• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.9 no.3
• /
• pp.371-382
• /
• 2000

Fashion, a means of communication, is the symbol conveying the social information and the individual identity. The opulence of material and the development of civilization make the sign of fashion variable and individual; especially, The importance of hair style among the today's sign of fashion, as a determinant element in judging each person's look is emphasized. Kitsch, based on the variety and the individuality is the manner of art in diverse hobbies. In addition, it enlarges the sphere of modern an, creates new open aesthetic world. Therefore, we need to understand the symbol of Kitsch aestetic represented in hair style, which is meaningful. The method of this study is quality analysis by means of semiology, aesthetics, Fashion artical, magazine, atc. To support this statement, we will study the form, a primary symbol, and the ideology, a secondly one in $\ulcorner$Mythologies$\lrcorner$ of Roland Bartes(1972). Then by means of the form and the ideology, we will try to recognize the myth, an essential symbol. The result of this study is following like these three points. First, the Kitsch patterns of representation in hair style use the accumulation by an excessive ornamentation; the inappropriateness by the lack of form, the disagreement, the unbalance, and the nonfunctional form; and finally, the amusement by the reconstruction, the exotic, and the satire. The above three is true to the Barthes's primary symbol-the form. Second, the anti-traditionality(including the lack of form, the disagreement, and the unbalance), the homesickness(including the reconstruction and the exotic), and the eclecticism(including the parody and the mixed imitation) are created as the ideology of the liberal artistic notion, different from the past outlooks on aesthetic. This is true to the Barthes's secondly symbol-the ideology. Third, the form and the ideology enable us to express our own thoughts and to recover the humanity, which is the primary purpose of Kitsch aesthetic. The Kitsch hair style, as we witness, does lead the varied and liberal aesthetic world, create its accessible value, and place the art of hair style in a higher status.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.9 no.6
• /
• pp.56-70
• /
• 2005

This study investigates historically difference by age of wig banishments that symbolize social-economic status from West Egypt era baroque age as qualitative study that use secondary bibliographic data, there is purpose. Conclusion of this study is as following. Because wig putting on that symbolize among several usages of wig putting on, socio-economic status until 17th century baroque age from ancient Egypt is been in fashion through privilege class lower classes as well as upper class wig putting on attain. Ancient wig putting on became measure that divide class because differ material of wig or one dimension, shape (style) and length became linear measure that it can aim wealth's emblem that putting on of long wave wig and whole wig that differ lust has many wig though was in fashion though whole wig and were in fashion arriving to Renaissance. That it becomes France clean fingernails' necessaries as Louis the 14th that ready crux of absolute authority establishment of France Court put wig from depilation to count 17 was clear socio-economic status etc. symbol measure inclination. Go without question status or position, wealth and churchman puts wig so that can know special sex of weapon of where the soldiers are belonged as well as put wig and wig putting on was parted according to job and lower classes participated in fashion of wig putting on. Wig putting on that become measure that symbolize job or status in this baroque age, position, wealth etc. gave absolute influence in wig fashion in 18th century.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.3 no.4
• /
• pp.337-343
• /
• 2001

This study was purposed to see how men's hair styles of Japan had changed throughout history and results of the study was as follows. There are such evidences as topknots in its primitive styles and wooden combs that several hair styles were tried already in the primitive Jomon Period. In the Yayoi period, bare topknot style without crowns and Mizura style in which hair drop down both ears were popular. In the period of ancient burial mounds, Mizura style was dominative style and varied its form and shape according to classes and status. In the Aska and Nara era, topknot-in-the-crown style in which hair bound in one as in continental style and put in crown or hood, which style was influenced by the Sui and the Tang periods of China. Since the Heian period, topknot-in-the-Ebosi style, binding style, and Karawa style as well as topknot-in-the-crown style came in sight and Sakayaki style became popular in the Kamakura and Muromachi periods. In the Momoyama period, Chasenmage style and Ichomage style were spread widely. In the early Edo era, Wakashumage style and Yaromage style as well as Ichomage style were preferred. In the middle of Edo era in which form and shape of topknot was more distinct symbol of class, status and job than in any other period, Tachmach style under the influence of the Punkin and Honda modes. Sonno style was popular in the late Edo era. There was a drastic disappearance of topknot style by the hair-cutting order during the Meiji Restoration period and civilized hair style of the Jankiri style, a kind of dishevelled hair style without making a topknot was in fashion and continued to the present.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.48
• /
• pp.197-216
• /
• 1999

This study reflects the aim of analyzing the formality and symbolism of the Chanel suit. Chanel had designed jersey and tweed cardigan suits in the 1910s and 1920s while her suits of the 1930s were crisply fitted. The suits of the 1950s and 960s while were comfortable and slightly boxy marked a significant step forword. Lagerfeld's mission at Chanel was to tranmute the basic elements of the Chanel style and make them contemporary. He has also introduced the contemporay wide shoulders and short tihht skirt In place of sensible knee-length skirts he offered hemlines that either grazed the ankles or exposed most of the thighs. Besides her very influential jersey and tweed cardigan suit Chanel continued to assert her considerable strength with materials often making her suits in very delicate feminizing fabrics. in place of the classic boxy tweed jacket Lagerfeld introduced jackets made of terrycloth denim and stretch fabric Many of Chanel's suits show a stylish sense of colour that would have made artist envious. Chanel and Lagerfeld chose variety of colours from beige and grey and black to blue green cerisen and red for her suits. They was completely in tune with the twentieth century understanding the changes in lifestyles of woman and also understanding how her clothes should cater to them Thus the Chanel suit is more a way of life than just a fashion and is synonymous with wealth and aritocracy. It is one of the most popular status-symbol styles of the 20th century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.6 no.4
• /
• pp.188-202
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study is to analyze how future images are embodied in contemporary fashion design. To find out future images expressed in contemporary fashion design, this paper characterized the future society as information society, network society, pluralistic society, and global village. Cyber design and techno-style expressed through metal or lustrous material which is influenced by information symbolize future image. Also, minimalism which is characterized as simplicity and purity affects the contemporary fashion design. The network society which affets t the horizontal and functional social system diminishes the meaning of socio-economic status. Therefore, street fashion has diffused to high fashion, and the formal wear has tendency to be changed into casual wear. In addition, the meaning of status symbol in contemporary fashion design become decreased. The pluralistic society affects to search for one's own personality and identity. Also, contemporary fashion design is influenced by post-modernism and deconstructionism. In order words, genderless, ageles, seasonless, and infra fashion appeared. The global village emphasizes extension of universality in life style and search for world quality. so, ethnic fashions appear frequently in contemporary fashion design. Also, the effects of Korean traditional costume to contemporary fashion design has increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.26 no.5
• /
• pp.654-662
• /
• 2002

The aim of this paper was to identify high school girls'satisfaction toward Korean traditional style school uniform and their clothing behaviour. The questionnaires were administered to 133 high school girl students in Pusan. To find out attitudes of Korean traditional style school uniform and their clothing behaviour, PC model, mineigen and Varimax Rotation of factor analysis were adopted. The results have shown that each four factors are identified in Korean traditional style school uniform's satisfaction and their clothing behaviour. Multiple Regression analysis has been used to investigate the relationship between these factors of attitudes and satisfaction toward Korean traditional style oriented school uniform. As a result, the relationship between factors of their school uniform behaviour and satisfaction of their school uniform has revealed. They tend to wear their school uniform in various occasions if their satisfaction becomes greater. Besides, the more students have recognized the uniform as symbol of status the more they become satisfied with their school uniform. The relationship between factors of clothing attitudes and satisfaction of school uniform has shown that its uniform doesn't promote students conformity since they might be aware of different style and design of their school uniform compared to other school uniforms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.17-24
• /
• 1982

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between body cathexis and five aspects of clothing behavior. Body cathexis was measured by Secord and Jourard's Body Cathexis Scale, fit in clothing was measured by Mclean's questionnaire, and three aspects of clothing were assessed with Lee, Lim, Lee, and Kahng questionnaire dealing with clothing satisfaction, status symbol, and fashion interest. Preference for fashion style was determined by line drawings of clothing designs representing current fashion and non-current fashign. The questionnaires were administered to a sample of middle-aged women (40$\~$64 year of age) in Seoul. The data for 351 respondents were analyzed by correlation and t-test. The results were : 1) Body cathexis was positvely related to clothing satisfaction for early middle-aged women as well as advanced middle-aged women. 2) Body cathexis was positively related to fit in clothing for early middle-aged women as well as advanced middle-aged women. 3) Fashion interest was positively related to preference for fashion style in early middle-aged women, 4) Scores of early middle-aged women on body cathexis, fit in clothing and preference for fashion style were significantly higher than those of advanced middle-aged women, that is, early middle-aged women had a higher self-satisfaction with body cathexis and fit in clothing. They also preferred modern fashions in contrast to be advanced middle-aged sample.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.26 no.7
• /
• pp.1105-1113
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this paper was to understand the relationship of high school boy's satisfaction with a Korean traditional style school uniform and their attitudes and image evaluation to male regarding wearing school uniforms. A survey was administered to 128 male high school students. To find our factors of their attitudes and their images regarding wearing school uniforms, Varimax rotated factor analysis was adopted. The results showed that each few factors were identified in their wearing attitudes and images. Multiple regression analysis was to investigate the relationship between these factors and the satisfaction with their school uniform. As a result of this, if their satisfaction becomes greater, they tend to recognize the distinctive design of their school uniform and wear their school uniform on various occasions. In addition, the more they become satisfied with their school uniform, the more the students are comfortable with the uniform and recognize it as a symbol of status as well. The relationship between the factors of their wearing attitudes and satisfaction with their school uniform shows that of their satisfaction becomes greater, they recognize the school uniform as good looking, comfortable and as an intelligent image. The analysis of their attitudes and images indicates that the factor of a good looking images is correlated with all factors of their attitudes. Therefore the attitudes of high school boys toward wearing a school uniform have been changed and revealed to be different from previous research results.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.95-109
• /
• 2010

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze the formative characteristic and the aesthetic values of Romantic style. To attain the goal of this study, the selected objects are the Romantic styles that were prevalent from the 1830s to the 1880s. The methodology for this study consists of literary research, aesthetics, dress and case study based upon the analysis of the 19th century dress. Based upon the theoretical study, two results are derived from the analysis of Romantic style in $19^{th}$ century dress. First, the formative characteristics of Romantic style dress are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. The suppression of body is embodied by two ways. One is tightening body parts, such as the off-the-shoulder line and the corset, and the other is applying weights on body through the wearing of layers of petticoat, crinoline and bustle. The characteristic of the fixed form created the fixed silhouettes of women's dress, for example, an X-silhouette formed with wide shoulders created by big puffed sleeves, narrow waist by corset, and wide hemline of voluminous skirt and petticoats. In addition to the X-silhouette, the bustle style created fixed h-silhouette. Volume in the women's dress were visually expressed by big puffed sleeves, a huge skirt and petticoat made with gathers, pleats and flounces, crinolines and a bustle. Ornamentation was used to express an elegant and fantastic style not only by using luxurious materials in various colors and patterns, but also by applying sumptuous details and trimmings. Second, the aesthetic values of Romantic style dress are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. Women's dress of the 19th century not only restricted free movement and symbolized men's wealth and status, but also was used as an important tool for seducing men by exposing and accentuating the sexual body, thus becoming a symbol of fertility as a metaphor of pregnancy and uterus. These aesthetic values represented in dress incorporated the contemporary requirements of women of the time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.8
• /
• pp.125-136
• /
• 2007

This study is about the excavated female shroud while moving the graveyard of Nam-yang Hong clan in Yang-pyeong, Gyeonggi Province to other place. It is acquired as Yeon-An Kim clan who is a wife of one of Nam-yang Hong clan and history is estimated to 16th Century. Significance of this excavated female costumes is, 1) a Dan-ryeong, which is typical costumes during 16C. for woman is excavated. It is embroidered with peacocks shaped badge in fore and backside on a clothes, which is understood as the symbol of highest status but it is considered as much higher than actual status of her husband. from this, we can assume that burial costumes and regulation for actual clothes by the status are not exactly matched. 2) Various form of Chima and Jegori also found in the grave along with a Buddhist banner(幡) printed with Darani(多羅尼) which is unusual in Chosun dynasty, under confucian influence. 3) An embroidered design pillow was collected first time, which make us enable to understand the in-house life style of 16C.