by authors. Youth subcultures were symbolized as 1) a social protest and disaffection against social class and racism, 2) an expression of shock value for nihilism, anarchism, and vandalism, 3) a meaningful sexual fetishism concerning gender confusion, and 4) an emotion of rage, fear, and alienation among working class youth. One cultural form in a subculture is its 'style.' Costumes, appearances, and accessories such as hair style, make-up, and jewellery were playing an important role in forming a subcultural style. The symbolism of youth subculture was well depicted on their clothing styles, which had influences on Zandra Rhodes's, Body Maps', and Hyper and Hyper's fashion design.

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The Influence of Postmodernism on 20th Century Fashion (포스트모더니즘이 20세기 패션에 미친 영향)

  • 조정미
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.11 no.6
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    • pp.925-940
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the major influence of postmodernism on 20th century fashion. Due to its characteristic traits like pluralism, indeterminacy, and immanence, it can be said that postmodernism in fashion manifests itself in an overlapped and duplicated style. The conceptual side has to do with such various 20th century thoughts as decanonization, deconstruction, populism, and in fashion it is presented as subcultural style, syncretic style, and post-feminist style. The stylistic side of postmodernism in fashion also has to do with fragmentation, hybridity, stress on performance and participation, carnivalization, deconstructive turn, and it is presented as hybrid expression, deconstructive technique, performance, and so on. In the latter part of the 20th century in which postmodernism blossoms in various fields, fashion also participates in the current of the times, together with the rapid stylistic turn, the co-existence of various trends, and the experimental or avant-garde new trials. However, it should be said that all of these tendencies mean not so much blurring of the boundaries between styles as developmental mixture of styles coming from juxtaposition after fully realizing the boundaries of contrast and combination.

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Fashion Changes in Subcultural Styles (2) -Focus on the Teddy Boys Style- (하위문화맥락에서 본 패션형태의 변화(2) -Teddy Boys를 중심으로-)

  • 양미경
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.4 no.1
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    • pp.61-72
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    • 2002
  • This paper is the second part of a series of the research about the Teddy boy style which is to examine various fashion changes in subcultural styles in 1900s. The main concern of this research is to investigate the creation and meaning of the Teddy boy style, how it interacted with the elements of class and generation and how the materials needed by the group constructed and appropriated into the visible systematic cultural form of correspondence. The Teddy Boys are the first recognized members of the British youth culture, which is known as the new Edwardian because of their dress. They had created the concept of the "teenagers," which forms the basis of the sense of a "generation" in the 20th century. The Teds set the style that would be used and modified in the following generations. They adopted the Edwardian style of the upper class, and changed it into their own style by modifying it and adding to it some other elements. The Teddy boys style is a special version of the sartorial appropriation encountered in the sphere of the fashion history. It actually began immediately after the war by the upper class youth far from the working class neighborhood. In the late 1953, the elitist aura surrounding the Edwardian suit was suddenly shattered. Within just a few months, the Edwardian suit became a source of social anxiety and the focus of a symbolic battle. Although the Edwardian look had initially went back to the upper class root, it became a symbol of rootlessness. In appropriation of this image, The Teddy boys were also rejecting the sartorial conformism of the English working class with its modest tradition. In this respect, the Teds effected the ascent or fall of the working class in the area of fashion. The Teds dress was not a merely borrowed fashion, but was a bastard fashion in the form of American trends, the Zoot suit. At this time members of the working class possessed only work dress for the week and waist suits for the Sunday outings. Teds broke this pattern, and developed the working class dandyism of wearing clothes simply to show off. The results were that they succeeded in opening the teen market, and popularizing a working class style for the first time in British history. The Teds became the first British street style with ties music, and remain as an symbol of the rising of a new age of values and styles.f values and styles.

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Development of an Explanatory Model for Decision of Fashion Style and Its Diffusion Process Based on Ambivalence of Pursuit Values (유행 스타일의 결정과 확산에 대한 설명모형 연구 -추구가치의 양면성을 중심으로-)

  • 김선숙;이은영
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.19 no.4
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    • pp.637-650
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    • 1995
  • The purpose of the study was to develop a model to explain how a fashion style is determined within a society and how the style diffuses. The research was carried out in two stages, theoretical study followed by empirical study. In the theoretical study, explanatory model about decision of fashion style and diffusion was developed and then fashion diffusion theories and fashion phenomenon of postholder society were explained by the model developed. The theoretical framework of the explanatory model was constructed in that fashion changes by ambivalence of pursuit values within an individual as well as within a society. The empirical study was carried out to validate the model by looking into fashion phenomenon in the postmodern society A questionnaire was developed including style image, pursuit value, preference style and administered to 19 to 30 year-old women living in Seoul area. Frequency distribution, discriminant analysis, one-way ANOVA. were used for the statistical analysis. As pursuit values differed in each style preference stoup, and pursuit value coincided with image of preference style it was confirmed that clothing selection behavior was determined by pursuit value. In a postmodern society where variety of values are pursued, appearance of various products and preference of all styles altogether considered, it could assume that subcultural collective selection phenomenon appeared.

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British street style as an orginal text of subculture fashion (하위문화 패션 출처로서의 영국 street style 연구)

  • 양숙희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.42
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    • pp.137-162
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this thesis was twofold. First it explains the emergence of street styles and their inner meanings from its origin subculture group practices. Recent developments in cultural studies which approach cultural practices in a holistic way by incorporating socio-economic background offers us the concept of 'hegemonic relation' it explains why subcultural practices and street style in particular has weakened from 19080s as well as why in the post-subculture period we observe the 'superma-rketization' of styles and plethora of eclecticism instead of original ones. Street styles as a magical expression or resolution of socio-economic frustrations are anticipated to weaken significantly if not totally disappear in the post-modern era although it has become the original texts of high fashion.

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A Study on the Costumes expressed in the John Cameron Mitchell's Movie (존 카메론 밋첼의 영화 <헤드윅>에 나타난 복식에 관한 연구)

  • Seo, Eun-Hye;Kim, Hye-Jeong
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.16 no.2
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    • pp.163-179
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    • 2012
  • Among diverse cultural types which can be shown in movie, 'Subculture' is young culture that resist to major culture. It shows its belief and identity via its own style. Their 'Subcultural Style' became popular with mass media and has been affected to major cultures. Therefore, in this research, with times background as postmodernism in end of 20th century and mainly with movie which is about sexual minorities, I analyzed categories of costumes in the movie. Hedwig's rock costume shows combined fashion with hippie, punk, glam, kitsch, goth styles from the impact of postmodernism in mid 20th century. Tommy, showed his relief and defiant intention against old generations with grunge casual and graffiti styles. After he realized Hedwig's identity and showed defiant goth rock style as a famous rocker. The band, "Angry Inch", showed dissatisfaction and cynical attitude against the American society through subculture styles. Through this research, the fact that movie costume used a tool to show human's identity and value. Also, I can see that movie costume shows times and cultural phenomenon in the end of 20th century and through this, it was confirmed that this contributes to crease new fashion style through them.

Characteristics of Consumers and Their Perceptions of Natural-Dyed Clothes (천연염색 의류에 대한 소비자 반응 및 소비자 특성)

  • 홍나영;유혜경;이주현;석혜정;신혜성;김찬주
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.11 no.3
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    • pp.404-415
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    • 2003
  • The main purpose of this exploratory research was to examine the characteristics of consumers who patronize natural-dyed clothes and their perceptions regarding natural-dyed clothes. Thirty three participants who have worn natural-dyed clothes were interviewed for the study. They were asked about the styles and price of natural-dyed clothes they owned, their evaluation on them, and the lifestyles of themselves. Existence of subculture among the interviewes and its characteristics were also probed. The results indicated that natural-dyed clothes are relatively high-priced, mostly of modified hanbok style, and became popular in recent years. Interviewees frequently mentioned uniqueness and comfort as the main benefits of natural-dyed clothes, and expressed dissatisfaction regarding color fastness, easy care and problem of coordination. The consumers of natural-dyed clothes appeared to have strong preferences for environment conservation and Korean traditional culture. They also seemed to form a subcultural group who have commonality in their involvement in Korean cultural activities, mainly tea ceremony.

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Influence of Cultural Activities on Korean Youth Fashion From 1997 to 2004

  • Cho Yeagene;Park Meegnee
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.4 no.2
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    • pp.30-39
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    • 2004
  • This study aims to investigate various cultural activities of the Korean youth including the subcultural and popular cultural activities and their characteristics and influences on the youth fashion during the period 1996-2004. This study employs a qualitative approach based on the previous discussions of relevant literatures dealing with Korean youth culture and their fashion styles. The result of the study shows that the most prominent characteristic in youth fashion of the period was 'bricolage.' The appearance of 'Seotaiji' and the activities of his group laid the cornerstone of youth culture in the early 1990's. The influence of postmodernism changed the conventional sexism and androgynous outfit thrived. The androgynous effect also had strong influence on men's fashion in what turned out to be Metro-Sexual in early 2004. During the period 2000-2004 the postmodernism regained its popularity both in culture and fashion. 'Body' was also an important part of youth culture and has become the most popular and prevalent word of this era. At the same time the 'Well-Being' and sports look were the new trend of youth fashion. Sports look, also known as Caports, is one of these new trends and the most important youth fashion style like mix & match reformation. The youth became more and more aware of the body image and were interested in fashion as well. This trend awareness of their body and Well-Being image as well as their inclination to the fashion in the youth is expected to continue. Therefore the fashion industry, as their marketing strategy, needs to analyze the characteristics of the cultural trends among the youth and to prepare for the future need of youth fashion.

The Aesthetic Qualities Featured in Vivienne Westwood's Works (비비안 웨스트우드(Vivienne Westwood)의 작품세계와 미적특성)

  • 염혜정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.37
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    • pp.71-88
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    • 1998
  • This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

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Socio-cultural Meanings in Advertisement of Fashion Luxury Products -Focused on Women`s Images- (패션명품 광고에 나타난 사회문화적 의미 -여성 이미지를 중심으로-)

  • Yang, Sook-Hi;Hahn, Soo-Yeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.29 no.2
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    • pp.267-278
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    • 2005
  • Fashion luxury products, which used to mean high-quality, handcrafted not-so-trendy items, are nowadays regarded as expensive fashion merchandise produced under the name of imported well-known brands. People cunsuming fashion luxury products distinguish themselves from other people according to the luxury fashion brands they are using, and as a result, advertisements of fashion luxury products are taken as a kind of international language. The purpose of this study is to point out the socio-cultural meanings of consuming fashion luxury products, by analyzing images shown in advertisements of fashion luxury products focusing on women's images. To do so, this study is based on general theoretical background on fashion, consumer culture advertising and analysis advertisements of fashion luxury products shown in fashion magazines in recent three years. The result of this study is as follows; The images of the advertisements of fashion luxury products could be categorized as (1) elegance, (2) kitsch and (3) fetish. Elegance is a taste of high society, aesthetically chic and feminine. Fashion luxury products, which are merchandise of extravagance, dignity, refinement, feminity and harmony, exhibit high-quality grace through their advertisements. Kitsch represents the vulgar and popular images of trivial commodities of industrial society. In the advertisement of fashion luxury product, it is shown as inappropriateness, excessiveness, stereotyped pleasantness, exaggeration an playful satisfaction. Finally, fetish images represent erotic or perverted sexuality, based on psychoanalytic fetishism which objects are regarded s substitute of sexual orgasm. The advertisements of fashion luxury product are characterized as (1) popularization of luxury, (2) objectification of sex and body, and (3) re-aestetification of anti-aesthetics. The asvertisements of fashion luxury products are actually targeted to the middle class with successful career women's images. They objectify female bodies through fetishistic images. Also, the deviant subcultural style, represented a new kind of cultural capital, is now reproduced as a new commodity aesthetics.