• Journal of Society of Preventive Korean Medicine
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.75-87
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• 2016

Objectives : This study aims to classify and analyze literature related to moire topography, as a diagnostic device of Korean medicine, discuss research trends and major results, and demonstrate the value of moire topography. Methods : To investigate moire topography research trends, Korean keywords that signify 'moire' were searched in a Korean journal search engine. Initially, 2,988 papers were found in the research, and, after classifying them and removing those that are duplicate in other databases, only 37 papers were applicable for the literature review in this study. To analyze research trends, the 37 papers were analyzed based on the publication year, research field, journal, and research type, and, clinical articles were classified based on the diagnosis purpose, subject characteristics, diagnosis method, test method, and test result, for analysis. Results : Moire topography research in South Korea was first conducted in 1995 and most active in 2003, mostly in the field of Korean medicine. In the journal analysis, The Journal of Korea CHUNA Manual Medicine for Spine & Nerves published the highest number of papers, most of which were clinical articles and the rest were literature review. And, in the analysis of clinical papers, based on the diagnosis purpose, muscle somatotype measurement was most common, followed by diagnosis of scoliosis. In terms of subjects, most studies focused on elementary, middle, and high school students, and, in terms of the diagnosis method, other tests were used in most studies. The analysis of moire topography methods showed that most studies measured the shoulder, back, and hip, and the most common measurement method in the studies measured the difference in contour lines on the left and right by designating a central line of the body. In terms of the result, most moire topography brought about significant diagnosis results, and many studies demonstrated its use for musculoskeletal diseases in particular. Conclusions : Moire topography is believed to be highly significant for diagnosis and treatment of musculoskeletal diseases and further research will be needed to support it.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.1205-1220
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of $19^{th}$ century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the $19^{th}$ century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0~6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7~3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to "S" shape silhouette as wearing the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.109-125
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to provide basic data for a more functional torso's pattern by analyzing multidimensional anthropometric measurements and the wearing condition. For the functional torso's pattern drafting, the fitness state of basic torso's patterns(4 types) was compared and evaluated from the cross-sectioned overlap maps by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography. The results were as follows: 1. According to the measurements of four patterns by using the one-dimensional measurement, the amount of ease in girth item for pattern A was the smallest. The ease of clothes was affected by the position of dart, the amount of dart, and the drafting method. 2. As the results of wearing evaluation by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography method, pattern B had the largest space length for hip part, pattern A, C and D had the largest space length for bust part. Also, in the all measurement items, pattern A had the smallest amount of ease. The space length for bust and waist part of pattern B was smaller than pattern D, but, for abdomen and hip part of pattern B was larger than pattern D. The space length of pattern C was revealed intermediate for all measurement part. 3. The significant difference of space length of each pattern was shown in all parts except bust part(p<.05). The amount of space was affected by the amount of dart, the characteristics of the somatotype, and the drafting method.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.864-875
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• 2006

The characteristics of the demographics in Korea as it gets older are the increase of Elderly Women and continuous progress in urbanization. In this study, body shapes are classified as standard, obese, and tiny according to the previous studies based on the body shape characteristics and the body measurement of the Elderly Women. Based on the classification, we developed prototype of the panty for the Elderly Women to provide basic materials for the quality enhancement of the clothing of the increasing Elderly Women. The followings are the result of the study. 1. To categorize the body shapes of the Elderly Women focusing on the lower half, we grouped the target subjects using the nested approach by the average standard deviation and the factor analysis minimal diffusion method. Accordingly, type 1 and 2 had 36 members respectively and type 3 had 43 members. In this study, two Elderly Women subjects with standard body shape falling under the type 1 were selected as the subjects. 2. In the second trial evaluation for the prototype panty for the Elderly Women 32 items for appearance test and 3 items for functional test were evaluated. The scores in leg, sideline and hip were shown high and the balance between the parts was maintained very well. In the functional test, the panty used to be too tight for the leg curve but in the second trial it was improved, too. In each item, the second trial test showed better score than the first trial test. Conclusively, the most optimal panty prototype for the Elderly Women was proposed according to the trial test result.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• 제43권10호
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• pp.179-190
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to apply the three dimensional Replica method to the fabrication of dress forms of plus-sized women to attain proper ease through draping and based on the ease to develop good torso patterns with superior fit. The results were as follows. The physical characteristics of the dress forms of plus-sized women were divided into two: Types I and 11. The proper ease was calculated through draping using dummies of each somatotype and appropriate torso patterns were developed. The differences of the types for each pattern were as follows. The bust girth ease of Type II was 6cm as for Type I. As for the bust breadth 1.0cm was added to the anterior chest width, the armpit width was the actual measurement plus 0.5cm, and the back breadth was the posterior chest width plus 2.5cm. The bust breadth was smaller and the back breadth was bigger that those of Type I after improving the bust and back fit. The bust of Type I protrudes outwards relatively and so the shoulder dart of front-side of Type I was 1.2cm bigger than that of Type II which improved the bust region fit. Considering the characteristics of the protruding abdominal region the front- side waistline of type II was assigned W/4+3.5cm and the back-side waistline W/4cm, so that the sidelines divided the front and back properly. It was drafted so that the center-front became diagonal, thereby improving the middle-hip girth fit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.51-69
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to classify the body shapes. exclusive of size and corpulence factors of more than 60-year old elderly women by distinctions, and to investigate the visual effects of combination of ensemble suit details. For the body shape classification, the factor analysis and cluster analysis were performed : the mean value difference of numeral values for classified types were tested by ANOVA : and the follow-up test was conducted by the Duncan's multiple ranged test. The data analysis for visual effects evaluated by a multiple ranking test was analysed by mean. paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple ranged test. The results are summarized as follows : 1. The followings are the types of body shape according to the shape factors of the front line of body for elderly women. The distinctions of the front li e of elderly women's body could be presumed; that was, Body typeⅠ was a comparatively well-balanced body type, Body type Ⅱ was close to an average body type. and Body type In was a severely corpulent body type. 2. The followings are the results on the physical visual effects inducing the constituents of clothing type. 1) The neckline·collar types of a jacket have a great influence on the visual effects of the upper body, and orderly. the tailored collar. soutien collar, and round neckline had positive influence on the visual effects in the upper body. 2) The pleat types of one-piece dress had positive influence on the visual effects in the lower body in the order of gored type, pleats type, and gathered type. Also. the balance in the lower body had more influence on the overall balance of the clothing compared to the constituents of clothing type such as neckline collar type or opening line. 3) It showed that whether there is the front opening line of a jacket influenced on the visual effects of all categories.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.960-967
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• 2012

The study aims to design the corset type long-line bra patterns that compensate part-somatotype of women in their 20s. The corset type long-line research bra patterns consist of 4 sections: cup, front bodice, back bodice, and shoulder strap. The full cup is made up of 2 lower part pieces and 1 upper part piece, and the shoulder strap is 16 millimeters wide. The method to design the patterns is shown in figure 4 and figure 5. The result of wearing test showed that, while the wearing testers recognized some significant differences in 19 out of 26 criteria, the examiners did in 17 out of 23. The criteria more than 1 in an average value between research bras and commercial bras were 'appropriateness of breadth of shoulder strap', 'appropriateness of pressure of armhole circumference'. 'appropriateness of pressure of waist', 'suitability of side line and body curve', 'appropriateness of positional pressure of chest circumference', 'appropriateness of positional pressure of upper part line', 'appropriateness of positional pressure of bottom part line', and 'satisfaction of whole silhouette of side and back'. The research and commercial bras were evaluated 4.23 and 3.44 respectively by the testers, and 4.25 and 3.40 by the examiners. The former ones were scored higher by both parties. They were also appreciated higher in general silhouettes of fitting and appearance.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2005

Two hundreds of female aged 19 years old and up were recruited to evaluate the postural changes and bilateral variation of asymmetry over age. To find out the differences among the age group, subjects were classified into 5 groups, early young age(19-29), late young age(30-39), early middle age(40-49), late middle age(50-59), and old age(60-). 35 body measurements were taken by the 3-D body scanner which allowed us to take measurements which cannot be measured using traditional methods, including the shape of a cross section, slice area surface are, and volume. Bilateral variations were observed as a function of age; Depth of scapular point level, scapular point to center back, and blade angle. Postural change of anterior cervical angle, upper anterior thoracic angle, upper posterior thoracic angle, posterior cervical angle, and center back/center front ratio were also exhibited. In each measurements, subjects were classified into normal, and abnormal group. Percentiles of abnormal in shoulder line angle, blade angle, neck point $\∼$ acromial point $\∼$ scapular point, posterior cervical angle, and upper posterior thoracic angle were increased over age group. The upper body of lateral view was classified into 3 types of posture based on the previous research; straight, erect(leaning back), and stooped(bent forward). The percentiles of subjects who have straight postures were decreased as a function of age, but those of stooped postures were increased. Subjects who have erect postures did not so. The stooped posture group shows the big cervical fossa angle, anterior cervical angle, posterior cervical angle, upper posterior thoracic angle, and the small upper anterior thoracic angle comparing to the straight and erect posture group. These results could be apply for clothing construction reflecting the changes in back, shoulder, neck, and the bilateral asymmetry according to the target age group.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.15-32
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to research on the actual condition of production and selling in silver apparel market. For the questionnaire, 19 women's wear brands which were in higher ranking of sales in boutiques and madame-zone of department stores were selected. Pattern makers of each brand were questioned about 40 items for this research. The results of the questionnaire were as follows: 1) According to the result of the survey on the made-to-wear production of 19 ready-to-wear manufacturers, there was the gap was in ages between the target and the real consumer. Consumers of these brands were older and aged more broadly than their target ages. 2) Most of the consumers of silver-zone has thick waists, common heights, fat shapes. Custom-made clothes are ordered in many cases because of the big abdomen(50.0%) and H-shape(58.3%) of a somatotype. The body size variation of user population is needed for a good fit. 3) All brands(100%) of this research are using KS standards in the label of clothing, but they don't use these data in their production by reason of unawareness and distrust about these data. These inconsistency between the label and the real size of products may cause a confusion when consumers buy ready-to-wear. 4) Silver apparel manufacturers have need of anthropometry information and dummy(78.6%) suitable for their target consumers to increase their satisfaction about their apparel fit.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.963-970
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of underweight female in their 20s~30s by using Clo 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, as a result of analyzing torso somatotype, underweight women showed lower average than average values of whole women in their twenties and thirties in the items such as length, width, circumference, thickness except for height. Second, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new torso pattern considered underweight female was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+3.5, armhole depth B/4+0.5, front waist girth W/4+0.5+0.7, back waist girth W/4+0.5-0.7, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+1-0.5, chest width B/6+3.1, back width B/6+4.5, neck width B/12+0.2 and neck depth B/12+1.7. Third, by reducing hollowed amount of front, back, and side line, and hollowed amount of back center line, the reduced quantity was included to darts amount. Number of dart was adjusted to two pieces so that darts amount was equally distributed to two darts. Forth, according to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern was appropriate for the underweight women. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.