• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.29-47
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• 1995

Today, we live in the fastly changing society, rapidly developing scientific civilization and repeatly confusing political culture. Therefore, man persuits the emotional rest in "eros" and sympathizes with eroticism. Such an eroticism represents too much in art and costume all over the world. the purpose of this study is to classify the ex-pressive style of eroticism which is the feature of the costume in the first year of 1990's and to analyze its expression meaning. This study will be a basic data of new design development and help predict the costume in the latter half of the yeat. The method of this study was performed by using the literature related to the eroticism and the study of preceeding researchers. To analyze the costume style the its implied meaning being used to express the eroticism of 1990's, the magazines(Elle, Vogue, WWD, Collections etc) and the literatures related to fashion were used. The styles and meaning of eroticism expressed eroticism by using the minimal design which exposes wholly or partly by using a transparent vinyl and a see-through clothing. The sexy style arose from the expression of social rebellion and the exposure of suppressive sex as a psychological repulsion against the older generation. 2) Deshabille style : This style is the conver-sion to the outer garment of an underwear. The excessive exposure which just concerns the inti-mate parts of the body by using the thin cloth or lace for an underwear. This style can be recognized as the beauty destruction and ugly 3) Glamour style : The style is made up of the high-grade cloth such as silk and velvet and expresses the bodily beauty. This style falls into a rebellious culture and comes from the inten-tional expression to escape the modern life which is straight and hard. 4) metallic style : This style uses variously the new material such as vinyl-coating, enamel and represents the eroticism through the original expressions.pressions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.157-165
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• 1998

In Koryo Dynasty Pyonbokpo(便服抱) was worn by both sexes. There were four styles that was Yosunchollic, Dappo, Pol, Poll, of the men's Pyonbokpo(便服抱). Double breast style (重据形) was used for the adjustments of these clothes. Neckline and he-m line were substituted by rectangular collar (목판깃). The width and length of sleeves in Yosunch-ollic was tighter and shorter as general Po. Coat-string (Okgolum), side slit were used. Feminine Pyonbokpo (便服抱) had usually same style of men's one. There was one was back longer than front length. They wore it with or without a belt. Knot-button, Coat-string (Okgolum), White straight collar (DongJung), side slit were used.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.219-235
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• 1981

Jik-Ryoung was originally desinged to be worn by lower-class people in the reign of King Woo(A.D 1387, Goryeo) when official dresses and headgear were redsigned according to Ming's (明) style. It was observed that Jik-Ryoung was the same Po(袍) as Dan-Ryoung(團領) except its straight collar. Nowadays we can find through documents and original forms of Jik-Ryoung itself that Jik-Ryoung prevailed from the beginning to the end of the Yi Dynasty. Lower class people wore this coat until King Sejo(世祖), but from that time the Jik-Ryoung could be worn only by the Noble class as street clothes and home wear as well. Middle class people wore this coat as an office wear. Its style had changed from narrow sleeves and Moo (무, a reinforcing cloth strip) at the beginning to widers and Moo after the middle years of the Dynasty and finally fixed its style to sewing upper parts of Moo together. While red, white, and blue were the common colors, silk, hemp, cotton, and ramie were preferred materials to be made of.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.25-37
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• 1981

Art Nouveau style refers to the movement of art which was started in France and Belgium in the last decade of the 19th and the early years of the 20th century. The distinguishing characteristics of Art Nouveau style are the sensous sinuosity of its line, nervously undulating, curving over itself, rhythmical, flowing in endless patterns, which are inspired by animals and plants, specially by flowers, leaves, long stalks. The Art Nouveau style includes also the extreme simplicity of form, and asymmetric design. This new trend of art movement spread into architecture, furniture, wall papers, graphic design, accessories and textiles. In this paper, I tried to find out whether or not the Art Nouveau style had an effect on clothing. Because I believe clothing, like architecture, painting, and sculpture, is an Art form that derives from a particular set of cultural circumstances and reflects the needs and aspirations of the society for which it is created. Fashions in clothing over the last five thousand years have mirrorred the art form as well as the spirit. The result of this study shows that the Art Nouveau style made a lasting contribution to the modernism of clothing as well as architecture and interior design at the end of 19th century and the early years of the 20th century. The modernism of clothing appeared in the straight silhouette, asymmetric design, simple and light trimming, embroidery with Art Nouveau pattern, and stylized flower design in textile. Art Nouveau made a great contribution toward the modern clothing to have its liveliness and its harmonious relationship between clothing design and the use of materials.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.511-528
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out comparison of preference style and wearing style of pants and skirt by body perception and satisfaction. This research was done by a survey method. Descriptive Statistics, Coefficients MANOVA, Two-Way ANOVA, t-test and Duncan＇s test were used for data analysis. The results of this study are as follows. 1) The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about waist girth prefer high waist pants. The subjects with longer waist wear high waist pants. The subjects with wider hips wear narrow down pants. The subjects with the thickest thighs prefer narrow pants but wear narrow down pants. The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about calf thickness prefer narrow pants but wear wide pants. The subjects with the highest satisfaction about leg length prefer and wear calf length pants. The subjects with the thinnest calves prefer and wear tight pants. 2) The subjects with the thickest thighs prefer straight skirt but wear narrow down skirt. The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about thigh thickness wear A-line skirt.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.141-155
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to arrange the korean women's hair styles of the beginning of 21st century and make hair style image making chart to use personal image making consulting data through analyze actress hair styles of broadcasting TV drama. To accomplish this purposes, picked up the two most popular dramas per each broadcasting stations, KBS1, KBS2, MBC, SBS, in february 2004. and analyzed and arranged hair styles of actress and at the last made the hair style image making chart. The results of the research are as belows. 1. Hair trends of february 2004. were Modern Sophisticated, Active and Romantic. 2. The results of three classifications of hair style trends, form, color, accessory, were as belows. 1) Form : Layer, left part, straight, low wave, long hair, no volme, bang were in vogue. Generally, Modern Sophisticated, Active, Romantic feeling were in vogue. 2) Color : Black, brown, two tone color were in vogue. Generally Modern Sophisticated, Romantic, Active feeling were in vogue. 3) Accessory : Hair bands & pins were in vogue. Generally these gave the Modern, Active feeling. 3. Hair style image making chart manufacturing depends on fashion feeling. 1) Classification of feeling, 2) Analysis of form, 3) Analysis of color, 4) Hair style image making chart manufacturing depends on fashion feeling This research will be a historical data of korean women's hair styles of the beginning of 21st century & can be used the basic data of personal hair style image making consulting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.137-154
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women's status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1910's, ideal beauty has changed to H-style. In other words, the outer garment has confined the lower part of the body with plain H-type Hobble silhouette to express plump bust, somewhat slim waist, and small hips, As the underwears, cylindrical corsets which fasten from under the bust down to lap, brassiere which are helpful for plump bust, and artificial busts were worn. In 1920's, outer garment were Straight box silhouette style which were cut as tubular without dart, and the underwears were corselets which have been tubular from the bust to hip and the tubular chemi-knickers. The former corsets which had been hard-boned and been fastened with strings have been replaced by the hook closure due to the development of elastic joining method. In 1930's, women pursued perfect body showing the line of bust, waist, and hip. In order to express elegant beauty of female of Slim and long silhouette, Doter and underwear have been cut with bias and gore, and soft and flexible materials were flowed along the body. World war II in 1940's has made the women as social. Ideal beauty has changed to Short straight box silhouette which no more shows body line. Outer and underwears were simple and Practical style. In 1950's, ideal beauty was well-matured, elegant Women which were represented by round shoulder, conical breast, tiny waist and round hip. Outer garment showed Hourglass silhouette representing the body-tight suits with round shoulder pad and the wide flare skirts. As the underwears, conical brassiere by top circular stitch were preferred for plump and bulged bust and tight corsets for tiny waist and magnificent petticoats were worn.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.11 s.158
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• pp.1636-1647
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to provide data that can be used to suggest idealistic anchor's image to capture ratings for the news program and to suggest guide for casting and training anchors for the broadcasting stations by examining the idealistic looks and images of TV news anchors by asking the general viewers who watch TV, The research methods was questionnaire survey. The subjects were 839 male and female audiences in theire 20's and 40's who residing in Seoul and Gyeonggi area. The study results are as follows: 1) The factors that decide impression of a female anchor The factors that decide female anchor's impression were 'specialty factor, friendliness factor, elegance factor, dynamic factor, and attractiveness factor'. 2) The difference in formation of impression according to makeup and hair style of a female anchor In case of specialty and friendliness factors scored high when putting on natural makeup, dynamic factors scored high when putting on elegant makeup, and attractiveness factor when putting on natural and romantic makeup. All factor were high when a female anchor had short-cut style and straight hair 3) Formation of anchor's impression from makeup and hair style according to the perceiver's variables (gender and age) Male and female audiences both gave hish score for a female anchor's specialty such as 'confident and reliable' and friendliness such as 'warm and comfortable' when a female anchor puts on natural makeup. They gave high score for attractiveness factor such as' good impression and refined' when putting on romantic makeup and high score for dynamic factor such as 'positive and confident' when putting on elegant makeup. Both male and female audiences gave high score fur all except friendliness factor when a female anchor had short-cut style compared to bobbed hair and high score far specialty factor when a female anchor had straight hair. The audiences both in their 20's and 40's gave high score for specialty and friendliness when a female anchor put on natural makeup while the perceivers at their 20's gave high score for elegance and dynamic factor when a female anchor put on elegant makeup. The audiences both in their 20's and 40's gave high score for all factors when female anchor had short-cut hair.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.1-20
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• 2009

The main investigation of this thesis is about the comparative analysis of the fashion style preferences in the ages of 20-30 women, according to the style, by researching the area of Dalian and Seoul, represented as outstanding fashion cities in north eastern area. Both taking pictures and recording camcoders were performed at the famous fashion street in Seoul and Dalian. The period of investigation was from 24th of July to 2nd of August 2008. The result of research are as follows. Generally, the casual style was predominant in both area. The jean casual in Seoul was somewhat tidy and conservative, while that in Dalian showed the tendency of boldly exposed their body. In terms of easy casual, T-shirts and mini-tight skirt were preferred in Seoul, while T-shirts and midi-flare skirt was popular in Dalian. In Seoul, the blouse and mini skirt were in vogue, while one-piece dress, blouse and 5/7/9 length pants were prevalent in Dalian, in case of romantic style. The sports casual was relatively low in frequency in both areas, however, it was relatively more popular in Dalian than in Seoul. The frequency of classic style was similar in both areas. The T-shirts/blouse and Chanel-line skirt were preferred in Seoul, while the combination of jacket/shirts and full-length straight pants were preferred in Dalian. The one-piece dress was predominant in feminine style, the combination of mini one-piece dress and shoulder bag prevalent in Seoul, while the combination of Chanel-line one-piece dress designed as boldly exposed body was popular in Dalian, which shows the tendency of sexy, feminine style. The clear contrast or differences of street styles in Seoul and Dalian would become evident by this research. The continuous investigations into the various regions of China would be expected as an important measure for the successful launching into the Chinese fashion market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.239-255
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• 1998

Art deco means decorative form on the base of cubism which has widely spread from 1910's to 1930's. Also it pursued the rational & functional design even than deecoration of art nouvear, and colorful combination of fauvism. The analytical study on design included occurrence, developing process and formative features expressed in the art deco fashion. The changes of the art deco style, it referred to the fashion illustration which was the Graphic-s of Ert in 19 century. Besides analysised activity designer in the art deco style, at the same time considered fashion design as comparable analysis. Paul Poiret, a representative french designer, contributed to the clothing culture which accepted oriental influence and it was all the fashion enough to call the originator of present fashion. He did away with the corset, relaxed the waistline, and freed the body from clothing constrictions of almost a hundred years. Since 1914, because of industry of woman clothing that art deco represent concern of one's Chanel's perennial rival in the firmanent of parisian high fashion was the Italian designers, Elsa Schiaparelli, Schiaparelli's originalily was profoundly influenced by the avant-garde art of the time ; Da da and Surealism were principal soures of new ideas. It apply the style to geometrical or abstract form impressed straight and smooth line on suitable technic. Such inflection of art deco heralded a close collaboration between the artist-jeweller and the fashion industry. Especially, jewelry designers were fond of juxtaposing transparent faceted stoned which reflected the light, with matt stones, which offered rare or unconventional contrasts through their opacity. Consequently, art deco will exert value of utility for the progressive fashion & jewel CAD through continuous research.