• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.149-166
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• 2021

This study tried to suggest a drafting method to draft tight fit torso patterns suitable for adult males with a sway back somatotype and a bend forward somatotype by setting and distributing the ease through the completion of the somatic surface pattern using the 3D body surface segment method. It was intended to be presented as a drafting method. As for the research method, the suitability of the somatic surface patterns and the tight fit torso patterns were confirmed by the evaluation of virtual wear, and the patterns were modified and supplemented. The research results are as follows. In the first evaluation of the tight fit torso patterns, the average, for 55 evaluation items, was 3.92 points for the sway back somatotype and 3.89 points for the bend forward somatotype. In the second evaluation, the bend forward somatotype was 4.51 points and the sway back somatotype was 4.62 points. The chest circumference ease amount for the bend forward somatotype and the sway back somatotype are 6.5% (6.8 cm) and 7% (6.8 cm) of the chest circumference, respectively, and the distribution of the front and back ease is the same at 4:6 (2.72 cm:4.08 cm). The waist circumference ease amount is 6.5% (5.8cm) and 6.5% (5.6 cm) of the waist circumference dimensions, and the distribution of the front and backease are 5:5 (1.45 cm: 1.45 cm) and 4:6 (2.24 cm: 3.36 cm), respectively. The completed tight fit torso patterns were converted into institutional formulas and presented as a drafting method.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.136-152
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to provide dress forms and jacket blocks for adult males based on the analysis of their somatotypes. As the result of the research conducted for this study that was based on 1290 males of 20 to 54 years-old, the shapes of adult male were 20 and each body shape was classified by size factor, height and chest girth. Also, master sizes were selected considering appearance frequency. XS type (master size: height 165cm and chest circumference 88cm), Yd type (master size: height 170cm and chest circumference 91cm), YI and AD2 types (master size: height 170cm and chest circumference 94cm) were selected to develop dress forms and their jacket blocks in this study. The procedure and results were follows; 1. The dress forms of XS, Yd, YI and AD2 types were produced base on means of 61 body measurements and cross sections of shoulder, chest, waist, hip of subjects belong to each somatotype. 2. New jacket blocks for XS, Yd, YI and AD2 types were developed based on the body surface developments through draping and the results of comparative investigation on the existing jacket blocks by wearing test. Also the drafting methods of new jacket blocks were provided. 3. The sensory evaluation by wearing test showed that the developed jacket blocks were estimated more highly in terms of chest's allowance, the front width's allowance, neck wrinkle, front allowance and overall appearance's fitness items than existing jacket blocks.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.41-57
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• 2006

The purpose of this study were to provide dress forms and men's jacket blocks based on the analysis of their somatotype. As the result of the previous research, based on 1290 males of 20 to 54 year-old, the shapes of adult male were 20 and each body shape was classified by size factor, height and chest girth and master size was selected considering appearance frequency. Somatotype YS(master size: height 170cm, chest girth 91cm) and HD1(master size: height 170cm, chest girth 94cm) were selected to develop dress forms and men's jacket block in the study. The procedure and results were follows; 1. The dress forms of somatotype YS and HD1 were provide base on means of 61 body measurements and cross sections of shoulder, chest, waist, hip of subjects belong to each somatotype. 2. New men's jacket blocks of somatotype YS and HD1 were developed based on the body surface extracted by draping and the result of comparative investigation on the conventional jacket patterns by wearing test. Also the drafting methods of new men's jacket blocks were provided. 3. Wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that the developed jacket blocks were estimated more highly than existing patterns.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.904-921
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• 2021

The aim of this study was to develop a body type suitable for adult men aged from their 20s to their 40s and to present a method of drafting related patterns. To this end, the somatic surface pattern data from previous studies were used. The research method involved drafting torso patterns for each type by setting and distributing the ease to the somatic surface pattern. Appearance evaluation was performed with virtual clothing. Then, the torso pattern for each body type was completed and presented as a draft method. SPSS was used for data analysis in this study. The research results are as follows. Types 1, 2, and 3 were set to 7%, 6%, 5%; 7%, 6%, 4%; and 6.5%, 7%, and 6% for chest, waist, and hip circumference measurements, respectively. The ratio of front to back was 50%:50%, 50%:50%, and 50%:50% of the spare for each body part for Type 1; 70%:30%, 50%:50%, and 60%:40% for Type 2, and 60%:40%, 70%:30%, and 60%:40% for Type 3. A tight-fit torso pattern for each body type suitable for adult males in their 20s to 40s was drafted, which was modified and supplemented through the evaluation of the first and second virtual wear. Considering the practicality of this approach, for generalization of the patterns, the items of the pattern were converted into a drafting method and presented as a draft method.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권7호
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• pp.1026-1035
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• 2002

The purposes of this study were to classify the front view of trunk of adult males into several kinds of shape and to provide the characteristics and silhouette of each group which has same shape. As the sample, subjects were l290 males of 20 to 54 year-old. The procedure and results were follows; l. The principal component analysis was used to obtain the shape factor of the front of the trunk 8 factors in the front which explained 86.8% of total variance were extracted. 2. As the result of the cluster analysis of factor scores, the font of body was classified in 4 types. 4 types were named X, A, Y and H type in the front considering the characteristics of each type.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권10호
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• pp.1443-1454
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• 2002

The purposes of this study were to classify body type of adult males into several kind of shape and to provide the characteristics of size of each group which has same shape. As the sample, subjects were 1290 males of 20 to 54 year-old. The procedure and results were follows; 1. As the result of the previous reserch, the front line of body was classified in X, H, Y and A types. 2. The principal component analysis was used to obtain the shape factor of the side line of the trunk. 9 factors in the side were extracted. As the result of the cluster analysis of factor scores, the side line of body was classified in 5 types. It was named X, A, Y and H type in the front and S, D1, d, I and D2 type in the side. 3. In order to consider the shape of body as a whole, the body shape of the front and side were compounded. The whole body shapes of adult male were very various, and 6 body shapes, XS, YS, Yd, YI, AD2 and HD1 were selected as the basic types. In each type of body, several groups were classified by size factor, height and chest girth and master size was selected considering appearance frequency.