• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.86-99
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• 2007

In this study, the concept of play as an entertainment is redefined and applicable method of fashion design as a play are suggested by analyzing the feature of doll's costume design based on the play pattern. In literary study, the role of playing doll Is described and has been examined by the analysis of scholars' opinions. In positive study, the pattern and costume design of sample costume dolls are analyzed using 624 samples of the representative images collected from the literatures and real figures, and they are classified as collection dolls or fashion dolls in order to analyze the feature of fashion design in playing dolls. As a result of the analysis of doll's costumes based on its use, the costumers are divided into a real world costume which is similar to what human wear in daily life and a virtual costume which is used in the movie or play and the costumes only worn by the dolls. The examination of the type of costume worn by dolls, dress is principally dominant costume in collection doll, whereas in fashion doll, dress is still mainly worn but shirt blouse & pants, shirt blouse k skirt, jacket, coat, bathing suit. etc. are shown dispersedly as well. In the costume silhouette of dolls, collection doll uses mostly A line silhouette meanwhile fit and flare is mostly used in the fashion doll but other silhouettes are also relatively shown a lot. In the means of the color of the costume worn by dolls, collection doll is more similar to those in actual fashion design. On the contrary, the color of the costume that fashion doll is put on is more free and more various because the trendy rotors such as green, yellow, purple, etc are used.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.1-19
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• 1997

This thesis is a reflection of Korean aestheticism and how it has evolved and influenced Korean contemporary fashion throughout the last century. Up to the current, there have been five notable trends of fashion that have been influenced from and have reflected the qualities emblematic of various periods in Korean history. They can be characterized as the era of Missionary fashion, Uniform fashion, Salon fashion, Brand Name Fashion, and finally, fashion from the current era of diversification. The specific characteristics of each fashion era have been analized and illustrated in a comprehensive table. Design characteristics of Korean contemporary fashion are as follows : 1. A point of emphasis is given to facial feature, unconstructive design and ample silhouette and A silhouette, two-piece and pants. Korean style wrap skirt, a smooth curve and layered style. 2. Effect of flatness from material; as methods of quilting, reinforced dual stitching(Kaeki), patchwork, embroidery and goldfoil thread extra, it is turned up that texture of cloth stuff and effects of flatness. 3. Simple color combinations give effects in two different directions For instance, white and a variety of vivid colors, a dull color and bright colors, black, blue. 4. Over-design, diffusion of fashion. Based on the design characteristics described above, the essence of Korea's beauty consciousness can be captured and summarized through the following points: 1. Emotionalism and non-characterism: traditional and simple natural beauty and modernized natural beauty. 2. From authoritism to non-authoritism: traditional and formal personal beauty and casual characteristic beauty. 3. Polaris (antithesis) phenomenon: chastic beauty and ostentatious beauty, simplicity and lavishness, conformity of fashion and originality. Although the beauty consciousness of Korean contemporary fashion is changing from traditional passive metaphor to aesthetic expressionism for the new generation, after all the basic foundation or root of the spiritual beauty of idealism is usually recognized by focusing on the face.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.49-65
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• 2009

As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.235-243
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• 2003

This study is to figure out where the current satisfaction with ready-to-wear clothes based on middle-aged women's body shapes is at and to propose basic considerations in its production for coming up with a better sizing system to maximize customer's satisfaction. The data obtained from measurement and questionnaire by 126 middle- aged (35-59) women which were located in Gwangju. Followings are summary of this research, 1)The satisfaction level with lower -wear is relatively lower-wear than that of upper-wear in most parts of body. 2) The results by way of putting score show three different groups. Group 1 has characteristics of front body silhouette in the small ratio of shoulder width/bust width, shoulder width/waist width and big ratio of shoulder width/hip width. And Group 3 has characteristics of front silhouette, small ratio of hip girth/thigh girth. Group 2 has a standard shape. 3) The satisfaction level with lower-wear based on middle-aged women's body shapes shows slight difference. In this category, Group 2 has higher satisfaction level than that of Group 1, while Group 1 has better shape than Group 3. 4) The items of clothes which should be considered current less satisfaction on their size and pattern are skirt and pants. In the meantime, specific body parts for the same criteria are hip girth, thigh girth. And the 43.7% of middle-aged women who responded to this study requires improvement on the fit of lower-wear.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1050-1063
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• 2008

A movie is a fiction made on a basis of an author's and a writer's imagination, but all sorts of properties mixed with each other and most realistically expresses the era which becomes the background of a movie and acts as a carrier that connects designers with consumers. Thus, this study was carried out to review how the fashion products that designer's intention and commercial value added are expressed in collections by comparing and analysing the costumes in the movie "The Great Gatsby" that described the life of America's upper-class in 1920s and the 04 S/S Y&Kei collection which were proceeding after getting inspiration from this movie. For this, literature materials were inspected in order to make a theoretical review on social and cultural background and costumes history background in 1920s and the photo materials on movie costume were collected and analysed using DVD video captures, as well as the photo materials on 04 S/S Y&Kei were collected and analyzed through the institute providing domestic fashion information. The following conclusion was deduced through this study. First, in 1920s which becomes the background of this study, the slim shape of Flapper which looks like a young and boy became an ideal figure condition and the straight silhouette with low waist line and the short skirt that rose to knee was popular. Second, as a result of analysing movie costume by classifying it in silhouette, colors, and materials, straight silhouette of low waistline with a near colored - tone seen in the pastel series, including white, beige, pink, and gray was mainly constituted and the metal colors like silver and gold were used. As a material, chiffon, satin, velvet, flower patterned prints, and beads were used, which represented luxurious life of women in the upper classes. Third, as a result of comparing and analysing, it turned out that there was a similarity. However, in dress collection for a heroine, some dissimilarity differentiated from a movie costumes was found out in that the dresses in collection expressed moderate beauty and modernism and elegant beauty at the same time by matching a variety of materials and using black color.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.992-1000
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• 2006

The main purpose of this research is to develop the methodology of objective evaluation of clothing appearance by eye movement analysis. The visual clothing items used in this study were skirt, one-piece, pants and shirt with the style variation of silhouette and details. By observing eye movement during visual evaluation of clothing, we can achieve the basic fixation data of eye movement. Moreover, we developed the Matlab program to extract the fixation coordinate and number of eye fixation on each part of the clothing item. As results, there were differences in the duration of fixation time for each item and the fixation time was not different by styles within a clothing item. However, we could find differences in the fixation time within a style, in other words, we could select the important parts of the clothing by observing the fixation time in a certain clothing item. It is also noted that time required in visual information processing differs depending on the item, and there was a region which contain more information independent with styles in the same item. By developing the objective method of visual evaluation that correspond to human's visual information processing, the results are expected to be applied in the retrieval program in internet shopping mall or in the development of contents for advertisement of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.155-171
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• 2007

Exaggerated expressions of contemporary fashion have exceeded historical precedents in volume. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetic characteristics of expanded form In contemporary fashion. To take dresses beyond their flat shapes into three-dimensional forms, it was investigated into volume of dresses by using the void and the mass. The void Is rarefied space and the mass is densified space. The void of dresses could be constructed from the boning such as panier and stiff textiles as organza lining. The mass could be constructed from padding. Fold, pleats, twist, and the layering of fabrics show features of both the void and the mass. Contemporary fashion designers relied on the void rather that the mass to make the enormous volume because of the weight of the mass. X-silhouette and the expansion of skirt and sleeve were dominant as the result of accentuating the body with a waistline. However, many of expanded dresses were so voluminous that they obscured the body's outlines. Some forms were strange and shocking. Many designers explored the void and there were a multitude of methods to construct the void: compartments of air, architectural techniques, technical textiles, fold such at origami. The aesthetic consciousness of expanded dresses could be classified into 7 categories, the giant, the dynamic, the deconstructive, the historical, the comedic, the rhythmical, and the technical character.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.75-84
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• 1984

The main purpose of the study were to investigate a selection motive of clothing and the feeling of wearing of Korean high school students. The results were as follows ; 1. For underwear, the body appearance and the hygienical aspect were shown as important factors in a selection motive of clothing. And the property of matter and hygienical aspect were shown as important factors in the feeling of wearing. 2. For outwear, a functionality and the psychological aspect were shown as important factors in a selective motive of clothing. And a exeroise and the psychological aspect were shown as important factors in the feeling of wearing. 3. For skirt, the psychological aspect was shown as an important factor in a selection motive of clothing and the feeling of wearing. For pants, a functionality was shown as an important factor in a selection motive of clothing. 4. A exercise was shown as an important factor in the feeling of wearing with the silhouette of outwear. 5. The hygienical aspect was shown as an important factor in the demand of selection motive of clothing for comfort.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.42-57
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• 2007

The purpose of study is to investigate costumes of the heroin in the opera which has performed by 4 different directors ; Metropolitan opera by Franco Zeffirelli, San francisco opera by David Hockney, Salzburg Festival by David Pountney and Korea Arena opera by Zhang Yi-mou. In these performances, Her costumes normally expressed the change of her characteristic from a haughty and cruel lady to a lady who realized a true love. The former is wearing exaggerative and splendid styles while the latter is wearing simple and ladylike styles. Costume styles of each performance are like this. In the Metropolitan's opera, costumes are very splendid using brilliant fabrics and accessories of Chinese peking opera. Their costume styles are influenced by Chinese 'Pao' which is similar to Ming Style. In the San Francisco's opera, costumes are very simple, specially pattern of dragons. This silhouette mixed Chinese style and western dress. In the Salzburg Festival's opera, costumes are based on simple western style but they expressed her mind effectively like a extremely long skirt which means her haughtiness. In the Seoul arena opera, costumes are based on Ming styles using silk which embroidered dragons, phoenixes and flowers.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.177-188
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• 2014

This research is aimed at analyzing the evaluation for the design and satisfaction/unsatisfaction of the autumn and winter school uniform targeting junior students and sophomore students at academical and vocational high schools located in Ulsan, Korea. For this research, SPSS 12.0 was used to measure the frequency and the t-test analysis of 396 data. The results of this study are as follows. The most important factor of autumn-winter school uniforms was heat-retainment. It was showed significant differences between sphere and grade. They also answered body shape' faults and figure emphasis as the most distressed factors. In the design of the school uniform, It was not show significant differences between sphere and grade. They considered the silhouette when they worn the school uniform as the most important factor. The primary factors in purchasing a uniform appeared to be price. Repair experiences after purchasing a school uniform found to count more among students. Examination about transformed parts of uniforms for the students with experiences in uniform modification showed that many students in the academic sphere modified length and width of upper wears, and length of skirt, while many students in the vocational sphere modified waist and hip. Junior grade than sophomore grade appeared to have modified in all parts.