• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.75-88
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• 2007

Nowadays, geometrical form expressed on costume is recognizing as a part of modeling art, at the same time is working to develop it. Also the geometrical form is affording the coinciding lifestyle and sensitivity of customers keeping their pace. As a result, our study is researching on the geometrical form that is used in the pattern, silhouette, and detail of the costume to show the texture in sense of touch and the effect of optical illusion used in variable designs, in order to present the expansion our capability of infinite development included in the study of costume. Specially, geometrical form included in sports wear is very effective since the geometrical form includes short and simple beauty as well as practical design. Thus, this study is wishing to know if satisfying the practical and psychological urge of present human beings may be applied to the golf wear market, which is a type of sport that geometrical form is sent in the fastest way in domestic market. Also we are urged to know what type of design technique is the geometrical form nowadays used and changed to discriminate the artificial commerce and improve the identity of such unique brand. The source of this thesis is wishing to investigate the specialization and the most effective geometrical shape and preference of each type in domestic golf wear goods that applied geometrical goods in $2002{\sim}2006$ and analyze its way of expression.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

The objective of this study is to analyze the characteristic of a functional design for a commercial outdoor brand jacket based on 3 types of functions : windproof, waterproof, and cold proof. To analyze the design and fabric characteristics of outdoor jackets by function, 903 men's and women's outdoor jacket images were selected from the catalogues during S/S 2009 - F/W 2011 of the 6 brands: The North Face, Columbia Sports Wear, Kolon Sports, K2, Arcteryx and Mont-Bell. These brands were selected based on their high market share and brand awareness of the outdoor brands in Korea. In this study, design elements analysis was conducted as following 8 elements: hood/collar height/central front flap/waistline/pocket location/ventilation for the body part/sleeve patterns/cuff for the sleeve part. Fabrics were analyzed by the frequency of fabric types used in the 3 jacket types. According to the result derived from the analysis of the six brands of outdoor wear jacket design trends by year, detachable hood and a co-use of velcro and elastic bands have been mainly designed for all of windproof, waterproof, and cold proof jacket to all in order to respond quickly to changes in the external environment. For reinforced storage function on trekking, the number of pockets has been gradually growing, and a function was being developed to connect an electronic device to a pocket. The method, result, and collateral observations relevant to each of these phases are described. Outdoor jacket design characteristics were investigated for outdoor brands, which can provide data to suggest more accurate functional design, and satisfy functional design needs. In this regard, this research was significant in the sense that it suggested preliminary data to reconsider competitiveness of the brand products.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.222-239
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• 2021

In this study, six mainland Chinese designer brands-Xander Zhou, Sankuanz, Sean Suen, Feng Chen Wang, Pronounce, and Angel Chen-were selected that had their works presented at both Chinese and global fashion shows between 2016 and 2021. By analyzing the design characteristics of each brand, it is possible to understand the style characteristics and trends of Chinese menswear designs. A case study approach was adopted utilizing literature data, whereby 1663 photos were collected from the fashion information website POP (www.pop-fashion.com). Changes in Chinese men's image and the menswear market were identified. The design characteristics of modern Chinese menswear are as follows. First, the results from analyzing the target brands show that each brand has a distinct personality. Compared with the traditional or formal style, urban casual and sports styles (based on street style) account for a larger proportion. Second, the boundaries between different styles are becoming ambiguous, and contrasting styles are harmoniously expressed by breaking down boundaries through changes and combinations of colors, materials, and details. Third, after examining the overall trend, 2018 was a watershed point, after which the design trend has changed from either conservative or exaggerated to a practical and everyday style, demonstrating a genderless trend.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.60-68
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• 2002

Fashion has been affected by the change of periodic conditions. A good example is found in the relationship between fashion and periodic conditions before and after World War I in the U.S. During the pre-wartime, the artificial silhouette achieved through using devices like the corset was popular and then women's dresses were very decorative and gorgeous using a wide variety of details. S-curved silhouettes and Paul Poiret's style will be reviewed as distinctive shapes of pre-war fashion in the beginning of the 20th Century. Through the war, women's rights improved enormously, the use of the automobile increased tremendously, and various kind of sports, the movie industry and ready-to-wear market developed very much. Women's clothes also changed to be much more practical and functional in post-war fashion. It seems that fashion is affected by the change of periodic conditions.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.165-174
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• 2011

Recent years have witnessed that IT-convergence technology has become the most important issue in the global market. Along with this trend, demand for PSS(i.e., Product-Service Systems) design has been rapidly increased in the smart clothing market. A case of the PSS design research, this study aimed to identify optimum conditions for weaving of POF-based flexible textile display(abbreviated as "PFTD") for mountaineer wear with safe-guard function regarding luminescent properties. Based on the findings regarding the optimum weaving condition of PFTD, several designs of mountaineer wear were suggested in this study. A total of 15 PFTD samples were prepared under various weaving conditions of weave structures and density of POF, and the luminance values of each sample were measured. As the results, the types of PFTD with structures and density of 'satin 3:1', 'satin 2:1', 'twill 3:1' and 'twill 2:1' indicated relatively higher luminescence. And based on the results and recent sports fashion trends, two suited mountaineering wears applying PFTD were illustrated in this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.1-17
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• 2005

The realistic plan to establish a silver market in the clothing industries has not taken concrete shape, although the interest in the establishment of a silver market targeting the aged as a new custom group Is gradually Increasing because the rapid development of science and medical technology in the 20th century has led to an extension of lift and improvement of living conditions. The specialized business which produces and sells the clothing for the elderly is of small number and most of the clothes for the elderly are manufactured and sold by the companies for women's clothing in which change the size or length of the original works rather than reflect the bodily features of the elderly. The findings indicated that domestic brands showed the coordinated concept of a suit of jacket and slacks or skirts while the clothes were formed with a variety of coordinations centering around single article in the U.S brands. But, there was no difference in the use of natural materials centering around cotton and silk etc. and in the use of embroidery, lace and decorative details between the two countries. The knit brands of knit suit style in Korea were formed with the items focused on pull over and cardigan twin set, while the U.S brands were mainly formed with the design of knit suit style. The domestic knit brands were mostly developed with complicated patterns and gorgeous colors, while most of the U.S. brands were presenting a single or two tone color suit style and evening one-piece dress with a simple and modern style. The sporty casual brands of sporty casual style in Korea had a variety of colors and patterns focused on function and comfort for diverse leisure activities and daily life, while the U.S brands were established to present a variety of styles with the items of single article because they had a separate brand for casual even though it was not a exclusive brand for the elderly This study has a meaning in the presentation of the design idea considering the bodily shape of the elderly compared to the ready-to-wear considering the size alone, by examining the characteristics of bodice according to the physical change of the elderly women, analyzing the design of madam brand and the style of the ready-to-wear, researching the general circumstances of the brand for the elderly women, and highlighting the necessity of the elderly clothing market.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.45-54
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• 2004

The Purpose of this study was to research and develop a Pattern of tight Pants, featuring excellent appearance, movement and suitability for the lower body, which are widely used as a basic item for modem dance, aerobic dance and dance sports, and to provide manufacturing data for the pants. This study was carried out with 118 People who majored in dance, using questionnaires asking questions about their understanding and preference of dancewear The experimental dancewear was produced, using 5 kinds of patterns for tight pants on the market, to find out the most excellent pattern in appearance and movement performance. Then, the most excellent pattern was again improved to produce a pattern for this study. The result of this study is summarized as follows. 1. Regarding shops where they purchased dancewear exclusive shops accounted for 97%, their average price was ￦30,000 to ￦50,000(51%), and dancewear separated between the upper and lower halves was most preferred(56%). Cotton span was preferably used for a dancewear material(71%), and their dissatisfaction of a fit accounted for 38% which appeared to be highly unsatisfied with its suitability. 2. When S types of experimental dancewear prepared with a comparative pattern were tested by the senses, it was shown that the comparative pattern of experimental wear number 5 with a strip w3s excellent in movement functions and appearance. 3. The basic items necessary to design the tight pants' study pattern were categorized into waist circumference, hip circumference, crotch depth and slacks length. The shrinkages of 15% in width, 10% in crotch length md 20% in inside leg length were applied, respectively, referring to previous studies and the experimental dancewears' comparative patterns. 4. When the improved study pattern for this study was tested by the senses, it showed higher scores in movement functions and appearance than the comparative pattern did, which confirmed the study pattern's improvement of functions and appearance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.852-866
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women's fashion with the androgynous image(fashion item, adornment) which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. First, masculine image led the market in the first stage of mid 1980 in a men's wear oriented trend that the woman wear masculine style jacket, pants and blouse. In hair style, the short hair of the masculine image was used habitually but the make-up was tend to be made heavily. The ambivalence of the sex was also showed up by expressing the feminine image on the masculine image using the accessories like necklace, earing and bracelet. Second, unlike the first stage, it showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. The jacket, blouse and pants were rooted as the basic item in women's fashion. The feminine style of long hair and natural make-up with the androgynous image were increased. Third, in the third stage of the late 1990, the fashion items to the comfortable dress of light weight as the life style pursuits the activity and convenience. The feminine image were appeared naturally with a long hair style and natural make-up with the androgynous image. The remarkable features in the fashion accessories were that boots and low shoes were preferred by the increase of the masculine image shoes and the sneakers were seen a lot by the effect of the sports boom.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.63-76
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• 2015

This study conducted a survey to gauge the buying and wearing propensities of wearers of leg guards made for baseball catchers, as well as product characteristics of preferred leg guards. Data from the survey were analyzed to obtain basic data for the development of an advanced leg guard design. Degree of compression, horizontal distance, cross section view and outline 3D sketch were also analyzed from the 3D data of leg guards; in addition, mobility and kinematic analysis were conducted through a wearing test. The survey indicated that imported products dominate the current retail market because they are appreciated by customers in terms of fit, price, brand, and protection. Representative complaints of products were discomfort, pressure, and the heavy-weight of the leg guards in general attributed to overall structure and 3D shape. When the pressure was lower on the front area of knee, it feels better to wear and the average knee angular velocity during the up and down motion increased, which suggests a better design from a kinematic point of view. The knee is the primary part of the body responsible for any movement of the lower limbs; consequently, the degree of compression and support stability of the leg guards near the knee area are important factors to evaluate the performance of leg guards. The results of our study indicate significant opportunities for improvement in product design and the development of baseball leg guards along with an ergonomic design that considers the mobility of the knee, skin deformations is necessary to improve performance. The process followed in this study will be applicable to studies on other personal protective equipment for sports.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.15
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• pp.217-231
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• 1990

The purposes of this study were to research 1) the background of origination, 2) the process of development and 3) the influences to modern clothing culture of American sportswear. The most Influential sportswear designers in America from beginning period to present : such as Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan were selected to study their life and achievements in the world sportswear market. The Results were as follows : 1) World War I & II have caused the greatest changes to modern history America became the center of world economy, society and culture. Politically, they have influenced democracy world-wide and raised the social status of women. The free American women enjoyed sports, Jazz drinking and car-driving. The advanced technology have accelerated mechanization and mass-production to the fashion industrv. 2) The above historical backgrounds have caused to change women's clothing to casual, practical and simple form. Dorothy Shaver at Lord & Taylor began promoting American designers who created the original American spirit. Claire McCardell created the seperated American sportswear to become world-wide fashion. Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, the sportswear designers who have the unique American feeling have come to have riches and fames equal to the top designers in Paris. 3) The American sportswear and fashion industry influenced Paris Mode, the traditional Haute Couture to open Pret-a-porter-a-porter. The concept of seperated coordination in American sportswear have promoted the advanced marketing techniques and merchandising systems to modern ready-to-wear industry. Fashion in 1980s have increased the mutual interdepedence between the American sportswear industry and the creative Paris Mode. And then, the fashion world in 1990s and 21C will be changed and developed on the basis of American sportswear mechanism.