• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.6
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• pp.1098-1108
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• 2017

This paper investigated stretchability with fabric mechanical properties of one-way and two-way stretch fabrics. For this purpose, 1-way and 2-way woven fabrics were prepared using 150d PET/spandex covered yarns with different thermal treatment according to 4 kinds of wet thermal machines subsequently, fabric mechanical properties were measured and compared with regular PET fabrics. In addition, the garment formability of stretch fabrics was predicted and compared to regular fabrics according to wet thermal treatment. The weft stretchability of 2-way stretch fabric was about 10% higher than the 1-way stretch fabric. The compressibility of the stretch fabrics was 1.5 times higher than regular fabrics. The compressibility of stretch fabrics treated with CPB and rope type wet thermal machine showed higher values than other types of wet thermal machines. The bending rigidity of 2-way stretch fabric was lower than 1-way stretch fabric. Shear rigidity of 2-way stretch fabric was higher than 1-way and regular fabrics. Garment formability of 2-way stretch fabric was higher than regular and one-way stretch fabrics. Garment formability of 2-way stretch fabrics treated with wet thermal conditions under low tension showed the highest values.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.83-92
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• 2018

This paper investigated garment formability and fabric mechanical properties of one-way and two-way stretch fabrics according to the thermal treatment methods. One-way and two-way stretch fabrics were woven using 75d and 150d PET/spandex covering yarns and then these were wet thermal treated with four kinds of finishing machines. The fabric mechanical properties of these stretch fabrics specimens were measured and compared with the regular PET fabrics. The stretch ratio of one-way stretch fabric was ranged 12 to 26 percentage, 15 to 45 percentage for 2-way stretch fabrics and 4 to 10 percentage for regular fabrics. Garment formability of stretch fabric was superior than that of regular fabrics, in addition, 2-way stretch fabric was better than one-way. The garment formability of the stretch fabrics treated with CPB and Lava wet thermal machines showed the highest values, and the stretch ratio of these 2-way stretch fabrics was also the highest, which was ranged 20 to 45 percentage. This phenomenon was assumed to be due to high extensibility and bending rigidity with low shear modulus of the 2-way stretch fabric treated with CPB and Lava wet thermal machines. It was shown that the garment formability of stretch fabrics treated without dry thermal treatment was higher than that of dry thermal treated fabrics. It revealed that high stretch fabric was available under the condition of low process tension in the wet and dry thermal treatments of the finishing process, which makes high garment formability.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1467-1477
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• 2002

This study was investigated physical properties of stretch fabrics by KES-FB system to show suitable basic data to making skirts of excellent capacity and develop more organized basic skirt pattern by fitness evaluation. 1. The results of T. H. V.(Total Hand Value) were as followa: In the kind of blending fiber, cotton/spandex was more excellent than nylon/spandex and polyester/spandex, in the direction of stretch, one-way(weft inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandex and cotton/spandex were higher than two-way(warp and wet inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandes and cotton/spandex, two-way nylon/spandex was higher than one-way nylon/spandex. 2. The results of calculating the variance between sample stretch fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics after standardizing were as follows: Stretch fabrics has 2 range of tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness and weight as compared with Jpanese s/s women's suit fabrics. In the tensile property, one-way stretch fabrics were almost the same with Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics, only two-way polyester/spandex had+1～+2 range. In the bending, shear property, there was no difference between sample fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics 3. In the total fitness of the skirt, nylon/spandex is the best in the fabrics and one-way stretch fabric is better than two-way strethch fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.48-57
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examine the inconvenience when putting on stretchable pants and to analyze the whole actual conditions of making of the lining fabrics. For this study, we conducted a survey of women in their twenties and collected the basic data and master pattern through material of a woman's wear brand and the interview and questionnaires. The results of this study were as follows. First, the survey result for the woman consumers it showed that the most uncomfortable problem about the lining of pants was not sufficient stretch as much as the out-shell. Secondly, it was shown that many brands(46.7%) were using the lining fabrics of stretch clothes mixed with 'non-stretch fabrics' and 'stretch fabrics'. The result of lining pattern making for the stretch pants showed that the ease of the lining fabrics was 0 to 4cm in the hip girth more than out-shell. The ease in crotch width was 0 to 1.3cm for lining fabrics. But in the stretch lining fabrics the ease for front crotch width was 0 to 1cm more than out-shell. The lengths of crotch rising were -0.7 to 1.3cm for the non-stretch lining fabrics and -1 to 1cm for the stretch lining fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.111-114
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• 2005

In this the study, polyester/cotton(P/C) blended fabrics with fine denier were developed to get the light weight compared with the traditional P/C blended fabrics. Moreover, the width of the fabrics was extended by the tenter during the final heat treatment to get the lower fabric density and lighter weight. Then, the physical properties of these fabrics were analysed. The results were as the follows: The developed fabrics had 22.6-31.6% lighter weight than the traditional fabrics with the same fabric width. The weight of fabric decreased drastically with the fabrics width down to 67.1 $g/m^2$. The fabric density for the warp direction decreased with the fabric width. The tenacity and the elongation of the developed fabrics was little lower than that of the traditional fabrics. The air permeability of the developed fabrics increased with that of the traditional fabrics. The stretch rate of the developed fabrics decreased with increasing the fabric width. Residual stretch rate of the developed fabrics was more stable than that of the traditional fabrics. Residual stretch rate of the developed fabrics increased with the fabric width, but the highest value was less than 5% which is quit stable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Industry Convergence
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.149-154
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to develop the High Functional Stretch Yarns and Woven Fabrics to produce the high value added textile goods and to meet the consumer's needs. For the study 8 yarns and 10 fabrics were made with three develop machine and the thermal-stress properties of the sample were tested and analysed. The result indicated that the sample fabrics kept their stretch performance regardless of conventional process. EDY(elastic DTY) had higher stretch than that of DTY(drawn textured yarn). Especially Macel yarn had higher stretch than that of DTY compared with the same condition of yarn. With time course behavior the elongation of DTY and EDY had stabled tendency without variation. The above results show that wearing sensation and comfort properties of fabrics are changed depending on the end-use. and thus, above results can be used to manufacture of fabrics for specific end-use with high comfort properties.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.135-144
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wearing sensation and satisfaction of high school girls winter uniform' jacket. The subject participated in the study were 599 high school girls attending four different schools. The fabrics were divided into two parts of stretch and non-stretch woven fabrics. The results were as follows: 1. The high school girls showed body image distortion that she recognized herself as fatter than her real body type. Especially, this was severe in the slim body type. 2. In the aspect of the satisfaction for uniforms' jacket made with stretch fabric and non-stretch woven fabric. the elastic fabric was more satisfied than the non-stretch one because its width and length was shorter and fitter than non-stretch one. 3. When they wore the school uniform jacket, the wearing sensation of one made with stretch and non-stretch woven fabrics showed significant differences in arms hole when raising hands, front bust when carrying backpack on their back, backs while studying at desks, the upper arms and the elbows. 4. As for the alteration of school uniform jacket, the non-stretch woven fabric was appeared to be altered more than the stretch one.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.160-167
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• 2002

Stretch fabrics are wide-spread for high performance clothing use with requirements of fitness and adaptability to human's movement. A newly developed 100% PET high stretch fabric has excellent properties with respect to stretch, softness, bulkiness, and apparent volume compared to PET filament fabrics. The 100% PET high stretch fabric shows advantages of a dimensional stability, dye and agent adaptability in dying and finishing process, a property of stretch recovery after washing and lower production cost than that of spandex fabric. KES-FB was used to measure mechanical properties to various directions of the fabric. This study centered on whether the 100% PET high stretch fabric is suitable to quality and shape retention of fabric by testing several properties including tensile, compression, shear, bending and surface characteristic to various measuring directions. Tensile linearity showed maximum value at $0^{\circ}$ in plain and $90^{\circ}$ in twill. Shear Stiffness of plain and twill showed maximum value equally at $45^{\circ}\;and\;135^{\circ}$. Bending rigidity showed maximum value at $0^{\circ}$ in plain and $45^{\circ}$ twill. Mean deviation of MIU showed maximum value at $0^{\circ}\;and\;90^{\circ}$ in plain and $135^{\circ}$ in twill.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.53-58
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• 2003

The stretch fabrics were made by the use of PTT[Poly(trimethylene terephthalate)] fibers and changes in their physical properties were analysed. Tenacity and elongation of D-1(PTT DTY) yarn were 3.32 g/d and 50.4%, respectively, while these of D-2(PTT+CDP DTY) yarn were 2.46 g/d and 32.1%, respectively. The tenacity of PTT-1 and PET-1 fabrics was similar, but the elongation of PTT-1 and PET-1 fabrics was 75% and 44%, respectively. Thus, the elongation of PTT-1 fabric was two times higher than those of PET-1 fabric. In addition, the elastic recovery at 20% elongation of PTT-1, PTT-2 and PET-1 fabric was 85.0%, 80.5% and 60.0%, respectively, indicating that so PTT-1 fabric showed better elastic recovery. The light, wash, and abrasion fastness of PTT-1 and PTT-2 fabrics were above Grade 3, Grade 4-5, and Grade 4-5, respectively. Therefore, there was little effect of substance on the fastness.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.433-446
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• 2001

Recently, according to changes in fashion trends, the importance of stretch fabric stands out. A lot of studies on non-stretch woven fabrics have been made, but few studies on stretch fabrics has been made yet. Especially, the study on ease for the patterns, according to body types, of stretch has not been made at all. The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to standard body type to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0㎝ and W-1㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+2㎝ and H+0㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as follows. W+0㎝, H+2㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.0∼4.6% of waist, 2.1∼4.3% of hip for standard body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For standard body type, W+0㎝, W-1㎝ for waist and H+2㎝, H+0㎝ for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern.