• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.755-773
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• 2010

The purpose of the study was to examine concept of subculture and style of subculture by each age and to analyze internal meaning of hairstyle in subculture. The study carried out literary review on the basis of books related to subculture and hairstyle focused on the cradle of subculture and preceding researches of subculture style, and strived to find internal meaning of hairstyle by describing in-depth descriptive methods of qualitative research. And the study limited its range in the hairstyle in style of subculture from 1930s to early 1990s commonly described in subculture related books. As a result, there were natural pattern, cutting pattern, exaggerated pattern, set pattern, braid pattern, color pattern and addition pattern in types of hairstyle in subculture. The hairstyle in subculture symbolizes their internal value and ideology and hairstyle is a kind of language to express identity of subculture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Subcultural style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of membership. The Goth subculture has associated tastes in music, aesthetics, and fashion. The style symbolized the strong subjective subcultural identity held by most Goths and acted as the practical basis to demonstrate their commitment to the subculture. This study investigates the aesthetic and the style of Goth subculture in its heyday of 1980s which has continued to affect mainstream fashion and culture since its birth. In order to inquire the concept of subculture and its style, this study executes literature survey as well as investigates the images of street style magazines to analyze the visual elements. The stylistic and the aesthetic characteristics of Goth subcultural style analyzed in this study are grouped into four categories as follows: first, Victoriana, which embodies the fear of death and the nostalgia for the past using Victorian morning dresses and corsets, second, vampirism, in that some Goths who are fascinated by vampires are costumed in vampire figures to advocate diabolism and decadence, third, sexual ambiguity of male Goths which emphasizes feminine appearance in the pursuit of androgyny, and fourth, sexual fetish of female Goths which represents aggressive eroticism utilizing fetish paraphernalia.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.143-152
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• 2005

Stepping in the 1990s, we has lived under the time of co-existence of diverse culture as well as faced the diffusion of pop-culture. The border between subculture style and hi-fashion has been blurred since beginning of 1990s. By this reason, recognizing the power of influence and importance of subculture style, we will try to provide the comprehensive vision reflecting the cultural background to analyze the subculture style. We will conclude this article with discussing the club-culture which is settle as one type of culture. Enjoying the club-culture, clubber tries to escape from the structural estrangement putting by the magical and symbolic meaning through creating their own style, and endowing their life the meaning. They make liquid club wear targeting at general young culture, pop culture, and subculture as well as hippies, Mods, funk. The Club wear around University sort out Hiphop Style, Casual Style, Mix and Match style. As at the club the hiphop music was played, the hiphop style dress becomes the club ware. Especially, training style clothes which is easy to dance has become the everyday dress, not just restricted in the indoor dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.6 s.96
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• pp.159-171
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• 2005

The Goth style arouses Medieval syndrome, nostalgia and decadence, considering that Goth style shown in the contemporary fashion rend, tradition and fantasy that appeared in transition of the 21st century. This study is based on documents related to real Goth festivals and events to grasp various characteristics of Goth street style. The Goth style shown in high fashion classified the style on the basis of characteristics of camp culture from the viewpoint of bottom up from non-mainstream to mainstream with catwalk as the central figure. Considering appearance of Goth, property of subculture after the 1980s as alternative subculture as well phenomenon of latter subculture. Also it was possible to grasp attribute of lifestyle shown in music and fashion code from the viewpoint that alternative subculture was in pursuit of individual personality and autonomy. As an alternative subculture, Goth that appeared in UK from the late 1970s to the early 80s is considered new lifestyle, which means the scene of modern underground.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.83-98
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• 2022

This study identified the characteristics of the subculture aspects that led to the success of luxury brands and analyzed the implications of those aspects. For this, semantic analysis in a socio-cultural context was performed. Additionally, this study took the theoretical background, the change in subculture and post-subculture, the digital youth generation, and the change in the meaning of subculture style into consideration. The subculture style aspect and its meaning in luxury fashion brands were analyzed as follows: First, there are challenges that betray the legitimacy or values of luxury brands. Through this, the brand gained recognition and increased sales, and the designer gained a reputation as an innovative creative director. It can be seen that more successful branding was promoted by securing a more subcultured fandom. Second, by combining subculture image fragments, these brands cater to the diverse tastes of a myriad of subcultures. This maximizes commercial profits. Third, most promotional marketing activities are collaborative and done digitally, which allows for a wider customer base, but the difference is in digital capabilities. Limited editions or application use on social networks can act as another driver. It is said that the distinction in high-priced luxury brands is not only driven by economic power but also by sub-cultural capital and digital ability.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.150-164
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• 2021

This study analyzed the punk style shown in the movie Sid and Nancy (1986), based on a true story. The purpose of this study was to prove that the styles of the main characters had some discriminatory mode as an anti-fashion with not only the value system of the subculture but also the diverse cultural codes applied, revealing their identity. The scope of this study covered the 1970s when Sid died while a member of the Sex Pistols, but was limited to the analysis of Sid and Nancy's costumes. As theoretical background, this study reviewed the preceding studies, specialty books, movie-related sites and their postings, and on-line news reports. To analyze the movie costumes, relevant scenes on the DVD were captured, and thereby, the scenes were categorized per character and style but a performance scene was categorized Sid and Nancy as same punky wedding style because of intention spirituality to marriage by director, and thereupon, 17-cut images were used for the analysis of main characters' styles. Sid's style consisted primarily of black leather jackets, symbolic T-shirts, and jeans, whereas Nancy's style implied a punk style with added fetish styles. Even in the same punk style, their identities were symbolized through bricolage. Through this, subculture styles, were able to confirm that in addition to the value system of subculture, discriminatory modes as anti-fashion with various cultural codes played a role in revealing their identity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.2 s.24
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• pp.69-89
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• 1987

The objective of this paper was to identify the general concept of subculture; to assess the symbolism of youth subculture style, such as Teds in the 40's, Mods in the 50's, Skinheads and Hippies in the 60's, and Punks in the 80's, giving an inspiration to many high fashion designers. The data were collected from eye-wittness reports, interviews, magazines such as Vogue, The Face, and The Sunday Times, postcards, and photos taken by authors. Youth subcultures were symbolized as 1) a social protest and disaffection against social class and racism, 2) an expression of shock value for nihilism, anarchism, and vandalism, 3) a meaningful sexual fetishism concerning gender confusion, and 4) an emotion of rage, fear, and alienation among working class youth. One cultural form in a subculture is its 'style.' Costumes, appearances, and accessories such as hair style, make-up, and jewellery were playing an important role in forming a subcultural style. The symbolism of youth subculture was well depicted on their clothing styles, which had influences on Zandra Rhodes's, Body Maps', and Hyper and Hyper's fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.42
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• pp.137-162
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis was twofold. First it explains the emergence of street styles and their inner meanings from its origin subculture group practices. Recent developments in cultural studies which approach cultural practices in a holistic way by incorporating socio-economic background offers us the concept of 'hegemonic relation' it explains why subcultural practices and street style in particular has weakened from 19080s as well as why in the post-subculture period we observe the 'superma-rketization' of styles and plethora of eclecticism instead of original ones. Street styles as a magical expression or resolution of socio-economic frustrations are anticipated to weaken significantly if not totally disappear in the post-modern era although it has become the original texts of high fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.727-738
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• 2020

This study focused on popular YouTube subculture content and male YouTuber characteristics. We conducted a case study on YouTube videos and viewer's comments of male YouTubers who interacted with subculture or fashion themes within YouTube. Based on Dick Hebdige's subculture theory, we categorized male subculture characteristics of style expression to show how YouTube plays a role in the formation of subculture. The representative types of male subculture were divided into metro sexual, adolescent boys, drag queen, and homosexual. YouTube simultaneously played a role in accumulating video viewing as well as indirect experiences in various communication activities and cultures among viewers. YouTube was used as a space for video producers as well as viewers and subscribers to discover and build identity. Subculture makes people aware of cultural diversity within society, and their doubles and lifestyles serve as important clues to track culture and fashion changes. This research is significant in the field of fashion media and subculture research due to its examination of male subculture phenomenon on YouTube based on an analysis of the video content of culture insiders and viewers' comments as well as immediate responses.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.163-179
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• 2012

Among diverse cultural types which can be shown in movie, 'Subculture' is young culture that resist to major culture. It shows its belief and identity via its own style. Their 'Subcultural Style' became popular with mass media and has been affected to major cultures. Therefore, in this research, with times background as postmodernism in end of 20th century and mainly with movie which is about sexual minorities, I analyzed categories of costumes in the movie. Hedwig's rock costume shows combined fashion with hippie, punk, glam, kitsch, goth styles from the impact of postmodernism in mid 20th century. Tommy, showed his relief and defiant intention against old generations with grunge casual and graffiti styles. After he realized Hedwig's identity and showed defiant goth rock style as a famous rocker. The band, "Angry Inch", showed dissatisfaction and cynical attitude against the American society through subculture styles. Through this research, the fact that movie costume used a tool to show human's identity and value. Also, I can see that movie costume shows times and cultural phenomenon in the end of 20th century and through this, it was confirmed that this contributes to crease new fashion style through them.