• 복식
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• 제58권10호
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• pp.65-77
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the correlation between the density, the Count and the width of cross section in 2D function through comparison the difference of simulated fabrics based on the various yarns, and to compare the 3D effect by Lay Mapping of diverse fabrics. The method of research is to weave the eight fabrics composed of cotton, linen, worsted, slender yarn, loop, $m{\acute{e}}lange$, woolen, and yarn twist with Hi-Tex program, and to practice 3D mapping with Hi-Print program. As a mapping object, the flared skirt which is a basic costume item is selected. As a result, the thickness of yarn in CAD system was fixed by the width of cross section rather than Count, especially by the width of core section not including the fluff section. The type of yarn such as cotton yarn, linen yarn, and worsted had effect on the shape of texture, but had few interrelations with dimension. In the case of 3D mapping, the textural characteristic and the dimension were presented precisely, whereas there were several limitations. First, the thickness of tissue has not been represented. Secondly, the effect of texture such as fuzzy look, loop was not expressed on the skirt outline including sideline and hemline. Thirdly, the difference of silhouette was not distinct. The common point in 2D and 3D operations is that the representation of texture is relatively accurate and that is difficult to measure and manifest of thickness, the side. For more professional digitalizing in fashion industry, above all in the domain of 3D, it must be supplement the subdivided and differentiated mapping process according to the texture, deviating from the existing analog-based organization which has to designate the form and silhouette suitable for tissue.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.126-140
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion design applying to the hoop, which have become various since 1980. To do this, this study is investigated the origin and the changes of the hoop historically, then classified its types, and finally analyze the collections from 1980 to 2003. The hoop was appeared on the late 15th century. Then in the mid 16th century, bell-shaped farthingale was prevailed, followed by drum-shaped wheel farthingale and hausse-cul in England and France. In the 17th century, slim silhouette was popular, so that the hoop declined gradually. In the 18th century, panier and panier double were introduced which is to make side-expanded skirt silhouette. In the 19th century, crinoline and bustle were created. The hoops applied to modern collections are used various materials, techniques, and forms. It is a main item of historicism which appeared in the trend of post-modernism and the phenomenon of applying underwear to an outer garment like corset. The hoop is adapted into three ways: only with the frame of hoop, wearing a skirt with some parts of the frame exposed on purpose, and wearing a skirt on the frame, thus not showing the frame. Thus, it is thought that wearing a hoop as a frame is used an element of recreation of past fashion, at the same time it was affected by historicism which is a branch of post-modernism. Applying the hoop as an outer garment may be affected by eroticism which changed underwear into an outer wear in postmodernism and deconstructivism.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.95-109
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• 2010

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze the formative characteristic and the aesthetic values of Romantic style. To attain the goal of this study, the selected objects are the Romantic styles that were prevalent from the 1830s to the 1880s. The methodology for this study consists of literary research, aesthetics, dress and case study based upon the analysis of the 19th century dress. Based upon the theoretical study, two results are derived from the analysis of Romantic style in $19^{th}$ century dress. First, the formative characteristics of Romantic style dress are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. The suppression of body is embodied by two ways. One is tightening body parts, such as the off-the-shoulder line and the corset, and the other is applying weights on body through the wearing of layers of petticoat, crinoline and bustle. The characteristic of the fixed form created the fixed silhouettes of women's dress, for example, an X-silhouette formed with wide shoulders created by big puffed sleeves, narrow waist by corset, and wide hemline of voluminous skirt and petticoats. In addition to the X-silhouette, the bustle style created fixed h-silhouette. Volume in the women's dress were visually expressed by big puffed sleeves, a huge skirt and petticoat made with gathers, pleats and flounces, crinolines and a bustle. Ornamentation was used to express an elegant and fantastic style not only by using luxurious materials in various colors and patterns, but also by applying sumptuous details and trimmings. Second, the aesthetic values of Romantic style dress are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. Women's dress of the 19th century not only restricted free movement and symbolized men's wealth and status, but also was used as an important tool for seducing men by exposing and accentuating the sexual body, thus becoming a symbol of fertility as a metaphor of pregnancy and uterus. These aesthetic values represented in dress incorporated the contemporary requirements of women of the time.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권11호
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• pp.1399-1409
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to analyze the shape of gathered skirts using a three-dimensional measurement system. And in this experiment, I try to accumulate three-dimensional data of wearing model and to figure out analyzing method made by shape of clothes. The experimental design consists of two factorial designs. I set up three different kinds of fabrics, ratio of gathers. Therefore nine samples were made. The instrument and tools for three-dimensional measurement was whole body 3D scanner. Analysis program used in experiment is RapidForm 2004 PP1 and Pattern Design 2000. Data analysis utilizes SPSS WIN 10.0 Package. T-test to effect an inspection of evidence, there was difference about measurement times. One-way ANOVA to analysis effect of gather made by gathering conditions. The following results were obtained; 1. As a result of inspecting an error several times using a three-dimension measurement system, convinced data was obtained. 2. At front, distribution of gap amount was larger than back. And as ratio of gathers increased, distribution of gap amount showed regularly. 3. After analyzing horizontal sectional figure of skirts, as a height of skirt changed from waist to the bottom of skirts, the results showed as follows. While section width, section thickness, node width, node depth increased, node count decreased. 4. With the horizontal section levels of gather skirt, the silhouette on middle hip section was similar with the silhouette of body line. And as ratio of gathers around hip section increased, nodes showed regularly. At the bottom of skirts showed different nodes by different gathering condition.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.228-247
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• 2023

In this study, an empirical analysis was conducted on the use of Korean design elements in the Hanbokwave project in 2022 in order to identify the expressed fashion characteristics and define Korean style. A case study was conducted on 98 items of clothing representing 10 Hanbok designer brands, and an analysis card was developed and used that classifies the silhouette of each item in detail. The analysis showed that in addition to the traditional skirt and Jeogori, the four stages of simulakr's image were prevalent in various fashion items such as shirts, blouses, jackets, crop tops, vests, dresses, and pants. In the composition of sleeves, many western clothing methods such as set-in-sleeve use and adjustment, hardcover buttons, and zippers were used to fuse the three-dimensional structure of western clothing and elements of traditional Hanbok to redefine it as postmodernism. It was recognized as a modern fashion, such as the trend of mixing and matching tops and bottoms, not a skirt and Jeogori set, by layering traditional clothes without hesitation or using them as a dress. As for the silhouette of the bottoms, the A-line showed a high frequency, and the prominent shape was identified as a traditional element widely used in modern Hanboks along with the element of wrinkles. This study is thought to be used as practical data for design development for the globalization of K-fashion in the future.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.38-56
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• 2014

This study compared the flared skirts on 3D simulation and in real to show diverse forms in women's clothing depending on the body's gait and motion. By finding the problems, we suggested the possible methods for utilizing the 3D simulation in the clothing industry. First, the 3D simulation of flared skirts showed similar forms of appearance according to the flare length and volume. However, virtually formed drape shape was even in size and spacing, whereas it was not even in real. Second, according to the results of appearance test on the length and flare volume at $90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$, both real and 3D simulation skirts were evaluated to have outstanding appearances regardless of the skirt length. However, as the flares volume increased, the skirts with longer length were evaluated to have superior appearances compared to the skirts of shorter length. Third, it showed higher resemblance between the real and virtual simulation, when the skirt had less flare and as the skirt length shortened. However, it showed greater difference between the real and virtual simulation when flare volume and length increased. The length and volume of the skirt and the physical properties of the material are predicted to be different between the real and virtual simulation. However, they usually are similar in forms, so it is believed possible to use for predicting the design's silhouette or the feel when it is worn. This method can be applied on internet shopping malls, which can possibly reduce unnecessary time and expenses.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권7호
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• pp.1111-1125
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• 2010

Study is a basic analysis of a future virtual clothing system based on a comparative analysis of all the shirring, using a 3-dimensional apparel cad system. Frilled skirts shirred at the lower hemline were the subject of this study for a comparison of expression and shape of shirring. It compared the silhouette and details expressed in virtual and real skirts made of woolen fabrics and polyester satin, with different widths (1.5, 2 and 2.5 widths). It was found that the virtual skirt could not express shirring as exquisitely as the real skirt due to fabric thickness and other fabric characteristics. In addition, the increase in widths caused the frill shape to deform badly. In the case of a virtual skirt made of polyester satin, the increased multiplication factor let the frill spread out sharply (unlike the real skirt). Simulated skirts of polyester satin and woolen spread out to the sides with the sidelines of their frills hanging down markedly (unlike the real cloths) when the frills changed from 1.5 widths to 2 widths. When it came to the virtual skirt, side-line from the hip down all the way short of frill contorted with the wrinkle multiplication factor of 2 and 2.5 widths. This phenomenon was more notable in polyester satin skirts than in woolen skirts.

• 복식
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• 제48권
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• pp.25-36
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• 1999

The purpose of the present research was to analyse for a sample of female collge students by Korean and American the preferred style of clothing with body cathexis. The respondents were 242 Korean and 145 American female volunteers aged 18 to 27 who were enrolled at Kwangju and Cathlic University of korean and Cornell University in the Unites States. The questionnaire was composed of three sections: body size body cathexis and the preferred style of clothing. Sixteen items of twenty-six items of the preferred style of clothing showed a significant difference between Korean and American. Korean students didn't like a bulky fabric and a bright color than American do. American students like a effect of accessories and clothing to emphasize my bust line and care about sleeve shape skirt length skirt shape than Korean do. Korean students were more dissatisfied with their body than American female students. There was a negative relationship between body cathexis and preference of tight skirt both Korean and American female students. There was a positive relationship among body cathexis and preference of outfit and preference of garment of polished silhouette by Korean female students a positive relationship among preference of fitted waist and design to emphasize bust line.

• 복식
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• 제50권6호
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• pp.89-107
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• 2000

Underwear has undertaken the auxiliary role of outwear also. Thus, as outwear has changed forming the characteristic mode in every period, underwear has changed endlessly, so that it may match the form and function of outwear, in accordance with the stream of period. In this study, this researcher examined hoop and petticoat which were used for widening the skirt which is female clothes with diverse names in every period. under one name which is farthingale, centering around the West and korea, from 16th century to 20th century(the first term). In addition, it examined by comparison the relevancy between to the history and change factor of underwear which was used for swelling the skirt in Korean clothes. The result to have studied on the history and change factor about the farthingale of West and Korea is as follows: This study found that the silhouette of women's clothing has a strong relationship with underwear. Also The result to compare the underskirt of the West with that of Korea is as follows : They has other character, but in 18th century, being compared the underskirt of the West with that of Korea, for the swelling of skirt, this study found that they had something in common with the underskirt of the West and Korea.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.459-469
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between body-types and skirt-patterns by analyzing various fitting conditions of the skirt patterns in relation to the body-types. To achieve this, fitting tests were done on six types of skirt-patterns. The tests included four body-types selected according to the existing classification of the types of under part of the body. Sensory tests were performed on the existing patterns and new drafting method based on the results of the fitting tests. The results of the fitting tests and sensory test are as follows. 1. The existing skirt-patterns were relatively well-fitted except for certain parts in standard somatotype (body-type A). 2. The new drafting method, designed on the basis of the fitting test on the existing patterns, scored high on all of the eighteen items included in the test This signifies the excellence of the new drafting method. 3. In the case of the allocation between the front and the back, which is the difference between the educational patterns and industrial patterns, the best silhouette was achieved when the hip-line and the waist-line were same sized both in the back and in the front. However, in the case of body-type D it was better when there was a 1cm difference between the back and the front. 4. The number of darts that best fits young persons were found to be eight, to keep their side hip-curve smooth. Further, it is desirable to set the center line of the dart as the vertical waist-line. 5. The best length of the darts were determined to be 12.5cm, 11ch in the back, and 11cm, 9.5cm in the front. Adjustments would be made according to the differing body-types in the range of 0.5cm. 6. The lowerness of the back waist-line for the normal was determined at 1.5cm, with some variations in other body-types. 7. The front waist-line was needed to be 1cm lowered in the case of body-type B, whereas, in the case of body-type D, it was needed to be 1cm raised.