• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.265-275
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the ease of stretchable jackets which has been common since the mid-1990s and the whole actual conditions in making the lining fabrics. This can be done by investigating the actual conditions of domestic clothes businesses about the consumers. The outcomes of this study are as follows; The result of the survey in the differences of the ease between regular and stretchable fabrics shows that the pattern of designing stretchable fabrics needs diminishing the width of shoulder is 0.42cm, the whole girth chest is 1.83cm, the whole girth of waist is 0.88cm. It also shows that designing the ease of the whole girth of chest is 1.91cm to 2.54cm in the regular lining fabrics and is from 0 to 1.27cm in the stretchable fabrics more than the right side of fabrics. The ease of the whole girth of waist is similar to the round chest, in which the bottom sweep for garment is almost equal to the right side of fabrics in both regular lining fabrics and stretchable fabrics. The result of investigating the actual conditions of making the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics shows that 80% of a woman's wear brand produces and gives the pattern of the lining fabrics only for the special designing to the cooperative clothes manufactures. The business which always provides the patterns for the lining fabrics in the main office is only limited to 20%. Also, it shows that using the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics and regular lining fabrics together is 46.7%, the stretchable lining fabrics is 40% and the regular lining fabrics is 13.3% only.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1038-1052
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze present the pattern making of the lining fabrics calculating the right ease and rising quantities of arm-hole when the pattern of the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics is produced. The outcomes of this study are as follows. The right ease of lining fabrics was not room of 0cm as patterns being same the right side of fabrics in the girth of the chest, waist, and the edge of a garment and gets the most excellent valuation, and then the girth of the chest, and waist was applied to 2cm and around the edge of a garment 0cm in regular lining fabrics. In addition to, although the ease of patterns of the lining fabrics was more, it was not necessarily to satisfy. The result of the valuation according to the quantities of rising arm-hole of the pattern of the lining fabrics showed that the making lining fabrics that the quantities of rising arm-hole was 0.8cm in the body and 1.2cm in the sleeve in the both the stretchable fabrics and regular lining fabrics was the most excellent thing, and then 0cm in the body and 2cm in the sleeve, and then 0cm in the body and 0cm in the sleeve. The valuation of external appearance on the quantities of rising arm-hole was recognized similarly because of being rarely significance level, but around the chest and waist was recognized as being significance level in wearing satisfaction.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.48-57
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examine the inconvenience when putting on stretchable pants and to analyze the whole actual conditions of making of the lining fabrics. For this study, we conducted a survey of women in their twenties and collected the basic data and master pattern through material of a woman's wear brand and the interview and questionnaires. The results of this study were as follows. First, the survey result for the woman consumers it showed that the most uncomfortable problem about the lining of pants was not sufficient stretch as much as the out-shell. Secondly, it was shown that many brands(46.7%) were using the lining fabrics of stretch clothes mixed with 'non-stretch fabrics' and 'stretch fabrics'. The result of lining pattern making for the stretch pants showed that the ease of the lining fabrics was 0 to 4cm in the hip girth more than out-shell. The ease in crotch width was 0 to 1.3cm for lining fabrics. But in the stretch lining fabrics the ease for front crotch width was 0 to 1cm more than out-shell. The lengths of crotch rising were -0.7 to 1.3cm for the non-stretch lining fabrics and -1 to 1cm for the stretch lining fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.35-44
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• 1985

This research explored the effects of abrasion, laundering, and abrasion/laundering interaction upon wear of 15 durable nonwoven fabrics. Wear was measured in terms of changes in tensile strength and stiffness. The test materials consisted of nine different dry-laid commercial interfacing fabrics of various fiber contents and six spunbonded poyester and polypropylene fabrics. Three fixed levels of abrasion and four fixed levels of laundering made up the 3$\times$4 factorial analysis used for the experiment and the analysis of variance. Findings revealed that abrasion had a greater effect than laundering on strength and stiffness of the tested fabrics. Laundering seemed related to the particular fibers used and to the fixation quality of fiber bonds. Spunbonded webs performed better than dry-laid webs in retaining tensile strength Stiffness change occurred more readily than strength change. Lighter, flexible, stretchable fabrics seemed less easily abraded than heavier, stiff, less stretchable fabrics. The interfacing fabrics of 70/20/$10\%$ nylon/polyester/rayon blends with high crosswise stretchability effectively resisted wear caused by abrasion and laundering. Further research is recommended to study the effects of longer abrasion periods and additional laundering cycles o,1 wear qualities of nonwoven fabrics. Additional factors such as amount and fixation methods of bonding agents, the effect of shear distortion, seam construction, and drycleaning solvents could also be studied.

• 한국재료학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.133-137
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• 2011

Gold have been used as an electrode materials having a good mechanical flexibility as well as electrical conductivity, however the stretchability of the gold on a flexible substrate is poor because of its small elastic modulus. To overcome this mechanical inferiority, the reinforcing gold is necessary for the stretchable electronics. Among the reinforcing materials having a large elastic modulus, carbon nanotube (CNT) is the best candidate due to its good electrical conductivity and nanoscale diameter. Therefore, similarly to ferroconcrete technology, here we demonstrated gold electrodes mechanically reinforced by inserting fabrics of CNTs into their bodies. Flexibility and stretchability of the electrodes were determined for various densities of CNT fabrics. The roles of CNTs in resisting electrical disconnection of gold electrodes from the mechanical stress were confirmed using field emission scanning electron microscope and optical microscope. The best mechanical stability was achieved at a density of CNT fabrics manufactured by 1.5 ml spraying. The concept of the mechanical reinforced metal electrode by CNT is the first trial for the high stretchable conductive materials, and can be applied as electrodes materials in various flexible and stretchable electronic devices such as transistor, diode, sensor and solar cell and so on.

• 복식
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• 제58권4호
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• pp.99-112
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• 2008

The aim of the study was to look into the construction methods of historical corsetry and compare them with the construction methods of corsetry today. Through a comparative study, it was concluded that the design, material, sewing and functions of corsetry of a certain period are sum of the clothing techniques and fashion of the time. Corset was first appeared at the end of the 16th century. It has been through many changes in terms of items, materials, patterns, sewing methods in order to make right silhouettes of the time. Now corsetry has been developed into various items such as waist nipper, all-in-one, nipper bra, and girdle. All these items have a common purpose, that is to improve the body shape. The corsetry of the past was made of non stretchable materials, so they used to restrict body movements, and required individual fitting several times. Due to the development of thin durable stretchable fabrics, functional bones, and advanced sewing machines, construction methods of seam, hem and opening are simplified compare to their predecessors. Consequently corsetry became less weighted, easy to wear, easy to wash and easy to mass produce. Yet they have consistency in sewing techniques such as using bones or wires to support bodice shape, using durable twill fabrics over plain for attractive body shapes.

• 복식
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• 제55권6호
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• pp.109-124
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• 2005

The object of this study was to identify the production technique and immediate constituent of lingerie by examining the materials and the sewing techniques. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of lingerie are analyzed based on photographical materials. From the late 20C century to the present time was the research time period. This paper concludes as follows: 1 Decorative method: Lace, Ribbons, piping, elastic bands were some of the decorative materials attached to the garments by zigzag stitch. 2. Flat pattern making: Lingerie patterns were drafted in smaller size than the patterns of outer garments. Bias cut would be applied for the noll-stretchable fabrics. 3. Draping: Bias grain would be applied for the non-stretch fabric. When draping stretch fabrics, follow the grain line of the fabrics and pull the fabric so that it could fit onto the body. 4. Production technique: Straight stitch would be applied for non-stretch fabrics. Zigzag stitch would be applied for stretch fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.325-333
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• 1992

The objectives of this study were 1) to investigate the clothing needs of physically han- dicapped children, 2) to present the basic data to make the slacks patterns which meet the specific needs of physically handicapped children under study. Questionnaires were administered to 38 mothers of handicapped children and the subjects for the wear test were five handicapped children using wheelchair. The fabrics used for slacks wear test were: muslin woven with cotton, stretchable jean woven and double jersey knitted with cotton and polyester fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows: 1) The majority of the handicapped children were wearing ready·made-garments and their mothers considered the fabric elasticity first. 2) The slacks wear test indicated that the slacks ease of 8 cm should be added above the natural waist line in the back for the wheelchair bound children. 3) In a sitting posture on the wheelchair, $3\~4$ cm should be cut below the natural waist line in the front but in a standing posture, $1\~2$ cm should be cut below the natural waist line in the front. 4) The double jersey (cotton/polyester) slacks was highly estimated of ease ana length of slacks in a sitting posture. The stretchable jean (cotton/spandex) slacks was estimated high of appearance but muslin slacks (cotton) was less estimated of ease and appearance of slacks.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

The industry-wide development of digital technologies has also affected the textile and fashion industries immensely. The applications of 3D technology, virtual reality, and/or augmented reality systems have helped to create novel fashion brands based on the marriage of IT and textile/fashion industries. 3D digital virtual clothing systems have been developed to help the textile and fashion industries in terms of the planning, manufacturing, marketing and sales sectors. So far, most of the development effort for the 3d virtual clothing systems has been focused on the woven fabrics. The characteristics of woven fabrics differ from those of knitted fabric. Since the physical structures and mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics are definitely different from those of woven fabrics, the simulation process for the knitted fabrics should follow different approaches. The loops in a knitted fabric deform easily. The deformation results in a readily stretchable fabric appearance. Cloth simulation mostly employs models that approximate the mechanical properties of linear elastic planes. This simulation scheme does not, however, describe well enough the behavior of knitted fabrics, which deviate largely from the linear isotropic material characteristics. This study aims at characterizing the tensile deformation and surface textures of a knitted fabric product. Tensile deformation curves for the wale, course, and bias direction are analyzed. The surface texture of the knitted fabric is analyzed by using a 3-dimensional scanning device.

• 한국생활환경학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.533-540
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• 2017

This study analyzes the stretchability and clothing pressure of fabrics made from stretchy knit materials, and uses the baseline data to develop various functional clothing made from stretchy knit fabrics. To observe the changes in the stretchability and clothing pressure, we observed the compatibility of the two materials (tricot and power-net), presence of flat seam, fabric layering, and flat seam direction as key variables. A standard test method for stretch properties (ASTM D2594) was used for measuring the stretchability of the material. Clothing pressure measurements were analyzed in terms of the mean and standard deviation values, and the correlation of the stretchability. In the case of tricot, the presence of flat seam increased the stretchability of the fabric regardless of the fabric layering. However, when tricot and the less stretchable power-net were combined, the presence of flat seam did not increase the stretchability. Flat seam did not interfere with or limit the stretchability of the fabric, but they did increase the clothing pressure at the seam. The stretchability had a negative correlation with the clothing pressure except along the flat seam.