• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.111-126
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to understand the gender-neutral phenomenon, to grasp the flow of design, and to seek the future direction of modern fashion design. As for the scope and method of the study, this study was performed based on relevant literature. In terms of visual data, website photos were collected from the collection of S/S in 2016 to F/W in 2020. To assess the properties of the gender-neutral, analysis was implemented on the results after arranging the factors for gender neutrality and the characteristics suggested in the related papers. The fashion-related expert group analyzed the properties of the gender-neutral style from 1,031 pictures, where the gender-neutral style of fashion design collections was applied. As a result of the analysis, the characteristics of the gender-neutral were analyzed and divided into the extended body-positive performance style, the mashup style- respecting the conflicting culture, the street style of coexisting genders, and the fluid style of changing directions. In this study, the attributes were derived as acceptability, playfulness, and sustainability. Accordingly, it is expected that this study will play a fundamental role in the creative fashion design development and unfolding of the fashion industry and fashion designers.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.110-126
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• 1997

This dissertation intended to investigate the black color as a fashion color of the late 20th century and the aesthetic consciousness of black fashion. Black usually expressed a negative meaning, and was regarded as a color for a mourning and a sacred dress in western culture. There found several periods of black trend specially after 14th century. Black was considered as a traditional color of men's fashion since Dandyism. By the effect of art d co fashion, the perception toward black changed to a new beauty in 20th century. There continuously found a lot of aspects of black fashion in the late 20th century. In the high fashion, popularity of black, could be seen at five different look and style : The era of line alphabet, pantaloons suit style, folklore style, mannish look and unconstructive design by Japanese, and in street fashion, it showed at four different style and fashion: Beat style, mods and rockers style, punk fashion and fetish fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of black fashion at the late 20th century mentioned above should be summarized as follows. : Minimalism, dandyism, nihilism, asceticism, eroticism. In 1990s, the black appeared under the retro mood, and it should be regarded specially as one fashion trend of inclination of simplicity. Black should be called the representative color of 20th century fashion with the reason of containing the most of aesthetic consciousness in modern fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.116-127
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• 2002

The hip-hop fashion of the nineteens is just as important in hip-hop as in rapping, breaking, or graffitiwriting to young people. Hip-hop fashions major influences range from martial-arts moves, to street-gang uniforms and paraphernalia. Hip-hop fashion grew and evolved with the subculture. The identification with street-gang culture is important to hip-hop in general and still set the pace for hip-hop fashion. There are things that are necessary fashion components for each segment of hip-hop life. So even prisons are now selling prison clothes. Explaining the look, The rawest street element is a jail element, so the strongest statement is a uniform with shirts and trousers that match perfectly, like a jail piece. Insiders can detect the away of gang and prison culture on the iconography of seemingly innocuous brands. Hip-hop glam is part of an evolution of hip-hop style. Rap's gone luxe, and it is women who are leading the high-fashion charge. They wear in diamonds and fur. Now it is a very glam. Now, many brands are upping their marketing activities through a focus on their women's lines in advertising, and featuring hot celebrities. There is also a lot of rethinking of looks going on. Sexy and tight is emerging as the style of choice in this market and fabrications are becoming more important, as designers refine and upgrade their women's line. The clothes of hip-hop glam were the ordinary with the extraordinary: Designer fur and leather with athletic team jerseys, Nike sneakers, diamond bracelets and mall brands like Guess and Fubu. The hip-hop musician's sporty hip-hop looks has amply young people. The hip-hop looks of baggy jeans, oversized shirts and rugged outerwear have become a part of mainstream fashion. Hip-hop fashion has the characteristics of being sporty. In the 90s, Military look has got one of the fashionable hip-hop fashion style. It does not have inner symbolic meaning or ideology but it only represents a fashion trend and revival fashion. Not only fashion designer but also hip-hop musician selected the trend for hip-hop fashion style.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.879-891
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• 2007

빠른 유행변화와 긴 제조과정으로 인하여 패션업계에서 유행예측은 매우 중요한 과업이며,성공의 열쇠가 된다. 따라서 예측된 스타일이 소비자들에게 수용되어 유행되는 과정은 학문적으로나 산업적으로 매우 중요한 주제이다. 이 연구는 해외 콜렉션에서 예측된 유행스타일들이 한국시장에서 어떻게 수용되는지를 알아보고자 여성복 해외 콜렉션 자료와 서울의 스트리트패션 자료를 02 s/s 시즌부터 05 s/s 시즌까지 7시즌에 걸쳐 비교하였다. 해외 콜렉션 자료는 전문 패션잡지인 Fashion Show에서 수집하였으며, 스트리트 패션자료는 서울패션디자인센터의 자료를 사용하였다. 그 결과 우리나라는 해외 콜렉션에서 나타난 전반적인 트렌드를 잘 수용하고 있으며 특히 이 기간 동안은 스포티 스타일과 페미닌 스타일이 크게 유행하였던 것으로 나타났다. 그러나 해외 콜렉션에서 나타난 스타일이 그대로 수용되기보다는 변형되거나, 일부만이 수용되는 경우가 더 많았으며 이것은 한국사회의 특성과 대량생산에 기인한 것으로 사료된다. 또한 해외 콜렉션에서 제시된 스타일들 중 한국에서는 거의 수용되지 않은 경우도 있었으며, 한편 한국에서만 나타난 스타일과 아이템들도 있었다. 이 연구는 해외 콜렉션 자료를 주 정보원으로 사용하는 국내 의류업체들의 상품기획에 좋은 가이드라인을 제공하고 있으며, 또한 한국 패션시장의 특성을 이해하는데 도움이 되는 실증적인 연구로 의의가 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권8호
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• pp.1275-1287
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• 2006

This was to confirm the Web-SFAS and street Fashion trend 2005. Korea women's street fashion in 2005 S/S was analyzed by using the Web-SFAS(Street Fashion Analysis System) that was developed and completed in the earlier research. Total 270 women who were sensitive to the fashion were surveyed around in 5 nationwide cities and 9 commercial zones. The analysis results of the questionnaire and image survey in 2005 S/S for each commercial zone is shown as follows: 1. The sequence of care with most interest in producing fashionable shape is in the order of clothes>accessory>hair style>make up>shoes, and it was found that the proper reason for visiting the commercial zone is to meet with friends than shopping. 2. Most preferred item for tops were shirts and T-shirts, while for bottoms were blue jeans of denim material in various colors and designs. The color had the clear winner in white color with the pink or yellow line of colors preferred in all commercial zones. The blue jeans and skirt items were the most dominant with the preference on the blue color. The color and image were diversely favored with light, natural, modern, elegance and warm images. 3. The semi-formal image was preferred in women's street fashion, 2005 S/S in Apgujeong-dong, Hapseong-dong, Myeong-dong, Hongik University area, Dongseong-ro, and the active comfort casual image was preferred by womens in Seo-myeon, Nampo-dong and Sangnam-dong. However the retro image were represented in Daehak-ro specially. The tendency of street fashion for women had the difference of their own trends for each commercial zone, rather then the regional differences for each city with the conspicuous preference of color for the items.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.967-983
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to review Hanliu phenomenon, a kind of social and cultural phenomenon, in China and to analyze its effects on the fashion style of new young generation of China. In this study, Hanliu phenomenon means the enthusiasm of Asian people for Korean mass culture including Korean dramas, pop songs, and fashions from late 1990s. This research adopts two kinds of methods for analyzing the phenomenon: qualitative and quantitative research methods. As a qualitative research method, we analyzed it with several sources of documentaries and audio-visual materials: articles from newspapers and magazines, special TV reports, and documentary movie files from Internet. As a quantitative research method, we surveyed approximately 100 female students of Beijing university and asked how they feel Korean culture and fashions. The Hanliu phenomenon led to the popularity of Korean products as well as general culture of Korea. Also, it influenced Chinese young generation so much that Korean fashion has become prevailing. Such influence on the street fashion of Chinese youths can be summarized in three factors as follows: First, Korean entertainers' fashion is widely imitated. For example, H.O.T-like hairstyles, hip-hop styles, large heel shoes with boots-cut pants, and long-curled permanent hairstyles have been on among Chinese youths. Second, the preference for Korean fashion products has highly increased. The number of stores dealing with Korean fashion products has increased. Even the 'Kim Hee Seen,' a fashion brand named after a famous Korean actress, was introduced. Finally, Korean culture and products have widely been imitated in China as much as the increasing popularity of Korean fashion products. This study reveals that Hanliu phenomenon is widespread in China, and Chinese youths are largely affected by the fashion styles of Korean entertainers. Also, Korean fashion products are largely imitated and benchmarked in China. Hanliu phenomenon is a big chance to approach the fashion market of China, the largest buying power in the world. To make inroads into the Chinese fashion market, we suggest that we need to have our own brand and to make the most of culture, stars, and Internet in marketing. Also, we need a well-planned strategy for a success in the Chinese fashion market.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.493-504
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• 2022

This study aims to gain a deeper understanding of the fashion styles of underground rappers in China and South Korea. Due to rappers' fashion influence on modern fashion trends, research on rapper fashion has been conducted steadily in the field of apparel. Qualitative research methodologies including literature research and in-depth interviews were the primary techniques used to solve the research questions. In-depth interviews were conducted with 10 Chinese underground rappers and 10 Korean underground rappers to reveal and explore their fashion style and view of fashion. As a result, the participants' fashion styles were categorized into four styles: authentic hip-hop fashion style, popularized hip-hop fashion style, easy sports casual style, and trendy street style. Rappers from both countries consider that their identity as rappers can be demonstrated through their hip-hop fashion style. The influence of hip-hop culture and the popularity of rap music differs between China and Korea. It affects not only the rapper's musical characteristics, but also their fashion style. While Korean underground rappers' fashions style is trendier, Chinese underground rappers' fashions style displays stronger characteristics of hip-hop fashion. Due to the public's negative view of rappers, some Korean underground rappers intentionally try to hide their identity by wearing a fashion style that differs from the authentic rapper image. Understanding the fashion styles of underground rappers in Korea and China is expected to assist in predicting future hip-hop culture and rapper fashion trends.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.33-45
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• 2003

This is a study that examines the fashion changes in the 20th century in terms of various subcultures in the period. Starting from defining the concept and the developing process of subculture, this study traces the history of subcultural styles from 1930s to 1990s, focusing on the way each generation resisted the main stream through its styles. This study is intended to provide a theoretical frame on the understanding of subcultural styles, with a close examination of its formative and developing process and characteristics. This study understands subcultural style as a way of deviate or resistant expression within a society. It differentiates itself from the main style by deliberately and publicly asserting its own identity, and, as a result, realizes in the form of fashion its repressed subconsciousness, resistance to the alienation from the society, and deviation from the normative ethics and morality of a society. The four types of subcultural styles presented in chapter 4 are based on their form of resistance, and they are classified and analyzed as follows: The first type is revision, which tries to revise and change the given form by adding new elements. There are two kinds of revision, one is dressing up, which dresses for success, and the other is minimal dressing. Hyperbole is the second type, which resists by emphasizing or hyperbolizing the main stream with its erotic, nihilistic, or dynamic forms. Two kinds of hyperbole are examined, one is hyperbole of masculinity, and the other is ostentatious hyperbole. The third type is reversal and rejection, which reverses the forms from the established sign system into its own secret code, or rejects the traditional taboos. This type include no dressing, and the reversal of sex identity. Isolation and redrawal is the fourth type, which tries to distance itself from the ritual code of the day. This type is divided into dressing of the escape from time, and dressing of the escape from space. The first group of this type is characterized by nostalgia or futurism. An emphasis is given on ethnicity, naturalism, or a closed space within a city in dressing of the escape from space. In conclusion, it can be said that subcultural style puts the foremost importance on individual freedom. Since 1990s, the distinction between the subcultural styles and high fashion gets somewhat blurred, while the liberal, sexual, life stylistic tension between the two groups are heightened.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2002년도 International Costume Conference
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• pp.83-83
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• 2002

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.79-92
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• 2013

This article explores 1940's fashion. Much has been documented about the huge influence Dior's 1947 New Look had on fashionable clothing, as the industry conspired to reinvent itself as an economic and cultural power after World War II. The introduction of highly feminised and luxurious styles reinstated fashion as a viable concern globally and has arguably been recognised as the defining style of the 1940's. During World War II the fashion system of design, manufacture and export within the western world, virtually ceased. Many dress historians (Arnold, 2008; Breward, 1997; Guenther, 2004; McDowell, 1997; Robinson, 1976; Taylor, 1992; Steele, 1998; Veillon, 2002; Walford, 2008; Wilson & Taylor; 1989) have suggested that fashion ideas froze from 1939 to 1947. Deeper research identifies that during this period of style and trend starvation, many diverse and interesting design ideas arose from the restrictions imposed and Veillon (2002, p.145), has suggested that this period instigated what we now identify as Street Style (Polhemus, 2010). This research investigates the diversity of design ideas produced between 1939-1947 in order to establish whether pre or post 1947 can be upheld as the definitive 1940's look, one that influences contemporary fashion designers and one that we identify with as a conclusive style today.