• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.100-106
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• 1993

A study on optimizing the friction welding of copper(C1100) to aluminium(A1050) for developing the electrical sleeve was experimentally carried out and also on real-time nondestructive evaluation of the friction weld quality (strength) was accomplished by acoustic emission technique. The results obtained are summarized as the following ; 1) The heating upset $U_1$(mm) or total upset U(mm) tends to increase according to the increase of heating time $t_1$(sec). The relations between $U_1$ and $t_1$ or U and $t_1$are computed as follows when n=2000rpm, $P_1$=4, $P_2$=8kgf/$mm^2$, and $t_2$=6sec. U=1.6$e^{0.39t_1}$ $U_1$=3.65$e^{0.25t_1}$. 2) It was notified that the proper welding conditions by considering on both strength with more than 100% joint effieciency and toughness are heating time of 1.5-2.25 sec under n=200rpm, $P_1$=4, $P_2$=8kgf/$mm^2$, $t_2$=6sec. 3) It was confirmed that both AE total counts(N, counts) and the weld tensile strength (${\sigma}$, kgf/$mm^2$) of the welded joints increase as the increase of heating time, respectively, the relations between N and $t_1$, ${\sigma}$ and $t_1$ are computed from data points by regression analysis using the least square method as follows in case of the above proper condition ; N=50108+23917(ln $t_1$)${\sigma}$$=11.85+2.06(ln $t_1$). 4) Both empirical and calcularated equations of relationship between .sigma. and N are very coincident with a high reliability, as the following in case of the above proper welding condition ; Calculated : ${\sigma}$=0.00008N+7.5 Empirical :${\sigma}$= $8.17e^{0.0000072N}$. 5) It was confirmed that the real-time nondestructive weld strength evaluation for friction welding of copper(C1100) to aluminium(A1050) could be possible by acoustic emission technique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.5 s.95
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• pp.108-119
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• 2005

The objective of the study is was investigate the condition of the battle dress uniform worn by male members of the Korean Police Special Weapons Attack Team(KP-SWAT), identify problems, and provide basic raw materials for developing improved design of BDU. For this purpose, the researcher conducted a questionnaire survey on 92 male members of SWAT (Special Weapon Attack Team) units in Seoul using a questionnaire developed through observation and interview. Also, the body sizes of male SWAT members were measured. According to the results of body size measurements, male SWAT members generally require uniforms with a target bust girth, armhole, biceps circumference, thigh and calf circumference, longer jacket length, sleeve length, and trouser length to the knee. According to the results of the questionnaire survey, they reported dissatisfaction with the fit. In addition, they said that the Pockets are positioned too low for convenient use. Many subjects reported that their trousers were too short because of the rubber rings at the bottom of the legs. In addition, many subjects requested the alteration of the inconveniences caused by the designs finished with velcro on the bottom collar of the upper uniform, the marks and ensigns of the upper uniform, the bottom of the upper and lower uniform, and several pockets. Furthermore, there were many complaints concerning how they had to wear their uniform. The most frequently worn out and the body parts most often injured in field training and operations, they were reported, on the upper uniform, as the elbow, collar, neck, armpit, shoulder, and sleeve hem in that order, and on the lower uniform, the knee, interior calf, waist (belt rings), buttocks (rear pockets), and the bottom of the trousers (ankle) in that order As for questions concerning priorities in the improvements of the operational uniform and preferred design, the subjects recommended improvement in safety (protectiveness), workability (motional flexibility), design (shape), fit (size), comfort, ease in terms of putting on and taking off, etc., and the majority preferred two-piece designs ($67.4\%$), followed by one-piece ($30.4\%$), or both ($2.2\%$).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.43-52
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to present the plan for activation and rationalization of production of ladies' jacket and provide basic materials for improvement of the development of technologies in relation to the productivity improvement of ladies' jacket and the achievement of high quality product. For this purpose, this study attempted to investigate the present situation of jacket manufacturing process. The data is related with local ladies' jacket manufacturing companies in Seoul snd Kyonggi area. The results of this study are as follows. 1. 87.8% of the business firms responded that they acquired the productive process of jacket based on their own knowhow and 80.5% was aware of the need for the analysis of each process. The highest proportion of the business firms(65.9%) pointed out that the advantage of process analysis was the alleviation of the production time. 2. The jacket manufacturing process was made up of 4 stages such as the process of frontal/rear plate $\rightarrow$ the process of accessories $\rightarrow$ the process of completion $\rightarrow$ the process of finishing in a broad sense but composed of a total of 19 stages in detail. 3. Attachment of the sleeves(73.2), attachment of the collar(41.5%) and the formation of the overall silhouette(22.0%) were raised as the challenge in manufacturing ladies' jacket. 4. Most of the sewing business firms made use of the method of completing the collar and then stitching the outer material and the inner collar, and the line of the bodice and the outer collar as the method of stitching the tailored collar. and many of them used the method of completing the collar and then inserting it between the line of the bodice and the outer material and stitching it as the method of stitching the stand collar. They had a preference for the method of completing the sleeve and connecting it to the bodice as the method of stitching the sleeve. and used the method of treating the margin to seam of semi-lined and unlined jacket by treating it with the bias tape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.598-610
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• 2009

The aim of this study was to present a flexible and satisfactory clothing design for girls aged 4 to 6 years of age, which can be worn comfortably for 3 years, during that age range. This study focuses attention on the need for well-fitting clothes in the young girls' market, and provides a basis for development of designs that can be worn for a long time, are comfortable for children to wear, and reflect preferences of both children and parents. Documentary research was executed to examine the history and changes of children's wear. Internet and market research were carried out to understand the current situation of girls' clothing in Korea. In-depth interview subjects were girls aged 4 to 6 and their guardians. Subjects were asked questions related to children's wear size and design, and measurements were taken of child subjects. Children's wear on the Internet was found to be trendy and inexpensive but of a low quality, as was children's wear at Dongdaemun market. Children's wear at department stores was of high quality and pretty, but did not consider size much and was expensive. One problem of the Korean children's wear market was lack of a unified size system. In-depth interviewees pointed out that there are not many clothes that fit their children perfectly. Problems included t-shirt, sleeve and pants length. Parents said they preferred simple and clean designs, and children interviewees all liked pink dresses and skirts. Children's physical measurements presented by Size Korea were compared and verified with measurements taken of child interviewees, and used as a basis for patterns. The study presented two designs for girls of ages 4 to 6 to wear all through that age range. A sample was made for one of the designs, and an evaluation showed very successful results.

• Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers A
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• v.21 no.7
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• pp.1042-1049
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• 1997

LMFBR(Liquid Metal Fast Breeder Reactor) vessel is operated under the high temperatures of 500-550.deg. C. Thus, transient thermal loads were severe enough to cause inelastic deformation due to creep-fatigue and plasticity. For reduction of such inelastic deformations, Y-piece structure in the form of a thermal sleeve is used in LMFBR vessel under repeated start-up, service and shut-down conditions. Therefore, a systematic method for inelastic analysis is needed for design of the Y-piece structure subjected to such loading conditions. In the present investigation, finite element analysis of heat transfer and inelastic thermal stress were carried out for the Y-piece structure in LMFBR vessel under service conditions. For such analysis, ABAQUS program was employed based on the elasto-plastic and Chaboche viscoplastic constitutive equations. Based on numerical data obtained from the analysis, creep-fatigue damage estimation according to ASME Code Case N-47 was made and compared to each other. Finally, it was found out that the numerical predictio of damage level due to creep based on Chaboche unified viscoplastic constitutive equation was relatively better compared to elasto-plastic constitutive formulation.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.75-84
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• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.183-196
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to find out the characteristics of sexuality expressed in the contemporary modern fashion jacket, especially designer Thom Browne. Thom Browne is a very successful fashion brand that has focused on design of extraordinary theme. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 862 work pieces in the collection of S/S, F/W, RESORT, PRE-FALL from 2010 to 2016. The characteristics of the contemporary expressions of sexualities can be subdivided into four separate categories. First, The demolition is inflated retail, exaggerated shoulder silhouettes, such as short sleeve jacket is mainly used in the form of a women's match with each other and expressed by different materials applied to men. Female jackets are designed for the silhouette to highlight the strong masculine image to highlight additional detail on the chest or vice versa, to express women's jacket to distort the female. Secondly, Sensuality is designed the body of a male was represented by a design that gives a greater masculinity was expressed that the interpretation of the male gender in detail jacket sleeves and wrap the exposed areas of the important men of fashion. Women's jacket by using a see-through material, mainly sensory Castle outward to reveal the concealed body of the female form a natural curve shows the feminine sensuality. Lastly, Incongruity is inadequate representation by sex of clothing to match the jacket and skirt in women's wear it is also unsuitable for revealing gender as male by applying soot forms. The study attempts to find the meaning in that this presents the direction of the creative development of the modern fashion design based on the aesthetic characteristics of Thom Browne fashion appearing in the modern fashion.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.1171-1189
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• 2014

In order to provide the basic data for creating the environment which can efficiently reflect prefer fit along with body size when selecting clothes size in the indirect purchasing environment, this study analyzed the difference of ready-made jacket part-specific fit preferred by fashion models in their twenties and female college students. This study was to analyze the impact of body size, recognition of body part-specific characteristics shape, body satisfaction on prefer fit of jacket. As for the difference of prefer fit depending on the body size, female college students preferred more loose fit than models. The difference according to recognition of body part-specific characteristics shape turned out to be significant for prefer fit depending on the degree of bend of neck, arm length, bend of back recognition and matching fit was found to be preferred as they recognize their body shape to be normal and the difference according to body satisfaction appeared to be significant in the terms of bend of back, hip width/protrusion, torso size/length, sleeve length, whole body shape and they turned out to prefer matching fit as they are satisfied with their body. As shown above, body size, recognition of body part-specific characteristics shape, especially body satisfaction have a great influence on prefer fit of jacket and therefore, if preparing for a size selection step according to body shape and satisfaction in the jacket size selection process, customers' satisfaction in jacket size may be improved and it is considered to be helpful for both consumers and sellers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.511-519
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• 2003

The traditional culture has been developed for a long time with an unique property according to folk character, custom and environment within an area. Especially in 1906, when the westerners were interested in oriental cultures more and more, Paul Poiret presented Japanese traditional dress of napping sleeve coats and harem pants, henceforth japanese fashion theme began to rise. The Japanese style rose as an important fashion item of the modern fashion, with various fashion themes such as orientalism, ethnic, folklore, ecology, etc., needless to say of activities of Japanese designers. The revealed patterns on Japanese dress and it's ornament plays a role of expressive decoration as well as stand for the nation, the ideology of the age and aesthetic consciousness. For this reason, it is necessary to study Japanese traditional patterns expressed in modern fashion systematically. Therefore, in this research, the demonstrated Japanese traditional patterns on the modern fashion were divided into natural, artificial and complex design and were looked out the characteristic, furthermore it was studied in regard that Japanese patterns were how to apply in modern fashion. It was concluded that the characteristics of the Japanese traditional patterns presented in the modern fashion were as follows: first, creation of environmental friendly design using plenty of natural materials; second, expression of paint-like impression and beauty of margins by simplifying of patterns; third, expression of amusing design by using bright colors and print; finally, various patterns were spreaded out complicated on dress. The characteristics of Japanese traditional patterns in the above were expressed in the modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1092-1101
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the size of ready-made clothing for elderly women and to evaluate their fit according to body type. Subjects were 33 women aged 60 and older, and they were classified by stature and drop index. The size of clothing which manufactured by four apparel brands were measured and compared with body size, and the size designation of four brands was compared. The questionnaire was carried out to subjects, and the size recognition and dissatisfaction with ready-made clothing were analyzed. The fitting test were carried out, and the subjects evaluated the fit of jackets and slacks of four brands. In the result of questionnaire, we found that subjects had little recognition about their clothing size. Subjects responded that they often felt dissatisfaction in their jacket length, sleeve length, shoulder width, bust girth, slacks, and waist girth. We found that each apparel brands had different sizing system and that even if the size designation of label was same, the clothing size was quite different. So the elderly women who didn't have so much knowledge about their own clothing size had a tendency to confuse with choosing proper clothing for themselves. In the wearer's evaluation, the significant difference in the degree of unsatisfaction were certified in several body parts according to wearer's body type. Especially, the degree of unsatisfaction in the case of subjects of having very small stature or very small hip was higher than other body types. From the result, we certified that it was necessary to consider the characteristics of each body type to increase the satisfaction of elderly women with clothing.